[ash335]

Hello,

Just found my way into a 2008 Plat Bronze e92 335i, 100k on the clock, bone stock.
Will be keen to start doing some track days at some point.

I have been looking at a few of the mod related threads here... and the copious other US threads... trying to decide on a good mod pathway... a few q's have come up.

Incoming wall of text... tldr below.

1st stop is the maintenance...
Planning to change oil and get the intake valve walnut blasting completed.
Spark plugs were replaced 2 years ago (<20k kms ago)... should I replace these too?
Any other maintenance issues I should sort out prior to modding?

Mods...
Tune - JB4 vs MHD flasher? From what I understand the benefit of the JB4 is the on-the-fly map swapping... which would be handy for track days. And the MHD's benefit is that it is customisable and cheap! Are there any other reasons to go with either setup?
I was thinking of the JB4.

Charge pipe/BOV - Was thinking of the Tial q BOV... the quandry is which pipe to go with... local mech (active motorwerke) sells the VRSF... but am I right in this being a knock off of the ER pipe with lesser build quality? Are there any real reasons to go with BMS or ER or Cobb or cPE??
I was thinking of the n54Tuning ER/Tial combo.

Oil Catch Can - Will this eliminate the intake valve buildup issue?

Intake - Yeah, I know this has been done to death, but so many threads, so many differing outcomes... From what I have read it would seem that CAI seems to have a significant reduction in air intake temps... but most people seems to just get DCI. Is this just because its cheap and the gains from CAI are negligible?
I was thinkin of the BMS DCI

I was planning on doing the above 1st... and next stage will think about intercooler, exhaust and DPs... Is that a reasonable ordering of mods? Or is there a better order or something i've missed?

One last q... anyone know of dyno places near the inner east of melb? And what sort of costs would be involved... would be keen to check where the car is at now, and then as each mod gets put on, see the difference...

tl.dr
1. Recommended maintenance prior to mods?
2. JB4 or MHD?
3. Which CP/BOV combo is best?
4. Oil Catch can necessary?
5. CAI or DCI or Stock Airbox?
6. Is there a better build path?
7. Dyno inner east melbourne? Costs?

[Scotty89]

spark plugs NGK 5992 (require gapping), coil packs, MHD flash tune, vrsf Charge pipe and a BOV is cheapest, oil catch can not necessary, CAI not necessary, why are you building paths? build a race car instead, don't need to dyno, if you want bragging numbers wait til the next dyno day, it's much cheaper.

[iliketurtl3s]

Walnut blast - pm vtl. He "might" be able to help u out
Also any coding you want to do.
Sparks and Coils as scotty2hotty mentioned.

If you are new and want some more flexibility then jb4 - I have one for sale G5

All of above can be done for 1k. Cheap cheap.

I wouldn't bother with dyno - u can get a good.idea of your numbers by looking at others here. Waste of money imo.

[/335]

Welcome to the forums bro..

Considering your car is at 100k I'd look at some maintenance first before you start modding. Once you start adding more power it will expose anything thats weak or dying and just reduce its lifespan, better off getting it out of the way before you start.

I don't think theres really a right way to go about modding.. I think most just start with tune, dci, downpipes and exhaust then just go from there. If you still have the run flats get rid of them too. Oil catch can not really necessary as it does not prevent the intake buildup.

Any plans for aesthetic mods?

[CashedUpBogan]

Welcome to the forums!

1. Change your plugs and coils before you do a single thing

2. MHD is a great app with continual development. It is becoming more and more advanced and is a very cheap entry point into engine tuning. Make sure you buy the monitoring ability for data logging. JB4 stacked with MHD when you chase more power with upgraded turbos and port injection. If you want a JB4, they pop up for around 500 used here occasionally.

3. No such thing as 'best' for this combo. The charge pipes are all virtually the same and do a very, very simple job and all fit the same and made as tough as they need to be. A waste of money at your point. You're not running enough boost to crack it. Having said that, stock cars have cracked charge pipes and highly boosted cars still use stock charge pipe for 30,000kms plus, so YMMV. Why do you want a BOV? You can buy a used charge pipe that use the stock recirculating valves for about 250. Get it later if you're chasing dat FBO status. Save now and spend on items listed below.

