Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
I'm really guessing here, but if I were in your situation I'd get a pressure bleeder (you can use it in 2 years to flush brakes again - the flush schedule is every 24 months from the build date of the car). With a pressure bleeder correctly setup, which means loaded at least half-full with fresh brake fluid and pressurized to 18 PSI, I'd connect a catch bottle to the front left brake caliper and open the bleed screw. Then I'd have an assistant get in the car and slowly press the brake pedal to see if the open hydraulic circuit will draw brake fluid into the master cylinder and out the brake caliper. I suggest the front left brake because it has the shortest hydraulic circuit, so there is less air to purge. You need an assistant here to operate the brake pedal while you observe the brake fluid ejecting from the caliper(s). I'd let you borrow my wife, as she is an expert, master-level brake pedal operation technician with 30 years experience, but we're on the East Coast, so you'll need to find someone local...
If you can get bubble-free fluid out of the left front brake caliper, then close the bleeder valve. Check the level of the fluid in the pressure bleeder (it still should be close to half-full) and check the pressure and pump it back up to 20 PSI.
Then start at the right rear brake as normally you would, and start bleeding the brakes correctly. Finally, bleed the front left brake again. If you are getting bubble-free fluid ejecting from each caliper, you may be home free, or at least have the car drivable. Drivable to an independent BMW shop and pay them to properly bleed the ABS valve body.
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Alright so quick update, I just did the whole process without a pressure bleeder, I attached a hose to each caliper bleeder (individually) and kept pumping the brake till the fluid came out of the calipers with no air bubbles. And now the reservoir is full and the brake pedal is stiff again. So before I start the car and see if the brakes work, is there anything else I need to double check before? (And I know you gave me instructions which ofc I highly appreciate but I’m trynna do what I can without the pressure bleeder) side note: I do have MHD tune in and I do have Carly for BMW, so would clearing codes and reflashing the car help abs codes
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