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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Shaking front end at high speeds - Changed almost everything
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04-29-2020, 06:44 PM | #45 |
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We had a shop G20 330i that had a tire vibration since day 1. The dealer took care of it and balanced the tires 3 separate times and yet the vibration is still there. We narrowed it down to the tires since we installed similar tires on two other customer cars and both of them complain about the same issue. Tire manufacturer won't stand behind it kept pointing fingers.
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04-29-2020, 09:15 PM | #46 | |
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Also any strange humming noises while cruising at highway speed? Lastly replace the top hats if they are blown. |
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06-04-2020, 05:08 PM | #47 |
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Hi everyone. I recently changed both strut mounts, tie rods, double checked my alignment, and borrowed a friends wheels. The shaking still exists. The strut mounts made a huge difference in with the vibration I was having on idle and the tie rods made the steering feel a bit firmer, but the shaking still exists.
I have literally rebuilt my whole front end, minus my steering rack. New wheels, new tires, road force balanced 3x, new tie rods, new rotors/pads, new upper and lower control arms, new struts and shocks, new strut mounts, new end links. I have looked over the steering rack and subframe bolts several times. This car sucks so bad. |
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06-04-2020, 05:37 PM | #48 | |
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06-04-2020, 07:59 PM | #49 |
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06-07-2020, 09:56 AM | #50 | |
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If you are feeling vibration at idle (while not moving), it is your engine / transmission mounts. |
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07-09-2020, 04:31 PM | #51 |
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I've read this entire post, and I have a fair amount of experience chasing down vibrations on BMWs. I'd be willing to bet you have bad wheel bearing(s) and/or a bent hub. Runner up would be build up behind the rotor. Have the runout checked or replace the bearings. If this doesn't work set the car on fire, walk away and never look back.
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07-16-2020, 03:08 PM | #52 |
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Hey guys, I changed both wheel bearings, replaced upper control arms again and there has been no change. The shimmy is always there but the intensity of the shimmy changes constantly - sometimes worse than others. To date, I have replaced my upper and lower control arms with m3, new tie rods assembly, new PS fluid, new wheels all around, new tires, road forced balanced each, new shocks, struts, and oem strut mounts, tried a friends wheels too. The strut mounts were pretty blown and new ones eliminated all vibration I had at idle.
I have quadruple checked the steering rack bolts, they are properly torqued to spec. I have a weird knocking sound when moving my steering wheel and letting go, it sounds like its coming from the steering column or the very top of the steering shaft that connects to the steering column. I believe I have play somewhere in these parts and that is what causes the shimmy at high speeds. I am going to check sometimes in the next few days (pretty busy atm), has anyone heard of these parts going bad and causing this? i watched 2 videos on YT that showed play in the steering column of an e90 and the sound made when adjusting the steering wheel sounds very close to mine. Here are the two videos I watched: (My sound is identical to this!) |
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07-18-2020, 07:22 PM | #53 | |
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07-24-2020, 01:39 PM | #54 | |
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The shaking persists, never has really improved a single bit. Sometimes it is not as bad, but it is always present. I am so frustrated. |
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07-24-2020, 01:56 PM | #55 | ||
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07-25-2020, 07:25 PM | #59 |
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I changed one wheel bearing. I do not have any howling sound, but heard some bearing sound when spinning passenger side so that was changed.
