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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > e90 - N54 Oil Filter Housing gasket replacement (2007 335i automatic)



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      10-17-2017, 07:07 PM   #133
Sgop335
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Do this friday..

Guys, has anyone done the n54 w/o loosening the intake manifold?
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      10-18-2017, 06:42 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Do this friday..

Guys, has anyone done the n54 w/o loosening the intake manifold?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...12&postcount=6

Close as it gets.
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      10-20-2017, 02:34 PM   #135
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Took about 3.5 hrs to complete, no mishaps thats good...
2007, n54, no oil cooler
1. Removed the intake manifold nuts and moved it slightly to make room for the infamous bolt. Did not remove TB. Removed cp out of the way. Used a e10 sicket and the bolt was tight but came loose.
2. I did not drain coolant, rather used a syringe and emptied the coolant tank was about 1.5 liter.
Oil was not drained either, but like the op used a syringe to empty the housing.
3. Had to take off the coolant hose next to the second bolt. Did it carefully since have heard they break. After removal if you keep the hose high enough no coolant leaks. Gave me room to use an e10 socket. Was tight as well.
4. Almost no mess oil or coolant, when the ofh was removed. Gasket was in bad shape. Housing looked ok. Post photo.
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      12-24-2017, 06:54 PM   #136
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THANK YOU !

NGEE, Thank you very much!!!
I followed your tutorial and got my OFH seal replaced with no issue today.

Recently there was a burnt oil smell coming from the engine bay. Looked like the OFH seal was at fault and oil was slowly dripping its way to the exhaust pipe. So I decided to tackle it and your tuto HELPED ME SO MUCH!

Still not 100% sure that the burnt oil was coming from the OFH but there were clear signs of leaks around the OFH so it had to be done anyway.

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      03-20-2018, 12:00 AM   #137
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Thanks to the OP for this DIY. I just did mine today and total about 3 hours plus cleaning time.

Couple of tips:

1. Coolant hose - Refer to this video at the 5:15 mark, much easier place to remove the coolant hose and don't have to deal with extra bolts/o-rings. Of course, if you want to replace the plastic factory coolant flange then the locations from this DIY would be a good place. To minimize spoilage, I cut a plastic water bottle in half and placed in under the hose prior to removal. It caught quiet a bit of coolant.

2. The third/bottom bolt
- This is the bolt closest to the radiator fan. Can be removed without fan removal and I was able to crack it loose with a 5/16 wrench that's only about 4 inches long. Just need to position your hand and body properly to get leverage.

3. Guys with oil cooler - break loose the 3 bolts holding the oil cooler to the housing while oil filter housing is still on the car. Because once the whole unit if off, it becomes a bit more difficult to separate the cooler from the oil filter housing.
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      05-01-2018, 07:53 AM   #138
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For those with the oil cooler, did you replace the "oil cooler plugs" as well? I was looking at the kit from FCP Euro that comes with these in addition to all new bolts, just trying to decide if it's worth opening pandora's box trying to get these out.
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      05-02-2018, 12:05 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blau iii View Post
For those with the oil cooler, did you replace the "oil cooler plugs" as well? I was looking at the kit from FCP Euro that comes with these in addition to all new bolts, just trying to decide if it's worth opening pandora's box trying to get these out.
I didnít replace mine, but I didnít get the FCP kit.

Chances of causing problems if not done correctly are slim and dependent upon your mechanical and detail skills.
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      05-02-2018, 02:12 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster View Post
I didnít replace mine, but I didnít get the FCP kit.

Chances of causing problems if not done correctly are slim and dependent upon your mechanical and detail skills.
I ended up just buying all the stuff seperately, there was no savings for the kit and those plugs were $6 ea. What do they do?
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      10-31-2018, 06:49 AM   #141
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I did this job over the weekend. If you have come filters it seems much easier. I removed the cone filter closet to the ofh for more access. Took the bolts off the manifold. Pried it up just enough to gain access with 8mm wrench. Not sure how much time I saved, but I didn't touch the charge pipe, throttle body, etc
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      10-31-2018, 10:50 AM   #142
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I did this job over the weekend too.

I did take off the charge pipe and the intake manifold. I did not remove the coolant pipe that blocks socket access to the last e10 bolt under the left side of the OFH. I had read a few places that it could be corroded and break and then I would be down for a couple days waiting for a part. I used an e10 wrench to loosen it. It was a little fiddly, but not too bad.

Bad news was when I pulled the beauty cover off the engine, I found oil in the center in some of the casting holes. Time for a valve cover gasket. After reading and consulting with some Tech buddies, I decided to buy a new valve cover. Looks more time consuming than the OFHG, but not too bad.

