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Pin assignments at plug connector X14272
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05-10-2020, 03:35 PM | #1 |
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Pin assignments at plug connector X14272
I’m doing another non I-Drive to CIC retrofit.
All the spots on the x14272 where the pins from the CID are supposed to go are taken: 1 or 37 for + 27 for ground 11 for High Can 30 for Low Can Are there other spots where the pins can go into the x14272 connector or I will have to tap into the harness itself. |
05-10-2020, 09:18 PM | #2 |
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There might be other spots however i think you can just tap in at that point if you cant find any spares. Curious though; If the CIC wiring diagram says that goes on that connector then whats taking its spot ?
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05-10-2020, 09:43 PM | #3 |
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I have pulled a few CID wiring harnesses out of parts cars. Many times the wires from the screen go to wire nuts where multiple wires connect together. This is almost always true for the can wiring. To get to these junction points you need to un-tape the harness while the dash is out. I did this on my first retrofit but I won't do it again. Just access the power. ground and can at the cic quadlock connector. That is what most people do. Accessing it that way also simplifies the controller wiring. Finding and wiring the controller power connector by the driver's feet is a lot of work.
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05-10-2020, 09:44 PM | #4 |
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I don’t have the complete pin out on this connector. There are some available spots. If I have the pin out the wires I have from CID can go there, hypothetically.
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05-10-2020, 09:47 PM | #5 |
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If I should be honest. I ended up tapping the wires for my car as there were no other space to put it. Though it works well for my car the CIC does recognize a k-line fault that stays on but doesn't seem to cause anything to go crazy. I utilize a Emulator for Nav/Speech Activation so there's that too.
I do remember reading awhile back that the cars that had iDrive from Factory had a different Junction Box and JBE than that of a non-drive vehicle. You may have to tap.
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05-10-2020, 10:00 PM | #7 | |
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I am curious now.
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05-10-2020, 10:09 PM | #8 | |
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05-10-2020, 10:37 PM | #9 | |
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05-10-2020, 10:40 PM | #10 | |
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05-10-2020, 10:43 PM | #11 | |
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05-11-2020, 02:07 AM | #12 |
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i will advise you to do as smass did
but if you want to knew truth then you to have too look scheme for fuse, and they can have splice points locations on drawings like that https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-320d-tou/RIjYQPu X436 is Fuse 61 factory tap/splice point. The factory wiring have many splice/tap points which are covered with additional tape and plastic cover. If you do retrofit according EBA the EBA will specify splice point location or (if that will require too much disassembly) will contain cables, connectors and pins to cut and extend wiring before quadlock connector (that was in a factory Bluetooth wiring retrofit). Another good place to tap for headunit is special headunit connector in drivers footwell under carpet. I.e. factory wiring to headunit goes from fuse/junction box to driver footwell, and via connector then goes back near drivers seat to the central tunnel and headunit location.
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05-11-2020, 08:22 AM | #13 | |
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05-14-2020, 12:24 PM | #14 | |
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wiring have colors assigned to distinguish them without removal
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05-22-2020, 05:13 PM | #16 |
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05-23-2020, 06:47 PM | #18 |
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05-23-2020, 08:17 PM | #19 |
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The alternative for that one is pin 3 of x9331 located in the driver’s side footwell. That is the one I used for my 2006 retrofit.
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05-23-2020, 08:31 PM | #20 |
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Yes, I figured it out after taking everything a part. Now I need to do some coding and get aluminum center trim for CIC I-Drive controller. I can’t find it used so wil order new. Is expensive, about $200. I’m also going to add CarPlay box on this car because is automatic and will be my daily while I’m trying to sell it
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05-23-2020, 11:30 PM | #22 | |
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