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      11-21-2017, 05:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Hmm yes your situation is a tad difficult having outlayed cash you dont want to outlay more $ for the same thing. But in the grand scheme of things if the RB outlet did wear through you'd have paid labour twice to get it repaired and may pay more for a custom one off hardpipe

Definately would be good to see how their outlets are holding up



I was thinking the complete length with a silicon joiner to the FMIC. Since I currently have an AMS FMIC (unsure if I should upgrade this when doing upgraded turbos) obviously this would be slightly different for wagner VRSF ADE etc etc. (would need to investigate this further to see what silicon joiners would be required and where to end the hard pipe.

I agree re the standard coolant tank, i wouldnt want to relocate it..
@Hoper, did you have this problem?
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      11-21-2017, 06:47 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
I was thinking the complete length with a silicon joiner to the FMIC. Since I currently have an AMS FMIC (unsure if I should upgrade this when doing upgraded turbos) obviously this would be slightly different for wagner VRSF ADE etc etc. (would need to investigate this further to see what silicon joiners would be required and where to end the hard pipe.

I agree re the standard coolant tank, i wouldnt want to relocate it..
I would suggest ending the hard pipe in the same position as the standard aluminium outlet. From there, silicone adapters can be used to attach to 2.5" or 3" IC inlets.
I agree. Or make the hard pipe the longest that it needs to be to suit the shortest FMIC outlet - that way, the hard pipe just needs to be cut for FMICS that don't require it to be as long. I think that's a similar approach to one of the silicone offerings.
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      11-21-2017, 07:48 PM   #25
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I agree. Or make the hard pipe the longest that it needs to be to suit the shortest FMIC outlet - that way, the hard pipe just needs to be cut for FMICS that don't require it to be as long. I think that's a similar approach to one of the silicone offerings.
The only issue I foresee with that is I would have thought the end would need to have a bead on it to help prevent the hose popping off? (the bead would be cut off if the pipe needed to be trimmed to suit)
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      11-21-2017, 08:10 PM   #26
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I agree. Or make the hard pipe the longest that it needs to be to suit the shortest FMIC outlet - that way, the hard pipe just needs to be cut for FMICS that don't require it to be as long. I think that's a similar approach to one of the silicone offerings.
The only issue I foresee with that is I would have thought the end would need to have a bead on it to help prevent the hose popping off? (the bead would be cut off if the pipe needed to be trimmed to suit)
True. I've seen when cutting is required then so is re-lipping. The easier solution to end the hard pipe where the OE pipe finishes is probably better.
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      11-22-2017, 01:25 AM   #27
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The only issue I foresee with that is I would have thought the end would need to have a bead on it to help prevent the hose popping off? (the bead would be cut off if the pipe needed to be trimmed to suit)
I agree Shane.
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      11-22-2017, 02:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135 View Post
True. I've seen when cutting is required then so is re-lipping. The easier solution to end the hard pipe where the OE pipe finishes is probably better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
I agree Shane.
Thanks for the feedback guys
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      11-22-2017, 03:45 AM   #29
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Thanks for the feedback guys
hi i want a set for pure stage 2 dd if the price is right
thanks!
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      11-22-2017, 03:55 AM   #30
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I tried Vargas ones and it was not safe and too dangerous on my z4. Waiting on Mike from N54 tuning to see if he can refund me after claiming tgey were ok. Otherwise I will have to sell mine....
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      11-22-2017, 03:57 AM   #31
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hi i want a set for pure stage 2 dd if the price is right
thanks!
OK cheers!

I'll discuss it with him and try and aim for around $500-700 ea. Does that price sound reasonable for you guys?
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      11-22-2017, 05:22 AM   #32
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OK cheers!

I'll discuss it with him and try and aim for around $500-700 ea. Does that price sound reasonable for you guys?
thats AUD yea? sure i will take it..,
how much is the shipping to hong kong
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      11-22-2017, 05:53 AM   #33
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thats AUD yea? sure i will take it..,
how much is the shipping to hong kong
Sorry I dont have a product to offer yet just a possible concept.

Just trying to gauge what the going price would be that you guys deem fair, then I'll have a chat to the fabricator and say how about we do say 4 pipes $2000 AUD and see what he says

Id take a guess that it wouldnt be until jan/feb 2018 at the earliest also
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      11-22-2017, 06:23 PM   #34
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Hi Guys,
My RB outlets were for stock frame turbos and according to Robs email they are a smaller diameter, not sure if that is everywhere or only in certain places

Where Coupes had the issue with the coolant tank his definitely looked to be larger or have a bulge in that area in the photos, where mine just ran along the frame rail out of the way

It was a real PITA getting the outlets around the steering column and not rubbing, i had to adjust the rear outlet 3 or 4 times on the turbo to get it to come out at the correct angle, from memory i had to make it push hard up against the firewall

I can't feel any obvious resistance or vibration through my steering, I don't "think" its rubbing but it was very tight

I also followed Brules advice and had a go at the heat sheilding with a hammer to make sure it was flush with all of the body work just to find an extra mm or 2

I also def had to tie the rear outlet to frame near the steering column to keep it out of the way, drilled a hole in my steering column by accident

I'll have a good look at the outlets again this weekend and take some pics

I'm slightly interested in a metal version but pretty poor at the moment so couldn't commit, I'll keep watch and jump in if I can find funds when you're closer to ordering Dr J
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      11-22-2017, 07:08 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Sorry I dont have a product to offer yet just a possible concept.

