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      05-22-2019, 09:15 AM   #1
ekuLUKEkul
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e91 325d n57 engine, idle problems

Hi all, I have posted something about this before but sadly never got anywhere with it. The problem did die down since last time but seems to be back.

So when starting the car if it has been stood more than 6-8 hours or so, the revs will sit at 600rpm for a few seconds and then start jumping around between 500-1000 and the car will feel shaky. When driving for a few minutes in d it seems to be struggling, I will leave my estate which involves a lot of 2nd gear 10-15mph driving with stops for around a minute or so, when driving the car feels like it's jerking slightly occasionally and when stopping the revs will jump all over, it also takes quite a firm press of the accelerator to get the car to react when going from a stop.

Once out I can accelerator to 30mph for normal town driving (stop starts etc) first few streets it will hold gear like mad but seems to drive okay, as soon as I let go of the accelerator the revs drop to 600rpm immediately, as if it's put itself in neutral, but still accelerate fine when I need to go and then after a few streets it drives fine.

Today however the accelerator didn't seem to react at all, I was stuck in the middle of the road for 5-10 seconds as the revs would jump and the car would roll like it should with no brake pressed in d but it would not accelerate, I eventually got it moving but once it did and I stopped at a main road I put it in m1 just to be sure.

I did get it scanned to no avail a few months back and was advised to make sure I'm not using supermarket fuel as I sometimes would. Which I stopped and that did seem to help however the problem seems to be back.

Sorry for the long post! But if anyone has had anything like this I could use some help as most threads suggest so many different things!
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      05-22-2019, 09:44 AM   #2
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What was used to scan the car? This seems very much like there should be a code for something....

Reading through this a number of things popped into my head such as a faulty MAF sensor (erratic idle) or sticky EGR/Swirl flaps (Jerky acceleration) or even a gearbox service (holding gear). Whilst all of these are valid things to check (I think), I can't help but wonder if you have a dodgy accelerator pedal as these are fly by wire and have no direct connection to a throttle body and when they are failing can produce symptoms similar to to yours. Worth a check!
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      05-22-2019, 09:55 AM   #3
ekuLUKEkul
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Cheers for the reply!

I am not sure what was used for the scan as I left it with a garage I normally use. He kept it over night and said the car did not replicate the problems on the morning and when scanned he couldn't find anything, this doesn't happen every morning so I was not surprised when he said it didn't happen for him however I was surprised by the lack of codes...

I have heard about the MAF sensor so I may start there, the gearbox seems faultless tbh, the revs being held isn't anything particularly bad it just seems to revs a little more before upshifting when cold however it doesn't seem to be a problem.

Good point about the accelerator, just confuses me as to why this would only seem to be present when cold.

Main noticeable issues i find is, the revs jumping on a cold start and the occasional hesitation with gentle acceleration or accelerating from a stop when cold. The zero response at all that I mentioned in my first post is the first time it has been that bad. It does seem to be fine now though...
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      05-22-2019, 10:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekuLUKEkul View Post
Cheers for the reply!

I am not sure what was used for the scan as I left it with a garage I normally use. He kept it over night and said the car did not replicate the problems on the morning and when scanned he couldn't find anything, this doesn't happen every morning so I was not surprised when he said it didn't happen for him however I was surprised by the lack of codes...

I have heard about the MAF sensor so I may start there, the gearbox seems faultless tbh, the revs being held isn't anything particularly bad it just seems to revs a little more before upshifting when cold however it doesn't seem to be a problem.

Good point about the accelerator, just confuses me as to why this would only seem to be present when cold.

Main noticeable issues i find is, the revs jumping on a cold start and the occasional hesitation with gentle acceleration or accelerating from a stop when cold. The zero response at all that I mentioned in my first post is the first time it has been that bad. It does seem to be fine now though...
You could unplug the maf and it will run in a "fail safe" mode if that's what people call it.. basically overfuels the car but wouldn't cause any erratic idling so cant see it being that.

Only on cold start.. is the EGR valve stuck open? Remove the boost pipe from inter cooler to throttle body (this is directly connected to EGR) and you'll see on the inside the EGR valve, if let the car idle and use a light to see if smoke seeps through the valve.. can happen if it builds up with crud preventing it from sealing when closed, exhaust gasses at idle would cause a dodgy idle as well, the EGR valve will only open when certain criteria are met.

INPA would have been useful to see the expected vs actual values
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      05-23-2019, 04:58 AM   #5
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Sorry to jump in...I had the exact same problem as this with my old 320d lci manual. Garage said that there were no faults, I had a mobile mechanic come look at it whilst it was cold, turned out to be the accelerator pedal was faulty. Worked fine once new one was put in. Hope this helps.
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      05-23-2019, 05:52 AM   #6
ekuLUKEkul
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Thanks for replying. I will try unplug the maf and see where we are at. I will also try to look at the EGR.

Accelerator pedal? Did it have any other symptoms or do you know of a way of testing the pedal? How much did a new one cost you if you don't mind me asking? No problem for jumping in on the thread, thanks a lot for your input!
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      05-23-2019, 06:12 AM   #7
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First thing I would reccomend is to get it scanned for codes. Use a BMW specific software such as ISTA as this will pinpoint the exact fault/s.

The generic code readers usually give you generic codes which are not that detailed.

Plus with ISTA you can do other things like reset adaptations and look at live data.

Lead is arounf £15 and software is free. A must for all BMW owners.
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      05-23-2019, 06:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E60525d View Post
First thing I would reccomend is to get it scanned for codes. Use a BMW specific software such as ISTA as this will pinpoint the exact fault/s.

The generic code readers usually give you generic codes which are not that detailed.

Plus with ISTA you can do other things like reset adaptations and look at live data.

Lead is arounf £15 and software is free. A must for all BMW owners.
Indeed.... Or at the very least get someone nearby with Carly to give it a quick scan, that will also bring up the BMW codes.
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      05-23-2019, 10:34 AM   #9
ekuLUKEkul
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I will look into getting a lead and the software to go with, thanks guys. Another side point since we're on the subject of resetting and such.

I had my car in last June with BMW for the recall. Since getting it back both front windows will not one touch up only down. They also don't open if I hold the unlock button on the key, only the back windows and sunroof open. They were fine before it went in with BMW and I never managed to get them to sort the problem out for me. I have tried the various methods of resetting the windows posted about but none work. They seem to lock my windows up without me being able to open them for a little while before they go back to one touch open and having to hold the switch to close.

Is this possibly a setting that needs to be reset? I believe it came as they disconnect the battery for the fix but I'm not sure.
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      05-25-2019, 09:15 AM   #10
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probably they had the battery disconnected for a period of time and reset it ..
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      05-26-2019, 09:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekuLUKEkul View Post
Thanks for replying. I will try unplug the maf and see where we are at. I will also try to look at the EGR.

Accelerator pedal? Did it have any other symptoms or do you know of a way of testing the pedal? How much did a new one cost you if you don't mind me asking? No problem for jumping in on the thread, thanks a lot for your input!
Same symptoms that you have described, acceleration was all over the place when cold, car would jump around with revs almost having a mind of its own. Original garage couldn’t find any fault code. Not sure what mobile mechanic said it was coming up as but he guessed it needed a new pedal and was correct, not sure what exact sensors are built into it. Cost about £90 if remember correctly.
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      05-28-2019, 02:47 AM   #12
ekuLUKEkul
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Thanks for the info, seems to be a starting point for looking at least!
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