[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

So far consistent Firing with NO hesitation at all.
Code: 2BDE is gone

I am still looking into shadow codes
Threw a 2BF0 before clearing codes after install ( Cleared did a couple pulls no code appearing as of yet )

i still believe there could be a potential HPFP replacement in the future, but this regulator definitely solves the misfiring and hesitation on standing starts and cold starts. Im the type of guy that cant stand seeing any codes so if any arise now i will be sure to take them on and try my best to solve them.

Great to hear! Gives me motivation to so mine this weekend!

What does 2BF0 say on mhd? I don’t see it on this fault code list I have bookmarked. Any residual pressure drop while far has been at rest >30 min?

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Great to hear! Gives me motivation to so mine this weekend!

What does 2BF0 say on mhd? I don’t see it on this fault code list I have bookmarked. Any residual pressure drop while far has been at rest >30 min?

The 2BF0 is a "Inactive Shadow" Code. But it relates to fueling/HPFP rather. Ive let the car idle for >20mins and rail pressure has held steady. I strongly believe the N(55)'s 2011+ Models has a poor quality HPFP. And once us guys start upgrading and increasing the fueling it starts to show more and more.

I recently went into BMW yesterday for the Blower Motor Wiring Recall While i waited i went over and got quoted on a HPFP from the Stealership and they told me $900. One of the representatives said that they did "Online Honor Comparison" Which i then showed them the FCPeuro part for $550. The manager came out and said "We will not honor refurbished parts, It is an original part number but i have heard of this site and their bad fuel pumps back in 2008-2010, If you want to keep replacing it once it breaks, you can..." Now that didn't move me or push me to dump another $400, But i will continue to monitor this issue

[HeyTeeee]

I completely forgot I had that code LOL translated by google since mine was in German
“Fuel pressure during or after release of the injection tab; Environmental condition rate after time delay; pressure too low”

[HeyTeeee]

I hope snapcoupe’s issue is the regulator...but at the same time for the sake of diagnosing those shadow codes and long crank if it’s the lpfp and replacing solves the issues between the 3 of us we’d have a damn near complete long crank/shadow code/hpfp/lpfp diagnostic thread x)

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I hope snapcoupe’s issue is the regulator...but at the same time for the sake of diagnosing those shadow codes and long crank if it’s the lpfp and replacing solves the issues between the 3 of us we’d have a damn near complete long crank/shadow code/hpfp/lpfp diagnostic thread x)

I hope so aswell, I know that this shadow code isn't referring to my LPFP because its an upgraded pump. So i will have to keep checking on this but we will solve the issue some day...BMW will make your hair fall out lol

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I hope snapcoupe’s issue is the regulator...but at the same time for the sake of diagnosing those shadow codes and long crank if it’s the lpfp and replacing solves the issues between the 3 of us we’d have a damn near complete long crank/shadow code/hpfp/lpfp diagnostic thread x)

Me too man, me too. If the regulator doesn't fix mine then all that leaves for me is the rail sensor and the LPFP. I have replaced all 6 injectors (came with new motor), HPFP, and now I am replacing the regulator. This car has been a damn piece of work.

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

I hope so aswell, I know that this shadow code isn't referring to my LPFP because its an upgraded pump. So i will have to keep checking on this but we will solve the issue some day...BMW will make your hair fall out lol

When I get the chance to do my regulator I plan on writing up a full DIY thread with HQ pics included. This is a huge diagnosis pain in the ass for those of us with 2011 N55 cars, which happen to not have a low pressure fuel sensor. Hopefully a detailed thread would be a nice way to give back to the E9X community.

[DiFFv1]

Yeah that'll be great! I shouldve but i only had time to complete the task that day. I hope your problem is solved.

[HeyTeeee]

Alrighty boys finished the fp regulator. I thought I broke the car bc she was not happy for the first 5 minutes of running fp was super bouncy ~500 to around 850 kinda like back in the day on my civic when the iacv was dirty as all hell. Turned the car off cleared the bajillion codes and the fp was at 54!So in frustration I went to bed at the beautiful hour of 2am. Woke up this AM let her idle for about 5 minutes went for a drive. Idle was falling dangerously low but didnt stall and still have some hesitation. The car has sat for roughly an hour 1/2 so far fp is remaining at 74.3 which is better than last week where it fell to 18 after an hour. So while the hesitation is still persistent I at least replaced a dying part which is good!

[HeyTeeee]

Depending on how I feel tomorrow I might tackle the valve cover replacement. I’d still consider this weekend a success despite the hesitation. Luckily, valve cover, injectors and those vanos solenoids are on my maintenance plan before doing the mhd stage 1 tune so I’m not bummed about the regulator NOT making my car feel brand new. My plans are pretty boring compared others but if you guys are interested in hearing about my journey I’ll keep ya posted! Still looking forward to SnapCoupes results. Cheers!

