[snowty80]

Hello everyone!

Looking for some advice on an E93- 2009 335i - 6 SPD manual with just over 104k miles.



TLDR- Finding out you're on a raft out here with all the options... Not sure where to go based on my spot. Moneys not great 😅
A. Diagnosis assistance
B. Black Friday Deals for N54- Upgrade plan/options


Most recent maintenance from BMW-
No oil leaks, pan/head gaskets have been done. No walnut blasting that I know of.
Water pump done
Fuel Sending Unit done
Drive belts and tensioners replaced -
A/C, EVAP. And Blower.
Vacuum supply lines to both wastegates
Oil Pressure Sensor- was leaking



A. Diagnosis assistance
Finally got rid of the `08 328i, and got into a 2009 -E93.

Found one that is completely stock, with just over 100k miles. BMW maintained. Ive had it for about 2 months now, and after driving the car for a while, I'm happy with my decision.

There's a few things I wanted to bring up, some common that I've found on here already. While some of them are like needle in a haystack with the shear amount of posts...but God, some are so dated, I don't know what has changed in the past 3-10 years on these issues. Hoping someone can point me in the 2023 version of the right direction.


1.
When I purchased the car, didn't have a wastegate rattle, but it has developed it for a 1/4 second on charge down 3rd-2nd. And turning over or off you sometimes get a little patter.

I attempted to tight the wastegate actuator rod, and I didn't have a wrench to fit, and could find one at the time so I ended up making one. Worked okay, but was only able to get a half turn (granted, I didn't move anything, just stuffed my hand down to play with it).

I didn't seem notice a difference. It doesn't seem to get getting worse, and doesn't seem to effect power. Maybe a little more frequent?


Regardless, I ordered a set of wrenches that will be able to grab it better, and I'm hoping to try and get one full then out of it before doing much else to the turbos.
I'm not familiar enough with the car to know if it's the front or rear turbo from sitting in the car. Have a hard time catching it cause it's intermittent when I'm standing by it...


Have seen numerous fixes on it, but realistically the car has 100k miles so I intended them to be 🤷🏼 and planned to replace in the next year or so. And they may have been changed at

My questions are:

What life expectancy, realistically am I looking at here for the turbos? Should I plan to replace them in the next 5-10k. I am not as familiar with the turbo N54. And I'm trying to find out how to plan this, so I still have a car at the end of it.


My 328 lasted up to 220k with your common E90 issues. and I beat the shit out of it. Honestly. I just got rid of it, so I don't know how long it lasted, but I did all the maintenance on it from 70k.

2.
Half-Check engine at roughly 6500rpm.

This has happened twice. Both times when I decided to get on it, without going into DTC/TC OFF.

After shutting the car off, resets and back to normal. This is why the tuner is #1 on my list below. I don't have a way to really check for BMW fault codes, and id really like to be able to monitor what the F is going on, before I decide to put any money into it.

This hasn't happened since then, and I always let the oil warm up to around 200° F before going past 3-4000k rpm.

Previous owner brought the car in back in the beginning of the year, and the records show a 0030FF being thrown alongside a few others. Dealer replicated leak code and Half/ engine light at 3500. Vacuum line was cracked to the wastegate. They were replaced and the code didn't come back as far as the documents states (who truly knows....)

Advise on this?


3.
I have a slight squeak in the driver's side front tire at low speeds. Its intermittent, doesn't always happen. Brakes are new, sensors were replaced at 70k. Seems to be affected by turning the wheel one way or the other, and I believe it's to the left. (I always forget..)

I'm thinking bearings? I jacked it up briefly and spun the wheel and checked for play, not much play in the wheel itself and when I spun it, I did hear it but couldn't pin it to anything.

Time for new tires so maybe... Tires?


B.
Upgrade plan for the end of the year: (Black Friday deals anyone knows about?)



Overview:
1. JB4 vs. MHD -

2. Intake - DCI vs. CA

3. Downpipes -


I do my own work. Want to actually get this car to a point where I can feel more confident in the build.


1. Tuner:JB4 vs. MHD

I emailed MHD, and asked if they were doing a Black Friday deal, and they said yes. I'm just waiting for them to release what it will be. Because I am trying to save as much as possible cracking this thing open trying to prepare for anything.

I've seen people go back and forth on this a million times and I'm leaning towards the MHD - wireless route, because I do love to functionality with the other softwares. But if I can find a JB4 in the meantime for super cheap, this would be perfect for me to dive into tuning for the first time.

