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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Intermittent Long Cranks - Tried EVERYTHING!



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      05-06-2016, 10:15 AM   #1
Demetriou.J.D
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Exclamation Intermittent Long Cranks - Tried EVERYTHING!

Hi all,

I am fed up with my e93 320i. I have posted a couple of days ago but didn't get really get any responses as to how to fix it.

I have gone to 5 different mechanics including the BMW Dealership.

I keep having long cranks and no start whenever the car is warm. By this I mean that I will typically switch the car off, go to a shop for a couple of minutes, come out again and try to start the car and I get long cranks up to 10 seconds and the start fails. This continues on until I leave the car to rest for about 20-25 minutes. The car starts fine from cold.

What I have checked and changed till now:

Tried a new HPFP
Installed new Coils
Checked the Fuel Pump and the pressure it pumps gas out.
Changed the crankshaft sensor.
Changed NOX Sensor as I was getting an error.
Changed spark plugs.
Had my injectors checked, two were faulty so I replaced them.

The last one happened today and I was nearly sure that this would eventually fix the problem, yet after leaving it off for a couple of minutes and trying to start the car I got the long cranks again.

The latest error today is 2D59 'DME, internal fault: monitoring, actual torque'

Could this be the problem or do you think its something else?
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      05-06-2016, 10:19 AM   #2
mpaone23
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Maybe time for an eccentric shaft sensor change?
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      05-07-2016, 06:23 AM   #3
Demetriou.J.D
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I will try that on Monday! Thanks mpaone23

Any other suggestions?
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      05-07-2016, 06:24 AM   #4
Demetriou.J.D
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Update:

I read up that the 2D59 error just comes up whenever the car is in limp mode, so I guess thats not it.

Interchanged the Vanos today but still same problem
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      05-10-2016, 02:30 AM   #5
Demetriou.J.D
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Guys, I've checked the fuel pressure when the car is cranking, and the pressure is at around 37-42 PSI. I've read that models after 2006 should have a fuel pressure of around 75 PSI. Would that mean that I should focus mostly on the fuel pump now or could it be an ECU issue as the car starts right away from cold?

Last edited by Demetriou.J.D; 05-10-2016 at 03:32 AM..
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      05-10-2016, 10:23 AM   #6
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Check the eccentric shaft sensor. I had a ghost code and oil in my connectors that gave me rough idles, long starts, and sometimes no starts. After I changed the gasket and cleaned it, I'm getting 2 extra mpg with my regular driving and much smoother idling and acceleration.
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      05-10-2016, 11:25 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demetriou.J.D View Post
Guys, I've checked the fuel pressure when the car is cranking, and the pressure is at around 37-42 PSI. I've read that models after 2006 should have a fuel pressure of around 75 PSI. Would that mean that I should focus mostly on the fuel pump now or could it be an ECU issue as the car starts right away from cold?
interesting find. try checking cold start fuel pressure. maybe the fpr is acting up when hot. and yes, maybe it is a problem with the pump.

check and clean all your connectors... maybe some oil and gunk is built up in them and the resistance rises when hot.
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      05-11-2016, 08:39 AM   #8
Demetriou.J.D
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So after checking everything, the Mechanic still didn't find anything, so he called BMW UK up. He told them whats going on and they basically went through everything they checked and everything has been done thoroughly. So now mechanic had to send log files to BMW UK so they investigate.

Will keep this thread updated once I know what the problem is so hopefully someone else can save a lot of money for no reason.

Thank you to everyone who tried to help!
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      12-06-2016, 12:04 AM   #9
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Make sure your camshaft sensor is seated properly. I replaced it and it was still showing code 2A9A. Also, I was experiencing a long crank and the check engine soon light came on. I took a look at the sensor from the side (using a flashlight) and I was able to see the oring (not suppose to see the oring). DO NOT TIGHTEN THAT LITTLE BOLT. Loosen the bolt and jiggle the sensor until it is seated correctly (no longer can see the oring) then tighten the bolt (not too tight, snug) Car started right up and no more codes are being thrown.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      12-06-2016, 08:57 AM   #10
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Have you checked starter and battery
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      12-06-2016, 09:21 AM   #11
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^ This. I had the occasional long crank and I replaced the battery and it was still there, so I replaced the starter and now it fires right up.
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