[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

The TSB can be found here:

https://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.p...axle-pdf.2156/

It is has "NEW" information saying the product to use is a lubricant (grease),
BMW P/N 83 23 0 443 864 , not Loctite.

This grease Part Number is replaced by

"Grease Optitemp Ht 1 Lf 832517 - BMW (83-23-0-417-754)"

https://www.bmwpartsworldwide.com/oe...17-83230417754

If I were you I would get it from a BMW dealership near by, not very expensive.

How did you separate the driveshaft from input flange?
Thanks for the grease info, very helpful

[PhaseP]

I didn't have to do this job on my car, just shared the info I found.
I had to replace my front driveshaft though on my xi. The driveshaft has some corrosion bond to the flange at the front driveshaft in my case. Gentle taps with a rubber mallet or soft faced deadblow hammer will set it free. Note the gentle here, you don't want to unbalance the driveshaft, or mar the bearing races against the bearings at the u-joint or inside the differential. If you see rust there apply some penetrating oil it may help too. The front drive shaft from what I remember had a concave dome like shape inside and the flange had a convex shape matching, memory is blurry though. This also is a reason not to do any heavy hammering, the drive shaft had to be pushed back to clear off that convex shape, I think, don't remember well. And you are dealing with rear drive shaft.

[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

I didn't have to do this job on my car, just shared the info I found.
I had to replace my front driveshaft though on my xi. The driveshaft has some corrosion bond to the flange at the front driveshaft in my case. Gentle taps with a rubber mallet or soft faced deadblow hammer will set it free. Note the gentle here, you don't want to unbalance the driveshaft, or mar the bearing races against the bearings at the u-joint or inside the differential. If you see rust there apply some penetrating oil it may help too. The front drive shaft from what I remember had a concave dome like shape inside and the flange had a convex shape matching, memory is blurry though. This also is a reason not to do any heavy hammering, the drive shaft had to be pushed back to clear off that convex shape, I think, don't remember well. And you are dealing with rear drive shaft.

I already tried using penetrating oil with a block of wood and hammer with no result. Only have 122k km and it seems like its rusted shut. I feel like i need a torch and sledge hammer but Im worried about damaging parts and imbalance the driveshaft

[PhaseP]

See this picture of the end of the rear driver shaft. It is same thing I had with the front driveshaft I had. There is that disc protrusion that goes into hole same size on the flange axially. So if you tap side ways this prevents the drive shaft to move out. You need to tap it to rotate the driveshaft while the flange is blocked. You may need to tap on the ears where the bolt holes are at that u-joint with a big screw driver and hammer (or blunt chisel). Patience, perseverance and repeated impacts win against rust

Just giving ideas from my chair and keyboard so take it with a grain of salt, but is it possible to apply some separating force with a prybar pushing the axle outwards at that holed out section visible in the picture below between two bolt hole "ears"/tabs?
Maybe apply prybar force there and hit to rotate at the same time to free it?

[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

See this picture of the end of the rear driver shaft. It is same thing I had with the front driveshaft I had. There is that disc protrusion that goes into hole same size on the flange axially. So if you tap side ways this prevents the drive shaft to move out. You need to tap it to rotate the driveshaft while the flange is blocked. You may need to tap on the ears where the bolt holes are at that u-joint with a big screw driver and hammer (or blunt chisel). Patience, perseverance and repeated impacts win against rust

Just giving ideas from my chair and keyboard so take it with a grain of salt, but is it possible to apply some separating force with a prybar pushing the axle outwards at that holed out section visible in the picture below between two bolt hole "ears"/tabs?
Maybe apply prybar force there and hit to rotate at the same time to free it?

Got it off with a prybar and persistent hammering, Thanks PhaseP
Now i need some assistance with the nut.
1) Do i remove the retaining plate first
2) 32mm socket for nut?
3) Do i need a breaker bar?

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

The TSB can be found here:

https://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.p...axle-pdf.2156/

It is has "NEW" information saying the product to use is a lubricant (grease),
BMW P/N 83 23 0 443 864 , not Loctite.

This grease Part Number is replaced by

"Grease Optitemp Ht 1 Lf 832517 - BMW (83-23-0-417-754)"

https://www.bmwpartsworldwide.com/oe...17-83230417754

If I were you I would get it from a BMW dealership near by, not very expensive.

Am I reading that correctly? The fix is to grease the input flange mating surface, and not the splines? That's what the illustration in the TSB shows, however this old original post claims the fix is to use loctite on the splines.

I too have this issue with the clicking and I want to diagnose it myself but don't feel like dropping the exhaust with just jackstands/ramps and no lift, especially with a broken hand at the moment. I'm taking it to a reputable independent BMW mechanic. I'm hoping they've seen enough of these to pinpoint the problem quickly (could be flex disc, center support bearing, u-joints, diff flange, transmission mounts, differential mounts, etc.)

[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Am I reading that correctly? The fix is to grease the input flange mating surface, and not the splines? That's what the illustration in the TSB shows, however this old original post claims the fix is to use loctite on the splines.

I too have this issue with the clicking and I want to diagnose it myself but don't feel like dropping the exhaust with just jackstands/ramps and no lift, especially with a broken hand at the moment. I'm taking it to a reputable independent BMW mechanic. I'm hoping they've seen enough of these to pinpoint the problem quickly (could be flex disc, center support bearing, u-joints, diff flange, transmission mounts, differential mounts, etc.)

The splines are located on the input flange as illustrated here:
The loctite may be overkill especially if it needs future repair so this grease should be sufficient to take up the slack. Keep us posted with your repair at BMW.