The main thing i want to do is be able to read any current and stored BMW codes, as well as just be able to have gauges to explain more about the current running conditions.

Finding any deals on new JB4, is looking like $400, and MHD before their sale, I found chip+licence for $300.

2. Intake - DC vs. CI.
At pretty much the same time as the Tuner, I'd like to get an upgraded intake to increase some of that air going to the wastegates and see what that will do for it.

Cones are cheap, was going to grab ARM/VRSF, whenever I have a decent monitoring system.

As my priority right now is to sort out if I have a little problem or BIG problems. I've had time to read what some people have said about Cold Air intakes.

I'm open to suggestions on both sides. But my main focus is efficiency and increasing lifespan of the car in general..

3. Downpipes/Charge pipe-

I don't plan to really add any major tunes to the car until. I get to these. I want to know if it makes sense to buy a cheaper cattless set of downpipes, and keep my OEMs for when I need emissions. (I'm in Arizona, so it's every 2 years).

If it's an easy swap back and forth on this, cattless is the way I plan to run.

If not, what cheaper options do they have on this? I'm finding the upgraded catted pipes are super pricey.





Thank you in advance for my help here. I'm going back to Google now that I've spent over an hour writing this. Haha


Happy to be joining the 335i community!

🫡

[StradaRedlands]

Great questions! I've got no answers but am looking forward to responses! Great find on the MT... becoming few and far between!
Pics?

[snowty80]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Great questions! I've got no answers but am looking forward to responses! Great find on the MT... becoming few and far between!
Pics?

Got only a couple 😂

[StradaRedlands]

Great grip to hold on sideways like that!!!!

[spazzz]

Headlight sanding and applying XPel ppf might earn a slot on your list.

For a quick remedy, Meguiar's Ultimate compound and a microfiber towel will remove a lot of the oxidation.

I did my daughters E92 a bit ago and the contour of the headlight wasn't bad at all to wrap.

[snowty80]

Originally Posted by spazzz

Headlight sanding and applying XPel ppf might earn a slot on your list.

For a quick remedy, Meguiar's Ultimate compound and a microfiber towel will remove a lot of the oxidation.

Oh, it's on that list. I was set back quite a bit with a "forced relocation".

Now that shit isn't so crazy. I'm trying to do everything meant to do initially ..

[lowrydr310]

I recently made the move from N52 --> N54 and went through the same thing, reading a lot of forum posts where many of them are a well over a decade old. Most of the maintenance related posts are fine but a majority of the performance related posts are horribly outdated.

For example, the decision between JB4 and MHD. JB was awesome back in the day when the DME was locked, but theres virtually no need for it any more. Some folks are using them for methanol, but realistically if you're picking one thing to do in 2023 there's nothing easier than MHD. Cheaper, faster to install, easier to install, and easily reversible. I actually just flashed it on my car today and I'm very pleased. Even the stage 1 tune for trash CA 91 octane is a very noticeable increase over stock power levels.

Also MHD will give you details of any error codes you're having including that half engine light. My guess is that it's a 30FF boost error. You said the vacuum lines to the waste gates were replaced, do you know if it was just the short pieces from the boost solenoids to the wastegates? If so, there are a lot more vacuum lines that could be cracked. MHD also has a software-based wastegate rattle fix that you can try.

As for intakes and downpipes, you shouldn't worry much about that yet. The OEM air box is plenty sufficient for big power on the stock turbos. DCIs let you hear the turbo sounds and barely improve performance if at all. Catless downpipes are cool if you live in a place that doesn't have emissions inspections, but even then you should prioritize maintenance and suspension above all that.

You didn't mention the state of your plugs and coils. These engines are rough on spark plugs compared to the N52 so if you don't have any history of having them replaced recently you should look into that. Some say replace coils too, but I personally run them until they fail.

[snowty80]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

I recently made the move from N52 —> N54 and went through the same thing, reading a lot of forum posts where many of them are a well over a decade old. Most of the maintenance related posts are fine but a majority of the performance related posts are horribly outdated.

For example, the decision between JB4 and MHD. JB was awesome back in the day when the DME was locked, but theres virtually no need for it any more. Some folks are using them for methanol, but realistically if you're picking one thing to do in 2023 there's nothing easier than MHD. Cheaper, faster to install, easier to install, and easily reversible. I actually just flashed it on my car today and I'm very pleased. Even the stage 1 tune for trash CA 91 octane is a very noticeable increase over stock power levels.

