[insanesam]

Originally Posted by rooks335

Nice setup neat work area there. Considering changing the engine mount too?

Didn't change out the mounts. But after completing this job I'm sure I can change them out in under 2 hours.

[BSG335]

Yesterday - filling up fuel and someone wanted to talk about my 313 wheels.. turned out to be Aussieatlarge !

Good to meet you!

But on that note - can someone tell me why Premium 98 is as high as 183.9?? Crude is down around USD53/bbl and AUDUSD is at .6949 as of this writing. WTH!

[BSG335]

Originally Posted by insanesam

Oil pan gasket. Definitely full body workout on jack stands

You are keen! Every N54 needs this done eventually... I'm just not looking forward to doing it on jack stands / on the floor.

[badmanners]

Chasing an annoying creak in the front end somewhere I replaced the steering rack mount bolts, very surprised how little tension was on the original bolts. They must stretch/loosen off somehow.

[rooks335]

Originally Posted by badmanners

Chasing an annoying creak in the front end somewhere I replaced the steering rack mount bolts, very surprised how little tension was on the original bolts. They must stretch/loosen off somehow.

being aluminum bolts they are meant to be single use apparently.
where did you get the new bolts from ? thinking of tightening mine down with the torque wrench but new bolts could probably make things quieter when turning.

[badmanners]

Originally Posted by rooks335

being aluminum bolts they are meant to be single use apparently.
where did you get the new bolts from ? thinking of tightening mine down with the torque wrench but new bolts could probably make things quieter when turning.

They aren't aluminium rooks335, I bought originals from the local stealership, hate going into a fasteners suppliers for 2 bolts and nuts! Wouldn't have worked out much cheaper.

P No 32106773068 ASA-BOLT Qty 2 $24.64
P No 31356757707 Hex nut Qty 2 $12.30
Torque is 56 Nm + 90 degrees.

Was a bit of an arse getting the nut on the mount nearest the steering column, but not impossible.

Cheers, badmanners.

[Ken Oath]

Originally Posted by badmanners

They aren't aluminium rooks335, I bought originals from the local stealership, hate going into a fasteners suppliers for 2 bolts and nuts! Wouldn't have worked out much cheaper.

P No 32106773068 ASA-BOLT Qty 2 $24.64
P No 31356757707 Hex nut Qty 2 $12.30
Torque is 56 Nm + 90 degrees.

Was a bit of an arse getting the nut on the mount nearest the steering column, but not impossible.

Cheers, badmanners.

The fastener is a M10 x 70mm 10.9

If the fastener was steel the proof load would be 82Nm plus TTY to obtain plastic deformation.

Without having any technical knowledge BMW designates "ASA" for even the most ignorant.

[badmanners]

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

The fastener is a M10 x 70mm 10.9

If the fastener was steel the proof load would be 82Nm plus TTY to obtain plastic deformation.

Without having any technical knowledge BMW designates "ASA" for even the most ignorant.

Hi Ken;






Cheers, badmanners.

[Coupes33]

Cleaned the carbon out of the intake ports on the replacement motor today. I did it the manual method using throttle body cleaner, etc. The finish isn't as good as the walnut blasting but it is cheaper and fairly successful.

[Ken Oath]

Originally Posted by badmanners

Hi Ken;






Cheers, badmanners.

Yes, without reading the fastener head markings it is an ASA.

[badmanners]

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

Yes, without reading the fastener head markings it is an ASA.

I did some googling and came up with nothing definite as per the meaning of ASA. The only thing I found was that the first "A" might refer to "Ausen" or the German word for outside. As in it's an external torx bolt.

Clearly the bolts are steel and I will follow the stated torque spec.

Cheers, badmanners.

[BSG335]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Cleaned the carbon out of the intake ports on the replacement motor today. I did it the manual method using throttle body cleaner, etc. The finish isn't as good as the walnut blasting but it is cheaper and fairly successful.

So, wire brush and throttle body cleaner? It would have taken you a while to get it all cleaned up? What's the method to stop the cleaning fluid and dirt entering the chamber?

Looks like a very big difference

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by BSG335

So, wire brush and throttle body cleaner? It would have taken you a while to get it all cleaned up? What's the method to stop the cleaning fluid and dirt entering the chamber?

Looks like a very big difference

The tools I use were 1 can of SCA Throttle Body & Carby Cleaner from Supercheap, 2 gun barrel brushes, a syringe from Supercheap, an old tooth brush, a couple of small paint brushes, 3 pieces of wire with the ends flattened and bent at different angles, some hose and a vacuum cleaner. Working through the firing order 153624, I close the inlet valves. Then for each cylinder, I fill each valve chamber with the cleaner and leave it for 20mins or longer. In the meantime, I use the gun brushes and tooth brush to remove the carbon build up in the chamber. Then I use the syringe and hose to suck the cleaner out. Then I use the vacuum cleaner to suck up what remains. I use the wire and paint brushes to loosen the final bits around the valve with the use of some cleaner. You have to repeat this process a few times. Good ventilation is required as the fumes from the cleaner is fairly strong.

