[HeyTeeee]

*correction* they are the tools used in newtis I cant remember what was used in the manual having a brain fart

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

It is basically the tool(s) used in my Bentley manual. A diy vid I watched use the three pieces to compress the seal before installing into the head, another video had a metal seal covering tip + seal. I didn’t want to take the chance of gouging the seal like another member stated earlier. Plus, if I or someone else needs to do something with injectors I’ve got the tools

Good stuff man. Just wanted to let you know that for the install its def not needed. I have done this job 20k miles ago and had ZERO issues.

What is needed is the injector removal and install tool. Injectors are usually pretty stuck in there

[Zygote55]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Good stuff man. Just wanted to let you know that for the install its def not needed. I have done this job 20k miles ago and had ZERO issues.

What is needed is the injector removal and install tool. Injectors are usually pretty stuck in there

This is the correct information. There was no way to get my injectors out without the correct removal tool. I didn't use anything to compress the ring... Newtis only says you need to do this if you're reusing your old injectors and need to put on a new ring.

Edit - here's a link to my thread about injector removal/installation on a 2011 135i N55 - https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...php?p=24323908

[weehe126]

To remove a stuck injector without the fancy tool, just use a 13mm (I think) open end wrench to rotate the injector back and forth as you pull.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by weehe126

To remove a stuck injector without the fancy tool, just use a 13mm (I think) open end wrench to rotate the injector back and forth as you pull.

I personally struggled quite a bit. I honestly advise against not using a tool for the simple reason that if that injector tip breaks during removal then you are really screwed. A simple 2 hour job becomes a nightmare.

I am not saying it cant be done but the tool from china is 30 bucks. CNC aluminum machined. It was so well made that i can put that on display

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I personally struggled quite a bit. I honestly advise against not using a tool for the simple reason that if that injector tip breaks during removal then you are really screwed. A simple 2 hour job becomes a nightmare.

I am not saying it cant be done but the tool from china is 30 bucks. CNC aluminum machined. It was so well made that i can put that on display

Like this?
https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Injector-Removal-Installation-Engine/dp/B07P114RM6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=injector+puller+bmw&qid=15 57358323&s=gateway&sr=8-7

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Like this?
https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Injecto...gateway&sr=8-7

Yes exactly. Thats all you need. Make sure u get the correct one. Late n55 and early n55 are different. They cannot be used interchangeably.

[Zygote55]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Like this?
https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Injecto...gateway&sr=8-7

That's not the right tool for your car. The injectors you ordered (13537568607) are the "bottom hold-down device" injectors. You'll need this tool - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lines/ByZRnr1D

The tool is pretty difficult to find because BMW changed the injector hold-down after 1/1/11 and required a different tool. I got it from Bavarian Autosport, but they closed and it doesn't look like ECS carries it. It used to be here - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian...rsrc=bvadomain

Also, here are the instructions I used for my car, but it should be the same on yours - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lines/HKyLG4RQ

Note that you only have to worry about compressing a ring if you're reusing an injector. If you're installing a new injector you just remove the plastic cover from the tip, put a new decoupler on it, and put it in the car.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Zygote55

That's not the right tool for your car. The injectors you ordered (13537568607) are the "bottom hold-down device" injectors. You'll need this tool - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lines/ByZRnr1D

The tool is pretty difficult to find because BMW changed the injector hold-down after 1/1/11 and required a different tool. I got it from Bavarian Autosport, but they closed and it doesn't look like ECS carries it. It used to be here - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian...rsrc=bvadomain

Also, here are the instructions I used for my car, but it should be the same on yours - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lines/HKyLG4RQ

Note that you only have to worry about compressing a ring if you're reusing an injector. If you're installing a new injector you just remove the plastic cover from the tip, put a new decoupler on it, and put it in the car.

Once again I appreciate all the info guys. You're not kidding it’s a bish to find. I did find on one webpage about 100 bucks or so. That’ll have to wait since I just got the upper rail guide replaced which cost a nice chunk of change. Owell. I’d rather have the right tools than wing it.

[Zygote55]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Once again I appreciate all the info guys. You're not kidding it’s a bish to find. I did find on one webpage about 100 bucks or so. That’ll have to wait since I just got the upper rail guide replaced which cost a nice chunk of change. Owell. I’d rather have the right tools than wing it.

Glad to help. I ended up ordering all the wrong stuff and being totally confused for a long time before I realized that not all N55s have the same injectors. There's little to no information about this anywhere online and if it wasn't for realoem and newtis I don't think I'd have ever figured it out.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Zygote55

Glad to help. I ended up ordering all the wrong stuff and being totally confused for a long time before I realized that not all N55s have the same injectors. There's little to no information about this anywhere online and if it wasn't for realoem and newtis I don't think I'd have ever figured it out.

I was on the same boat. The only good thing with N55 is much cheaper injectors than N54.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I was on the same boat. The only good thing with N55 is much cheaper injectors than N54.