Also MHD will give you details of any error codes you're having including that half engine light. My guess is that it's a 30FF boost error. You said the vacuum lines to the waste gates were replaced, do you know if it was just the short pieces from the boost solenoids to the wastegates? If so, there are a lot more vacuum lines that could be cracked. MHD also has a software-based wastegate rattle fix that you can try.

As for intakes and downpipes, you shouldn't worry much about that yet. The OEM air box is plenty sufficient for big power on the stock turbos. DCIs let you hear the turbo sounds and barely improve performance if at all. Catless downpipes are cool if you live in a place that doesn't have emissions inspections, but even then you should prioritize maintenance and suspension [...]

I am planning to do oil, plugs and coils when I have driven it 4-5k. I'm at like 3300.

I've also grabbed a few pieces for a kit to do a walnut blast on the valves.

Had the initial plan was to stay stock and maintain as much service through BMW for record. But it's too expensive to justify on a 100k+ mile car.

I've done all my maintenance and replace work on 3 different vehicles. So the plan is now to just do it myself. Especially in light of Black Friday coming up, I'm sure I can snag some pretty good deals if I take my time to look.



I have to agree. With my research I've done, the MHD chip is just better for the N54.
If you know anywhere I can get a license for a deal let me know.



And as for the limp, I'm thinking you're right on the 0030FF, but with the way the car drives, it maintains a consistent power level. Even at multiple different temperatures because I live in Arizona.

I have to suspect HPFP since I have no record of that being changed.

I requested info on service history from a shop that seemed to replace just about everything but. But it was back in like 2017/2018, so I'm not going to hold my breath on that. What was verified for that service at 58,000 was, injectors, water pump, coils, and plugs.

Cause I suspect that service was extensive and under a warranty and I just wanted to see if they could tell me which one..



I appreciate the response!

[snowty80]

Update - ** Attempt to replicate-

Brought it out this morning, got oil temps up around 200°, and Did a W.O.T pull redlining 1st, 2nd, and on 3rd I was only able to reach 5500 rpm. I even smacked the limiter for 1st and 2nd a little to see if I could notice anything.

I always have noticed significant boost reduction past 5500rpm in any TT car I've been familiar with. Is this the same for the 335?

When the issue happened previously, I believe I was in 2nd to 3rd.

Happened twice in a span of 2 days or so.

After it happened again on the highway at a high rpm pull I was maybe thinking fuel pump. I don't have any cranking issues, but on a cold start this morning I was paying close attention to the sounds and it did crank for about a full second before turning over.

I have heard of people's HPFP getting ready to go out of that half engine comes on around +-6000rp and a drop in power/limp.




Shit. Just waiting for MHD to release their BF deals as JB4 just doesn't make any sense unless I find one for like $60 .


Looking into coils and plugs as well just to switch em out.

[unrealii]

congrats! a manual e93 is a great find!

Definitely do plugs and coils
you need a charge pipe if increasing boost
recommended to get an intercooler. I did VSRF stepped one - I didn't spend a lot on it
I also did inlets and kept stock airbox but added K&N filter.
I run MHD.
Few areas to look at a car this old - oil filter housing gasket. Definitely do not want this leaking then the belt throws oil all over the engine bay. Also run risk of belt getting sucked into crank, so fix asap when it leaks. Also the valve cover is plastic, I had replaced mine 5 years into ownership due to oil and a crack. BMW supposedly redesigned the cyclonic PCV. If no excess oil in the intake, you should be okay.

Are the turbos original?

whenever you need to replace the motor mount or the clutch, use the 335is as reference. Those parts are slightly beefier.

[snowty80]

Originally Posted by unrealii

congrats! a manual e93 is a great find!

Definitely do plugs and coils
you need a charge pipe if increasing boost
recommended to get an intercooler. I did VSRF stepped one - I didn't spend a lot on it
I also did inlets and kept stock airbox but added K&N filter.
I run MHD.
Few areas to look at a car this old - oil filter housing gasket. Definitely do not want this leaking then the belt throws oil all over the engine bay. Also run risk of belt getting sucked into crank, so fix asap when it leaks. Also the valve cover is plastic, I had replaced mine 5 years into ownership due to oil and a crack. BMW supposedly redesigned the cyclonic PCV. If no excess oil in the intake, you should be okay.

