[Kuroblack]

Hi all,

I could really do with an opinion before I take my car into the dealership next Tuesday.

So, my normally rock-solid 2011 E92 330d Auto has developed some worsening issues over the last week or so.

Symptoms are as follows:

Shaky idle, worse when cold - that's in N - if I select D or R (foot on brake) it's gets REALLY shaky and feels like it's about to stall.

Under light loading it will hesitate, almost as if the fuel has been cut, open throttle seems ok, but can occasionally still catch me out

I would say that generally, it's always worse when cold

I've searched a few nits and pieces and found everything from MAF replacement to injectors, coils (?) and a gearbox reset - any ideas folks?

Note: potential red herring but; although it's had a couple of small similar hiccups over the past 3 months I would say this has all got noticeably worse since brimming it with Shell V Power 3 days ago.

[Bmw10]

I'm having the exact same problem with my 335i
Been into the dealership 4 times no joy

[dy63]

had the same problem with my 330d. when i started it cold. it would literally shake really bad like i was moving. i changed all 6 glow plugs and pressure converter (due to quacking in engine) and it all went away. when it got warm it wouldnt shake as bad though. get your codes read

[AzRiz]

I had this last winter and I just realised after reading this thread that I have not had a shakey idle for months now. Unfortunately I can't remember when the rough idle issue disappeared as it was pretty random but I'm quite sure it was a few months back when the weather was already warm. When I did make a thread about the issue last winter, it was recommended that I change my glow plug controller as that is known to be an issue on the N57. About £120 for the part and a couple of hours to change with half-decent access available in the bay IIRC.

EDIT: I just realised that I stopped using Shell V-power a few months ago which MAY well be relevant! This would be the first car I own that doesn't like V-power...my dad's E350 Merc loves it (although it's never tried the regular stuff) and my other petrol-engined car is not willing to accept anything less.

[Kuroblack]

thanks for the replies folks - useful inputs

I've uploaded a couple of videos, hopefully the sound is good enough to hear (and see via the rev needle) what's happening.

Vid 1 is stone cold after a day at work, you can see how it shudders quite a bit when I select R (30 seconds in I think)

Vid 2 is about 35 mins later back on the driveway - as you can see it's rock solid on 600rpm regardless of shift position...


Vid 1.

Vid 2.

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by Kuroblack

Hi all,

I could really do with an opinion before I take my car into the dealership next Tuesday.

So, my normally rock-solid 2011 E92 330d Auto has developed some worsening issues over the last week or so.

Symptoms are as follows:

Shaky idle, worse when cold - that's in N - if I select D or R (foot on brake) it's gets REALLY shaky and feels like it's about to stall.

Under light loading it will hesitate, almost as if the fuel has been cut, open throttle seems ok, but can occasionally still catch me out

I would say that generally, it's always worse when cold

I've searched a few nits and pieces and found everything from MAF replacement to injectors, coils (?) and a gearbox reset - any ideas folks?

Note: potential red herring but; although it's had a couple of small similar hiccups over the past 3 months I would say this has all got noticeably worse since brimming it with Shell V Power 3 days ago.

I have a similar issue, also 330D E92 Auto although mine is Pre-LCI but has the 245 engine. Cold start is really lumpy unless you rev it a bit to get the engine going then its fine. Glow plug fault code logged (control), its been into BMW and had the glow plug and control unit swapped. Still no better. seems worse with the cold weather. Warm starts seem nice and smooth. I don't have the issue you have when popping it into D or Reverse, that almost seems like some sort of clutch issue.

Mines under warranty so going back to BMW.

[ComputerKnowHow]

I've got a 330d LCI and I had pretty much exactly this issue, sometimes worse it would just cut out when I put it in D if it was a very cold start.

I had the glow plug control unit replaced under the AUC warranty and it was immediately improved (fixed), but 12 months later I find it starting to happen again.

Anecdotally it seems worse when it has odd the tank of Tesco diesel. I normally stick to Shell ordinary diesel.

Hope you get it fixed!

[Kuroblack]

Just a quick question on error codes - are these the dash light warnings? Or is the car detecting and storing errors behind the scenes?

I ask because I've not seen any warnings flash up at all, no check engine lights, bleeps, bongs or anything. (Aside from a spurious warning the key not being engaged about two years ago...)

[Dan-danGT]

It will record them in the DDE but it might not put it into the dash! Get the error codes read by an Indy? By Indy I mean independant bmw garage

[dy63]

Originally Posted by Kuroblack

Just a quick question on error codes - are these the dash light warnings? Or is the car detecting and storing errors behind the scenes?

I ask because I've not seen any warnings flash up at all, no check engine lights, bleeps, bongs or anything. (Aside from a spurious warning the key not being engaged about two years ago...)

see if anyone local on here with INPA can help you read your codes stored in your car. they wont show up on idrive or dash!

OP. i would try change all 6 glow plugs first. wont break the bank. probably cost you around £60 for the plugs and maybe £50 labour for someone to change them for you. if problem still there then atleast you know youve got new plugs

[Kuroblack]

thanks all - it's going into the dealer (extended warranty) on Tuesday/Wednesday next week. (I'll update progress asap)

[Somerset Jim]

I had a similar problem with my previous 5 series and also a 3 series. It turned out to be one or two of the fuel injectors. They can be pressure tested and this should show if they are faulty or not. The other area to investigate would be the glow plugs but my money would be on injectors.

[Precision Engineered]

Update: I did some experimenting today and mine also gets worse when you pop it into drive or reverse (auto) on a cold start. Going into dealer week after next.

