[DjayAlex]

Hey guys.

I've got a 2007 E90 BMW 320D SE manual with the M47 Engine. Loved it for the last 6 months after having a 118d with the same engine.

So about 2 weeks ago I went shopping, was out of the car for about 30-45 minutes and randomly my car wouldn't start. Owned the car over 6 months and it has never skipped a beat.

Managed to get some of the staff from the shop to push me and the car bumped at a very low speed, much to the suprise of one of the staff who said it would be impossible to push start a diesel.

Assumed it was a battery issue so after getting home, a 50 mile run, turned the car of and went to start it and again nothing.

Done a bit of online research and checked the relays recharged the battery, my dad is experienced with cars so he thought it may be a ground issue so added an extra ground, still nothing so narrowed it down to being a starter issue. Money's tight at the moment so ordered one from eBay, same part number, installed and still the car won't start, it makes a noise like the starter is engaging (did the same with the previous starter so still in the same position) checked all fuses again just to make sure and still won't start.

Does anyone have an idea? I need to use the car most days and I'm having to make sure I park on a hill or have someone willing to push me.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Chapperss]

It`s your battery or Alternator.

Google how to check this - it`s a simple procedure using a volt meter. Same with any car.

First port of call is charge the battery - then run the tests on the vid you find on you tube.

They`ll explain what all the different voltages mean at different stages - then you`ll know if it`s a new battery or a new alternator.

It really could be either or, if you cant find a good vid, post back and i`ll search one up for you. You will need a volt meter unless you want to take a punt.

Additionally, i`ve done similar to your dad and changed a starter when it was the battery (on my mums car) - should have just got the volt meter out................. Live and learn ehhh

[dave330]

i once had a similar problem with a Citroen i had car started normally i drove to the shops and when i cam back the car was dead had to call the AA and the battery was completely dead and needed replacing ,never had a battery do that before but it can happen.

[0l0dom0l0]

First thing to replace is the battery.

[DjayAlex]

I've tried new battery on it and I drove it to Gatwick and back from South Wales after starting it down the hill, if it was the alternator would it drained the battery seeing as that was a 300 mile round trip?

And yes it was a nightmare not being able to turn the car off, had to leave it running outside the garage in the service station when I needed a quick toilet break

[DjayAlex]

And to top it off when I put the car back together after replacing the starter, reconnected the battery the car popped up with a lighting systems not working which after so digging seems to be a common issue of the frm module going down

[TriumphTiger]

If the new battery is not holding the charge that would normally be down to a big drain (some electrical component failing) or down to the alternator needing replacing.

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by TriumphTiger

If the new battery is not holding the charge that would normally be down to a big drain (some electrical component failing) or down to the alternator needing replacing.

If only someone had suggested how he could test this.....

[DjayAlex]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

If only someone had suggested how he could test this.....

I don't think it's either, car would drain the battery after driving 20-30 miles.

I've ordered a new engine ground strap to see if that fixes the issue.

Will update when I've tried it. My assumption is the ground I've added isn't sufficient enough, all I had was a cheap jump lead to hand.

[DjayAlex]

Originally Posted by TriumphTiger

If the new battery is not holding the charge that would normally be down to a big drain (some electrical component failing) or down to the alternator needing replacing.

The battery is holding the charge, that's the confusing thing.

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by DjayAlex

I don't think it's either, car would drain the battery after driving 20-30 miles.

I've ordered a new engine ground strap to see if that fixes the issue.

Will update when I've tried it. My assumption is the ground I've added isn't sufficient enough, all I had was a cheap jump lead to hand.

Alright pal - good luck to ya.

[mauroaviles]

check starter motor, battery check if the positive pole in getting hot and the alternator.
Good luck

[DjayAlex]

Put new ground strap on, wasn't too much of a job but didn't fix the issue.

Does anyone think it could be with the ignition button?

[Chappers 71]

Firstly I'd check the battery voltage via the hidden menu, I believe whilst engine running battery voltage should be 14.8v & 12.1 with engine off

[MrSweet1991]

I'm going to also chime on covering some of what's already been said. Get some figures of the alternator and battery first, use the secret menu to view the voltage from your dash and see what the voltage of the battery is, then see what the voltage is when the car is started. Do this a few times to make sure the alternator consistently outputs 14v+ as I once had an issue where my alternator worked only now and again.

