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      02-01-2014, 12:00 PM   #1783
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Thoughts on wool pad vs. let's say a Lake County orange foam pad for water spots and etching? I know wool is preferred by professionals and I have some experience with it.
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      02-01-2014, 01:19 PM   #1784
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Greg, I have a question about how to address an area of paint damage that I just noticed. I am such an obsessed owner that I notice every scratch and imperfection of my bmw. Whatever this is just happened and not sure what to do about it. I haven't bought any products yet for scratches or chips and am open to anything. Also open to having it done by a pro. This new spot looks like raised paint on the hood. It is small - about half an inch for the big part but I have no idea how it happened. Do you or anyone else? Thanks for all the advice in this thread - I am new to the forum and still reading it.
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      02-15-2014, 06:22 PM   #1785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbanks21 View Post
Thoughts on wool pad vs. let's say a Lake County orange foam pad for water spots and etching? I know wool is preferred by professionals and I have some experience with it.
This is really a tough question to answer. Both wool and foam pads have a big place in any professional detailer's arsenal. I like to work with foam pads more, but there are many newer technology wool pads that can be used very safely and effectively with dual action or random orbital polishers, not just the rotary as before.

To answer your question more directly, as with anything you'll want to try the least invasive method of removing the spots and etching. Depending on the type of paint, sometimes even a finishing polish with a foam pad can remove water spots. Other times you need a good compound with a wool pad, maybe even a few passes. Start with something lighter and move to the aggressive side of the scale as you see necessary. On important thing to keep in mind though... some water spots and especially bird poop etchings will not be safely removed. If you're using a compound with a wool pad, even on the hardest of paints I wouldn't do more than a couple passes unless you have a paint thickness gauge to check your work. Those spots can easily turn into clear coat completely removed and a much uglier and expensive to fix spot on the paint.

Hope that makes sense.

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      02-15-2014, 06:26 PM   #1786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckeycharms View Post
Greg, I have a question about how to address an area of paint damage that I just noticed. I am such an obsessed owner that I notice every scratch and imperfection of my bmw. Whatever this is just happened and not sure what to do about it. I haven't bought any products yet for scratches or chips and am open to anything. Also open to having it done by a pro. This new spot looks like raised paint on the hood. It is small - about half an inch for the big part but I have no idea how it happened. Do you or anyone else? Thanks for all the advice in this thread - I am new to the forum and still reading it.
Ouch! I wish I could answer your question in a helpful manner but that looks rather odd. It looks like odd creases in the paint and I really can't tell how they got there. Was the car repainted ever, or that panel? Is the paint missing or is it just creased (tough to tell from the photo)?

I'd probably recommend going to a local body shop (a good one) and asking for their advice. You might have to pay someone to sand the area and hopefully just blend in with some paint instead of repainting the whole panel.

Let us know if you find a fix as I'm really curious to know what it was and how it can be fixed.

Thanks,
Ivan @ DI
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      03-23-2014, 01:25 PM   #1787
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Looking to get suggestions on a new polish. I've used Klasse AIO in the past but I think I want something with a little more cut. I'm looking at Meguiar's Speed Glaze (#80)/Swirl Free Polish (#82) vs Menzerna Super Finish 4000/4500. Thoughts?
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      03-23-2014, 01:49 PM   #1788
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I'm sure this question has been answered but it there are so many pages to go through. I am looking to receive shipment of a 2007 335i graphite metallic. I understand all paint is different on thickness and what works best. I did have a PPI done and he mentioned that the paint read 7 all the way around the car and there was absolutely no paint work done on the car. I am looking to do a complete detail with a 2 stage and then seal with opti coat. Here is what I have:

Porter cable 7424
6'' backing plate
3" backing plate
M105 (I don't like working with this too much)
carpro denim pads (I think they would cut too much)
Surbuf microfiber 6" pads

What would you suggest on a new cutting polish? I am thinking the FG400? Is there something better on the market for these cars? I am also open to newer/better pads as well.

Thanks for your help.
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      03-23-2014, 11:41 PM   #1789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marketmaster View Post
I'm sure this question has been answered but it there are so many pages to go through. I am looking to receive shipment of a 2007 335i graphite metallic. I understand all paint is different on thickness and what works best. I did have a PPI done and he mentioned that the paint read 7 all the way around the car and there was absolutely no paint work done on the car. I am looking to do a complete detail with a 2 stage and then seal with opti coat. Here is what I have:

Porter cable 7424
6'' backing plate
3" backing plate
M105 (I don't like working with this too much)
carpro denim pads (I think they would cut too much)
Surbuf microfiber 6" pads

What would you suggest on a new cutting polish? I am thinking the FG400? Is there something better on the market for these cars? I am also open to newer/better pads as well.

Thanks for your help.
Congrats on the new car and I'm glad you're looking to take care of it properly. Looks like you have some good tools so I'll just provide some input based on your questions.

