[DrRobert]

Car stalled going 0-10 MPH stuck in rush hour traffic on the freeway in the rain the other day. Happened twice. Luckily it started back up again after shutting off, and has been running fine for 2-3 days since then. Car is showing the following codes now:

2A61 - Ignition relay and injectors, supply voltage, fuel injection: line disconnection
2F44 - Ignition circuit, supply voltage: Bank failure or engine failure
371C - Relay, ignition and injection systems, activation: Short circuit to B+
2C90 - Blow-off valve: Jammed closed

Pretty sure 2C90 is tuning related as it has done that before (car has custom E25 tune, mods listed in Garage). But what do the other 3 codes mean? I did replace the plugs and coils recently, could it be related to that?

Appreciate any help and guidance anyone could provide!

[MysticRob]

I know squat about those specific codes but when I see multiple "voltage" related codes I immediately suspect the battery/charging system. So many odd problems occur on modern cars when the battery can't supply proper voltage to all systems (for whatever reason).

Case in point, I purchased a 2008 Escape Hybrid and got the "Stop Safely Now" message while in heavy traffic on the freeway. Took it to the dealership and had them read about 13 stored codes. Among the dozen odd and unrelated subsystem codes (even one for the ABS) was one for voltage regulation or some such error. Replaced the battery and never had another issue.

[DrRobert]

Originally Posted by MysticRob

I know squat about those specific codes but when I see multiple "voltage" related codes I immediately suspect the battery/charging system. So many odd problems occur on modern cars when the battery can't supply proper voltage to all systems (for whatever reason).

Case in point, I purchased a 2008 Escape Hybrid and got the "Stop Safely Now" message while in heavy traffic on the freeway. Took it to the dealership and had them read about 13 stored codes. Among the dozen odd and unrelated subsystem codes (even one for the ABS) was one for voltage regulation or some such error. Replaced the battery and never had another issue.

Battery is fairly new. Car starts right up now without problem, so I didn't think it was the battery. I've never replaced ignition coils before, wondering if it might have to do with the new coils. They are OEM Bosch coils.

[Pladi]

This could be an alternator issue or charging circuit. You need to start measuring voltages.. At the alternator and charging circuit. I suspect the battery is not charging. Check the battery voltage during idling and off..

[dsjr2006]

What does fairly new battery mean?

Check your coil connections and wiring maybe, but seems ground or power supply related, check wiring and ground straps.

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by DrRobert

Battery is fairly new. Car starts right up now without problem, so I didn't think it was the battery. I've never replaced ignition coils before, wondering if it might have to do with the new coils. They are OEM Bosch coils.

I recently replaced both battery and coils in my car. Both were original after 175k miles. So if your battery is fairly new as you say, I have a hard time believing it in and of itself is the culprit. Especially given your charging system should be adequate to keep your vehicle running once started.

If the coils were properly installed, they should not be causing you this problem. I’ve found it takes a bit of effort to get the coil connector harnesses fully seated, but there’s not much else to it. If you had one or even a few bad connections, I’d expect misfires but not outright stalling (and misfire codes, which you don’t have).

+1 on breaking out a multimeter and doing some testing.

If your multimeter has min/max function, hook it up to engine bay battery terminals (or actual battery if you want) with engine off and load test it by enabling min/max mode and starting your car. If your MIN voltage stays at or above ~9.6v then your battery is probably not the problem. Not to mention you say it starts fine etc, but it’s worth being sure if you have the tools. Note that minimum acceptable voltage during starting is also a function of ambient temp, so if it’s very cold where you are then slightly lower would be acceptable.

Once the car is running, make sure charging voltage is >14v. If it isn’t, I’d be looking at alternator/voltage regulator.

Good luck.

[DrRobert]

Originally Posted by dsjr2006

What does fairly new battery mean?

Check your coil connections and wiring maybe, but seems ground or power supply related, check wiring and ground straps.

Checked my records, battery is not as new as I remembered - it was replaced 2.5 yrs/40K miles ago!

Car continues to start up and run just fine. Don't want that to happen again though.

I will check the things you and the others suggested. Thanks all for the advice.

[Chris']

HI, i am showing some of those codes, specifically the 371 c and the 2f44
ignition circuit cylinder bank and relay ignition short circuit.

did you ever get to the bottom of it?

[DrRobert]

Yes I did. I took it to my indy BMW shop and they ran all kinds of diagnostics. Turned out it needed a new ignition relay, PN 61366915327. It is a $20 part but I recall that the ECU crashed when they swapped it out and it was a total PITA for them to get the car started again, I think they had to reprogram it with one of their special BMW electronic devices. So I was glad I didn't try to DIY it. But that was a week after my last post and it hasn't happened again since then. YMMV.

[Billy786]

My timing chain slipped so i replaced it, also replaced camshaft sensor both of them. Still getting chamshaft sensor coming up dont know why! Car start fine for a few times then it starts to crank for a long time until i clear the code. Now i the camshaft sensor keep coming and going and i dont understand why!