[azusuph]

Hi guys.

I have this ccid87 on my e90 and I changed all right rear bulbs but the code is still there. Does anyone have an idea of what to do? Thanks a mill.

[lowrydr310]

I had the same thing happen but the left side. The bulb was fine but I noticed the metal clip that the base of the bulb contacts had some corrosion. I sanded it smooth and bent it up more so it contacts the bulb with more force and haven't had the fault code return.

If that doesn't work, it may be a broken wire. Check the wiring loom that goes from the trunk lid to the chassis, just under the base of the rear window on the right side.

[Tunafish]

What bulbs did you use?

[azusuph]

lowrydr310 Thanks I will definitely try that and let you know if that's the prob.


Tunafish Its OSRAM BA15s Ultra life

[Tunafish]

There any serval different type of Osram BA15s Ultra Life.. You should be using P21W... Not R10W or R5W all have the BA15s base.

[azusuph]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

There any serval different type of Osram BA15s Ultra Life.. You should be using P21W... Not R10W or R5W all have the BA15s base.

Yes I am using the P21W.

[azusuph]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I had the same thing happen but the left side. The bulb was fine but I noticed the metal clip that the base of the bulb contacts had some corrosion. I sanded it smooth and bent it up more so it contacts the bulb with more force and haven't had the fault code return.

If that doesn't work, it may be a broken wire. Check the wiring loom that goes from the trunk lid to the chassis, just under the base of the rear window on the right side.

I have done all these checks and everything is fine. No corrosion and the contacts are good. Also the wires seem fine. Could it be a fuse?

[Tunafish]

Are the lights not working or are they working and you are just throwing a code? If they are not working you will probably have to reset footwell short circuit, once you verify you dont have a short.

[azusuph]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

Are the lights not working or are they working and you are just throwing a code? If they are not working you will probably have to reset footwell short circuit, once you verify you dont have a short.

I discovered its the tail lamp (middle one on the trunk) that is specifically not working. the bulb is new so its not the bulb. the connections and contacts are good. so I am thinking it may be a fuse but I don't know which fuse is the the tail lamp.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by azusuph

I discovered its the tail lamp (middle one on the trunk) that is specifically not working. the bulb is new so its not the bulb. the connections and contacts are good. so I am thinking it may be a fuse but I don't know which fuse is the the tail lamp.

Since that Light is on the Trunk Lid, it is likely that either the B+ (Yellow/Violet) wire that provides power to the bulb, or the Ground (Brown) wire that completes the "circuit" is broken inside the sheath where all wires from the trunk lid pass to the chassis. Flexing of these wires with repeated open/close of trunk lid causes them to break and go "open-circuit". So if the bulb is "known-good", and the contacts are clean in the socket, then you should test electrically with a multimeter BOTH the B+ & Ground wires as described below.

If that is the ONLY exterior light NOT working, the failure of "E81" (see below) lamp to light is NOT due to a fuse, as there is NO "dedicated" fuse for that ONE light bulb, but rather the FRM Module, which powers all the lights, has FOUR (4) fuses which power multiple bulbs & functions. Here is the TIS wiring diagram for the FRM Module on your 2008 316i, provided ONLY for purposes of seeing Power Supply to FRM Module via fuses F41, F81, F84 & F86, but those are NOT your problem:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...module/hbS2Tys

To make sure we're on the same page, I understand the light that is NOT lighting when other tail/parking lights DO light is "E81" as shown in this TIS Installation Location for rear lamps:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-316i-lim/RqPggCq

When you have a situation where bulb is OK, but it does NOT light when others do, the BEST way to test is with a Multimeter. Here is the "Tail Light" or "Side Light, Parking Light" TIS Circuit; the "Connector View" for the electrical Connector X328 at that Bulb Socket is also linked below:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lights/i7o2pTr
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTLOLnQW

Referring to the Side Light wiring diagram, note that 12V+ or B+ Switched Battery Voltage is supplied to that lamp E81 via the Yellow/Violet wire from the FRM to Pin #3 of Connector X328. So you want to test that Socket #3 of X328 for 12V+ in Reference to Chassis Ground (NOT Tailgate metal but Body Metal) when Ignition & Light are ON. My SWAG is you do NOT have voltage in that wire. You can check your measurement technique/ equipment by repeating that test on Socket #1 (Black/Blue wire) of X328 with Ignition ON, engine OFF, Reverse Gear selected. That is the Reversing Light Power supply for the Right Lamp Socket.

To test the Ground connection to the E81 bulb socket via the Brown wire to Socket #2 of Connector X328, test for "Continuity to CHASSIS Ground" or "near-zero" resistance (Ohms) between that socket #2 and a good Chassis (NOT Trunk Lid) Ground. If you have any questions about testing equipment or method, please let us know. Please let us know what you find. There are a number of people on the Forums who have had broken wires at the Trunk Lid flex point, and they can help with method of accessing & repairing.

George

[azusuph]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Since that Light is on the Trunk Lid, it is likely that either the B+ (Yellow/Violet) wire that provides power to the bulb, or the Ground (Brown) wire that completes the "circuit" is broken inside the sheath where all wires from the trunk lid pass to the chassis. Flexing of these wires with repeated open/close of trunk lid causes them to break and go "open-circuit". So if the bulb is "known-good", and the contacts are clean in the socket, then you should test electrically with a multimeter BOTH the B+ & Ground wires as described below.

