[jaykayelemenohpee]

Originally Posted by AWD Addict

I just had my first boost leak code too. Odd.

Yeah I'm really unsure of what it is. I pulled off the undertray and checked the IC hoses because that seems to be the first to fail. I only got the code once but I am not meeting target boost so I'm sure something somewhere is leaking. Maybe DVs or boost solenoids or maybe I knocked a vacuum hose off somewhere when installing my DCI. Who knows. I'm dropping it off at the shop in the AM to have them take a leak because I'm in the process of moving and all my tools are at my new place.

[Morpeh]

I need a help guys! I have 2009 335i, DCI, Cobb stage 1 sport. Every 2-3 days I'm getting an error codes P1447 and P2B3D. Both codes come at the same time. Car is still under warranty.
My questions are:

1. Error codes meaning? I did a search for P2B3D and got "0" results.
2. Should I leave error codes, uninstall cobb and go to the dealership?

Thank you for any help.

[sickem]

Originally Posted by Morpeh

I need a help guys! I have 2009 335i, DCI, Cobb stage 1 sport. Every 2-3 days I'm getting an error codes P1447 and P2B3D. Both codes come at the same time. Car is still under warranty.
My questions are:

1. Error codes meaning? I did a search for P2B3D and got "0" results.
2. Should I leave error codes, uninstall cobb and go to the dealership?

Thank you for any help.

just did a google search, found this for the first one:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551543

[Morpeh]

Originally Posted by sickem

just did a google search, found this for the first one:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551543

I saw that thread before but my problem is combination of both codes.

[sickem]

Originally Posted by Morpeh

I saw that thread before but my problem is combination of both codes.

Ok but a code is a code. It still means the same thing! I thought @themyst had this dtml issue at one point...

[Morpeh]

Originally Posted by sickem

Ok but a code is a code. It still means the same thing! I thought @themyst had this dtml issue at one point...

True but don't you think that one code might trigger another code to appear or fixing one problem might fix another?

[sickem]

Originally Posted by Morpeh

True but don't you think that one code might trigger another code to appear or fixing one problem might fix another?

Yes it's likely they're related, but without knowing what the other code means its hard to say

[themyst]

DMTL pump costs $100, I believe it should be covered under the emissions warranty.

[nikitino25]

Sorry for the dumb question but how do you read and reset codes? Does the AP start checking for codes as soon as you plug it in and then list all the codes? After you fix whatever the code was for, how do you reset the code so it goes away? I didn't really see anything on the cobb site but maybe was looking in the wrong place.....

[MidwestGolfBum]

Originally Posted by nikitino25

Sorry for the dumb question but how do you read and reset codes? Does the AP start checking for codes as soon as you plug it in and then list all the codes? After you fix whatever the code was for, how do you reset the code so it goes away? I didn't really see anything on the cobb site but maybe was looking in the wrong place.....

Plug in Cobb -> troubleshooting -> read codes/reset codes

[steedsta]

Ok so i have a 08 335i, Turbo back exhaust. I been running stage 2 sport with new spark plugs and its running great.. I just put in 98 octane and ran it for about 50 miles.
whats the difference between.
Stage 1 Agressive VS stage 2 sport
and
Stage 1 Agressive VS Stage 2 Agressive, im hesitant to run stage 2 agressive even tho Cobb clearly says all Stage 2 agressive needs is 93 octain and a downpipe

[Morpeh]

Originally Posted by Morpeh

I need a help guys! I have 2009 335i, DCI, Cobb stage 1 sport. Every 2-3 days I'm getting an error codes P1447 and P2B3D. Both codes come at the same time. Car is still under warranty.
My questions are:

1. Error codes meaning? I did a search for P2B3D and got "0" results.
2. Should I leave error codes, uninstall cobb and go to the dealership?

Thank you for any help.

Could someone please answer my second question?

Thank you

[timtech]

Originally Posted by Morpeh

Could someone please answer my second question?

Thank you

If you uninstall, it will clear all your codes. If you still get the codes with the tune removed, I would then take it to the dealer.

[135Pats]

Cobb autoclears existing codes when you un-marry it. So you could be in a pickle if the codes are only popping up due to tune induced stress.

[Morpeh]

That's all what I needed to know, thank you timtech and 135Pats!

[USCTROJANSFIGHTON]

From my reading, the stock boost for N54 335i is approximately 8.5psi.
What is the boost level for Stage 1 Drive Map?
This is the most conservative map, yet I got the following code today with a half-lit engine:

P2AAF
P30FF

Highpressure fuel pump possibility
Low Boost.

66K miles.
I have been using Cobb for less than 5 days...and already a code on the most conservative map??!?!?! What gives.

I cleared the code...hopefully it doesnt come back on...
It was in the 3k-4k RPM range...

So now I am driving under the 2500k range.....

Anyone else experience this on the Stage 1 Drive map?!?
I can understand if it was on Aggressive......but Drive!

[JStang]

Originally Posted by usctrojansdent

From my reading, the stock boost for N54 335i is approximately 8.5psi.
What is the boost level for Stage 1 Drive Map?
This is the most conservative map, yet I got the following code today with a half-lit engine:

P2AAF
P30FF

Highpressure fuel pump possibility
Low Boost.

66K miles.
I have been using Cobb for less than 5 days...and already a code on the most conservative map??!?!?! What gives.

I cleared the code...hopefully it doesnt come back on...
It was in the 3k-4k RPM range...

So now I am driving under the 2500k range.....

Anyone else experience this on the Stage 1 Drive map?!?
I can understand if it was on Aggressive......but Drive!

30FF is a code for a boost leak / underboost. Do you have logs?

[JStang]

I noticed this morning that I had a fuel pump plausibility code (2AAF) and cleared it. I get this code from time to time when doing a few WOT pulls so it is no big deal as I am running an E45 map on the stock LPFP.

When I cleared the codes this morning, the ABS light showed up in idrive and in the gauge cluster during the code removal process. Once the codes were cleared, the lights were gone and the code never showed up in my AP.

I tried clearing a couple more times and each time the ABS light would show up. Has anyone else experienced this?

[ocarioca1m]

If the maps are changed... Could an accessport for an N54 work for an N55 engine?

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by JStang

I noticed this morning that I had a fuel pump plausibility code (2AAF) and cleared it. I get this code from time to time when doing a few WOT pulls so it is no big deal as I am running an E45 map on the stock LPFP.

When I cleared the codes this morning, the ABS light showed up in idrive and in the gauge cluster during the code removal process. Once the codes were cleared, the lights were gone and the code never showed up in my AP.

I tried clearing a couple more times and each time the ABS light would show up. Has anyone else experienced this?

I saw that yesterday too when changing maps. I think it happened once before. Both times only since the Alpina B3 TCU flash. It clears if you clear codes, turn off the engine and restart.

[2008E90TT]

What am I looking for as far as timing drops go? Is it the actual value (as in below a given degree is always bad during WOT) or is it dips in the timing under WOT?

When looking at dips, what is considered a bad drop? More than a few degrees?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by 2008E90TT

What am I looking for as far as timing drops go? Is it the actual value (as in below a given degree is always bad during WOT) or is it dips in the timing under WOT?

When looking at dips, what is considered a bad drop? More than a few degrees?

What you dont want to see is a sudden and severe pull in timing. So if youre starting at say 5 degrees, you should see a steady climb upwards. Minor timing pulls happen, but if you see a serious timing retard, the DME isnt liking what its seeing.