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      07-08-2008, 10:33 AM   #1
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break fluid flush tool

http://www.trackhaus.com/0100-europe...cts-p-267.html

Does anyone have any info on one of these power bleeders? The whole pump/bleed/repeat process kills me.


This model includes adapter 1100 which works on most European cars including Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Pugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45 mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps. Fits European (Ate) and Tilton systems.

Works on ABS, traction control, and conventional braking systems. Works with DOT 3, 4, or DOT 5 fluids.

This is a great kit for the racer or hobbyist.

View the Application Chart to see which vehicles these adapters will fit.
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      07-08-2008, 10:56 AM   #2
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Mechanics use this alot...I personally just use the pump the brakes..release...pump again method with a catch can.
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      07-08-2008, 12:32 PM   #3
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I have one. It works very well and has reduced marital stress.

Clean it with denatured alcohol.
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      07-09-2008, 10:31 PM   #4
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I used a motive pressure bleeder this weekend. No problems at all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by satakal View Post
http://www.trackhaus.com/0100-europe...cts-p-267.html

Does anyone have any info on one of these power bleeders? The whole pump/bleed/repeat process kills me.


This model includes adapter 1100 which works on most European cars including Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Pugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45 mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps. Fits European (Ate) and Tilton systems.

Works on ABS, traction control, and conventional braking systems. Works with DOT 3, 4, or DOT 5 fluids.

This is a great kit for the racer or hobbyist.

View the Application Chart to see which vehicles these adapters will fit.
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      07-10-2008, 09:55 AM   #5
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Order has been placed.

I'll do the brakes this weekend. I hope this will be eeeeeasy.
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      07-11-2008, 12:51 AM   #6
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Let us know, I may try it next week.

edit: http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213448.html

Is the techinique the same for our car as this?
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      07-13-2008, 01:40 PM   #7
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OMG, this was so F'ing easy! Especially since I know how hard it could have been.

So, I have bled the clutch on this car after a rediculously long CDV install. That sucked and it was stupid. How was I to know that of the whole fluid reservior, only a tiny corner was for the clutch? Anyways, that day, me and my buddy did pump, pump, pump, open, close, repeat. No fun! I knew that the brakes would be similar so I gambled with spending money to make my life easier. It worked.

Basically, you dump two .5 liter bottles of RBF600 into the jug. (*that's two bottles. The bottles are 1/2 liter. Ultimately, 1L total*) Screw the cap onto the fluid reservior. Snug the top on the jug and pump that B up to about 10psi. Put one end of the clear pastic tube on the nipple, the other end of the tube into a very recently finished bottle of Bombay Sapphire (1.75L). The rear nipples open with a 9, the fronts with an 11. Basically, I opened a nipple, then layed down on the cool concrete garage floor while the old fluid got pushed out by the new stuff. When the fluid color looked like the new stuff, I close the nipple then hit the other 3 corners. And, for extra credit, I also bled the clutch.

I had my buddy over who used to be a Honda mechanic. He and I were laughing in hysterics over how rediculously easy this service was. It was 100% due to the power bleeder. Honestly, the hardest part was getting the wheels off.
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      07-13-2008, 02:57 PM   #8
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Hmmm, may do myself then, was going to have Midas do it after I provided the fluid. Figure I'm taking the tires off anyway, might as well order the bleeder and do it myself.

Thanks for the writeup.

ps- Pass on the Bombay Sapphire.... Kirkland Goose knockoff all the way!

Noob question, 9 and 11 crescent wrench?
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      07-13-2008, 09:03 PM   #9
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yeah... mm size wrenches. All standard tools, nothing tricky.
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      08-15-2008, 07:25 AM   #10
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so bleeding the fluid from all four tires will not flush out the clutch? I thought the brake and clutch use the same fluid from the same master cylinder? Since you already done this and seems to know what is going on, would you care to explain?

I don't understand when you say 'only a tiny corner was for the clutch'. Corner of what? Corner of the brake fluid master cylinder?

Not trying to be an a&&, just did not understand and trying to get more info.
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      08-15-2008, 09:48 AM   #11
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:-D "fluid from the tires." lol.

So, the fluid starts in a reservior under the hood. There's where you or the tech will add fluid if the fluid level looks low. The trick to bleeding the clutch is... the reservior is broken out into little chambers. Kinda like when you buy 12 wine glasses? it comes in a box with a cardboard divider that is 3 down and 4 across.



Only one of those chambers/pockets feeds to the clutch. All the other ones feed to the brakes.

