[DialMforMarco]

Hey E90 communiy,
I have a 2010 335i coupe with some issues shifting.
I can't shift into gear (most of the time) when the car is on. When I try to force it in gear, even without pushing in the clutch pedal, the car starts rolling forward slowly.
When the car is off I can shift into gear. Also, I can start the car in gear, and shift a couple times before it gets stuck again.
I was told to change the clutch slave and master cylinder which I did. Besides, maybe not doing a good job bleeding it I still have the same symptoms.
Does anyone have an idea of what is going on, or how to diagnose what the problem is?
Thanks.

[nsjames]

your clutch is not releasing from the flywheel.

how are you trying to bleed the clutch? I've only ever had success with pressure bleeding.

if you're confident the clutch hydraulics are good and it still doesn't work, something's broken in the belhlousing. Like a clutch fork.
you're probably pulling a trans if it's not hydraulic related.

[DialMforMarco]

I used a pressure bleeder I bought from Amazon that is in all the YouTube videos. The clutch pedal doesn't feel like it used to. It's feels about how it felt during the last week or so since I started having difficulty shifting. It feels like if I pushed a little further I could shift it but its fully depressed already.
I've pulled the trans once before and I could do it again. I dont know what I would be looking for though unless there is something obviously broken or misplaced. Also the clutch is a spec 2+ that is under 2 years old. So I dont think its that part at least.

[Aceway]

Check your pivot pin. After 400 miles on my spec stage 3+ and I was having the same exact issues you're having now. Turned out the plastic pin was bent. Replaced with metal one and that fixed it.

[DialMforMarco]

I installed a brass pivot pin one when I replaced the clutch. Do you think the brass pin would fail?

Also, i did notice my clutch/brake pedal assembly is broken and is missing a spring connection because of it, but I don't think that is the problem. I'm pretty sure it has been broke since I bought the car and the master cylinder compresses all the way.

[Aceway]

Originally Posted by DialMforMarco

I installed a brass pivot pin one when I replaced the clutch. Do you think the brass pin would fail?

Also, i did notice my clutch/brake pedal assembly is broken and is missing a spring connection because of it, but I don't think that is the problem. I'm pretty sure it has been broke since I bought the car and the master cylinder compresses all the way.

Hmm not sure, next steps would probably getting one of those wire cameras through the hole under the transmission to see if there's anything out of place with the clutch or bearings. Did shifting improve at all when you bled the clutch?

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by DialMforMarco

I installed a brass pivot pin one when I replaced the clutch. Do you think the brass pin would fail?

Also, i did notice my clutch/brake pedal assembly is broken and is missing a spring connection because of it, but I don't think that is the problem. I'm pretty sure it has been broke since I bought the car and the master cylinder compresses all the way.

full stop.

your clutch pedal assembly is broken, or bent?

fix it. It all relies on the correct geometry of the pedal and linkage to get the full stroke out of the master.

I fixed a buddy's jeep that had always had chronic clutch problems.
The pedal was bent. Pulled it out, torched the pedal back straight, drives better than it ever did.


so check it carefully, a bent pedal bracket could be the source of your issues.

[DialMforMarco]

So I dropped the tranny. There is a broken ring of some sort. Any thoughts. Also, what else should I be looking for while its out?

[DialMforMarco]

I just realized it's the clutch springs. This clutch had about 20k miles how does this happen(bad driving, bad part, etc...) ? Also can I get away with just getting a clutch disc?
Should I stick with the spec 2+?

[hassmaschine]

E90s don't have clutch springs. Dual mass flywheels move that part to the flywheel itself - you flywheel has failed, not the clutch.

Did you reuse the original DMF? Otherwise, it could be anything - bad parts, abuse, improper installation, etc. A new clutch and flywheel should last 200k miles, but all bets are off if you reused the original flywheel..

[DialMforMarco]

I upgraded the clutch when I bought it drove it home and watched it fail lol
I upgraded it and currently have a spec2+ clutch with the m factory SMFW
Seems like it failed again after about 20k miles in 1.5 years. Now the clutch looks like its losing its baby teeth lol
I'm at 89k miles now. Since I'll be replacing the clutch what should I and what should I not do
Resurface flywheel
Change rear main seal
New pilot bearing (changed 20k miles ago)
Change tranny fluid (changed 20k miles ago)
Polyurethane Transmission mounts
Short shifter and shifter rod assembly

[nsjames]

oof.

grease those input shaft splines when yo uinstall it.

those splines look like shit.

[hassmaschine]

Pretty sure you're supposed to grease them when you put in the clutch/flywheel.

[DialMforMarco]

Here's watch the clutch ended up looking like.
Also the fly wheel has so scratches on the part that doesn't touch, do you think it's still good? It's a smfw

[hassmaschine]

What brand clutch is that? That thing is hammered. Do you drag race at every stop light? lol.

[DialMforMarco]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

What brand clutch is that? That thing is hammered. Do you drag race at every stop light? lol.

Its a spec 2+ and I only did one burn out. Maybe its the stop and go traffic in Sacramento? I ended up buying the spec 3+ since they have it on fcpeuro...lifetime warrany on everything sold...YAY