I swear to bob I feel more educated on n54 stuff than my n55 haha finding info can be a real pita and I go through great lengths of searching before posting. If all goes well money wise I can tackle injectors next weekend. Might try to figure out installing Rheingold this weekend. If anyone has the bottom hold and is having a hard time finding the tool I’ve got a couple links for ya. The top hold down tool is everywhere.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-173154-83300496669-genuine-bmw-part/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Fuel-Injector-Removal-Installation-Tool-OEM-130270-/133034301890?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

[HeyTeeee]

The last 3 injectors + removal tool should arrive this week. If all goes well and no surprises appear I should be able to swap all 6 and let you know how the tool works. I’m doing this as part of my own maintenance plan bought the car with high miles in December. Part of my reasoning is I simply want peace of mind knowing the parts are fresh. The other is to ensure everything is healthy before anything performance-wise happens. I figure this will also make diagnosing a lot easier in the future.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

The last 3 injectors + removal tool should arrive this week. If all goes well and no surprises appear I should be able to swap all 6 and let you know how the tool works. I’m doing this as part of my own maintenance plan bought the car with high miles in December. Part of my reasoning is I simply want peace of mind knowing the parts are fresh. The other is to ensure everything is healthy before anything performance-wise happens. I figure this will also make diagnosing a lot easier in the future.

My guess is the only issue you will find is with the 6th position due to the location. That position is also more difficult to use the tool. It tends to ctch on the valve cover if you screw the nuts too far in. You will see what i mean by that once u start working. But overall its a very easy job.

[Hannibal4444]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

After quite a few searches and no real solid answers about the tool I ended up ordering this: http://www.freedomracing.com/130191-...r-kit-alt.html

I ordered something like this for my injectors as well. On the tis guide, it shows using the one tool to compress the teflon seals, however, the tool did not taper inside so it did not compress the seal at all. It basically was a useless tool in the kit. I ended up using the dies to compress it. I'm not so sure, but I don't think those dies are the spec for the n55 injectors. I haven't noticed any leaking visually and in logs, so that's a good sign. I just hate the fact that I bought an identical kit specifically for the n55 and I ended up using the dies for compression.

Although my tool could have been a defect, but I doubt it. Let me know how the compression tool goes for your injectors

[TZANIDO777]

Quick question: How easy was it to center the injector lines?

I am having a hard time getting them centered even though the nut on the injector and fuel rail both smoothly thread by hand before bottoming out and needing final torque. When I go to final torque them with the proper fuel line socket they all seem to go slightly off centered.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Hannibal4444

I ordered something like this for my injectors as well. On the tis guide, it shows using the one tool to compress the teflon seals, however, the tool did not taper inside so it did not compress the seal at all. It basically was a useless tool in the kit. I ended up using the dies to compress it. I'm not so sure, but I don't think those dies are the spec for the n55 injectors. I haven't noticed any leaking visually and in logs, so that's a good sign. I just hate the fact that I bought an identical kit specifically for the n55 and I ended up using the dies for compression.

Although my tool could have been a defect, but I doubt it. Let me know how the compression tool goes for your injectors

I started it last night and will finish it hopefully tonight. I dropped the fkn screw for the turbo side inlet into the abyss that is the engine bay so that will probably take all night to find I did cylinders 6-3. The first hold down bracket was a real bish to get in until I realized I could slide it in right to left. I’ll post photos of the injectors once done. Idk what bad/clogged injectors look like so I’m sure one of you seasoned folks will be able to provide some visual insight. I also don’t think i torqued down 6-5 very well so I’ll do a final touch on em.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I started it last night and will finish it hopefully tonight. I dropped the fkn screw for the turbo side inlet into the abyss that is the engine bay so that will probably take all night to find I did cylinders 6-3. The first hold down bracket was a real bish to get in until I realized I could slide it in right to left. I’ll post photos of the injectors once done. Idk what bad/clogged injectors look like so I’m sure one of you seasoned folks will be able to provide some visual insight. I also don’t think i torqued down 6-5 very well so I’ll do a final touch on em.

u cannot really tell by looking if the injectors are "clogged" . All will have carbon build up on them. This carbon builds up very quickly and it does not affect performance. These injectors unlike traditional injectors are more problematic for leaking than clogging. Injectors performance can only be tested with the full line pressure and voltage signal to drive the solenoid. You obs wont have that type of set up.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by Pladi

u cannot really tell by looking if the injectors are "clogged" . All will have carbon build up on them. This carbon builds up very quickly and it does not affect performance. These injectors unlike traditional injectors are more problematic for leaking than clogging. Injectors performance can only be tested with the full line pressure and voltage signal to drive the solenoid. You obs wont have that type of set up.

Nope sure won’t. Aside from say something obvious such as a broken tip or missing seal (that would be real bad) anything I can learn from a visual inspection? Kind of like when you look at plugs.

Side note. I think i can buy just about every screw for this car except that 1 screw I dropped. Definitely not buying a whole duct unit for a single screw. I tried to weasel my way out of dropping the belly pan.

[HeyTeeee]

Injectors out

[weehe126]

Put the tip caps from the new ones on those old ones and save them. Unless you were getting codes those look like they are fine. FWIW I've only had to replace 1 injector and I'm at 130k miles.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Put the tip caps from the new ones on those old ones and save them. Unless you were getting codes those look like they are fine. FWIW I've only had to replace 1 injector and I'm at 130k miles.

Ive got em in the boxes number 3 was covered in fuel and I’m not sure if it was coincidence or not. Interestingly enough 3&4 in one of my older logs didn’t have any corrections. Took a log last night consistent corrections through all. Car does feel more responsive from a stop. Before It had inconsistent hesitation. Sometimes shed move other times felt like we were going to stall. I typed up all the protool parameters going to see what else I can observe. I did run the rough cylinder 1-6 live data I’ll need to read more in depth as my understanding is minimal - they should be close to 0. Cylinders 1 2 4 5 have either gone + or - 1