[bumere90]

Hey guys, my car just turned 100k and my AC compressor clutch blew.
Realoem doesn't list the clutch separately, so I assume I would have to get a whole new compressor. Any ideas what could have caused that to happen?

[bumere90]

bump, does anybody know how to remove the AC compressor? Looks like I need to remove the front end in order to replace it. Please correct me if I am wrong.

[Z3shahzad]

Happened to mine. What did you do to fix yours ?

[m@rco]

Most likely, the reason is simply just wear... But try to avoid engaging the A/C at high rpms. That causes much more wear obviously. In winter, I don't have my A/C on. When it gets warmer during a ride, I usually turn it on in between shifting gears (I have 6MT). With an automatic, you could do it at a traffic light or when cruising at low rpms.

[blingman]

its just wear, happened to me. I replaced it myself, wasn't as bad as I thought. I took my time and went slow, but if I had to do it again, I'd say I could do it in 2 hours. I didnt take any pictures but I could give you a step of step of what I remember and what tools will help a lot(or kind of needed).

[bumere90]

seems like a common problem, and there is no clutch kits. you have to replace the entire unit.
it took me probably an hour to replace it. it is really easy if you have the right tools.

[JordonMusser]

... trying to swap mine right now. Got the compressor free, but can't sneak it out! that little coolant tube thing at the bottom was in the way of the last built, FYI.
tip/suggestions/etc would be great

[bumere90]

You must remove the cooling fan first...
Disconnect the coolant tubes and hoses and move them to the side.

[blingman]

I think I know what you're talking about, I had to go underneath the car and remove two screws(I think it help hold the water pump to some bar) to give the water pump room to wiggle, and then the compressor can be pulled out.

[bumere90]

right. I was going to write a DIY on this but have been very busy lately.
there are 2, 10mm bolts holding the water pump or thermostat, once you remove them you can wiggle it in order to access another external torx bolt holding the ac compressor.
make sure you replace them with new bolts, don't reuse the old ones.

[JordonMusser]

Looks like I went at it the hard(er) way. I removed those two 10mm bolts holding the t-stat holder ( i think) to get to that lower bolt and pulled the compressor out of the top/side by raising the motor slightly.
I bought new bolts for it, what is the torque value on those aluminum bolts?

Is the dryer located in the end of the condenser?

[bumere90]

Yes, the dryer is located on the condenser, long round tube.
I don't know the torque specs, use a regular ratchet just don't overtighten it and youll be fine.
I called my local bmw dealer and got a quote of $2,000 to replace the AC compressor (including the compressor)
They told me they have to remove the entire front assembly to replace it lol.
The easiest way is to pull the fan out, and you will have plenty of space.

[JordonMusser]

It looks like I will have to pull the shrouding off the top of the condensor, etc to get the dryer/filter assy out anyway?

turns out it was my AC clutch, not the compressor (still spins smoothly, and the pulley is disintegrated) so at least I probably dont have a ton of trash in the system.

[JordonMusser]

oh and:
I assume the new BMW factory compressor comes with oil, did you need to add any more?

[bumere90]

why would you replace the dryer? in order to remove it you would have to remove the entire condenser pain in the a$$
factory compressor comes preoiled
I installed a used one.
if anybody needs a brand new OEM BMW AC compressor I can get them for $575 shipped.
Tischer price is over $900

[JordonMusser]

had I KNOWn the compressor was ok (and not just the pulley) I prob would not have R&R the dryer.

For everybodies future help:
E90, BMW, AC compressor and dryer:
1)You can get the compressor out of the top with out removing the fan, but you must lift the engine a little (jack on the exhaust).
2) you must move the little t-stat housing or whatever it is on the bottom, 2x10mm bolts
3) you can replace the dryer with out removing the condensor. just remove the two "pegs" that hold it from the top (torx-plastic) and pry it backwards, slip the dryer out and in.

[bumere90]

my second ac compressor failed
fml

[FFR3713]

That sucks. What did you use for the replacement?

Ordering a new Denso $380 (funny the remans are more $$). Says o-rings and oil included. Anyone know if new bolts will be in there?

I have replaced ac systems before (never BMW) and by the comments here, there should be no surprises.

Recharge by can or did you take it somewhere?

[smallseafishie]

I'd pull the clutch from the new compressor and transplant. It's easier than trying to replace drier, vacuum, and then refill with R134a.

[smallseafishie]

Originally Posted by FFR3713

That sucks. What did you use for the replacement?

Ordering a new Denso $380 (funny the remans are more $$). Says o-rings and oil included. Anyone know if new bolts will be in there?

I have replaced ac systems before (never BMW) and by the comments here, there should be no surprises.

Recharge by can or did you take it somewhere?

Replace compressor, replace drier (you can possibly get away with skipping this if you're relatively fast on your compressor swap), vacuum and refill with metering device.

[shadow191]

Maybe debris? I know that with some companies that sell compressors, they make you change the condenser as well or else they won't honor the warranty.

[QUOTE=bumere90;14103058]my second ac compressor failed
fml[/QUOTEwon't

[FFR3713]

Found a plate from the front of the compressor in the engine compartment. Surprised the unit did not seize.

Probably a good idea to swap the belt as long as I'm in there and all is apart.