[iqraceworks]

Yeah....your FMIC must be in bad shape. If your IAT's are still jumping 35 degrees from a pull on a stage 1 tune.....the FMIC basically isn't doing anything at all.

As far as your LPFP goes....it will probably be fine, but it's still getting into the high 50's for psi....it should be holding 70psi. It's pretty weak....I wouldn't be doing any drag racing if it was me.

[ab987]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Yeah....your FMIC must be in bad shape. If your IAT's are still jumping 35 degrees from a pull on a stage 1 tune.....the FMIC basically isn't doing anything at all.

As far as your LPFP goes....it will probably be fine, but it's still getting into the high 50's for psi....it should be holding 70psi. It's pretty weak....I wouldn't be doing any drag racing if it was me.

Absolutely, just fun pulls every now and then. New LPFP will be going in this summer once I accumulate the funds after having bought the new intercooler. Appreciate all the help guys, I'll be back once I have the intercooler in to show off the differences. Excited about this one.

[iqraceworks]

If you are looking for a good performing FMIC at a good price, check out the G-Force ones on Amazon. That's what I'm running.....and it works great! Fit and finish was perfect, and according to the logs it works just as good as the "name brand" FMICS.......and honestly, it's probably made by the same manufacturer as many of the name brand ones.

I'm really happy with mine!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PVYYCL...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Are you actually getting any codes?

If it's leaky injectors your looking for, then you could just pull the plugs and inspect them and the injectors physically,

Attached is a basic guide for MHD Datalog analysis.

No codes, just suspicion because of very audible burbles/crackles on let off (without MHD burble ticked)

I already have the pdf but thanks, that's nice of you

Yes i probably will, but i thought that deducing from log first could be a good way to have hints and confirming bank 1 or 2, before pulling the plugs.

[ab987]

Originally Posted by studio54

No codes, just suspicion because of very audible burbles/crackles on let off (without MHD burble ticked)

I already have the pdf but thanks, that's nice of you

Yes i probably will, but i thought that deducing from log first could be a good way to have hints and confirming bank 1 or 2, before pulling the plugs.

These cars burble stock, especially 6mt ones in my experience. I thought it was injectors too, but when I got around to replacing them there was little difference. Telltale sign for injectors is long crank when sitting for a few hours, wet plugs, and oil smelling like gas. It's super quiet with stock exhaust but quickly gets very loud as you do exhaust work/go catless (it makes loud burbles on stock exhaust kinda terrifying). You can sit and feather the throttle and burble all day. There's even a stock level of burbles in MHD. Most cars seem to do it, my gf's muffler delete stock LS3 camaro burbles/pops louder than anything I've heard.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by ab987

These cars burble stock, especially 6mt ones in my experience. I thought it was injectors too, but when I got around to replacing them there was little difference. Telltale sign for injectors is long crank when sitting for a few hours, wet plugs, and oil smelling like gas. It's super quiet with stock exhaust but quickly gets very loud as you do exhaust work/go catless (it makes loud burbles on stock exhaust kinda terrifying). You can sit and feather the throttle and burble all day. There's even a stock level of burbles in MHD. Most cars seem to do it, my gf's muffler delete stock LS3 camaro burbles/pops louder than anything I've heard.

Heh yeah it's a 6MT !

Intesresting, did you have any MHD map when you noticed that ?

Because I listened to a lot straight piped N54 on Youtube (difficult to find ones without MHD burbles activated), and when videos are older than MHD release, it sounds like it's not burbling at all on let off but i didn't check if it was MT or AT.

For example :

Let's say it's stock tune, I can't hear any pops/crackle/burble.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by studio54

No codes, just suspicion because of very audible burbles/crackles on let off (without MHD burble ticked)

I already have the pdf but thanks, that's nice of you

Yes i probably will, but i thought that deducing from log first could be a good way to have hints and confirming bank 1 or 2, before pulling the plugs.

Pulling the plugs and injectors and inspecting them is the best way in my opinion.

There's injector running test or something along those lines in INPA, pretty sure ISTA has it. Haven't used it myself, but if you run a search on YouTube/Google I'm sure you'll find someone showing you how it's done.

Slight random burbles normal in my opinion, I wouldn't worry about it, unless you've confirmed injectors leaking.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Pulling the plugs and injectors and inspecting them is the best way in my opinion.

There's injector running test or something along those lines in INPA, pretty sure ISTA has it. Haven't used it myself, but if you run a search on YouTube/Google I'm sure you'll find someone showing you how it's done.