Just trying to gauge what the going price would be that you guys deem fair, then I'll have a chat to the fabricator and say how about we do say 4 pipes $2000 AUD and see what he says

Id take a guess that it wouldnt be until jan/feb 2018 at the earliest also
haha yea i know... pricing sounds good though
i will see if i can get a quote to have it made in china as well...

i am collecting parts to put on the car while replacing my turbos so the earlier i can get the outlets the better

thanks!
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      11-22-2017, 07:12 PM   #36
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Did anyone also buy the optional RB Heat Shield and would anyone have photo's of it mounted please? Thanks...
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      11-22-2017, 07:33 PM   #37
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this guys has rhd and rb outlets, they seem to fit better than coupes? (might be a oem turbo setup - Ive just had a quick look at one of the pics)

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...5LQXJhV0Rwb2tR
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      11-22-2017, 07:36 PM   #38
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This guy made up some nice shields

After installing the VTTO Turbo Kit with their own Silicone hoses (Purchased seperately but is actually for this application) I’ve realized that there is a great risk of contact of the front turbine’s hose to the exhaust manifold. (see pictures) I was concerned about the possible damage to the hose over prolonged use. So I’ve created this solution which also eases the problem of exhaust manifold heating the silicone hose that comes out of compressor housing.

This way I’ve managed to ease up the load on the intercooler as well. First I prepared the back plate and after ensuring proper fitment I’ve used thermal isolation material on both sides just to be sure.
While solving my concern, I’ve also addressed the issue of better cold air channeling to the air filters by using a similar plate design, roughly isolating the air filters from the engine bay’s heat. Note that the bonnet vents at far right side is reversed for better use of this new DIY cold air box. (see pictures)

Overall, I managed to drop the intake air tempratures while ensuring a safer solution for the silicone hose. This drop in the IAT allowed me to gain a little more than 10bhp and far better throttle response over prolonged use on trackdays. Keeping the exhaust housing of the turbines (hot side) at relatively consistent hot tempratures (they are isolated together with the exhaust manifold) also gave me the chance of much better spool.
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      11-22-2017, 08:14 PM   #39
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Thanks Dr J. My heat shield is very similar to this, just a bit shorter in length vertically. I am going to have it heat coated too...
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      11-23-2017, 04:13 AM   #40
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Did anyone also buy the optional RB Heat Shield and would anyone have photo's of it mounted please? Thanks...
The heat shield is hard to see with everything else in the way but here are a couple of photos.

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      11-23-2017, 04:28 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupes33 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montye90 View Post
Did anyone also buy the optional RB Heat Shield and would anyone have photo's of it mounted please? Thanks...
The heat shield is hard to see with everything else in the way but here are a couple of photos.

Attachment 1726091
Attachment 1726092
Attachment 1726093
What's behind the heat shield? Is it just the washer bottle filler? If that's all it is maybe replace and relocate?
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      11-23-2017, 04:30 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
this guys has rhd and rb outlets, they seem to fit better than coupes? (might be a oem turbo setup - Ive just had a quick look at one of the pics)

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...5LQXJhV0Rwb2tR
Yes Shane, I believe the OEM turbo outlets are smaller as Hoper says. I have tried a couple of different things to get the outlet off the steering shaft without any success. I am completely sick of it at the moment. I have never in all of the years that I have been modifying cars seen anything like this. The main reason as I see it for the 60* bend pushing up against the steering shaft besides the size is that after going under the shaft, it bends over the 50mm lip caused by the chassis rail and down to the turbo. In the area of this lip, there is so much force on the outlet that the bottom is flattened out. So the length of outlet from the bend to the turbo is trying to straighten and as the turbo end cannot move, it is the bend that is forced up against the shaft. I have tried zip ties and even a strip of 25mm x 3mm steel in an attempt to force the outlet away from the shaft without success.

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I received the M3 steering shaft today as well. I am going to give it a break over the next few days and watch some Supercars, F1, Golf, Ashes and Rugby League. After 3 weeks of stuffing around with this, I need some RNR.
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      11-23-2017, 04:39 AM   #43
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Do you think the M3 part will give you the clearance you need? May I ask how much they charged you for it?

Also I was thinking with a one piece hardpipe would this make fitment a real bastard (silicon is bendy which kinda adds in fitting?) would the hardpipe need a flex joint or possibly split in two with a silicon joiner?
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      11-23-2017, 01:40 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Do you think the M3 part will give you the clearance you need? May I ask how much they charged you for it?

Also I was thinking with a one piece hardpipe would this make fitment a real bastard (silicon is bendy which kinda adds in fitting?) would the hardpipe need a flex joint or possibly split in two with a silicon joiner?
The M3 steering shaft was $150 = $35 freight. You would certainly need a silicone joint somewhere along the rear turbo pipe similar to the OEM item.
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