[phozy888]

mine did this when the glow plugs didnt work. Put in reverse/drive when cold very shaky and lumpy feeling.

fixed when the controller and plugs were changed.

[Precision Engineered]

Any updates from anyone? BMW supposedly had already changed my plugs and controller.

[Marshall878]

Mines just had the glow plug controlled replaced, the shaky start has gone but it still hesitates under light acceleration.

Would be interested to see if its still showing the "fuel rail pressure" code when read.

[Kuroblack]

Update: The dealer called Wednesday AM to say that although the car had thrown up no error codes, the tech had inspected the EGR and had ordered a replacement as it didn't feel right, sticky was the word they used.

Got a call that afternoon to say new EGR valve fitted, but problem still exists - they work on... Short time later all is well apparently, as the EGR cooling thing had also been replaced. Not sure what this is but it was described by the tech as almost a mini rad, fed by the coolant system and designed to cool the gases before the are reintroduced and burned once more.

Problem solved - now running as rock solid as she did a couple of months ago.

[Precision Engineered]

Originally Posted by Kuroblack

Update: The dealer called Wednesday AM to say that although the car had thrown up no error codes, the tech had inspected the EGR and had ordered a replacement as it didn't feel right, sticky was the word they used.

Got a call that afternoon to say new EGR valve fitted, but problem still exists - they work on... Short time later all is well apparently, as the EGR cooling thing had also been replaced. Not sure what this is but it was described by the tech as almost a mini rad, fed by the coolant system and designed to cool the gases before the are reintroduced and burned once more.

Problem solved - now running as rock solid as she did a couple of months ago.

Many thanks for the update. So was it the EGR valve or a cooling system related to the EGR?

[Kuroblack]

Originally Posted by Precision Engineered

Many thanks for the update. So was it the EGR valve or a cooling system related to the EGR?

I think both to be honest - I'd previously noticed some odd noises in addition to the hesitation, almost a turbo whoosh but out of sync with the revs - if you look at youtube videos of failing EGR valves, it's a similar, whoosh/fluttery noise.

I don't know much about the second part, but it was described almost like a PC cooling block, but apparently taps into the coolant system to work effectively - does anyone know any more about this thing?

Hard to know which part was ultimately at fault - I suspect both probably. I do know that I had some under-car leaks a while back (maybe a year ago) which the BMW tech put down to aircon drips mixing with exterior dirt... on reflection this could have been coolant leaking from the EGR cooler thing...

[Precision Engineered]

Mine now also appears to be resolved. Glow plug wires (HT Leads?) were replaced. Will continue to monitor but this morning was the coldest yet and nice smooth startup.

[stefank]

Hi guys, sorry for bumping an old topic, but as I am a whole new member (though I have been reading this forum many times before and found many useful things) I just couldn't make a new topic as first post.

I have a 330d E93 2008 automatic, 231 hp M57N2 engine and have similar problems to these. On cold start engine works shaky, I can feel vibrations on the seats and it even stalled a few times when I tried to start in first seconds after turning engine on (on D and R too). It feels like the engine is struggling to hold idle rpms stable, as the rpms jump up and down between 600-700, maybe even 800 sometimes. When it's hot, things get better, but there are some smaller vibrations too (and smaller gap in rpms, like 600-650 while doing so). Sometimes everything is just fine with hot engine, but pretty rare now (at first when problem showed up, it wasn't shaky with hot engine, and rpms were stable). I don't have problems while driving, just on Neutral or D/R, but all while standing on parking lot or red light.

My mechanic says it could be EGR valve not properly closing, or electric switch for EGR, but he says he can't be sure which of these 2 parts could be the solution.

Opinions?

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by stefank

Hi guys, sorry for bumping an old topic, but as I am a whole new member (though I have been reading this forum many times before and found many useful things) I just couldn't make a new topic as first post.

I have a 330d E93 2008 automatic, 231 hp M57N2 engine and have similar problems to these. On cold start engine works shaky, I can feel vibrations on the seats and it even stalled a few times when I tried to start in first seconds after turning engine on (on D and R too). It feels like the engine is struggling to hold idle rpms stable, as the rpms jump up and down between 600-700, maybe even 800 sometimes. When it's hot, things get better, but there are some smaller vibrations too (and smaller gap in rpms, like 600-650 while doing so). Sometimes everything is just fine with hot engine, but pretty rare now (at first when problem showed up, it wasn't shaky with hot engine, and rpms were stable). I don't have problems while driving, just on Neutral or D/R, but all while standing on parking lot or red light.

My mechanic says it could be EGR valve not properly closing, or electric switch for EGR, but he says he can't be sure which of these 2 parts could be the solution.

Opinions?

Remove the EGR Boost pipe from the throttle body, you may need two people (one to record and the other to start) see if the anti shudder valve functions when you start and stop the engine, furthermore inspect the EGR valve while the boost pipe if off the throttle body, theres a possibility the valve is stuck open from carbon deposits in which case you would see exhaust fumes seep into the EGR valve. Furthermore for testing, you could remove the EGR Vacuum pipe from the EGR itself, it has a green stripe and you could screw a little screw into the EGR Vacuum pipe and see how it drives then as this would stop the EGR Valve from opening under vacuum. You will get a engine management light illuminate with the EGR vacuum pipe disconnected but this is for testing purposes, once you connect the EGR vacuum pipe back on the Engine Management Light will go back out.

https://youtu.be/RNnREOIuZxU