[BSG335]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

The tools I use were 1 can of SCA Throttle Body & Carby Cleaner from Supercheap, 2 gun barrel brushes, a syringe from Supercheap, an old tooth brush, a couple of small paint brushes, 3 pieces of wire with the ends flattened and bent at different angles, some hose and a vacuum cleaner. Working through the firing order 153624, I close the inlet valves. Then for each cylinder, I fill each valve chamber with the cleaner and leave it for 20mins or longer. In the meantime, I use the gun brushes and tooth brush to remove the carbon build up in the chamber. Then I use the syringe and hose to suck the cleaner out. Then I use the vacuum cleaner to suck up what remains. I use the wire and paint brushes to loosen the final bits around the valve with the use of some cleaner. You have to repeat this process a few times. Good ventilation is required as the fumes from the cleaner is fairly strong.

That seems very involved! But easier I guess as you are working with the engine out rather than contorting yourself to work with the engine in place.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by BSG335

That seems very involved! But easier I guess as you are working with the engine out rather than contorting yourself to work with the engine in place.

Certainly, the walnut blasting is easier if you have a machine or access to one. Using this method, I cleaned the intake ports on the old engine that I have just removed while it was in the car. After 10,000kms, there is some carbon beginning to form on the valves.

[rooks335]

Used the same manual method too to clean my valves. Interesting that build up formed after 10,000km, didnt take long.
Wonder if catch can and rb pcv valve is installed on your 335i?

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by rooks335

Used the same manual method too to clean my valves. Interesting that build up formed after 10,000km, didnt take long.
Wonder if catch can and rb pcv valve is installed on your 335i?

No catch can but I do run a rb pcv valve and Fuel-it PI.

[rev210]

Looks like its valve clean season. I did mine in a similar way . Although , I did mine while fixing a -6AN right angle swivel fitting that was leaking on the Motiv PI fuel rail. It was the return fitting, looked like a generic brand. I think running E85 may have cooked it. I replaced with an Aeromotive fitting rated for alcohol with nitrile O rings (ethanol suitable) . Finally had it all together and after throwing xodes on cranking , I found I forgot to attach the crank angle sensor......son of a bitch!

[Socket]

Originally Posted by rev210

Looks like its valve clean season. I did mine in a similar way . Although , I did mine while fixing a -6AN right angle swivel fitting that was leaking on the Motiv PI fuel rail. It was the return fitting, looked like a generic brand. I think running E85 may have cooked it. I replaced with an Aeromotive fitting rated for alcohol with nitrile O rings (ethanol suitable) . Finally had it all together and after throwing xodes on cranking , I found I forgot to attach the crank angle sensor......son of a bitch!

Nice work Rev lol

[Coupes33]

Today, I started my car which has been off the road for about 3 months or more replacing the engine with a second hand one I bought off Duck. Also, I replaced the transmission with my original transmission which has been upgraded by Nizpro. Also, I changed the gearing in the diff from 3.46 to 3.25 which should allow me to rev to about 6,300rpm in 4th across the line instead of 7,000rpm. As I had the engine out, I replaced the index 10 injectors with 12's, replaced the HPFP and replaced the injectors in the PI as the one on cylinder 5 looked like it wasn't working. When I get a chance, I will get them all tested. Engine started ok with no oil or water leaks and on its maiden drive ran smooth. I will take it for a longer drive tomorrow as I have to run in the transmission for a while so that it gets adapted to my style of driving. I reinstalled xHP and the stage 3 tune in the transmission.

[Twinkie93]

So as I don't to try and fix my problem today I added new spark plugs, and coils, I also tested my transfer case actuator with the electric red and black thingys (sorry I forget what that's called) and it read 1 and no other numbers which from the site I was on says it's not duality so now back to the drawing board. 😪

[Brule]

Originally Posted by Coupes33

Today, I started my car which has been off the road for about 3 months or more replacing the engine with a second hand one I bought off Duck. Also, I replaced the transmission with my original transmission which has been upgraded by Nizpro. Also, I changed the gearing in the diff from 3.46 to 3.25 which should allow me to rev to about 6,300rpm in 4th across the line instead of 7,000rpm. As I had the engine out, I replaced the index 10 injectors with 12's, replaced the HPFP and replaced the injectors in the PI as the one on cylinder 5 looked like it wasn't working. When I get a chance, I will get them all tested. Engine started ok with no oil or water leaks and on its maiden drive ran smooth. I will take it for a longer drive tomorrow as I have to run in the transmission for a while so that it gets adapted to my style of driving. I reinstalled xHP and the stage 3 tune in the transmission.

Nice.
Hope to see the new drag times soon.