BTW, I did an oil change at the same time and when I started it up afterwards, it threw a couple codes and went into limp mode. Primary code was 2A7C - Intake Vanos Solenoid. It took a bit of searching, but found a Tech that commented that it is not uncommon to see this after doing the OFHG. Some debris gets loose and gets into the vanos solenoid and causes the code. Solution is to pull and clean the vanos solenoid and possibly replace. I pulled and cleaned mine and it cleared up the problem.
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      10-31-2018, 12:30 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyV9 View Post
I did take off the charge pipe and the intake manifold. I did not remove the coolant pipe that blocks socket access to the last e10 bolt under the left side of the OFH. I had read a few places that it could be corroded and break and then I would be down for a couple days waiting for a part. I used an e10 wrench to loosen it. It was a little fiddly, but not too bad.

Bad news was when I pulled the beauty cover off the engine, I found oil in the center in some of the casting holes. Time for a valve cover gasket. After reading and consulting with some Tech buddies, I decided to buy a new valve cover. Looks more time consuming than the OFHG, but not too bad.

BTW, I did an oil change at the same time and when I started it up afterwards, it threw a couple codes and went into limp mode. Primary code was 2A7C - Intake Vanos Solenoid. It took a bit of searching, but found a Tech that commented that it is not uncommon to see this after doing the OFHG. Some debris gets loose and gets into the vanos solenoid and causes the code. Solution is to pull and clean the vanos solenoid and possibly replace. I pulled and cleaned mine and it cleared up the problem.
As a maintenance item I'd suggest replacing the connector gasket for that coolant pipe. Mine did disintegrate, but it all came to light while I was driving. The replacement I got is so much beefier than OEM.
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      10-31-2018, 03:44 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconey View Post
As a maintenance item I'd suggest replacing the connector gasket for that coolant pipe. Mine did disintegrate, but it all came to light while I was driving. The replacement I got is so much beefier than OEM.
Thanks, you're talking about the aluminum coolant hose flange, right? Probably a good idea to pick one up and replace the old plastic one.

Thanks!
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      11-03-2018, 03:09 PM   #145
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Any recommendations on the 8mm ratcheting wrench?
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      11-03-2018, 03:10 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconey View Post
As a maintenance item I'd suggest replacing the connector gasket for that coolant pipe. Mine did disintegrate, but it all came to light while I was driving. The replacement I got is so much beefier than OEM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyV9 View Post
Thanks, you're talking about the aluminum coolant hose flange, right? Probably a good idea to pick one up and replace the old plastic one.

Thanks!
Definitely do that. They're so cheap it's kind of silly not to.
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      02-03-2019, 11:52 AM   #147
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I did the OFHG and OCG and this guide was a lifesaver. I also replaced the Serpentine Belt because the old gaskets had leaked oil all over it.

Also a small E10 boxed end wrench made it easy to remove the lower OFHG bolt without removing the "mickey mouse" coolant line to the engine block.
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      02-03-2019, 05:06 PM   #148
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I replaced both gaskets yesterday and it went as expected by this guide, however, after a test run i realized that one of the oil coolant lines was moist. I didn't have a wrench to measure the torque (22nm), could the H-plate not be tight enough?

Additionaly, i wanted to clean a little oil that dripped over the front engine but could not reach the zone properly because of the NR 1 air duct of the following pic:



How is it removed? I mean the lower part.

Thank you!
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      04-01-2019, 12:19 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconey View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyV9 View Post
I did take off the charge pipe and the intake manifold. I did not remove the coolant pipe that blocks socket access to the last e10 bolt under the left side of the OFH. I had read a few places that it could be corroded and break and then I would be down for a couple days waiting for a part. I used an e10 wrench to loosen it. It was a little fiddly, but not too bad.

Bad news was when I pulled the beauty cover off the engine, I found oil in the center in some of the casting holes. Time for a valve cover gasket. After reading and consulting with some Tech buddies, I decided to buy a new valve cover. Looks more time consuming than the OFHG, but not too bad.

BTW, I did an oil change at the same time and when I started it up afterwards, it threw a couple codes and went into limp mode. Primary code was 2A7C - Intake Vanos Solenoid. It took a bit of searching, but found a Tech that commented that it is not uncommon to see this after doing the OFHG. Some debris gets loose and gets into the vanos solenoid and causes the code. Solution is to pull and clean the vanos solenoid and possibly replace. I pulled and cleaned mine and it cleared up the problem.
As a maintenance item I'd suggest replacing the connector gasket for that coolant pipe. Mine did disintegrate, but it all came to light while I was driving. The replacement I got is so much beefier than OEM.
Part number ?
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      06-11-2019, 05:48 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Part number ?
I think its this Part #: CRP-CHC0609, found on fcp euro. I'd post a link but I'm not sure if its allowed.
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