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DIY - Clown nose blinking LED
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10-18-2006, 06:15 PM | #89 | |
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If you are still having troubles double check your connections: if there is a dot on a diagramm -- it is connected, if no dot -- no connection. |
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11-14-2006, 10:12 AM | #90 |
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Yea i wish someone down in houton was able to help me out who can preform this, im clueless with this nad dont want to risk messing it up, id pay if anyones interested
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12-03-2006, 02:23 PM | #91 |
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someones gota wana make a buck! There would be many buyers of this! im simply not confortable with this task, but would easily pay for the piece so I can pup it in and connect a few wires...
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12-28-2006, 12:58 PM | #93 | |
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12-30-2006, 02:02 AM | #94 |
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Hi msinfo,
I tried the original circuit you described but I'm only getting ~3v going to the LED when ON and 0.1V when OFF... Any hints? Here is what I'm using: - 12v source - 12v LED - R1 4.7-10K - R2 4.7-10K - R3 10-20K - C1 1000uF 16V - 555 Timer (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Pr...roduct=2761723) - D1 50V 1A 1N4001 (http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/pr...roduct=2761101) I think everything is connected right since I was able to use R3 to set the threshold (I tested with 12V and was getting ON/OFF and with 5V it was just OFF) and use R1 and R2 to adjust the frequency. Thanks, JZ P.s. I'm no electronic expert, but I'm willing to learn |
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12-30-2006, 10:16 PM | #95 |
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Before I answer your question please keep in mind that the timer I am using is 555CP. You are using 555CN. There is possible variation (should not be a major one but your measurements might be slightly different) in a threshold value, current and voltage requirements. I did few quick tests using 9v battery (actual reading 9.48V) and it produced 8.4V to LED and 8.5V to pin 8 (after D1 and R3). Try the following troubleshooting steps:
1. Make sure if C1 is polarized (has assigned + and ground) you did not put it in a wrong way. 2. Put R3 in a minimum resistance position (all the way to the right or left depending on your implementation) to supply max V to the circuit for testing purpose. 3. Make sure R1 and R2 are NOT in minimum resistance position. Try MAX resistance for testing purpose. 4. Disconnect LED and use multimeter to take a V reading (depends on type of LED and your power source there might be a drop in source V/A when LED is ON that will explain drop in V out) 5. Take V measurements on R3 out pin/before D1 and after D1. V drop on a timer (V to the LED) should be within 0.1-0.5V max. Let me know your V readings in each step it should help us to pin point the problem. PS By original circuit I assume you meant circuit from page one of this thread. |
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12-30-2006, 11:41 PM | #96 |
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Thanks msinfo,
You are right, I'm using the diagram from page 1... I'll try the latest setup when I get the parts for it. I'm now using a 9V source giving 8.99V (must bet getting old) The Cap was connected correctly, by chance After step 4, I'm getting 7.35V (a good jump, but not sure if it is enough to light the LED) 5. I'm getting 7.35V on one side of the D and 8V on the other Using a 12V (an old computer PSU) I'm getting 10.10V to the LED when ON and 0.11V when OFF Ok... done more testing and the light is now blinking (I had the LED connected in reverse ) I'll work on the timing and go put it in the car after... Thanks |
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12-31-2006, 12:07 AM | #97 |
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You are welome. Good job and congrats!
PS Try version two if you feel you need more brightness from LED/want more precise control. Personally I think version one is bright enough. But that is just me. |
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05-03-2007, 01:56 PM | #98 |
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TLC555CP operating temperature
Hi msinfo_us - I noticed that the specs on the timer chip say that the minimum temperature is 32F. I am guessing that it works find in freezing temperatures, at least at the frequency and duty cycle that we need for this application? THANKS MUCH!
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05-03-2007, 04:40 PM | #99 |
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You are absolutely correct. In this implementation any variation in parameters are practically negligible -- for a example you'd have to be a superhuman to notice 1/100 of a second variation with 1 second and above duty cycle.
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05-03-2007, 06:43 PM | #101 |
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I'm trying this...Can't find all the damn parts at Radioshack. The C1 I have is much bigger also. I don't have the R3 or TLC555 timer. Anyone have spares to send me? (C1, R3, timer)
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05-03-2007, 07:27 PM | #102 | |
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It show "in stock" here http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2062595&cp
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05-05-2007, 10:57 PM | #103 |
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I attempted this project today, but ran into a few snags.
A couple of questions/observations for msinfo_us: 1) c1 (1000uf 50v) - the item is too big. Did you use a different one? 2) How do you know what resistor is 10k? The package comes with 100 resistors of different types. None of them are labeled. 3) Where can you find 20-30K for R3? It is not in the bundle mentioned. Thanks for all your help on this DIY!! Great Work!! |
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05-05-2007, 11:23 PM | #104 |
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Using the following:
- R1 4.7-10K - R2 4.7-10K - R3 10-20K - C1 1000uF 16V You will get: Time On = .693*(R1+R2)*C1 = 6 to 14 seconds Time Off = .693*R2*C1 = 3 to 6 seconds Frequency = 1/(0.693*(R1+2*R2)*C1) This doesnt seem like it will be even close to the OEM spec. Using the other circuit mentioned, you get: R1 = 100 Ohms R2 = 3*10^6 Ohms = 3M Ohms C1 = .22 mF = 220 * 10^-6 F = 220 uF Then: Time On = .693*(R1+R2)*C1 = 457 seconds Time Off = .693*R2*C1 = 457 seconds Frequency = 1/(0.693*(R1+2*R2)*C1) = .0011 Hz Which also is totally off. So for those of you who built these circuits and got it to work properly, I'm very surprised. In fact, I'd like to hear back from someone who actually used the specs provided in this post and was successful. To answer the question regarding figuring out the ohms of resistors, use the following color chart: http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html |
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05-06-2007, 11:49 AM | #105 | |
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PS I just realized that I keep mistyping uF and mF again even in my second diagram. C1 supposed to be 0.1 - 0.5uF
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05-06-2007, 12:22 PM | #106 | ||
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If you don't have 20-30K POT you can use regular resistors sequentially with POT at hand like this for example: + power to ---20K resistor to ---10K POT to ----D1. I'd recommend to start with just a 10K POT and add another 10K resistor if it is not enough than increase it until you get to the desired threshold. Let me know what do you have at hand and I’ll try to help you to choose a combo that will work.
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05-06-2007, 08:25 PM | #108 |
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I am sorry if this is confusing. All that is discussed in last few posts is duty cycle and corresponding values of R1, R2 and C1. The relation between R1, R2, C1 changes how long LED stays On and Off. The only point here is that you can use the same values I did or you can choose your own -- it does not really matter. I'd only stay away from very low values for R1 and R2. Otherwise you can experiment (or not if you choose to) as much as you want to using formulas above (Please note I did not check if formulas are accurate I just assumed that OP did his research) or just experiment with parts at hand.
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05-08-2007, 09:53 PM | #109 |
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A couple of questions/observations for msinfo_us:
1) Is it possible to create another wire diagram over a picture that is finished? Over the picture you did that allows you to adjust for brightness, like the one you did on page 1. 2) Can you tell me which direction the positive and negative point to for the led, pot, diode, etc? Thanks, again! |
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05-08-2007, 10:10 PM | #110 | |
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JJP I thought you are building timer version one based on your picture above -- did you finish it and now want to try another version?
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