[trb1]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

According to vehicular diy the rod bearings on the N54 s65 have really tight clearances. The king bearings, that are STD, are set for .002. This gives slightly more clearance for thicker oil like 5w-40, which is probably better to run on a tuned engine IMO. More HP = more heat. A thicker oil will stand up better to higher heat. I believe the OEM clearance is .001.

Correct. They do have different tolerances. So IMO, it’s cheap insurance further down the road anyways. Allows for more room for error. People will bitch about this relentlessly forever. There’s no convincing everyone. Some people will have issues, some won’t. That doesn’t mean it isn’t an issue on this platform.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Dude I don't blame you at all these dam occ's can get confusing, I thought Turner had a great solution by plugging the pcv and deleting the flapper valve but my spidey senses are tingling and the more I read looks like that is NOT a good idea for a dd.... maybe for a track car. I just ordered RB's external kit and Mishimoto can and will convert the Turner can to high side

Let us know how the DIY goes. Maybe snap some pics. I think what makes a catch can used on high or low side depends on the filter. So, is the filter in the turner catch can similar to the one BMS sells?

Note: you can now buy the BMS can by itself on their website.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by trb1

Correct. They do have different tolerances. So IMO, it's cheap insurance further down the road anyways. Allows for more room for error. People will bitch about this relentlessly forever. There's no convincing everyone. Some people will have issues, some won't. That doesn't mean it isn't an issue on this platform.

I'm curious myself. I used 15k intervals up until a couple of years ago when I installed my tune. Now I use 7500 miles.

I always did an oil flush & always changed the filter out 1/2 through when doing the 15k intervals. I've always used Amsoil 5w-40

Now, I just do the oil flush. The filter is good for 7500 miles.

The car runs very well. Who knows. Time will tell when I pull that first cap off.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Let us know how the DIY goes. Maybe snap some pics. I think what makes a catch can used on high or low side depends on the filter. So, is the filter in the turner catch can similar to the one BMS sells?

Note: you can now buy the BMS can by itself on their website.

I sure will, I'll update the Turner OCC thread I started with results. I wasn't planning on doing the head port taps but the more time goes on the more I consider just ordering a new valve cover and gasket and getting it done right and outta the way for good. Not sure still cuz the gasket is holding strong right now, but I did just get a carbon blast...

Ya that's how it was explained to me, the Mishimoto can is 50 micron it says, which is a fine filter best for lower flow conditions whereas the BMS was intended for high flow on the high side. So the BMS can says it is double baffled, which you can see it under the cap. The Turner/ECS can is single baffled as it is all contained on the top portion, it says it is quad chambered which I'm not sure how the BMS can is. I would say the Turner can is for high flow for sure though.

https://burgertuning.com/products/bm...an-for-n54-bmw

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...dk/?pdk=AAAGAg

Originally Posted by trb1

Correct. They do have different tolerances. So IMO, it’s cheap insurance further down the road anyways. Allows for more room for error. People will bitch about this relentlessly forever. There’s no convincing everyone. Some people will have issues, some won’t. That doesn’t mean it isn’t an issue on this platform.

Knowing those tolerances is really nice, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside . I like some empirical data along with anecdotal if that's fair, and knowing it's down to .001" (I'm assuming inches) I would gladly swap out to the King .002" in time. We use .002" tolerance in my industry with balanced parts etc and a large amount of shrink with differing materials instead of expansion. I was never denying just wanted more details, thank you.

[trb1]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Knowing those tolerances is really nice, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside . I like some empirical data along with anecdotal if that's fair, and knowing it's down to .001" (I'm assuming inches) I would gladly swap out to the King .002" in time. We use .002" tolerance in my industry with balanced parts etc and a large amount of shrink with differing materials instead of expansion. I was never denying just wanted more details, thank you.

Here's a pretty cool PDF that king has posted:

https://www.kingbearings.com/wp-cont...tency-aera.pdf

[mweisdorfer]

After you change the rod bearings and start it up, how long would you wait to change the oil? I'm thinking the assembly lube will change the consistency of the oil. Much like you you have a "break in" oil on some cars. So, when you first buy the car, you change the oil at 1500 miles or something like that, and then you proceed to regular oil change intervals.

On a side note, I found a way to change the CBS oil change Interval in the display menu using tools32.

[B6T]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

Why on mt?

High load + low RPM is what is hardest on the bottom end. With an automatic, that decision is out of the hands of the driver, since the transmission will naturally downshift to the higher gear during typical high load scenarios. That's my theory on it at least.

Also, I'm pretty sure I toasted my #5 rod bearing because I was coming out of the corners on a lapping at at ~2300rpm on a stage 2+ map.

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'm thinking about doing the rod bearings. RB & I had a long conversation about it. He said to definitely plasti-gauge everyone of them. He also said to pull one cap off or two and see if there is excessive wear. You'd of course have to put new bolts up, if you did that. RB was of the opinion that one should look at their oil pressure, and if it was fine to leave well enough alone if pulling off a cap or two revealed little or no wear.