4. It's not necessary but many people buy it for peace of mind, catching a bit of oil blow back and keeping the intake tract for those that run high boost or push their cars. If you plan on tracking, then get it before then. Many people have different things to say about OCCs but general concensus is unnecessary for mild modded cars. This will NOT prevent intake valve buildup in any way. Save now and spend on items listed below.

5. Adds bugger all at your stage. Only noticeable gains by the time you're FBO, pushing more boost and by that time down the track, you'll be looking at inlets, which you're also spoilt for choice. Save now to spend on more important items listed below.

6. Yes. Save up $40,000 or so and go all out at once with Port Injection, upgraded turbos, LSD, suspension work, big brake kit etc etc. So, no. The path can only depend on what your final destination is.

Instead of CAI, CP, BOV, and OCC, get yourself a decent intercooler to lower IATs and run higher boost and catless DPs. Get MHD and a custom tune, which will be about as much as a JB4 and best of all will be custom tailored to your car instead of a generic map 5 or whatnot.

Next would be low pressure fuel pump upgrade and E85.

I'd disagree with what others say about dynoing your car. It's always good to do a baseline dyno to know the health of your car. Get the MHD monitor beforehand and log the dyno run. This will reveal a great deal about the overall health of your car and how it's gonna respond to certain mods and what you may or may not have to upgrade/replace. From then, you can get a second dyno if you really want after mods without tune. Then another dyno run after custom tune and this will give you an indicator of how much the tune has extracted. Power figures aren't that important in the grand scheme of things other than bragging rights
, but they're not really that expensive either.

Hope that helps and I'm sure lots of people will disagree with what I've said.

[tawfeeqh]

Hey mate

Welcome to the world of n54 335! Most of the members have covered off your questions so ill keep my response short.

I think its always good to get a baseline dyno run before you start modding, however most workshops will charge anywhere between $100-150 for the run. These cars usually put down anywhere between 175-185rwkw bone stock. Obviously these numbers are influenced by dyno make, dyno operator, weather etc.

If you like to get a baseline run done, there is a dyno day coming up in a fortnight and its in the eastern part of melbourne hosted by enthusiasts car club "three triple zero"

Sun 13th Mar 2016 from 9-5pm
RevSpeed Auto
52 Henderson rd Clayton South
$70 for 3x dyno runs with charts provided
30 spots available

Below is a link to the facebook event. I most likely will be there.

https://www.facebook.com/events/1524692031193317/

In terms of maintenance before you start tuning as others have prob already highlighted:

- Spark plugs
- Coil pack (if it hasn't been replaced before)
- Oil Change
- Wallnut blast a must, usually frees up upto 10rwkw

Things to look out for on these cars:
- waterpump failure
- high pressure fuel pump failure
- turbo wastegate rattle
- boost solenoids issues

Active motorwerke is very familiar with this car and a good workshop. Jin and Steven are really good to deal with so good choice if you plan to go with them

[Brule]

I'll just add from experience from nodding this car:

Flash tune only

Buy vrsf charge pipe and down pipes, they are cheap and the owner has good reputation if anything is damaged or doesn't fit.

Buy a decent intercooler atm or Wagner tube and fin style.

Have fun. If I hear of you buying an ebay intercooler I will cry.

[tawfeeqh]

+1 to a good intercooler

[vtl]

Flash tune is simply a better and cheaper solution. JB4 is a box that fools the stock ECU into providing more boost and fuel. What platform these days still use piggybacks? The JB4 provides extra features but youll end up having to backend flash the car anyway because the JB4 isnt too consistent on map5 and the driveability is better with a flash.

Do intercooler and downpipes and tune and the power will be taken care of. The stock intercooler is garbage on these cars, you will immediately lose power after 1 run.

VRSF chargepipe is ok, but the power steering lines rub up against it. The power steering reservoir mounts end up getting stressed and stretched and become oval shaped lol. ER charge pipe is the correct shape but its a bit pricey for a pipe. Stock charge pipes manufactured after 2009 were the ones that are prone to cracking, prior to this its a different design which is much stronger. I am running a 2008 charge pipe with the rubber elbow with turbosmart kompact diverters.

Oil catch can? Dont bother, you'll still need to walnut blast it, does not catch all the vapours. Unless you want to chase the 1kw from the reduced octane of blow by gasses.