First off, what exactly don't you like about M105?

I like to work with 5.5" pads with the PC7424 as they usually provide a better cut and more control. You can stick with the 6.5" pads and get great results, but if you decide to go with 5.5" pads, I like the Meguiar's 5" backing plate with the PC7424.
You can also look into Meg's Microfiber cutting pads as they'll leave a better finish than the surbuf pads and still have great correction ability. I have yet to try the demin pads so I really can't compare them to others.

As for the cutting polish, yes FG400 is a great polish/compound, but it may not cut as much as M105 in some cases. It's really worth having though if you plan on doing some polishing.

Lastly, regarding pads, I honestly work only with 5.5" pads and mainly use the Orange or Crimson Lake Country, Meg's Microfiber mentioned above and Rupes microfiber cutting pads.

Your paint is probably on the harder side and would probably benefit from a microfiber cutting pad with something like the FG400, then finish down well with M205 or Menzerna SF4500.

Hope that helps, but do let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Ivan @ DI
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      03-25-2014, 12:27 PM   #1790
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Apologies if this has already been covered in this thread but a search didn't seem to bring it up. What are your thoughts on using a drying blade?
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      03-26-2014, 11:57 AM   #1791
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hi hi,

with winter almost coming to an END.. I was wondering what kind of products or methods can I use to remove Salt stain on the carpets?

I've tried salt eraser from the local part store and it doesn't do that well of a job.. it takes out like 40% of it, but still alot remains..

Thanks
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      04-12-2014, 11:43 AM   #1792
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I've got some clay from a general hardware store, can that be used for claying a car?

Do car clay bars have something specific in them as to why they are "car" clay bars?
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      04-12-2014, 12:10 PM   #1793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adriang View Post
I've got some clay from a general hardware store, can that be used for claying a car?

Do car clay bars have something specific in them as to why they are "car" clay bars?
There are different grades of clay, similar to sandpaper with different grits. I wouldn't risk using it unless you confirm its safe for auto paint
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      04-12-2014, 05:46 PM   #1794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikosaur View Post
Apologies if this has already been covered in this thread but a search didn't seem to bring it up. What are your thoughts on using a drying blade?
I personally don't like the risk associated with it. If the paint is 100% clean and the plastic blade is new and clean, there SHOULD be no issues. However, any dust settling on the paint and in the water of the just washed car, or anything on the actual blade, can easily cause light marring. In some cases, if a bigger particle gets stuck under there you can end up with a pretty noticeable scratch.

I prefer to speed up the drying process using the Metro Sidekick Blower, then picking up the remaining water quickly and easily with a Waffle Weave Drying Towel. This way I minimize the chance for creating some issues with the paint and still save lots of time compared to drying with only the towel.

In short though, you can surely use the blade and use it safely, plus on some paints that are more resistant to swirl marks you may get away with dragging some light dust on the paint. I simply hate the idea of taking that chance only to save the 10-15 minutes drying.

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Originally Posted by esum View Post
hi hi,

with winter almost coming to an END.. I was wondering what kind of products or methods can I use to remove Salt stain on the carpets?

I've tried salt eraser from the local part store and it doesn't do that well of a job.. it takes out like 40% of it, but still alot remains..

Thanks
I have had luck using 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover or Optimum Power Clean with a good carpet brush, but sometimes if the salt has been there a while it may need a professional's touch. A good cleaner, brush, steam cleaning and extracting may all be required even for a tiny salt stain if it's being stubborn and been there for a while. I'm not sure what you can pick up at a local store to try to remove more of it, but I would imagine starting with a better cleaner (maybe consult with the local carpet/flooring store rather than auto store) and a good brush.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adriang View Post
I've got some clay from a general hardware store, can that be used for claying a car?

Do car clay bars have something specific in them as to why they are "car" clay bars?
The short answer is, probably. Many enthusiasts and professionals have tried this over the years and the end results is always the same... modeling clay, or clay like it, can surely remove some contamination. However, it's a pain to work with, it breaks off and leaves clay residue all over, becomes very sticky very quickly and is normally a one time use. Automotive clay is synthetic and designed at various levels of abrasiveness (fine, medium, etc.) in order to remove everything from light tar and rail dust to heavier overspray, etc. Normally you can get good durability from a block of clay by simply using it properly and cleaning/brushing it a bit after the job.

Again though, if you use clay to decontaminate your car once a year and wish to spend only $3-5 instead of $20, you can surely at your own discretion go for it if it provides the results you're looking for and doesn't damage the paint.
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      04-14-2014, 09:20 AM   #1795
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Thanks for your responses everyone, I tried the general hardware store clay that I had and it worked amazingly. I made sure to lubricate the surface fairly well with soap and water and didn't cause any scratches!