Secondly, You dont have to drop your exhaust or driveshaft. Theres enough play to pull the driveshaft from the flange.

[PhaseP]

1) Do i remove the retaining plate first

Yes, it is there for preventing the nut to get unlocked

2) 32mm socket for nut?

I don't know read the thread I think mentioned already

3) Do i need a breaker bar?

An impact gun will get it out easier, but without it I would think so. A 32 mm nut will have a good amount of tightening torque on it.

Make sure you mark the location of the nut wrt to the pinion axle on the diff. When you put it back you want to tighten the nut back up to exact same position. The amount of tightening of the nut effects the position of the pinion inside the differential with respect to the wheel gear, which is important. It is put together accurately in the factory. It also effect the amount of preloading the pinion bearings have, which is also important for them not to fail prematurely. So you do want to tighten the nut exactly back to the same number of turns. So mark its location before taking it out.

You may want to apply the e-brake as tight as possible to lock the rear wheels and so the differential while working on that nut. If that is not enough someone may have to press the brake pedal.

[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

1) Do i remove the retaining plate first

Yes, it is there for preventing the nut to get unlocked

2) 32mm socket for nut?

I don't know read the thread I think mentioned already

3) Do i need a breaker bar?

An impact gun will get it out easier, but without it I would think so. A 32 mm nut will have a good amount of tightening torque on it.

Make sure you mark the location of the nut wrt to the pinion axle on the diff. When you put it back you want to tighten the nut back up to exact same position. The amount of tightening of the nut effects the position of the pinion inside the differential with respect to the wheel gear, which is important. It is put together accurately in the factory. It also effect the amount of preloading the pinion bearings have, which is also important for them not to fail prematurely. So you do want to tighten the nut exactly back to the same number of turns. So mark its location before taking it out.

You may want to apply the e-brake as tight as possible to lock the rear wheels and so the differential while working on that nut. If that is not enough someone may have to press the brake pedal.

Solved. Clicking sound is gone. Thanks for the help. Ill post back after 30k km's to see if the grease is superior to the loctite. Some advice, replace the 4 driveshaft to flange bolts.
Cheers

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by HP_e92

Solved. Clicking sound is gone. Thanks for the help. Ill post back after 30k km's to see if the grease is superior to the loctite. Some advice, replace the 4 driveshaft to flange bolts.
Cheers

Which grease did you use? The BMW one? I am thinking it may need heavy grease with high Moly content to work best.

[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Which grease did you use? The BMW one? I am thinking it may need heavy grease with high Moly content to work best.

Yes the bmw one as i quoted above. You posted the bmw service bulletin and now you think it requires a different grease?lol

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by HP_e92

Yes the bmw one as i quoted above. You posted the bmw service bulletin and now you think it requires a different grease?lol

Sorry I wasn't clear, I meant the bmw grease is probably a heavy high moly content grease, in case others reading the thread and decide to use any regular grease. I was trying to say a regular grease may not last long, where as BMW one will since they chose the grease for the need.

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by HP_e92

Solved. Clicking sound is gone. Thanks for the help. Ill post back after 30k km's to see if the grease is superior to the loctite. Some advice, replace the 4 driveshaft to flange bolts.
Cheers

Hey,

any update with the grease solutions Vs Loctite in long term?

BR

[bobbytomorow]

I have a 325i 6MT and have a sound similar when I slow down into 1st or accelerate into 1st/2nd...it is especially pronounced in underground parking. However I would not describe my sound as a "click" but more like a bell or a fork hitting an empty glass bottle...like a "ting" or "clang" sound

Possible it is due to the same issue of needing locktite or lube on the shaft to diff spline?

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by bobbytomorow

I have a 325i 6MT and have a sound similar when I slow down into 1st or accelerate into 1st/2nd...it is especially pronounced in underground parking. However I would not describe my sound as a "click" but more like a bell or a fork hitting an empty glass bottle...like a "ting" or "clang" sound

Possible it is due to the same issue of needing locktite or lube on the shaft to diff spline?

If it is happening when you depress the clutch pedal down, it fits the dual mass flywheel unwinding sound, which is normal. Try depressing slowly to see if it changes.

[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by ornicar

Hey,

any update with the grease solutions Vs Loctite in long term?

BR

It’s still good, no noise at all Go with the lube!

[ornicar]

Originally Posted by HP_e92

It’s still good, no noise at all Go with the lube!

i have gone with the lube too. no problem, but the noise was still in place. the root cause was elsewhere --> m3 camber arms screw.

[bobbytomorow]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

If it is happening when you depress the clutch pedal down, it fits the dual mass flywheel unwinding sound, which is normal. Try depressing slowly to see if it changes.

It happens when the clutch engages and there is load put on the drive shaft, it will click/ting once per gear (gear 1 and 2 and sometimes up to gear 3) can't hear it after I hit a certain speed or over gear 3.

I went under the car today and grabbed the driveshaft where it meets the diff and turned it quickly side to side with my hand and it does make a clicking sound

[x390x]

Do you have to use a little or ALOT of grease ?

[bobbytomorow]

To follow up I did a diff swap (3.23 -> 3.73) and the sound went away. I took the flange off of the old diff and sure enough it was dry as a bone in there around the splines so I'm pretty sure that is why it was clanging and if I did pack it with grease it probably would have solved the sound issue.

[Jerain]

Hello,

My driveshaft and differential flange from my E92 335i 6MT look a bit different, is the procedure the same?

[Jerain]

Had a look at it today, with the 335i the end of the driveshaft has a knuckle with ball bearings. This was completely detoriating, grease coming out and a lot of play in it. Replacing it with a 50k miles driveshaft cured all of my clunking and vibrations...