These cars are incredibly fast on the race track but you will chuck CELs no question about it. My temps went up to 140 degrees oil temp yesterday at Winton and I have a manual transmission which produces much less heat than an auto. Upgraded oil cooler and/or aux radiator will be needed eventually if you drive the car hard. Your maintenance needs to be top notch before going to the track. Plugs/coils/replace every rubber vacuum hose/any weak radiator hoses.

[iliketurtl3s]

Also most importantly. SHIT WILL BREAK! Be prepared mentally.

[Flex68]

Be prepared to have couple k spare at all times if your not a backyard diy'er because the only shit that keeps going on my e92 are GASKETS ... Oil filter gasket , oil cooler gasket , oil cooler line seals , sump gasket ..... Basically due to the heat in bay and all rubber components they will perish much sooner

[_ink]

Definitely 100% maintenance upfront! It's hard to tell what parts have been replaced previously unless they went to a dealer, or you know who did their servicing.

Sparks, coils, injectors, hpfp, water pump, valve cover/gasket, oil filter gasket, walnut blast.

[ash335]

Wow, that was a quick comprehensive response! Thanks all.

Originally Posted by _Flex68

Be prepared to have couple k spare at all times if your not a backyard diy'er because the only shit that keeps going on my e92 are GASKETS ... Oil filter gasket , oil cooler gasket , oil cooler line seals , sump gasket ..... Basically due to the heat in bay and all rubber components they will perish much sooner

Well aware, other car is '05 X5, prior '96 M3... you certainly pay to have that little blue and white roundel!

Hoping to develop a bit of DIY skills too... as this is the 'extra' car, I'm not dependant on it running!
Any recommendations for au supplier for a good torque wrench and spark plug socket tool?

Ok, so...

Dyno

Originally Posted by _tawfeeqh

If you like to get a baseline run done, there is a dyno day coming up in a fortnight and its in the eastern part of melbourne hosted by enthusiasts car club "three triple zero"

Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to see if i'm going to be free for it. I kinda would like to see where the car is after 8 years! Hmm... facebook... i'll have to resurrect my FB account that has been silent for 8 years!

Maintenance

Originally Posted by _ink

Definitely 100% maintenance upfront! It's hard to tell what parts have been replaced previously unless they went to a dealer, or you know who did their servicing.

Sparks, coils, injectors, hpfp, water pump, valve cover/gasket, oil filter gasket, walnut blast.

Luckily, prev owner was fastidious with maintenance, initially with BMW Melbourne, then BM Tech for the last 2 years... HPFP, Water pump and VANOS solenoid replaced already. I've got a copy of all his receipts... will have to go through them to double check.

Oil + Sparks and Coils - Might DIY
Walnut blast - I'll get Active Motorwerke to do this, they quoted $550 ?reasonable?
Vacuum lines - I had Active do the PPI on the vehicle and they picked up a bit of wear on tear on these lines... so I had them all replaced the day after I bought the car! Im not sure about the radiator hoses tho.

Mods

MHD flash it is!
Ordered a K+DCAN cable and OTG cable from the link in the Aus MHD thread. Hopefully all works well.
Out of interest... how many use the battery charger while doing the flash? Any recommendations for a good one?

Originally Posted by _vtl

Stock charge pipes manufactured after 2009 were the ones that are prone to cracking, prior to this its a different design which is much stronger. I am running a 2008 charge pipe with the rubber elbow with turbosmart kompact diverters.

So basically... theres not much point to the CP/BOV from a preventative maintenance point of view? Should I just wait for the stock unit to fail... if it does fail. The stock DV's are supposed to be a bit leaky... are the turbosmart ones good?
If I do want to have a BOV (for the whoosh ) then I need to upgrade the CP. Might leave as is for the moment.

Originally Posted by _Brule

Buy vrsf charge pipe and down pipes, they are cheap and the owner has good reputation if anything is damaged or doesn't fit.
Buy a decent intercooler atm or Wagner tube and fin style.
Have fun. If I hear of you buying an ebay intercooler I will cry.

So intercooler and DPs should be my first bolt on?
Lol, ebay ... I was thinking of ordering through Active or via BMS/n54tuning... slightly crap where the AUD is though... if only I had got the car when the AUD was 1.13 USD!
Any specific recommendations for intercooler? AA? cPE?

