[b1mmr]

I've got a ticking noise that is worse some days than others.. It's not really noticeable until I pull up beside my house, or the drive thru, or if I get out of my car in the garage while the engine is still running. Typically I think nothing of it but some days it makes you wonder. 08 335xi.. It's a consistent tick and jb4 menu 10 seems to have no effect.. Maybe a belt? Or lifters? Not a clue.

[Cory S]

I've had ticking for 3 weeks. Read somewhere that I need to beat on the car a little for 10 minutes. Last 3 weeks I have seriously just granny drove the car to work. I have a N55 335... This morning I went WOT for 4-8 seconds at a time, and a total of about 8-10 times..... Got home and ticking is gone... Thought that was pretty neat!!

[b1mmr]

Originally Posted by Cory S

I've had ticking for 3 weeks. Read somewhere that I need to beat on the car a little for 10 minutes. Last 3 weeks I have seriously just granny drove the car to work. I have a N55 335... This morning I went WOT for 4-8 seconds at a time, and a total of about 8-10 times..... Got home and ticking is gone... Thought that was pretty neat!!

Heard it's an oil circulation issue, if this the case that would mean that you circulated harder ie ticking going away. Don't quote me or anything.. My ticking is random and I notice it at the drive thru the most lol.

[b1mmr]

Originally Posted by J. Dub

I have an n54 and removed my engine cover along with removed my cowl plastics... Plus, I have a vented CF hood.

My engine truly sounds like a quite diesel engine. (Ticking) Whether at idle, at temp, cold, or accelerating. Doesn't matter whether it's cold or hot.

I thought this was a known issue with N54 and not a concern?

Well I hope so

[citizen_insane]

Welp, such a bummer but my ticking is back. I noticed mine a few weeks after buying my 2007 328i used with 69k miles on the clock in late 2011. I took it back to the dealer during the 90 day warranty period and they replaced the lifters but not the head.

As of yesterday, the car has started making the dreaded sound again at 108k miles. It was cold and the car had sat for a couple days so the conditions were perfect. It's too bad it failed now, the car is out of the 3 yr repair warranty by only about 2 months

I'm glad to hear people are still reporting this as an NVH issue only (and not a durability one). I wish I'd pushed harder for the head replacement, but it's in the past now.

[lordsixel]

I have same problem, can you check this video and tell me if yours sounds like mine and how you fixed it? thank you so much!

[exdee]

Noticed that the only way to prevent ticking was to drive the car in higher revs and not driving it like a granny

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by lordsixel

I have same problem, can you check this video and tell me if yours sounds like mine and how you fixed it? thank you so much!

This sounds too noisy from mine when it happens. It sounds like the noise is faster than the engine rpm.
Not an expert though.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by exdee

Noticed that the only way to prevent ticking was to drive the car in higher revs and not driving it like a granny

Just don't let the car idle or run low rpm for a while after starting cold. Cold engine running low rpms for a while depletes the lifters from oil eventually, which causes the ticking noise. Running high rpm for a while after that bleeds the air from the lifters and fills back with oil getting rid of the noise.

[paco89]

I just want to pitch in from my experience. Recently my local bmw dealer did my oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket along with an oil change. Once done, my oil level sensor failed. During winter i begun getting the metal ticking almost daily, some days louder than others. I have not been able to read the oil level, but (don't recommend it) i trusted that it should be full since all gaskets were new. Today in the morning I decided to add a quart of 0-30 Mobil 1 oil and after a minute the metal ticking went away. Right now I am not sure whether I was low on oil or if it just needed new oil or an extra lub. Not sure yet, but I read that someone here did the same thing to his and the ticking stopped, so i tried it and it worked for me. I will be replacing the oil level sensor soon along with my vanos solenoids and doing an oil change, I will then see my oil level to see if that was the cause to begin with. I will stay posted.

[catcher22]

Oh My God this thread is 10 years old :

before the e92 even was released LOL

[b1mmr]

Originally Posted by catcher22

Oh My God this thread is 10 years old :

before the e92 even was released LOL

Proves bmw is uninterested in resolving this particular issue hehe

[Nickshaw1989]

Hi there I'm new and it won't let me start a new topic not sure how to use this but I have a e90 325i Lci my car makes a strange noise at 81-83 mph coming from the front if I go faster or slower it stops it's not engine related as still makes noise with clutch down

[b1mmr]

Originally Posted by Nickshaw1989

Hi there I'm new and it won't let me start a new topic not sure how to use this but I have a e90 325i Lci my car makes a strange noise at 81-83 mph coming from the front if I go faster or slower it stops it's not engine related as still makes noise with clutch down

Sometimes when wheel bearings are starting to go out, they will be audible at certain speeds.. Eventually that range will widen and then the sound will happen all the time. Just my experience.

[b-drizzle]

I am getting head gasket work done at moment. What parts do I need to make the ticking stop?

If i am understanding correct, I need 6 of these:
11 33 7 605 330
Hydraulic Valve Lifter (HVA)

[LsuGeaux]

The KEY to fixing the problem.

Turn the engine on. Hold down the gas pedal and let the RPMS sit between 2/3 for 120 SECONDS.

[J. Dub]

Originally Posted by LsuGeaux

The KEY to fixing the problem.

Turn the engine on. Hold down the gas pedal and let the RPMS sit between 2/3 for 120 SECONDS.

On an N54 engine?

[LsuGeaux]

Originally Posted by J. Dub

On an N54 engine?

2006 325i. I believe my engine is N52

[J. Dub]

I have an N54 that ticks. Listen to it STOP at the 5.9 second mark here in this video:::

www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnO_ayvGriw

[Walruf]

As a relatively new 335i owner I am glad mine isn't the only one with this issue -- people have been complaining about it for over 10 years!

I've only noticed mine at idle after a cold start, but I'm glad to have the peace of mind in knowing that it's a common issue.

[ozziewizzle]

This Could Be The Answer For Most Of You

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5vGmVJT9tE

[chris7520]

This is a very long thread and full of good info and I'd like to add something and since i don't have the time to read all 119 pages

I hope Im not repeating something that has been said many times. my apologies I am.

I've seen oil level mentioned out of speck lifters and even octane. So here are my observations, The e9x engines are very oil dependent in running various systems beside bearing lubrication. any bit of sludge, low oil level or small solids will play havoc with the Lifters, Vanos system parts and of course bearings and the oil pump its self. the other thing is these motors like is to be run hard from time to time. the oil pumps are variable to the load you are placing on the motor, so unless you are pushing the motor the oil volume and pressures can be quite low, and of course some lifters are just bad from the factory, but not changing the oil enough for your given driving conditions is the biggest culprit of the clicking lifter issues mentioned in this thread or Vanos system codes, most can be traced back to not taking care of the oil in your car over long periods of time. constantly having low oil, (thats needing at least a 1 quart or more less oil equals hotter oil) oil that has reached its service limit and is dirty or has broken down because you should be changing it more often because of driving conditions the car does not alway catch this. like short trips will allow condensation to build up putting water in your oil always a bad thing even small amounts.

I have never bought into BMWs 15K interval for oil, 7500 is more realistic given most owners driving styles and if you only do stop and go driving for short distances 75% of the time change that to 5K. only the guy or gal putting consistent long easy 70+mph highway miles on their car can even consider the 15K service suggestion. I do that and still do 7K for changes. as an example I have 206K on my n52 still sounds like a swish watch. and sounds even better after I've pushed hard on a winding road. Hope this helps.