Slight random burbles normal in my opinion, I wouldn't worry about it, unless you've confirmed injectors leaking.

Ok thanks, i have INPA, i will search about.

I have to pull injector too to check? or just plugs is ok?
Over night ? or some hours ?

I recently changed my 6 plugs, the cylinder 6 had the plug thread a bit dirty and oily but all 6 plugs tips were dry, but when i changed them the car was off since 1 week, if one was wet, i should have dry i think.

[iqraceworks]

Let the car sit overnight. Pull each spark plugs out one at a time. If any of they are wet with fuel, or even smell really strong of fuel, that cylinder has a leaky injector.

The way the injectors are positioned in the cylinder, if they leak, the fuel will run down the dome of the inside of the head, and go right for the spark plugs.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by studio54

Ok thanks, i have INPA, i will search about.

I have to pull injector too to check? or just plugs is ok?
Over night ? or some hours ?

I recently changed my 6 plugs, the cylinder 6 had the plug thread a bit dirty and oily but all 6 plugs tips were dry, but when i changed them the car was off since 1 week, if one was wet, i should have dry i think.

What iqraceworks said,

I would pull injectors to check if any clogged, carbon deposits on tips etc.

Plugs should tell you if they leaking. Yeah they shouldn't be wet, if it's oily could be valve cover gasket leaking. If you smell any fuel on the plugs, then the injector is likely leaking.

[studio54]

Just a quick update: Chris from Vargas told me from logs (on another forum) that i have one injector or more leaking on bank 1, without giving other informations yet.

I suspect it could be because the ltft 2 is steady lower by 3% compared to ltft 1. LTFT 2 is probably negative offsetting to -3 (dumping/enriching more fuel to match with bank 1 that is leaking/dumping too much fuel) to make AFR follow/match. But just guessing here. Next for me is to check plugs of bank 1 to see if it's wet.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ab987

Absolutely, just fun pulls every now and then. New LPFP will be going in this summer once I accumulate the funds after having bought the new intercooler. Appreciate all the help guys, I'll be back once I have the intercooler in to show off the differences. Excited about this one.

Probably a good idea to avoid running E maps until LPFP done, saw it drop into the low 50's (approximately 53psi) at one point

Worn Plugs and/coils could also be causing timing corrections,

[ab987]

A very happy update, this will be short because I'm gonna make a post about the difficulties installing the intercooler. But I picked up a CSF intercooler yesterday, installed it this afternoon, and wow. Timing corrections were none, and temps looked good, so I went to Stage 2+ on 93. I think the results speak for themselves. Roughly the same ambient temps (mid-high 70s).

Stock, Stage 1 3-4: https://datazap.me/u/ab987/fbo-stage...0&data=3-13-20
CSF, Stage 2+ 3-4 (first pull after flashing and driving for 10-15 minutes): https://datazap.me/u/ab987/fbo-stage...0&data=3-13-20

Remember that I previously had on Stage 2 a 70 degree delta and all sorts of timing corrections. It does look like LPFP is really dying as I'm almost completely on 93 now, I filled 10 gallons of 93 into my 6 gallons left of E30. It's still dipping into the 50s and even some into the 40s! I also definitely need to do turbos again as one of them sounds like it has a defective bearing, with the intercooler off there is a serious difference in spool sound (big dissonance on cold start) versus my buddy's with known good turbos, and the usual loud turbo siren. Also finding some little shards of metal in the oil, and my blackstone report is perfect, so I could only imagine one of the bearings is slowly killing itself and the pieces are getting caught by the filter. Thank god for FCP warranty Somebody hit me two days ago so after it comes back from the body shop and insurance stuff is worked out, a Stage 2 LPFP is going in, and hopefully all of my issues will be gone. Car feels strong, thanks for the help!

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ab987

A very happy update, this will be short because I'm gonna make a post about the difficulties installing the intercooler. But I picked up a CSF intercooler yesterday, installed it this afternoon, and wow. Timing corrections were none, and temps looked good, so I went to Stage 2+ on 93. I think the results speak for themselves. Roughly the same ambient temps (mid-high 70s).

