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      11-13-2010, 10:17 AM   #1
FadyDizzle
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2011 33xi lease w/ a CTS return, need help - dealers too

Hi all,

Need some advice (hence why I'm also asking dealers, this may happen more often than I think). I ordered a 2011 335xi early Oct and it's already here, I was hoping it wouldn't arrive until later as I have a 2008 CTS coming off lease late Jan 2011. Well, here's the deal, I have 2 payments left on the CTS and I am as of today, 5k mi under (which are refundable to me by Cadillac if I return the car on time). Therefore, to put the math in numbers:

2 x $634/mo = $1,268 - $750 mileage refund (assuming I drive 0 mi, just hypothetically) = $518.

This $518 net payment would increase $182 to insure both cars simultaneously if I pick up the 335xi early. So, 1st swap/termination option, keeping both cars, will cost me approx $700.

My other option would be to keep the BMW on the lot and pick it up in 2 months, this would cost the dealer insurance and floorplan costs, not sure how much (dealers maybe chime in) and then I just drive my CTS. I won't compare the cost of this since it would basically be the $1,268 for the CTS payments but the first option above doesn't take into account the BMW payments that would start.

So, if I say the 2nd option to a dealer, maybe they will want to get me to pick up the car earlier (they originally said oh you can pick it up when you're ready, but that was to make the sale I'm sure). So, what do you think a dealership would do to get me into my BMW sooner? Would they be willing to take the CTS off my hands without charging me the full price of the remaining payments? For example, does it ever happen where they are like ok, we'll pay off the rest and just increase your price $500 and spread it over the lease term? It sucks that it's a totally different brand

Here's the complete wild card though. Since I drove like 60k mi on the CTS, I think my tire wear is high, so if I do option 1 and keep the car till the end, I feel like Cadillac may charge me an arm and a leg on tire wear (other wear is minimal, not afraid of charges based on the lease return guide). Because of this wildcard, I figure, if BMW takes the car and I don't have to worry about potential wear and tear, maybe that's the best option.

Sorry for the REALLY long winded explanation but I hope if you read this much, you know my dilemma and can chime in with any help, experience, or advice. Thanks!
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      11-13-2010, 11:05 AM   #2
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I was in a similar situation... I was driving a nice 08 accord coupe v6 manual (which I dearly loved and was crazy fast... 85% of 335i) and it was lease. the lease was up on 2/2011 and I had 4 monthes to go... I was paying around 500$ a month for it. (no down, first month free, 500$ per month, 15000 mi/yr)

I then accidentally read about CPO BMW 335i in caranddriver.com and was HOOKED to the car, a must have. I went to the dealer and told them I was shopping early so that I could get a car way before the time was up...

since there was 4 months to go on my lease, there was still $2000 left on the payment for my honda. I basically told the dealer I'll get a 335i IF YOU CAN TAKE MY CAR AND THE PAYMENT. the dealer told me if I am willing to split up the cost and put that 1000 on 335i they would be willing. I dealed a 30,000 internet priced 335i for 28000 before everything, (07 black sapphire / navi / sport pkg / premium pkg with 25000 miles, no HPFP issues and only scheduled maintainence) so it became 29000 before taxes, fees, etc.

it worked for me... since my car had few dings and small cracks on the bumper AND was over mileged (projected would have been 5000 or more) I probably owed honda some money... A lot of money probably...! but the dealer was willing to work with me and took care of the car, fixed it, sent $2000 to honda and I was worry free from that lease on oct.2010. (last month)

Way I see it, I probably saved good 3000 or more on this deal since the leased car was dinged up, over mileaged and therefore a liability. I got the car for a fair price, If not super low, so I am happy.

so long story short, why dont you ask if you can trade the car in to your dealer? dealers can work things if they want to... since you already ordered I guess that means you already bought the car so I dont know if ball is in your court or not but you might be able to work something out with the dealer since you are their customer who just bought a pretty expensive car.. see if they can "take care" of it for you. I am SURE that they can... at least lessen the expense for you. tell them you know that they can... that you just spend 55000K for them. at least they should be able to split the cost and put it in your payment so you dont have to spend any lumpsum cash...

good luck!!
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      11-13-2010, 11:37 AM   #3
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Did you sign the sales order with financing etc. stipulated? If not, go for the swap.
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      11-13-2010, 11:50 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtural View Post
Did you sign the sales order with financing etc. stipulated? If not, go for the swap.
Kurtural, what do you mean the sales order? I only signed the order form to custom build the car and I put down the $1k deposit. I gave them my credit info and got approved (its a lease). So, I don't think I signed a sale order. I think they would really value me as a customer and do something because I already referred someone to them (not sure if he bought, but I may have another referral coming too). Way I see it, is we can play chicken and I can let the car sit on their lot, with them paying floorplan and insurance, not sure how much it costs, but I know they want to get cars off their lot as quick as possible. So maybe they're willing to work something out? The deal was already a knockout any way I calculate it (and I calculated it pretty well, I'm a CPA, maybe did my research TOO well lol). So I don't know if there is room to go, only room I see is now the holiday credit is available but the residual dropped 3% (and MF .00005 drop too). So calculation could be way different. Any thoughts?
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      11-13-2010, 12:14 PM   #5
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The deal is not done until you have that 2 foot long sheet with final price you pay/ or owe are printed. In that sheet it will have boxes for a car you are selling to them, liability insurance info., apr or money factor etc. That is your sales order with the out the door price. You would have done this with the Finance and Insurance guy at the shop. If you don't have the sales order go back and negotiate that you want out of the current lease and see what they can do.

This is a business transaction and the dealer would sell his mother for 2 cents. That is how valuable of a customer you are, so get your head in the right place.
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      11-13-2010, 12:32 PM   #6
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Thanks, will keep it in mind. I know at the end of the day, they won't do anything not profitable for them...however, I'll just try to get a mutually profitable transaction for both sides (i.e. less profitability for them so as to not get screwed myself). Will let you know how it pans out when all said and done.
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      11-13-2010, 05:58 PM   #7
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Of course it will work. You have the option of not accepting the car and walking out and taking your deposit with you.
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      11-13-2010, 06:08 PM   #8
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nope, I can't take deposit at this point lol, signed away the $1k cuz it was custom ordered
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