Assuming your alternator and your battery appear to be fine does your car have the recall for the B+ cable?

You mentioned you had a lot of warning lights, that happens on all our cars when the voltage gets too low (DSC, Transmission etc)

When you changed the battery was it of the exact same Ah and type (Acid or AGM) if the type of battery was changed then it would be knackered because our cars have to be coded to know how to charge it, furthermore if you had a higher Ah battery originally and installed a Lower one the car would overcharge, and last but not least even if you changed the battery for same type and same Ah but didn't tell the car it was changed, it would still charge the battery incorrectly as BMW's alter the charging based on the batterys age.

Check YouTube for B+ cable recall and have a look at yours, check under battery to see the condition of your positive battery connection, it's not uncommon for water to get into the battery compartment and rust the connection from there.

I'll have a think of some other things, here's a couple of videos I took when I had a power issue.

[DjayAlex]

So I've just done the test with the onboard computer and it's at 12.4 with ignition off and 13.7-13.9 when engine is running

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by DjayAlex

So I've just done the test with the onboard computer and it's at 12.4 with ignition off and 13.7-13.9 when engine is running

Okay, can you run through again what exactly happens when the car won't start. Has the car ever died or shown faults while driving? If you come back to the car on random occasions and it doesn't start can you explain what happens, does it crank over at all? Does it click and dim the dash lights when you press the start button, does nothing show at all?

[DjayAlex]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Okay, can you run through again what exactly happens when the car won't start. Has the car ever died or shown faults while driving? If you come back to the car on random occasions and it doesn't start can you explain what happens, does it crank over at all? Does it click and dim the dash lights when you press the start button, does nothing show at all?

So i thought it would be easier to show you so I've added them to YouTube.

First is me trying to start it up took the videos after about 10 attempts to start hence the below 12v however this is a new battery and has been registered to the car.
https://youtu.be/MX4arrfV5ak

Second video is after I've started it rolling it down a hill/bump starting it

https://youtu.be/DZCsZ2PjQ7U

Not used to posting on forums so don't know if these links will wor
TIA

Alex

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by DjayAlex

So i thought it would be easier to show you so I've added them to YouTube.

First is me trying to start it up took the videos after about 10 attempts to start hence the below 12v however this is a new battery and has been registered to the car.
https://youtu.be/MX4arrfV5ak

Second video is after I've started it rolling it down a hill/bump starting it

https://youtu.be/DZCsZ2PjQ7U

Not used to posting on forums so don't know if these links will wor
TIA

Alex

That's interesting, before it dropped below 12v does it still do that odd sound like the starter motor is stuck or does it actually crank? See, if the car is that low that it can't crank your dash lights should be dimming/going completely out followed by warning lights.

[Daviebrown]

You got a starter from ebay, was it a used one because it sounds knackered.

[DjayAlex]

Originally Posted by Daviebrown

You got a starter from ebay, was it a used one because it sounds knackered.

Hi,

Was a used one but tested prior to installation. This is the same noise as the previous starter was making.

You can really hear from the video but there's definitely a longer noise from the starter motor turning

[DjayAlex]

So just an update guys,

New starter, alternator and battery installed, battery registered to car and replaced glow plugs. Managed to get a used footwell module coded to the car so everything should be working as normal. That is apart from the car still not starting.

Anyone have any idea what this could be?

Voltage when car is off is 12.7v and when it's running it goes between 14.0 and 14.1. strangely when I plug in a Bluetooth OBD2 reader and run a diagnostics check, the voltage goes up to about 14.6 then when I stop scanning drops to 14.01 max

I've checked all the connections to and from all parts of the car, all are connected with no signs of corrosion.

The only thing I have noticed is with the red module on the battery.

If I open one of the flaps on it, there is a plate of thin metal that seems to have a slight tear in it. Surely this wouldn't have an effect on the car starting?

I've also ordered a new black relay for in the dashboard fuse box just to rule that out, see quite a few people on YouTube change this and their car is revived.

Unfortunately due to my haste, when I installed the new alternator I didn't sit the bet correctly on all pulleys so that has worn a bit, just waiting for my local motor factors get the power steering belt in stock as may as well change that at the same time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated