[racerbruce]

just about to place an order for upgrades and value opinion(s) re the pcv valve replacement....

Burger Motorsports Billet PCV Valve:
https://burgertuning.com/collections...ment-pcv-valve

FTP Motorsport Billet PCV Valve:
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...RoCVJMQAvD_BwE

Rob Beck PCV Valve:
https://burgertuning.com/collections...ant=4559316867

it seems the bmw oem pcv valve is known to fail or be weak even when new; does the billet pcv valve not have failures like that?

the rob beck pcv valve uses bmw oem plastic core parts which are known to fail.

please offer your thoughts - thanks.


racerbruce

[racerbruce]

bump for advice and perspective on this thread - thank you.

[HondaRC51]

I got the dual catch can kit (came with pcv valve) from BMS and love it. Id say go with whatever is within your price point and you like the reviews of the most.

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by HondaRC51

I got the dual catch can kit (came with pcv valve) from BMS and love it. Id say go with whatever is within your price point and you like the reviews of the most.

thanks -
i'm a noobie at forced induction mods but coming up to speed; seriously considering the catch can in the near future; can you gauge how much oil you're entrapping in your catch can?

forgive me if you've seen my post of the mods/replacement items i'm ordering this week:

BMS Chargepipe (1)
BMS Chargepipe Clip (1)
BMS Chargepipe Gasket (1)
BMS Chargepipe BOV Vacuum Adapter (1)
BMS NGK 2 Step Colder Spark Plugs (6)
BMS Spark Plug Socket (1)
BMS JB+ Software Tuner (1)
BMS Cowl Cabin Filters Red (2)
TMS Billet PCV Valve (1)
TMS Blow-By Vent Hose (1)
TMS Dinan Performance Ignition Coils (6)
Verocious Motorsports 3,5, 6, 10 mm Silicone Vacuum Hose Red (1)
TiAL Q50mm BOV Red 11 Lb Spring (1)
Ebay Ignition Coil Cover (1)

[HondaRC51]

I empty both cans every oil change just to make sure I'm on top of it. I'd say the low side (vacuum side) can gets the most oil and barely any on the high side can. If I was to put a figure on it I'd say about a table spoon of oil from the low side can.

[dmckmc]

I use low side can only, get about 1/2 to 1 oz (15 - 30 mL) every oil change. High side never got a drop in thousands of miles so I removed it.

[335i54n]

i would swap out jb4 for mhd, bms pcv and just go straight for b58 coil upgrade/plugs. i would also be leery for spending too much yet as you may need suspension and other maint items (index 12)

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

I'm curious about this to. I planned to replaced with Rob Beck like I had on my previous car but you mention they have stock internals? Why do you claim this? Also the Burger tuning one is supposed to be the exact same as Rob Beck except branded for BMS. And the VTT one is stolen/copied on Rob Beck's.

Also, I feel like this mod might be useless, like I agree these valve are higher quality but there's not a lot of posts talking about it and their real world benefits which I would love to learn and know what this does exactly. Sometimes some mods just give marginal benefits or solve an issue that isn't really a big one in the first place.

[335i54n]

reliability and durability, if urs working yes there is no benefit but i rather install a better known unit that will last longer. it not hard to check to remove cap and unit

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

I'm curious about this to. I planned to replaced with Rob Beck like I had on my previous car but you mention they have stock internals? Why do you claim this? Also the Burger tuning one is supposed to be the exact same as Rob Beck except branded for BMS. And the VTT one is stolen/copied on Rob Beck's.

Also, I feel like this mod might be useless, like I agree these valve are higher quality but there's not a lot of posts talking about it and their real world benefits which I would love to learn and know what this does exactly. Sometimes some mods just give marginal benefits or solve an issue that isn't really a big one in the first place.

greetings,
the bms website states:
"The RB upgraded PCV uses only Genuine OEM core PCV Valves offering the absolute best performance and quality."

does this mean the rb pcv valve is using bmw oem plastic parts that are prone to failure on n54's?

https://burgertuning.com/collections...ment-pcv-valve

[CarAbuser]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

thanks -
i'm a noobie at forced induction mods but coming up to speed; seriously considering the catch can in the near future; can you gauge how much oil you're entrapping in your catch can?

forgive me if you've seen my post of the mods/replacement items i'm ordering this week:

BMS Chargepipe (1)
BMS Chargepipe Clip (1)
BMS Chargepipe Gasket (1)
BMS Chargepipe BOV Vacuum Adapter (1)
BMS NGK 2 Step Colder Spark Plugs (6)
BMS Spark Plug Socket (1)
BMS JB+ Software Tuner (1)
BMS Cowl Cabin Filters Red (2)
TMS Billet PCV Valve (1)
TMS Blow-By Vent Hose (1)
TMS Dinan Performance Ignition Coils (6)
Verocious Motorsports 3,5, 6, 10 mm Silicone Vacuum Hose Red (1)
TiAL Q50mm BOV Red 11 Lb Spring (1)
Ebay Ignition Coil Cover (1)

These are the only parts I would stick with:
BMS Chargepipe (1)
BMS Chargepipe Clip (1)
BMS Chargepipe Gasket (1)
BMS Spark Plug Socket (1)
Verocious Motorsports 3.5mm Silicone Vacuum Hose (red is a bit ricey but doesn't cost any extra!) (1)

If your plans are just FBO then stick with OE plugs, coils and the stock diverter valves. Just make sure your valve cover is in good shape, no need for aftermarket PCV stuff.

JB+ and JB4 are old tech, no longer useful, they are inferior to proper ECU tunes and negatively impact the driveability of the car. Use MHD instead.

Keep the stock cowl, keeps water out better.

Best to save your money and put it towards proper maintenance or actual performance mods rather than having a colour coded ricer engine bay.

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by CarAbuser

These are the only parts I would stick with:
BMS Chargepipe (1)
BMS Chargepipe Clip (1)
BMS Chargepipe Gasket (1)
BMS Spark Plug Socket (1)
Verocious Motorsports 3.5mm Silicone Vacuum Hose (red is a bit ricey but doesn't cost any extra!) (1)

If your plans are just FBO then stick with OE plugs, coils and the stock diverter valves. Just make sure your valve cover is in good shape, no need for aftermarket PCV stuff.

JB+ and JB4 are old tech, no longer useful, they are inferior to proper ECU tunes and negatively impact the driveability of the car. Use MHD instead.

Keep the stock cowl, keeps water out better.

Best to save your money and put it towards proper maintenance or actual performance mods rather than having a colour coded ricer engine bay.

thanks -
please offer additional information from your statement re the jb+ "....and negatively impact the driveability of the car" - thanks - bruce

https://burgertuning.com/collections...-quick-install

[CarAbuser]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

thanks -
please offer additional information from your statement re the jb+ "....and negatively impact the driveability of the car" - thanks - bruce

https://burgertuning.com/collections...-quick-install

The JB+ and JB4 are piggyback systems that hijack certain operations of the DME. The JB4 takes over the boost control from the DME so it will have full control of the wastegates rather than the DME.

Essentially the amount of boost the engine produces is no longer under the control of the DME but everything else like timing is. It will be most noticeable at part throttle, rather than getting predictable power delivery you'll end up all or nothing in terms of torque. With a good DME tune you'll get stock like power delivery where you can module the power precisely at part throttle.

The best analogy I can think of for a piggyback is that it's like driving a car with one person operating the pedals another moving the gearstick and wheel. You might get where you want to eventually but it'll be disjointed.

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by CarAbuser

The JB+ and JB4 are piggyback systems that hijack certain operations of the DME. The JB4 takes over the boost control from the DME so it will have full control of the wastegates rather than the DME.

Essentially the amount of boost the engine produces is no longer under the control of the DME but everything else like timing is. It will be most noticeable at part throttle, rather than getting predictable power delivery you'll end up all or nothing in terms of torque. With a good DME tune you'll get stock like power delivery where you can module the power precisely at part throttle.

The best analogy I can think of for a piggyback is that it's like driving a car with one person operating the pedals another moving the gearstick and wheel. You might get where you want to eventually but it'll be disjointed.

thanks for the perspective -
if there are any others with input it would be welcomed - thanks for CarAbuser's perspective.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

greetings,
the bms website states:
"The RB upgraded PCV uses only Genuine OEM core PCV Valves offering the absolute best performance and quality."

does this mean the rb pcv valve is using bmw oem plastic parts that are prone to failure on n54's?

https://burgertuning.com/collections...ment-pcv-valve

Oh ok interesting. But for the prone to failure point, I must say I haven't really found a thread that like, shows a failed PCV valve only. Then again I assume maybe because most people will go through a valve cover replacement at one point which includes a new PCV valve. The PCV system of the N54 is built in the valve cover as well.

I had installed the RB valve on my last car when I started doing my mods for MHD stage2+ but this time around I think I'll skip it to see. Although don't get me wrong if you have higher power goals I assume it's a requirement. Reading older threads some say it leaks but it's tough to like quantify that or measure that IMO.

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Oh ok interesting. But for the prone to failure point, I must say I haven't really found a thread that like, shows a failed PCV valve only. Then again I assume maybe because most people will go through a valve cover replacement at one point which includes a new PCV valve. The PCV system of the N54 is built in the valve cover as well.

I had installed the RB valve on my last car when I started doing my mods for MHD stage2+ but this time around I think I'll skip it to see. Although don't get me wrong if you have higher power goals I assume it's a requirement. Reading older threads some say it leaks but it's tough to like quantify that or measure that IMO.

thanks very much -
my concern is that a failing pcv valve will over-pressure the internals and cause oil leaks which could be VERY expensive to repair.

i will gladly spend the $56 for the all aluminum pcv valve in an effort to prevent an over-pressure condition.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

thanks very much -
my concern is that a failing pcv valve will over-pressure the internals and cause oil leaks which could be VERY expensive to repair.

i will gladly spend the $56 for the all aluminum pcv valve in an effort to prevent an over-pressure condition.

Yeah seen that way it's not that expensive of a part and I guess falls under preventive maintenance which is what I like to lol.

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by CarAbuser

These are the only parts I would stick with:
BMS Chargepipe (1)
BMS Chargepipe Clip (1)
BMS Chargepipe Gasket (1)
BMS Spark Plug Socket (1)
Verocious Motorsports 3.5mm Silicone Vacuum Hose (red is a bit ricey but doesn't cost any extra!) (1)

If your plans are just FBO then stick with OE plugs, coils and the stock diverter valves. Just make sure your valve cover is in good shape, no need for aftermarket PCV stuff.

JB+ and JB4 are old tech, no longer useful, they are inferior to proper ECU tunes and negatively impact the driveability of the car. Use MHD instead.

Keep the stock cowl, keeps water out better.

Best to save your money and put it towards proper maintenance or actual performance mods rather than having a colour coded ricer engine bay.

https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1769848
here is 5 pages re the jb+ software plug & play for perspective.

it is most unfortunate that a choice of color for a tial q50mm bov could or would provoke such a childish response relating to engine bay preferences.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1769848
here is 5 pages re the jb+ software plug & play for perspective.

it is most unfortunate that a choice of color for a tial q50mm bov could or would provoke such a childish response relating to engine bay preferences.

Colour choice, baking, burbles etc are all subjective,

Some people see it as a waste of money and gimmicky, others don't. Personally agree with CarAbuser, wouldn't want to remove the cowl and risk water damage or use colourful BOVs, prefer the stealth sleeper look DV

[jeffbroc335i]

Originally Posted by racerbruce

thanks very much -
my concern is that a failing pcv valve will over-pressure the internals and cause oil leaks which could be VERY expensive to repair.

i will gladly spend the $56 for the all aluminum pcv valve in an effort to prevent an over-pressure condition.

Noobie trying to understand this stuff. Pretty sure my 2013 335i needs a new PCV valve. Pix here look more like catch can. How did you replace PCV?

Thank you!