[DiFFv1]

Damn brother im sorry to hear that please keep me updated with codes and issues. I want to help out

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

Damn brother im sorry to hear that please keep me updated with codes and issues. I want to help out

I had the 2BDE & 2BF0 that wouldn’t go away until this AM but they haven’t shown back up yet. Maybe a fluke while the dme recalibrated itself? During my drive the rail pressure was still dipping below 700 so I’m unsure if that’s normal or maybe the lpfp is on it’s way out also. I started disassembling the car to tackle the monstrous task of doing the valve cover so once that’s done I’ll do a couple hours worth of drives & logs. Overall, I’m still happy the pressure stayed at 74.ish!

Snapcoupe - if you haven’t seen this DIY yet this is what I followed:

https://youtu.be/nAfMh1_KKNE

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I had the 2BDE & 2BF0 that wouldn't go away until this AM but they haven't shown back up yet. Maybe a fluke while the dme recalibrated itself? During my drive the rail pressure was still dipping below 700 so I'm unsure if that's normal or maybe the lpfp is on it's way out also. I started disassembling the car to tackle the monstrous task of doing the valve cover so once that's done I'll do a couple hours worth of drives & logs. Overall, I'm still happy the pressure stayed at 74.ish!

Snapcoupe - if you haven't seen this DIY yet this is what I followed:

Thats weird because mine went away completely. Has to be another issue going on i say do the valve cover then Sensor

[SnapCoupe]

Replaced the regulator last night. Rail pressure is now a consistent 75 psi before start up (vs 18 before). No stuttering or missing either. Car fired right up after sitting all night!

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Replaced the regulator last night. Rail pressure is now a consistent 75 psi before start up (vs 18 before). No stuttering or missing either. Car fired right up after sitting all night!

SWEET! Happy it worked out

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Replaced the regulator last night. Rail pressure is now a consistent 75 psi before start up (vs 18 before). No stuttering or missing either. Car fired right up after sitting all night!

I told you! Good news brotha

[SoCal_BMW_LA]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I feel your pain! Hopefully the more seasoned owners have a solid diagnostic plan. I can tell you with mine I had shadow codes 2BDE & 2BF0 + the long crank issue. I replaced the HPFP & fuel rail sensor now both codes are gone as well as the long crank. Probably didn’t need to replace the sensor...but I was already there and with no real knowledge of previous maint done on the car I figured why not I’m already there. I’ve still got a random rail spike issue when at a stop but those codes havent returned yet.

Any codes after replacing high-pressure fuel pump yet thinking about doing mine

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by xavier1228

Any codes after replacing high-pressure fuel pump yet thinking about doing mine

I haven’t had any fuel related codes since I swapped out the hpfp. I also didnt have any fuel related codes prior to doing my regulator. What I did have was some random fuel pressure spikes at idle and monitored the pressure after shutdown which was dropping well below ~74 psi which promoted me to do the regulator (plus a lot of reading through posts).

[SnapCoupe]

Hey guys,

Following the FPR job, I have been running into issues with getting a "gas cap open" code on the car. It happened quite a bit initially as I avoided tightening down the metal rings that require either a ton of time with a hammer/screwdriver to open/close or a BMW special tool due to wanting to make sure everything worked fine before locking them down. A week or so after, I went in and tightened the rings the best I could without having the special tool. The code seemed to not come back until very recently, so it has gotten better, but there is still a leak somewhere making it come on every so often.

My question is, will this issue be solved by further tightening the rings? Or Is this something that I am going to have to pop them back open and fiddle about with the FPR or bucket to solve?

Additionally, I posted this in the MHD thread:

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Could anyone give me some insight as to why my rail pressure is fluctuating this much on WOT? New HPFP, FP regulator.

https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/stage-...27-28-29-30-31

https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/stage-...27-28-29-30-31

https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/stage-...27-28-29-30-31

Consistent in three logs. Not sure what would be causing it. Thanks!

Could this be potentially related to the slight leak that is popping the fuel door code?

[HeyTeeee]

Not helpful for the code but this is the tool I ordered when I did mine
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079...b_b_asin_title

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Not helpful for the code but this is the tool I ordered when I did mine
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079...b_b_asin_title

Oooh. Thanks for the link. I might just order that to avoid the headache of using the janky screwdriver/hammer method. I have already bent a few of the metal tabs on the rings.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Not helpful for the code but this is the tool I ordered when I did mine
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079...b_b_asin_title

I just got this tool in and tried to use it over the weekend. Any advice as to how to use it without slipping? I feel like i'm potentially not using it right as I can't apply too much torque without it popping off the ring.

[HeyTeeee]

I’ve spent a good portion of the day trying to figure out how to explain how I did it but im a shit explainer lol Ill have to get back there and take a pic. I sat the tool over notches, turned it until contact and then tightened down the arms. Id be amazed if you could interpret that into action so Ill get you a pic.