Once the fluid pushy mechanism (I think thats the master cyl but I don't really know) pushes fluid toward any one of the four corners or the tranny, there's no return system for that fluid to get cycled. Think about how your heart pushes oxygenated blood to your toes, ears, johnson, whatever. The "red" stuff gets pushed away from the reservior by the master cylinder (heart) goes and does its job feeding your muscles, then the pressure in your circulatory system pushes that un-oxygenated blood back to the heart and the cycle repeats. With blood, the fluid gets cycled and performs a whole bunch of complete loops of your body.

With the brake fluid, there is no return tubes. So, when brake fluid gets in the lines to the right front caliper, thats where it will live forever. The only way to get the fluid out of any one corner is to suck/push/drain it out. Each place there is a bleed nipple will have to be opened for the system to be able to "burp" and let fluid flow.

I hope that makes sense. The fluid system is a one way system. No return loop. When you work on one corner of the fluid system... you're working on that one corner. If you have a manual, you have 4 corners plus a middle. Middle being the clucth fluid line and nipple.

PS: good thing I didn't explore my first idea too much. Here's where I stopped in my "first draft" of explaining how brake fluid works...

"Bad analogy time. Imagine you killed Neil Patrick Harris and have him cold and dead on an operating table. You have the task changing his.... blood fluid. I suppose all you'd have to do is jam a tube in the push side of his heart, and another tube in the suck side of his heart. "
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      08-15-2008, 10:53 AM   #12
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I give you credit for killing doogie howsier in your analogy.
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      08-15-2008, 11:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dascamel View Post
I give you credit for killing doogie howsier in your analogy.
oh, the little world between my ears is awesome! NPH would totally recommend that everyone here call up Mike from Pure MotorSports in Temeclua, order two thingys of RBF600 and a pressure bleeder. Then, he'd say, "tell Mike to give you the doogie discount. He'll know what you mean ;-)"
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      08-15-2008, 12:20 PM   #14
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Thanks professor satakal

Now, since this is a system of no return, does it makes sense to start at the pass rear wheel?

Some bleed tool (mityvac) say to start with the wheel closet to the mast cyl?

What does the professor say about this?
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      08-15-2008, 12:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03 View Post
Thanks professor satakal

Now, since this is a system of no return, does it makes sense to start at the pass rear wheel?

Some bleed tool (mityvac) say to start with the wheel closet to the mast cyl?

What does the professor say about this?
I don't deserve that respect but thanks.

My buddy who used to be a honda mechanic recommended that you work from farthest away from the reservior to the closest.

RR, LR, RF, LF.

But, I can't see it making a bit of difference. Just one of those rules of thumb. Like... Don't let NPH borrow your car unless you want to clean up ickyness outta the back seat.
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      08-18-2008, 05:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 742 View Post
I have one. It works very well and has reduced marital stress.


Will be doing my brakes in a month or so, so thanks for the good info from this thread.
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      08-18-2008, 09:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satakal View Post
I don't deserve that respect but thanks.

My buddy who used to be a honda mechanic recommended that you work from farthest away from the reservior to the closest.

RR, LR, RF, LF.

But, I can't see it making a bit of difference. Just one of those rules of thumb. Like... Don't let NPH borrow your car unless you want to clean up ickyness outta the back seat.
NPH?

Yeah, I don't see a bit of difference where you start if the fluid just sit there and does not cycle or travel back and forth.
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      08-18-2008, 09:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03 View Post
NPH?

Yeah, I don't see a bit of difference where you start if the fluid just sit there and does not cycle or travel back and forth.


http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=nph

http://www.google.com/search?q=neil+...x=&startPage=1
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      08-19-2008, 07:53 AM   #19
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Wonder how he does with a manual tranmission
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      08-19-2008, 12:20 PM   #20
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PM'd sakatal and we agreed that this information should be posted here:

The brake AND clutch system combined should take less than 1 liter of fluid. So buy 2 bottles and that should be more than enough fluid to cover both the brake and clutch systems.
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      08-19-2008, 12:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowbow View Post
PM'd sakatal and we agreed that this information should be posted here:

The brake AND clutch system combined should take less than 1 liter of fluid. So buy 2 bottles and that should be more than enough fluid to cover both the brake and clutch systems.
1 liter = 33 fluid oz. I recently flushed my brake system (no clutch) and I used two bottles of 12 fluid oz just an fyi. I bought the dot 4 brake fluid at a local bmw dealer and they told me to flush the brake, I will need 2 bottles. The new bmw brake fluid was clear yellow and the old fluid in the master cyclinder was clear orange.
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      08-19-2008, 01:04 PM   #22
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this is a fun thread.

I put this much in my power bleeder jug and had a comfortable amount left over after bleeding all 4 corners + clutch.

I use the "race" stuff because I think I'm fast. For the non delusional guys, the guy in the parts dept should have an answer for you. And, when you're at the parts counter, ask him to call a tech over to chat with you about any "gotcha" things.


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