Originally Posted by _jus335

Any plans for aesthetic mods?

Not at present. Want to have the 'sleeper' appearance.
Might do the lighting upgrade to LED at some point...
Unfortunately... mine does not have the M-Sport pack, so any major cosmetics will require a full body kit... $$ I'd rather spend on kw!

[Socket]

+1 to the advice above

Springy motors are in the Eastern burbs, dyno is $220
If you wait for a dyno day you will pay around $80

Save some money and buy parts from the forums Australian classifieds, usually lots cheaper then buying new
While on the topic of mods, splash out on some black kidney grills, is an easy cheap mod that states I'm part of the modding community lol

[Trev88]

Originally Posted by Socket

+1 to the advice above

Springy motors are in the Eastern burbs, dyno is $220
If you wait for a dyno day you will pay around $80

Save some money and buy parts from the forums Australian classifieds, usually lots cheaper then buying new
While on the topic of mods, splash out on some black kidney grills, is an easy cheap mod that states I'm part of the modding community lol

Sockets where did u get the grills from? I like it >.<

[_ink]

I think VTL can do a WB for you as well.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Trev88

Sockets where did u get the grills from? I like it >.<

Purchased them from a forum member when I first joined up, can buy them from BMR or ebay sellers

[iliketurtl3s]

Just plastidip them matte black

[08njSTEP]

I got the turbosmart DV and installed them on stock cp during walnut blast and the car had a deduct in turbo lag after. I went recirculate because I like the stealth too. No woooosh for me thank you. I like them a lot. I have vrsf cp but haven't installed it yet, but I might not ever unless I blow stocker. I have the dreaded (lol) '07 with 89k mi. (Actually Dec '06 production).

[ash335]

Originally Posted by Socket

While on the topic of mods, splash out on some black kidney grills, is an easy cheap mod that states I'm part of the modding community lol

Lol, yes will get onto this asap

Originally Posted by _ink

I think VTL can do a WB for you as well.

Awesome, I might PM him for deets. Thnx!

Extra q's.

Gonna do an oil change. Was thinking of using castrol edge 5w30 (ll-01), but then saw Shell Helix Ultra 5w30 (ll-04). Similar prices... given than BMW has moved to shell now... should I use the Helix or stick with Castrol? ll-01 vs ll-04?? 6-8 month intervals?

Also, getting tooled up for DIY... I already have a socket set, but gonna get...
- 3/8" torque wrench (Kincrome one from Bunnings ok? I think its about 100 bucks)
- spark plug socket and oil filter cap removal tool (was going to get the ECS Tuning one while i get my plugs, coil packs, oil filter/gasket, etc), any good local suppliers you guys use? on the few au websites i looked at cost seems to be cheaper from us including shipping!
- Torx... ?Will I need to get torx bits/sockets too? Theres a set at ECS tuning for 50 USD +shipping, or ebay sets for 40ish AUD inc shipping... any reason not to go ebay?

[vtl]

Oil I just run Castrol Edge Titanium 5w-40 when its on sale. If you change it frequently I doubt theres much difference to diff brands. I'd go for a 40 rather than a 30, these cars run really hot in Australian conditions, an Auto even more so.

Have a look here for tools:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19323691

I would avoid ECS tuning, especially tools. Ther prices are ok but the shipping cost is crazy. I prefer FCP euro for replacenent parts

Torque wrench i'd get a 3/8 and 1/2 at a minimum. Can do basic stuff like plugs and oil and torque your wheels. 1/4" if you do your own repairs (a lot of the stuff attached to the engine uses really low torque values)

Spark plug socket and oil filter tool can just be bought off ebay.

[bradsm87]

For intercooler, I like AMS because it's 6" thick, which I think is perfect, considering the packaging constraints, the end tanks are really smooth flowing and the core quality looks nice.

Intercooler, downpipes, inlets, DCI and tune and you're laughing. Add low pressure fuel pump if you want to push it over around 280kw at the wheels.

I personally am sticking to stock charge pipe and diverter valves with upgraded turbos and 18psi, unless the charge pipe breaks. I honestly don't think it will break but time will tell. After highly modifying a few cars, I've learnt not to spend money on any mods unless absolutely necessary, because you never get your money back.