[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Adding *negative* camber, as was done, will cause the wheel to toe *out* (which is what happened); the toe arm is behind the wheel carrier, 'roll-over strut' is at the bottom of the wheel carrier.

Yeah that's how I was originally thinking about it but then I edited everything lol. I was remembering that the car gains camber and toes in as it squats. The rear is not straight forward at all since there are multiple links dictating how the wheel moves. Looking at the pictures, the top could be the right side... could've sworn op said otherwise but whatever. Cant solve everyone's problems through pictures on a forum. Pretty screwed up if the dealer intentionally botched the alignment but I'd bet that this wont get back to spec as it should. Not without botching the camber.

[Shmee]

Alright so I decided to just say screw it and get new toe arms that have more adjustment. Ended up doing a guesstimate alignment with it and cars drives much better now. Still getting it redone on Friday but not at that dealership. Looks like I can’t give the mechanic too much flak cause once I pulled off the toe arms, the right one had been drilled out either by the previous owner or their mechanic. Pretty stupid stuff if I must say. I’ll update with new alignment sheet when it’s done. Here’s a pic of it

View post on imgur.com

[Tambohamilton]

Well, I stand corrected on that one!

[Shmee]

Well technically nothing was bent just a drilled out hole so you’re not wrong either!

[Tambohamilton]

Haha, fair point...but no, I did not expect to see anything out of line under there.

I still think they could have tried harder to get it 'near enough' for you to drive away, or at least been more helpful than 'something's damaged'....... Maybe I'm expecting too much from people who just work their shift and then go home. Anyhow, glad you're a step closer to fixing it properly!

[Shmee]

Well I’m Pretty sure once he realized he wasn’t able to get the rear toe in spec, he didn’t even touch the camber on the fronts, which is stupid cause I paid good money. Nonetheless, glad this is almost sorted. Now I gotta figure out why I’m losing coolant

[MightyMouseTech]

Well first off, they selected the wrong car. Look at the ride heights, they are all out of spec. They should have selected a normal E90, not the "sport package". That is for when you have the accessory lowering kit installed.

If they dial down the camber to -1.30' to -1.40', I bet they can get the rear toe in spec.

Edit: replied before reading the whole thread.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Well first off, they selected the wrong car. Look at the ride heights, they are all out of spec. They should have selected a normal E90, not the "sport package". That is for when you have the accessory lowering kit installed.

If they dial down the camber to -1.30' to -1.40', I bet they can get the rear toe in spec.

Edit: replied before reading the whole thread.

you shouldn't have to compromise camber to get toe in spec though. and stock eccentrics don;t provide for over 2* of toe change lol. something had to be off.

Could the dealer have set the toe better as a compromise? sure. But they don't get paid for that. Alignments are not profit generators and they don't have time to make changes, roll the car around, make more changes, just to get "closer" to a good spec. Once they saw that the toe could not get back to a reasonable spec they probably just left the eccentric where it was. Or they set it at the most negative position to exaggerate the issue so the owner would be more likely to OK a proper repair.

The "setting" in the alignment machine has no bearing on the actual alignment. It just gives data of the expected ride height (used to see if a corner of the car is sagging) and it also gives the "ranges" for what a "good" alignment is. Green vs red. If you're asking for a custom performance alignment then it's completely moot.

Also, OP, front camber is not adjustable. You will see slight changes to front camber though as the rear alignment is moved around.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

you shouldn't have to compromise camber to get toe in spec though. and stock eccentrics don;t provide for over 2* of toe change lol. something had to be off.

Could the dealer have set the toe better as a compromise? sure. But they don't get paid for that. Alignments are not profit generators and they don't have time to make changes, roll the car around, make more changes, just to get "closer" to a good spec. Once they saw that the toe could not get back to a reasonable spec they probably just left the eccentric where it was. Or they set it at the most negative position to exaggerate the issue so the owner would be more likely to OK a proper repair.

The "setting" in the alignment machine has no bearing on the actual alignment. It just gives data of the expected ride height (used to see if a corner of the car is sagging) and it also gives the "ranges" for what a "good" alignment is. Green vs red. If you're asking for a custom performance alignment then it's completely moot.

Also, OP, front camber is not adjustable. You will see slight changes to front camber though as the rear alignment is moved around.

FYI. I am a BMW alignment tech.

Unfortunately, I had not seen the messed up toe arm till after I had replied.

I often have to reduce rear camber to get toe into spec. On my own car, I set the toe adjusters to max, then reduce camber till toe is in spec. That gets me to around -2.2 camber and 0.05' toe in left and right.

[Shmee]

Huh, did not know front camber couldn't be adjusted. Thanks for the heads up

[relative4]

Incorrect. Front camber is adjustable. You just remove the camber locking pin from the top hat.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by relative4

Incorrect. Front camber is adjustable. You just remove the camber locking pin from the top hat.

True but that is an auto body repair not a basic 4 wheel alignment.

[relative4]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

True but that is an auto body repair not a basic 4 wheel alignment.

What are you talking about? Removing the pin takes seconds and has nothing to do with body repair.

Originally Posted by bbnks2

True but that is an auto body repair not a basic 4 wheel alignment.

In the world of "dealership book hours" I would agree...but that's a whole other topic in and of itself.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by relative4

What are you talking about? Removing the pin takes seconds and has nothing to do with body repair.

You're talking as an enthusiast. That pin is a locating pin for the strut. It is not a normal part of any four wheel alignment to knock it out to align front camber. Front camber is not listed as adjustable. The only thing that makes reference to removing that pin "on the book" is in regard to collision repair where removing the pin can help compensate for bent parts. Understand what I am saying? Your front camber should not have to be adjusted anyway. OP's camber is outside of spec (higher) for whatever reason (lowered or M3 control arms or fixed camber plates) but it is actually EVEN side-to-side which is what matters. There wouldn't even be any need to adjust anything up front and no alignment tech would. .1* difference in camber is NOT detrimental or noticeable like .1* difference of toe is. You can breathe on a car and camber will change by .1*.

[MightyMouseTech]

We do have front knuckles available that will adjust front camber +/- 0.75 degrees. We never use them though. If camber is too far out, we are replacing the suspension. VERY common in the F30's. The strut is designed to go though the knuckle in an impact instead of the body getting damaged.

[Soravia]

Are there any cheap front camber adjust plates?
I've seen them but for an arm and leg. Like half the price of the basic coil over kit WITH the same adjustment.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

We do have front knuckles available that will adjust front camber +/- 0.75 degrees. We never use them though. If camber is too far out, we are replacing the suspension. VERY common in the F30's. The strut is designed to go though the knuckle in an impact instead of the body getting damaged.

I do remember seeing something in TIS for f-series about an adjustable alignment kit to correct geometry issues.

Originally Posted by Soravia

Are there any cheap front camber adjust plates?
I've seen them but for an arm and leg. Like half the price of the basic coil over kit WITH the same adjustment.

How much adjustment are you looking for? Like, what settings are you ultimately looking to attain?

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Soravia

Are there any cheap front camber adjust plates?
I've seen them but for an arm and leg. Like half the price of the basic coil over kit WITH the same adjustment.

The Dinan fixed camber plates are probably the cheapest.

[Soravia]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

How much adjustment are you looking for? Like, what settings are you ultimately looking to attain?

No idea. Haven't used struts for a long long time.
Not lowering the car or anything. Just thinking of what to do if the adjustment runs out.