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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Misfiring P0302, P0303 with P0175



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      09-09-2020, 03:33 PM   #1
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Misfiring P0302, P0303 with P0175

Anybody got SES with code P0302-P0303 along with P0175 system to rich?

2010 335i e93
98XXX mileage

Tune up or replace coils, spark plugs, injectors?
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      09-09-2020, 03:53 PM   #2
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Start by swapping coils 1/2 and 3/4 and see if the misfire follows the coils to cylinders 1 and 4. If yes, there's your answer. If no, then do the same for the plugs. Report back.
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      09-09-2020, 04:10 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
Start by swapping coils 1/2 and 3/4 and see if the misfire follows the coils to cylinders 1 and 4. If yes, there's your answer. If no, then do the same for the plugs. Report back.
Thanks for the response! I ran my codes at autozone so I was planning on just swapping all coils and spark plugs to new ones, I go the vehicle not to long ago (not even a month) so I think it would be wise to do some preventative maintenance.
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      09-09-2020, 07:32 PM   #4
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Can't hurt, especially if you don't know its detailed service history.
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      09-09-2020, 07:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
Can't hurt, especially if you don't know its detailed service history.
Just picked up 6 OEM Spark plugs, hope that solves it if not coils comes tomorrow. Thank you for showing support!
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      09-09-2020, 07:39 PM   #6
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All good. Hope you ordered Eldor for the coils. They're about the standard around here these days.
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      09-10-2020, 02:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
All good. Hope you ordered Eldor for the coils. They're about the standard around here these days.
Swapped spark plugs last night
Switched coil 2 to 1 and 3 to 4, and I am still getting misfiring on 2 and 3 (without the new coils)

Injectors 2 and 3?
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      09-10-2020, 03:50 PM   #8
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How long did the car sit with engine not running when you replaced the plugs. Were any of the plugs wet with fuel, or did you notice any fuel odor when you pulled them?
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      09-10-2020, 03:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
Do the same swap with the plugs before jumping to injectors. Injectors are a definite possibility, but they're also expensive and no need to just throw parts at it yet.

Pull the plugs after the car has been sitting over night and pay close attention to any that might be wet with fuel, or have a fuel odor. This will tell you if you have a leaky injector/s.

Take note of what cylinder each plug came out of and how the plugs look can also be telling of possible problems, even if they're dry.
By plugs you are referring to reorganizing the spark plugs again?
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      09-10-2020, 03:54 PM   #10
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No, I misread your post and edited it while you were quoting me
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      09-10-2020, 03:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
How long did the car sit with engine not running when you replaced the plugs. Were any of the plugs wet with fuel, or did you notice any fuel odor when you pulled them?
I drove the car for less than 3 minutes before starting to change the plugs, and I believe I smelled fuel on the plugs but forgot which one because it was late and was trying to finish up.

So now I should take apart everything to inspect the new spark plugs (while cold) and if I see any moisture from the fuel then it's the injectors?
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      09-10-2020, 04:02 PM   #12
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It's usually best to let the car sit for a while, like overnight, then pull the plugs and take note if any are wet with fuel and/or smell of fuel. If you just ran the motor, any leaking fuel would be burnt up.
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      09-10-2020, 04:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
It's usually best to let the car sit for a while, like overnight, then pull the plugs and take note if any are wet with fuel and/or smell of fuel. If you just ran the motor, any leaking fuel would be burnt up.
Will inspect the plugs Saturday morning 9/12 and take note on leakage and smell.

Somebody on FB said injectors can be mismatched and they're straight up plug and play, is that true or do you have to code them
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      09-10-2020, 06:56 PM   #14
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You have to code them. Each one will have a 6 digit code, which is a calibration code, and the DME needs to know what that code is for each cylinder. Now, what will happen if you don't...I'm not 100% sure, but I have read about cars not running right when someone doesn't. I think the severity of how poorly the car will run is luck of the draw, it might be fine, might not.
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      09-10-2020, 06:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
You have to code them. Each one will have a 6 digit code, which is a calibration code, and the DME needs to know what that code is for each cylinder. Now, what will happen if you don't...I'm not 100% sure, but I have read about cars not running right when someone doesn't. I think the severity of how poorly the car will run is luck of the draw, it might be fine, might not.
Word, I just ordered 6 index 12 injectors, i figures that I might as well change them, I bought the car Aug28th 2020 with limited service record, so it might be time to change them at 98k atm
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      09-10-2020, 07:27 PM   #16
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Chances are you need them, so if you're willing to drop the coin...don't forget the decoupling rings, you need to replace those with the injectors.

Use an injector puller to remove the old ones, I use a $25 one off of Amazon that works great.

Pay attention to the 3 hold down brackets, 1 per pair of injectors. It's crowned and acts as a spring that puts pressure down on the injectors to hold them in place while allowing some shock absorption from the explosions happening in the cylinder. Critical that these are installed in the right orientation.

Don't pull the caps off of the tips of the new injectors until you're ready to install them. As soon as you remove the cap, the seal starts to expand and you only have a few minutes before you start running into problems.
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      09-10-2020, 11:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
Chances are you need them, so if you're willing to drop the coin...don't forget the decoupling rings, you need to replace those with the injectors.

Use an injector puller to remove the old ones, I use a $25 one off of Amazon that works great.

Pay attention to the 3 hold down brackets, 1 per pair of injectors. It's crowned and acts as a spring that puts pressure down on the injectors to hold them in place while allowing some shock absorption from the explosions happening in the cylinder. Critical that these are installed in the right orientation.

Don't pull the caps off of the tips of the new injectors until you're ready to install them. As soon as you remove the cap, the seal starts to expand and you only have a few minutes before you start running into problems.
Should I let the shop do this? Since I basically bought all the parts? Went from a s2k to a 335i
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      10-21-2020, 05:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
Chances are you need them, so if you're willing to drop the coin...don't forget the decoupling rings, you need to replace those with the injectors.

Use an injector puller to remove the old ones, I use a $25 one off of Amazon that works great.

Pay attention to the 3 hold down brackets, 1 per pair of injectors. It's crowned and acts as a spring that puts pressure down on the injectors to hold them in place while allowing some shock absorption from the explosions happening in the cylinder. Critical that these are installed in the right orientation.

Don't pull the caps off of the tips of the new injectors until you're ready to install them. As soon as you remove the cap, the seal starts to expand and you only have a few minutes before you start running into problems.
So it was hydraulic valve lifters and rocker arms
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