Stock, Stage 1 3-4: https://datazap.me/u/ab987/fbo-stage...0&data=3-13-20
CSF, Stage 2+ 3-4 (first pull after flashing and driving for 10-15 minutes): https://datazap.me/u/ab987/fbo-stage...0&data=3-13-20

Remember that I previously had on Stage 2 a 70 degree delta and all sorts of timing corrections. It does look like LPFP is really dying as I'm almost completely on 93 now, I filled 10 gallons of 93 into my 6 gallons left of E30. It's still dipping into the 50s and even some into the 40s! I also definitely need to do turbos again as one of them sounds like it has a defective bearing, with the intercooler off there is a serious difference in spool sound (big dissonance on cold start) versus my buddy's with known good turbos, and the usual loud turbo siren. Also finding some little shards of metal in the oil, and my blackstone report is perfect, so I could only imagine one of the bearings is slowly killing itself and the pieces are getting caught by the filter. Thank god for FCP warranty Somebody hit me two days ago so after it comes back from the body shop and insurance stuff is worked out, a Stage 2 LPFP is going in, and hopefully all of my issues will be gone. Car feels strong, thanks for the help!

Now that's what you want!

Looks much better, should be pulling very hard and consistently

Just need the LPFP sorted and it should be even better. Pump map only map (without any Ethanol) should be easier on the LPFP, so you could run that or a more Conservative one until LPFP is sorted out.

Sucks when someone hits your car, but it is what it is, at least your safe, happened to me as well, when one lemon drove in to the outside lane of a roundabout and hit my car between the 2 doors and dented them, then tried to claim I was speeding at 15-20mph when it happened 🤦

If the bearings wearing out, might be a good idea to budget for them in future.

[ab987]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Now that's what you want!

Looks much better, should be pulling very hard and consistently

Just need the LPFP sorted and it should be even better. Pump map only map (without any Ethanol) should be easier on the LPFP, so you could run that or a more Conservative one until LPFP is sorted out.

Sucks when someone hits your car, but it is what it is, at least your safe, happened to me as well, when one lemon drove in to the outside lane of a roundabout and hit my car between the 2 doors and dented them, then tried to claim I was speeding at 15-20mph when it happened 🤦

If the bearings wearing out, might be a good idea to budget for them in future.

Yep, only 93 from here on out. Hate to hear that, I hope the car lived on and nobody got hurt. And totally, I noticed it as well as some factory wastegate rattle as soon as I finished breaking the new ones in (maybe 6k miles ago) and came to the conclusion that I don't really care as long as they are boosting well, but I don't trust the windage tray enough from keeping the sparkly oil away from main/rod bearings. It all comes down to the next time I'm okay without a car for a few days, sucks to do the job twice. That power bug better stop biting or I may have to do them a third time

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ab987

Yep, only 93 from here on out. Hate to hear that, I hope the car lived on and nobody got hurt. And totally, I noticed it as well as some factory wastegate rattle as soon as I finished breaking the new ones in (maybe 6k miles ago) and came to the conclusion that I don't really care as long as they are boosting well, but I don't trust the windage tray enough from keeping the sparkly oil away from main/rod bearings. It all comes down to the next time I'm okay without a car for a few days, sucks to do the job twice. That power bug better stop biting or I may have to do them a third time

It was just Bodywork damage from a slow speed collision (15-20mph) no one was hurt, so I got it sorted through insurance.

The scammers (Insurance company) bumped up my insurance on a non fault claim, lol.

Could try adjusting wastegates to see if you can remove the rattle, but if it's minor then I probably wouldn't worry about it.

When I was on a stock tune, thought I'd do stage 1 and call it a day, then I got used to the power and it wasn't enough, lol. Hard to fight the power bug, only thing that seems to stop or slow it down is your wallet lol.

[ab987]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

It was just Bodywork damage from a slow speed collision (15-20mph) no one was hurt, so I got it sorted through insurance.

The scammers (Insurance company) bumped up my insurance on a non fault claim, lol.

Could try adjusting wastegates to see if you can remove the rattle, but if it's minor then I probably wouldn't worry about it.

When I was on a stock tune, thought I'd do stage 1 and call it a day, then I got used to the power and it wasn't enough, lol. Hard to fight the power bug, only thing that seems to stop or slow it down is your wallet lol.

Yep, same here, maybe 15-20mph but of course the damage is all to my front right quarter and bumper, and they are plastic so they have to be replaced. Headlight turn signal warning is on the dash too even though all of the headlight functions work, so I hope it doesn't put us close to totaling the car. Never know with insurance, my dad got hit in a drive thru last year and the dude hopped the curb and ran, he had it all on dash cam, the place got it on camera and he had a witness, and the insurance company claimed the guy was door dashing and wasn't covered so my dad's insurance company had to foot the bill. Of course his rates went up and all that, all because somebody hit him in a drive through and ran.