I noticed that the shaking is significantly worse if I accelerate quicker to high speeds. Say, if I go WOT to get to 80 mph, the shaking is significantly worse while getting to 80mph (and it continues at cruise), vs me slowly making my way to 80 mph. To reiterate, if I slowly make my way to speeds, the shaking is still there, but not as bad as if I were to accelerate quicker to get to that speed. The faster I accelerate, the more violent the shaking. There is a positive correlation between the violence of the steering wheel shake and the throttle I apply, lol. Shaking is always terrible, which has prevented me from really stepping on the car so I am just now realizing all of this. When I got my trans changed, my mechanic told me my guibo was in bad condition and that it was changed out. I don't remember seeing the cost for it on invoice, but I took his word for the replacement. The behavior of the shake makes me believe it is drive shaft related? I do not hear any banging or clicking coming from the bottom of the car when changing gears or anything like that. I do have a slight vibration on my center console arm rest but the shaking basically resonates throughout the car, especially through the steering wheel. I can see the passenger seat vibrate on the highway too. Additionally, I went on a road trip (yes with the shaking), and the shaking was present the whole trip, but there were many times where it was not as violent. I am not entirely sure, but I believe that when I was going down hill, the shaking was not as bad as it is when going up hill or on a flat surface. I was on cruise control the whole trip. I had a transparent cup in my cup holder and I could see the drink violently bounce around the whole trip, and at the times I felt the shaking/vibrations lessen through the steering wheel, it was also visible through the drink so I am 100% sure that the shaking was variating. Thank you to everyone who has taken time and replied on this thread, I really appreciate it. Last edited by 2008_335; 07-25-2020 at 07:37 PM.. |
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07-26-2020, 02:04 AM | #60 |
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Could be something on the driveshaft, for sure. Just because you feel it most through the steering wheel, doesn't necessarily mean it's coming from the steering or front wheels. The fact that you've changed so much of the front end with no significant effect on the shake, I think, means that it's not coming from the front.
I'd start with looking at the giubo and centre bearing on the driveshaft. See if there's any cracking or visible deformation on the giubo. Look for play in the centre bearing - you may need to pry it to get it to move. Check everything you can lay a hand on for play and/or perished rubber, etc. You'll get it eventually, and the victory will be sweet (and hopefully not too expensive!) |
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07-26-2020, 03:41 AM | #61 |
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I recently changed my whole driveshaft due to clunk and vibration at various speeds. Mostly felt at the middle and rear of the car. Noticed a lot of grease on heatshield near the diff, the rear part that connects the driveshaft to the diff was detoriaring. Since that part is unserviceable I used an almost new but used driveshaft and clunk and vibration are gone..
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07-26-2020, 04:49 PM | #62 | |
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09-05-2020, 05:22 AM | #64 | |
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When you changed the front struts did you reuse the pinch-bolts/nuts that tighten the shock to the hub? Those are one-time use. If reused, they can 'tighten' to torque and feel good but in reality they are messed up because you're reusing them and they will not tighten the actual strut 100% [lesson I learned the hard way and having to sawzall them off]. If this happens and they do not tighten the strut 100% they will leave a little gap and the aligning nipple on the strut will bounce around left and right. This can lead to wearing a groove into your hub and even if you replace the pinch bolt/nut the strut will still move around in the groove it will have created in the hub. I had a similar issue with an aftermarket coilover company, but their issue was that the alignment nipple was a round-head screw of a smaller diamater than OEM with a very low profile and because I took the suspension out a million times [different issue] to swap parts out to make the coilovers work, the round-head screw just messed up my hub. I then replaced those round-head screws with M3-0.5 socket cap screws from Home Depot to match OEM thickness of the alignment nipple diamater and that definitely helped with the phantom vibrations I had. I am not sure if this helps you specifically but this is the reason I do not ever take that pinch bolt out completely anymore unless I have a replacement; I just barely loosen it to get the strut out. |
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09-05-2020, 02:55 PM | #65 |
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Lol. As if taking the bolt out fully vs barely loosening it [enough to get the strut out!] makes any difference at all. If the bolt is so messed up after removal that it won't tighten/clamp properly, something else is in play; probably rust. My 140k mile original bolts are still there and going fine, despite having been removed and reinstalled at least twice...no shaking/etc. That said, of course you *should* follow BMW spec for torque and replacement.
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03-14-2021, 05:21 PM | #66 |
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Due to the pandemic I have barely driven my car. The shaking is still there. Going to start working on figuring this shaking out. It's so crazy that it has still not been resolved, even after 3 years of owning the car this thing still shakes. Crazy. I've done so much work to it, chasing this crap.
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