[vapore0n]

Just take it to a good detailer. It might cost less than 1000$ to get it all done.
Car looks like it needs it.

[sammy_0559]

Dude i have done body work in my life.
Basecoat clear coat is wayy easier to deal with than single stage enamel.
what i would do is i would go to wal-mart. i compound,polish and wax my car all the time.
i don't usually power wash my car.
but in this case i would power wash it at one of those self washes get what you can off.
then go to wal-mart.
get.
meguiars brand that what i recommend!
1. Compound
2. Polish
3. Liquid wax.
4. Application pads and terry Cloths
you might end up paying close to $60-$70
if you have any parts of your car that might feel rough when Clean(other than the nail polish {duh})
i would get a Clay Bar. pretty easy to use.

i would compound all the Nail polish if you got enough arm power go ahead and do the entire car. i wouldn't recommend using a machine if you don't know how you would get swril marks

just apply them in this order where needed compound all the nail polish off.
then polish where you compounded then wax where polished unless you want to do the entire car.

of course as for use compound fist to see if it works. but it should.
if it dosnt use nail polish remover..... but then compound polish and wax to get the clear coat back to life.. Nail polish remover is THAT bad for your clear coat clear coat is applied thick and can always be worked with!

[BK]

I'm going to go ahead and move this to the detailing forum, but I'll also add my two cents and say there are two things most detailers would try for this - first, mineral spirits, which is used all the time for overspray. If that doesn't work, nail polish remover (used sparingly). The key in either case is you don't need too much. Put it on lightly, let it sit a bit, and they wipe gently with a soft cloth.

I also agree you should use the money you got to pay a good detailer to handle this, and then fully wash, clay, polish, and seal your car while he's at it. You have more than enough from insurance to do all of that, and judging by your wheels, you need a good detail anyway.

[MuttGrunt]

Some real good spot on advice in this thread, and some shady advice as well. As always, you need to be careful who you listen to. Anyone can claim "professional" or "I know what I'm talking about" but very few have the resume or pics to back up their talk.

First let's talk about the nail polish itself. Nail polishes are almost ALWAYS lacquer based paint. This means they never "cure" but instead "dry" which works in your favor. The strong solvent smell you get from nail polish is because the pigment and material that is left behind when drying is complete is originally suspended in solvents. You apply the solvent-based mixture to your nail, wait for the solvents to evaporate away, and you're left with a thin coat on your nails. If you introduce solvents back to the dried material, it'll re-flow and become runny once again. Nail polish remover and acetone are solvents that are strong enough to get the dried material to flow again, so that it can be removed. This is the nature of "Lacquer Thinner" in how it works.

Now that it is clear as to what this stuff is, let's talk a second about your clear-coat. This is a chemically cured and hardened material. The chemical composition is different than what it was when it was sprayed. Clear-coat can not be "thinned" and lacquer thinner will have no affect on it because 1. it's not lacquer 2. it's chemically cured to resist such things.
Even if your paint was single stage enamel, lacquer thinner would have no affect on it as single stage enamel paint has "hardener" added in just as clear-coat does. You'd only have to worry if you had a paint job from the 40's or 50's, or a $500 paint job from Joe's Paint Shop; in both cases in which lacquer paint is used.

Grab a bottle of nail polish remover, some cotton swabs / Q-tips, and carefully apply and remove. This might take two or more applications to get the right result. I wouldn't recommend using such a product on rubber / plastic, but it is safe for your paint. When finished, thoroughly wash the vehicle to make sure all solvent have been flushed from the surface, and apply a thin coat of wax/sealant to help protect her from the Winter.


Last, as others have mentioned, get those poor wheels some love. Holy cow.

[Envious Eric]

Originally Posted by MuttGrunt

Some real good spot on advice in this thread, and some shady advice as well. As always, you need to be careful who you listen to. Anyone can claim "professional" or "I know what I'm talking about" but very few have the resume or pics to back up their talk.

First let's talk about the nail polish itself. Nail polishes are almost ALWAYS lacquer based paint. This means they never "cure" but instead "dry" which works in your favor. The strong solvent smell you get from nail polish is because the pigment and material that is left behind when drying is complete is originally suspended in solvents. You apply the solvent-based mixture to your nail, wait for the solvents to evaporate away, and you're left with a thin coat on your nails. If you introduce solvents back to the dried material, it'll re-flow and become runny once again. Nail polish remover and acetone are solvents that are strong enough to get the dried material to flow again, so that it can be removed. This is the nature of "Lacquer Thinner" in how it works.

Now that it is clear as to what this stuff is, let's talk a second about your clear-coat. This is a chemically cured and hardened material. The chemical composition is different than what it was when it was sprayed. Clear-coat can not be "thinned" and lacquer thinner will have no affect on it because 1. it's not lacquer 2. it's chemically cured to resist such things.
Even if your paint was single stage enamel, lacquer thinner would have no affect on it as single stage enamel paint has "hardener" added in just as clear-coat does. You'd only have to worry if you had a paint job from the 40's or 50's, or a $500 paint job from Joe's Paint Shop; in both cases in which lacquer paint is used.

Grab a bottle of nail polish remover, some cotton swabs / Q-tips, and carefully apply and remove. This might take two or more applications to get the right result. I wouldn't recommend using such a product on rubber / plastic, but it is safe for your paint. When finished, thoroughly wash the vehicle to make sure all solvent have been flushed from the surface, and apply a thin coat of wax/sealant to help protect her from the Winter.


Last, as others have mentioned, get those poor wheels some love. Holy cow.

DING DING DING!!! well put Marc!

[33five]

Originally Posted by vzehler

Some 80 grit sand paper will take it right off if picking it off doesn't work.

All joking aside, the nail polish remover will work just fine but don't let it sit on there too long. If you aren't comfortable with the small risk, you could always try goof off with the information I found on their website. Goof off will not hurt your paint.

http://www.goofoffstainremover.com/w...-stains-spills

That's exactly it. Goof off and goo gone works the best. Just takes some elbow grease on the big blotchy spots. Also, using a microfiber totally doesn't work as it just soaks in all the solvent you put on it, so terry or paper towel works the best.

Thanks everyone, Happy Holidays!

[vomheimlin]

kids

[ChuckBMW3]

Keep us updated OP (with pics). I'd like to see how your car turned out...

[TOGWT]

[DING DING DING!!! well put Marc!]

+1