Are the turbos original?

whenever you need to replace the motor mount or the clutch, use the 335is as reference. Those parts are slightly beefier.

Hell yeah, thank you.

I have no leaks that I can see. And I'm under the impression the turbos are original. I really won't know anything for sure until I spend some more time with my hands and eyes In it to get a better idea of the history.


Turbos feel strong. But the other reason the MHD is important is to just read the boost levels, and verify to myself that a tune wasn't on the car previous to me owning.

I am used to Non-turbo feels of pull and I can recognize my pulls vary slightly depending on whatever situation I guess I'm in.

Learning as I go.

[snowty80]

Update-

Bought these wrenches to try and get a good grab on the actuator arm. Worked perfectly after a little modification. Was able to get 1.5-2 turns in total out of it. Heard my little rattle on startup -- had my gf rev it for me and didn't hear anything in the driveway. Took it out, let him warm and then spent some more time in the Red zone.

Definitely hear the turbo more, kicks in a little later from what it feels. Feels stronger too..guessing tightening that mess with the boost and raised it a little bit.


Will update when I got some more time after tightening.


Thanks everyone!

[BRG_N54]

I would wager your half engine until shutting the car off and on are related to vanos solenoids. There is an extensive list if items to do in attempt to remedy:

1. Change oil with LL-01 spec and verify filter cage is in place.
   
2. Remove and clean/replace both vanos solenoids. Clear vanos adaptations.
   
3. Remove and clean/replace vanos check valves.

This process supersedes needing to replace cam ledges, so hopefully you can repair with any of the above. Also look at this service bulletin regarding this issue.

[CLEAN13BOOSTED]

Noticed MHD has the N54 and N55 Super License on sale!

[snowty80]

Originally Posted by BRG_N54

I would wager your half engine until shutting the car off and on are related to vanos solenoids. There is an extensive list if items to do in attempt to remedy:

Change oil with LL-01 spec and verify filter cage is in place.

Remove and clean/replace both vanos solenoids. Clear vanos adaptations.

Remove and clean/replace vanos check valves.


This process supersedes needing to replace cam ledges, so hopefully you can repair with any of the above. Also look at this service bulletin regarding this issue.

Appreciate this insight.

Thinking I'll just clean them at first. See how bad they are etc- then replace anyway.

This morning at temps 50-70° outside. I had some good pulls. Nothing crazy, but I was able to get 2 turns total on the actuator. they don't seem all that loose, but I didn't hear the rattle once today.

MHD posted a sale today. I'll try to get the girlfriend to buy that for me for Christmas 😂😂

Getting oil and plugs and those vanos solenoid is a brilliant piece of advice. So thank you for that !

[SlowE92]

Damn, no love for the JB4? As someone who has both, if you want the most power off the shelf then get the JB4. The MHD BEF is free and gets rid of the inconsistency that some people complain about.

[crashoverride]

Pretty obvious which wrench was used... lol

[snowty80]

Originally Posted by crashoverride

Pretty obvious which wrench was used... lol

Hahahah, they were just a mm or so too wide. Used my dremel, but they worked great after that 😂😅

[snowty80]

Originally Posted by SlowE92

Damn, no love for the JB4? As someone who has both, if you want the most power off the shelf then get the JB4. The MHD BEF is free and gets rid of the inconsistency that some people complain about.

No, I absolutely have heard nothing but good things from JB4. And I heard if money wasn't an object, having both is even beneficial..

Right now, like my original post was saying, only real reason for me at my stage with the car to get a JB4, is if I found one for around 50-70 bucks.


I think learning one, and becoming familiar with it is smart to start with the one that's more beneficial long-term.


My best deal adapter+license is 300 even. Well see how it works out

[Dfbpurcell]

i didnt read your post but heres the best way to spend your money on black friday:


jb4 is awesome but you are not at the point mod-wise where you need it

mhd wifi adapter (red)
mhd off the shelf tune
xhp off the shelf tune stage 3 NOT 4 if you are auto
dont bother with intake until you have:
downpipes
intercooler

choose the appropriate map based on your fueling and downpipe/intercooler combo

dual catch cans will be good for the car
then look at bigger inlets and outlets or turbos
cone filters on stock turbos are largely a useless upsell but are required when you get bigger inlet piping.
walnut blast.


wastegates can rattle as much as they want until they stop operating properly. could be at 20,000km could be at 200,000 km.