Yeah I'm not overly worried about the rattle, my factory set was adjusted at some point before I had the car and the lag was incredible, we're talking 2-3 seconds and 1000+ rpm to hit stock 6psi. Not doing that again.

The thing I hate about the power bug is the car is fast enough that it humbles me sometimes and I think, "wow, I don't need any more power. This thing could easily kill me, it's ridiculously fast." Then I do 2 or 3 more pulls and think, "that's it?" I get blown away more than disappointed now so I think I'm getting close? Maybe a custom e85/flex tune once I get fueling worked out will finally make me perfectly happy.

[Dr777]

hello i have 2 logs i would like examined just to make sure everything is good
i have a 135i n54 FBO (catless downpipes, DCI, 7.5 FMIC, 3in VRSF catback, exhaust stage 2+ mhd, 2 step colder spark plugs, and inlets) on stock turbos (7.5 is overkill ik lol) i did 2 runs one on 93 oct and another on e50 i replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 450 on the ethanol run and spark plugs are gapped to .020 Thanks

93 oct:https://datazap.me/u/dr777/stage-2-9...og=0&data=3-22
e50:https://datazap.me/u/dr777/stage-2-e50?log=0&data=3-22

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by ab987

Yep, same here, maybe 15-20mph but of course the damage is all to my front right quarter and bumper, and they are plastic so they have to be replaced. Headlight turn signal warning is on the dash too even though all of the headlight functions work, so I hope it doesn't put us close to totaling the car. Never know with insurance, my dad got hit in a drive thru last year and the dude hopped the curb and ran, he had it all on dash cam, the place got it on camera and he had a witness, and the insurance company claimed the guy was door dashing and wasn't covered so my dad's insurance company had to foot the bill. Of course his rates went up and all that, all because somebody hit him in a drive through and ran.

Yeah I'm not overly worried about the rattle, my factory set was adjusted at some point before I had the car and the lag was incredible, we're talking 2-3 seconds and 1000+ rpm to hit stock 6psi. Not doing that again.

The thing I hate about the power bug is the car is fast enough that it humbles me sometimes and I think, "wow, I don't need any more power. This thing could easily kill me, it's ridiculously fast." Then I do 2 or 3 more pulls and think, "that's it?" I get blown away more than disappointed now so I think I'm getting close? Maybe a custom e85/flex tune once I get fueling worked out will finally make me perfectly happy.

Yeah Insurance is basically a legal scam business, they don't care whose fault it is and will bump up the insurance premium of victims. Unfortunately not much we can do about it.

2-3 secs lag is infuriating, I wouldn't be able to stand it either lol.

Yeah there's got to be a point where your satisfied with the power/torque.

Anything around 400whp+ is more than enough in my opinion. Stage 2+ OTS E85 maps should easily do more than that.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Dr777

hello i have 2 logs i would like examined just to make sure everything is good
i have a 135i n54 FBO (catless downpipes, DCI, 7.5 FMIC, 3in VRSF catback, exhaust stage 2+ mhd, 2 step colder spark plugs, and inlets) on stock turbos (7.5 is overkill ik lol) i did 2 runs one on 93 oct and another on e50 i replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 450 on the ethanol run and spark plugs are gapped to .020 Thanks

93 oct:https://datazap.me/u/dr777/stage-2-9...og=0&data=3-22
e50:https://datazap.me/u/dr777/stage-2-e50?log=0&data=3-22

Something isn't right here, you have multiple timing corrections, which could be your coil packs,

but more importantly Check your O2 sensors, Bank 2 AFR and STFT reading 0!

[Dr777]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Something isn't right here, you have multiple timing corrections, which could be your coil packs,

but more importantly Check your O2 sensors, Bank 2 AFR and STFT reading 0!

thanks for letting me know. yeah i do have a code for one of the o2 sensors but it said it was for the heating circuit i havent gotten around to changing it. looks like i need to change that and my coil packs

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Dr777

thanks for letting me know. yeah i do have a code for one of the o2 sensors but it said it was for the heating circuit i havent gotten around to changing it. looks like i need to change that and my coil packs

No worries, sort the O2 issues out, then relog, you may not need to do the coils yet.

Have you changed the Coils, the last time they were changed?