The below pictures are after a long winter, washed, clayed, scratch fixed, sealed and about 3.5 hours time

If anyone is interested, I sanded the muck off the inside of the exahust tips with 600grit and water while wiping off excess dirt with a cloth. Then used an automotive chrome polish to make them shine

(Mind the dust on the bumpers they fell of the roof of the garage while the car was parked inside)
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Last edited by adriang; 04-14-2014 at 09:28 AM.
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      04-15-2014, 12:15 PM   #1796
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Any thoughts on this setup for light to medium paint correction (these are all products I already own):
Wash and clay of course
Meguiar's #2 (7/10 on the aggressive scale) with LC Orange
Meguiar's #205 with LC White
Klasse AIO (needed?)
Klasse Sealant
Meguiar's #26 Carnuba Wax
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      04-19-2014, 05:14 PM   #1797
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Just want to say you guys are awesome. Ordered Thursday night, stuff on my door step Saturday morning. Thank you!
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      05-22-2014, 03:53 PM   #1798
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Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!
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      05-22-2014, 05:22 PM   #1799
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2009 BMW 335i  [4.25]
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo2566 View Post
Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!
Attachment 1031533

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=246663


http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...tip-detailing/
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      05-22-2014, 09:08 PM   #1800
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Thank you for your links, and yes I searched MANY times which is how I came up with all the different methods I tried already. I am hoping for the Pro's at detailedimage to chime in their thoughts before I keep trying different methods from searches that may or may not work. They have helped me with advice on other forums in the past and I have bought lots of product from them so I respect their experience.
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      05-23-2014, 02:47 PM   #1801
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Originally Posted by mo2566 View Post
Thank you for your links, and yes I searched MANY times which is how I came up with all the different methods I tried already. I am hoping for the Pro's at detailedimage to chime in their thoughts before I keep trying different methods from searches that may or may not work. They have helped me with advice on other forums in the past and I have bought lots of product from them so I respect their experience.
I wanted to add one more thing, once you got them clean, get them protected by Carpro CQUARTZ, look into their products., here is my car's pic, look at the exhaust
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      05-23-2014, 03:53 PM   #1802
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Originally Posted by SHEEDI View Post
I wanted to add one more thing, once you got them clean, get them protected by Carpro CQUARTZ, look into their products., here is my car's pic, look at the exhaust
Yeah, those look awesome. I am hoping I can get them back to close to that condition then I'll have no problem maintaining them. That Cquartz looks like good stuff
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      05-25-2014, 12:51 PM   #1803
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Hi Ivan,

Just wanted to get your thoughts if I'm using the correct set up.

PC7424 w/Dual Action 5 in hook & loop backing plate
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Cleaner
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Conditioner
CCS Orange 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V36
CCS White 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V38
CCS Gray w/Klasse SG

Thanks
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      05-26-2014, 12:21 AM   #1804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbanks21 View Post
Any thoughts on this setup for light to medium paint correction (these are all products I already own):
Wash and clay of course
Meguiar's #2 (7/10 on the aggressive scale) with LC Orange
Meguiar's #205 with LC White
Klasse AIO (needed?)
Klasse Sealant
Meguiar's #26 Carnuba Wax
That sounds like a good lineup. I haven't used #2 in a LONG time, but from what I remember it's a pretty decent compound/cutting polish. How well the pad/polish combos perform will depend on your paint, but you should be ok with those. KAIO is a good base for KSG the sealant, so yes I would say go ahead and do a quick pass with it using something mild, like a Blue Lake Country pad. All in all it sounds like a good plan you have lined up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWER View Post
Just want to say you guys are awesome. Ordered Thursday night, stuff on my door step Saturday morning. Thank you!
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mo2566 View Post
Any advice on getting this exhaust tip stain out or is it permanent? 90k miles 335i, this is the passenger side. The drivers isn't quite as bad but has some of the same markings. I have tried various cleaners, a metal polish, and some wire brushes. Thank you!
Attachment 1031533
I normally have good luck with steel wool and Mother's or Meguiar's metal polishes, but that does look pretty bad. I can't say I've tried every product out there so I'm not sure if there's a magical solution for it, but I'd try some other things then possibly consult with a local detailer or performance shop to see what they recommend. Wish I could be of more help, but it gets hard recommending stuff over the internet and just looking at pics .

Let us know if you find a good solution and as sheedi said, definitely protect the tips regularly once they're fixed or refinished.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sxyblue View Post
Hi Ivan,

Just wanted to get your thoughts if I'm using the correct set up.

PC7424 w/Dual Action 5 in hook & loop backing plate
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Cleaner
MXT Polishing Foam Pad Conditioner
CCS Orange 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V36
CCS White 5.5 Cutting Pad w/Chemical Guys V38
CCS Gray w/Klasse SG

Thanks
It sounds like the right combination but I've never tried the two Chemical Guy's polishes or the pad cleaner and conditioner, so can't really comment on those. I like to apply Klasse SG by hand, but by machine should be fine as well.

Ivan @ DI
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