[KnatteFIN]

Hi!

So here's the tale:
Two weeks ago i removed the swirl flaps from the intake and installed blanking plates with new gaskets, previously my intake manifold was "leaking" diesel all over my engine. Not too bad though. 1 week later i decided to clean my engine / engine bay just to get rid of the diesel oil smell. Sprayed some "brake dissolvent" on the worst areas then flushed it immidieatly with some water from a tap hose. Then i sprayed some Autoglym Engine Wash in there and let it sit for a while, then i flushed it again with water. I did'nt use pressurised water just a hose to firmly clean away the oil. I waited 1 hour in a warm garage for the engine to dry. I also dried it up a bit with an air gun.
When i was done i fired the engine up, no problems fired up like it allways done. Drove out from the garage and let it stay on idle for a few minutes at the parking lot. Then i drove home approx. 60 km, the temperature outside was -3 C . Then i got home and went inside for an hour and came out again, sat in my car and tried to start the engine. Engine cranks but wont start.
Gave it a couple more tries, then realized it's dead. A couple of days later tried to start the engine with a new battery, No success. At the same day i disconnected all the electrical connectors i could find on top of the engine and cleaned them with WD-40 . And also changed the air filter to the engine.

I've read quite alot what could be wrong, but now i'm clueless?
I've ordered a diagnostic cable with BMW INPA etc. but will take a week before it arrives and i need my car for work.

If someone could point me in the right direction it would be highly apprecieated?

Have a pleasent day =)

[KnatteFIN]

UPDATE:

Got my hands on a cheap bluetooth code reader, were able to get some codes:

P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input

P0237 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor 'A' Circuit Low

P2620 Throttle position , output signal - open circuit

Error codes coming and going, but mainly P0237

Continuing investigating...

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

P2620 Throttle position

...would make me concerned.
Is the throttle closed and so the engine does not get air?

[KnatteFIN]

Originally Posted by whiteblue

P2620 Throttle position

...would make me concerned.
Is the throttle closed and so the engine does not get air?

Thanks for your reply.

I've checked the throttle body and it does move, actually very good because i cleaned it at the same time when i installed blanking plates at the intake manifold. When the ignition is off it moves good, when ignition is on it pulls it hard so you can't really move it with your fingers from the spring at the side, i'm guessing that's properly functioning.

Any ideas?

[KnatteFIN]

UPDATE:

Today i've tested the fuel pump under the back seat, ran cables straight from the battery with a fuse on the cable. Tried to "prime" the fuel rail with pump on for awhile. Then tried to start the engine with the pump going and without.
Have also checked all the fuses in junction box and all are fine.

Nevertheless no sign of starting.

Kind of loosing it here, would really love some help? Anyone?

[KnatteFIN]

UPDATE:

So today i've diagnosed that the problem is with my throttle body, at ignition it pulls the body a few millimeters from totally closed position.

Can someone confirm how the body should work, to my knowledge it should pull it fully open when ignition is turned on. Atleast while cranking it should be fully open, am i correct? It should be closed only if you turn the engine off or while DPF regen occurs?

Does the throttle body listen to some kind of sensor while starting determining the actual angle it should open to?

The cost for a new one is approx. 450e would not like to buy a new one before im 100% certain that the fault is there.

Thanks for you interest, hope you have a pleasent day.

[KnatteFIN]

Aaarghh... nevermind it defaults to open. continuing..

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

I feel your pain. To my knowledge the throttle is only used to shut off the engine. So it should be fully open when ignition is on. Try to mechanically block it in the open position.
I'm not familiar with all that error code shit. I always used to repair my car by using logical reasoning.
What could it mean saying "Throttle position , output signal - open circuit"
Does open circuit stand for lost connection? This would make sense according to your washing procedure.

If it's not due to the throttle I would suspect the crank shaft sensor.

A diesel engine always runs as long it gets air and fuel (at the right time).
So either the throttle blocks off air or the injectors don't know when exactly it's time to inject or there's no pressure in the rail at all.

Hope you can sort it out. All the best!

[KnatteFIN]

Originally Posted by whiteblue

I feel your pain. To my knowledge the throttle is only used to shut off the engine. So it should be fully open when ignition is on. Try to mechanically block it in the open position.
I'm not familiar with all that error code shit. I always used to repair my car by using logical reasoning.
What could it mean saying "Throttle position , output signal - open circuit"
Does open circuit stand for lost connection? This would make sense according to your washing procedure.

If it's not due to the throttle I would suspect the crank shaft sensor.

A diesel engine always runs as long it gets air and fuel (at the right time).
So either the throttle blocks off air or the injectors don't know when exactly it's time to inject or there's no pressure in the rail at all.

Hope you can sort it out. All the best!

The throttle body is "open" when the ignition is turned on, i thought at first the spring would pull it to "close" position while ignition is off but it does the opposite. So the throttle body remains open when trying to crank the engine.

As for the crankshaft sensor that's my main concern at the moment. I've disconnected all the sensors i can see when i open the bonnet including on top of the intake manifold. I've checked the fuses at the ECU and the glovebox, including DDE relay and every one is fine.

I've got a feeling that i have armed the immobiliser now too. At first the engine would "promise" while cranking, like the rev counter would reach 700rpm at times, then fall back to 200rpm. It really sounded like it would start any time but then the battery died and it has'nt "promised" after that, and the revs are really low while cranking like the rev counter barely moves. You can still hear the engine cranking at a higher frequency that the rev counter is displaying, so the fault is not at the starter or battery for sure.

I'm starting to think it's the crankshaft sensor as well, is there any way to diagnose the sensor with INPA? Or any diagnostics i should run when i get the cable and software? Never used INPA before but pretty guru with computers and electronics, so if someone have any tips of where i should start that would be awesome?

As always thanks for your answer, really appreciated =)

[Nissan200s]

Hi guys

I know it is years later , but did you ever get the problem sorted on your BMW?

I have a 320d E90 that someone washed the engine and it also won't start after a 50 kilometer drive.

Showing error code on the control unit