If that is the ONLY exterior light NOT working, the failure of "E81" (see below) lamp to light is NOT due to a fuse, as there is NO "dedicated" fuse for that ONE light bulb, but rather the FRM Module, which powers all the lights, has FOUR (4) fuses which power multiple bulbs & functions. Here is the TIS wiring diagram for the FRM Module on your 2008 316i, provided ONLY for purposes of seeing Power Supply to FRM Module via fuses F41, F81, F84 & F86, but those are NOT your problem:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...module/hbS2Tys

To make sure we're on the same page, I understand the light that is NOT lighting when other tail/parking lights DO light is "E81" as shown in this TIS Installation Location for rear lamps:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-316i-lim/RqPggCq

When you have a situation where bulb is OK, but it does NOT light when others do, the BEST way to test is with a Multimeter. Here is the "Tail Light" or "Side Light, Parking Light" TIS Circuit; the "Connector View" for the electrical Connector X328 at that Bulb Socket is also linked below:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lights/i7o2pTr
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTLOLnQW

Referring to the Side Light wiring diagram, note that 12V+ or B+ Switched Battery Voltage is supplied to that lamp E81 via the Yellow/Violet wire from the FRM to Pin #3 of Connector X328. So you want to test that Socket #3 of X328 for 12V+ in Reference to Chassis Ground (NOT Tailgate metal but Body Metal) when Ignition & Light are ON. My SWAG is you do NOT have voltage in that wire. You can check your measurement technique/ equipment by repeating that test on Socket #1 (Black/Blue wire) of X328 with Ignition ON, engine OFF, Reverse Gear selected. That is the Reversing Light Power supply for the Right Lamp Socket.

To test the Ground connection to the E81 bulb socket via the Brown wire to Socket #2 of Connector X328, test for "Continuity to CHASSIS Ground" or "near-zero" resistance (Ohms) between that socket #2 and a good Chassis (NOT Trunk Lid) Ground. If you have any questions about testing equipment or method, please let us know. Please let us know what you find. There are a number of people on the Forums who have had broken wires at the Trunk Lid flex point, and they can help with method of accessing & repairing.

George

Thanks a mill gbalthrop for the detailed instruction. I will get a multimeter and give this a try. I will update ass soon as I am able to carry this out.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by azusuph

... I will get a multimeter and give this a try...

Don't need to "Break the Bank". A 7 Quid Chinese-Cheapie such as the Rolson or "Amazingdeal" (sold by HFT in US for $7, just in a different color) shown in this AmazonUK link have worked fine for me for years:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=multime...levanceblender

George

[azusuph]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Don't need to "Break the Bank". A 7 Quid Chinese-Cheapie such as the Rolson or "Amazingdeal" (sold by HFT in US for $7, just in a different color) shown in this AmazonUK link have worked fine for me for years:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=multime...levanceblender

George

Thanks George. I have ordered one on Amazon and will do the test when it arrives. thanks a mill.

[azusuph]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Don't need to "Break the Bank". A 7 Quid Chinese-Cheapie such as the Rolson or "Amazingdeal" (sold by HFT in US for $7, just in a different color) shown in this AmazonUK link have worked fine for me for years:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=multime...levanceblender

George

Hi George
I finally got the multimeter delivered. If you don't mind my troubles, can you kindly give a small procedure on testing the wires with the multimeter? I mean what and what do I connect what wires on the meter to. Please pardon me, I am not good with mechanical stuffs. Thanks.

[leif20]

EDIT - SOLVED. Two broken wires, on the trunk to body harness (had to cut and peel away trunk harness. Both ground wires to the inner tail lights were broken. Repaired with splices and now lights are working fine, with no errors.

.................................................. ...........
I had an issue with my right side inner light (e90 330i sedan pre 2007). I had no lights at all on the right side bulb sockets (tail lamp/reverse/brake). Outboards, left trunk lights, and all other lights were fine. CCID codes 87 and 115.

I pulled the trunk bulb sockets, swapped R to L and L to R, and the socket that was not lighting up on the right lit up on the left. So, some sort of wiring issue to the right side of the trunk lights. I did not find any obvious wiring issue to the harness between the body and trunk. I then looked at the R side connector, disassembled it and pressed each pin slightly so it would make better contact (this worked on a different connector in the past). Then reassembled connector and put bulb socket back in. Turning on the light, now both right and LEFT socket as well won't light up.

I followed instructions and checked short circuit counts on Tool32 as per video in post 1: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1382040

I was able to reset a short circuit with count of 1 on the right side reverse light (RFL recht - code 9CBC). I guess i shorted one of the pin while disassembling it... although the car was off and lights were off so I am not sure why I would see that. Perhaps an error from before.

In the FRM I now have codes 931b and 931c but they are not short circuited (confirmed with tool 32). So now, I believe it's wiring or fusing issue. I checked fuse 59 and it seems to be fine. The FRM works just fine otherwise. Does this indicate an issue with the wiring harness in the trunk? It's possible that when I disassembled the connector on the right side (did not touch the left) that I jostled wires enough to break a loose connection. But what is confusing to me is that I have no obvious break in the wires that I can see.

Best course of action - take multimeter and probe each line for continuity? I'd start with the grounds. But if the grounds are good, why would all inner lights on both sides 12V (for reverse, inner tail lamp, inner brake) be off?