If you're going to go to all the effort of pulling one or two caps off to check... why wouldn't you just replace all the bearings? There is enough evidence to prove that these bearings are an issue in the N54. What happens if you don't check the badly-worn bearing in your partial inspection? IDK, seems like a waste of time to me to NOT change them. Getting to the bearings is like 90% of the work.

Oil pressure fluctuation is a good idea to track worn bearings, but differences in oil pressure can be from multiple factors, and a driver would probably become used to the fluctuation from those factors and oblivious to a change resultant from a bearing issue.

[mweisdorfer]

I'm in the process of putting in new Turbos. I bought Rob Beck OEM Billets.

I figured while I was in there, I might as well do the Rod Bearings being that I'm at 178,000 miles.

I just did my rod bearings today. I bought King Pin CR222SV Standard, the new updated rod bolts for the N54 & used Red Line Synthetic assembly lube.

On the pic of the Rod Bolt, the one to the left is the updated bolt.

I did plastigauge for every cylinder. Every one came out to .002. I'm pretty sure that's what they should spec out too... 🧐

I used 20nm then did 70 degrees, waited a minute and then did another 70 degrees, for torque specs.

I got those torque specs from TIS & Vehicular DIY.

The oil pan gasket I sandwiched the OEM gasket between two beads of Ultra Black and torqued all the small bolts to 8nm + 60 degrees, large bolts 8nm + 180 & the 3 steel bolts that pull the oil pan to the transmission 14#. This is all per Bentley Repair Manual.

The journals were perfect from what I could tell. Mirror like finish w/ no scratches. The rod bearings have seen better days. No copper showing, but you could absolutely run your finger nail across them and pic up resistance.

[SlimE92]

Every time I see a changed my rod bearings thread.

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by SlimE92

Every time I see a changed my rod bearings thread.

Better that than eating popcorn and ending up changing the entire engine.

[SlimE92]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Better that than eating popcorn and ending up changing the entire engine.

My point incase you missed it is that this might just turn into a replacing my entire engine thread.

Even the guy that he got his torque specs from, had his engine blow after he swapped the bearings....

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by SlimE92

My point incase you missed it is that this might just turn into a replacing my entire engine thread.

Even the guy that he got his torque specs from, had his engine blow after he swapped the bearings....

Idk how many miles he had on the new bearings before he went WOT. I know he changed his oil out right away. I don't think he wanted the break in grease in his oil. Not sure why? I know he said he didn't have the oil properly warmed up to 170 before he went WOT. In my engine, every single cylinder was at .002, which is what it's supposed to be according to King Pin.

Honestly, I'm gonna wait about 1000 miles or so and change the oil out. I'm going to try and keep it below 3500 rpm's for at least 500 miles or so. I'm not saying Vehicular DIY didn't do that. It's just what I'm going to do.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Idk how many miles he had on the new bearings before he went WOT. I know he changed his oil out right away. I don't think he wanted the break in grease in his oil. Not sure why? I know he said he didn't have the oil properly warmed up to 170 before he went WOT. In my engine, every single cylinder was at .002, which is what it's supposed to be according to King Pin.

Honestly, I'm gonna wait about 1000 miles or so and change the oil out. I'm going to try and keep it below 3500 rpm's for at least 500 miles or so. I'm not saying Vehicular DIY didn't do that. It's just what I'm going to do.

He'll tell you that's not what he did though

[flipmode]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Idk how many miles he had on the new bearings before he went WOT. I know he changed his oil out right away. I don't think he wanted the break in grease in his oil. Not sure why? I know he said he didn't have the oil properly warmed up to 170 before he went WOT. In my engine, every single cylinder was at .002, which is what it's supposed to be according to King Pin.

Honestly, I'm gonna wait about 1000 miles or so and change the oil out. I'm going to try and keep it below 3500 rpm's for at least 500 miles or so. I'm not saying Vehicular DIY didn't do that. It's just what I'm going to do.

After I did my turbos and rod bearings, I went threw 3 tanks of gas before changing the oil. But then again after my first tank of gas, I preformed a custom tune on my car with a few WOT pulls to dial it in. No issues and the car runs strong.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by flipmode

After I did my turbos and rod bearings, I went threw 3 tanks of gas before changing the oil. But then again after my first tank of gas, I preformed a custom tune on my car with a few WOT pulls to dial it in. No issues and the car runs strong.

3 tanks of gas = 1000 miles roughly speaking 😉

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by SlimE92

My point incase you missed it is that this might just turn into a replacing my entire engine thread.

Even the guy that he got his torque specs from, had his engine blow after he swapped the bearings....

Vehicular DIY engine blew up because of user error, he mentioned it was most likely because he was ripping it when the engine was cold.

Where did you get the idea, he blew it up by changing rod bearings? 🤦