[Daviebrown]

As above, the most common cause of wheel wobble under braking with BMW is not brake discs but front suspension components, either track rod end or lower control arm bush or joint. Just because you had the lower control arms done some time ago doesn’t mean something else hasn’t failed. Have it checked out by someone reputable.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by Daviebrown

As above, the most common cause of wheel wobble under braking with BMW is not brake discs but front suspension components, either track rod end or lower control arm bush or joint. Just because you had the lower control arms done some time ago doesn’t mean something else hasn’t failed. Have it checked out by someone reputable.

The OP has vibration from the rear not the front...

[Daviebrown]

He feels vibration through the car and slightly through the steering wheel, it was you who said it was from the rear not the OP

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by therealdb1

You would think if it was an ABS sensor related problem you would feel brake "judder" through the brake pedal but what you described in your opening post was a vibration throughout the car and not through the brake pedal. A different sensation altogether!

Yes correct vibration is through the car so certainly wouldn't say it's this issue for me.

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by david in germany

I am a little late to the discussion, sorry. As mentioned, make sure that the rotors are installed onto clean hubs (remove any rust and corrosion) next ensure that you torque the wheel bolts properly. If you over torque one or two of them you can and will get vibration.

Three, if a shop tells you you have warped rotors, find a new shop. Modern rotors don’t warp like single layer rotors did in the past, they just don’t. They can pick up hot spots which causes pulsating brakes and when this happens they can be turned/ resurfaced as long as they are still within specifications. BUT hot spots are VERY rare in rear rotors unless you have a stuck caliper dragging.

Bottom line, clean mating surfaces, proper torque settings, if the vibrations still persist, start checking bushings and suspension.

Thanks for you're detailed response, I have made sure the surfaces of the hubs are clean before installing the disks. In a space of 6 months I tried three different set of disks and pads to cure the problem and each time they were mounted the surfaces were cleaned thoroughly by my mechanic. The hub faces looked clean and shiny before the disks went on. So I'm not sure it's down to the way the disk sits.

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by Daviebrown

He feels vibration through the car and slightly through the steering wheel, it was you who said it was from the rear not the OP

The vibration is predominantly at the back of the vehicle starts just as you apply the brakes and then slowly translates through the chassis and it can be felt at the front, but not directly in the steering or the brake pedal, assuming that's the vibration running through the chassis.

[Chappers 71]

Take it to a decent tyre place, my local STS are great, when my 35i suffers from brake vibration they do a free brake test which narrows it down to a particular wheel/side of the car. Then it goes on a shaker ramp which will show any issues with suspension parts.

[rasa bmw]

caliopers?check them all for excessive heat after a drive

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by rasa bmw

caliopers?check them all for excessive heat after a drive

I have had the calipers checked and they are all fine and no excessive heat after a drive either.

[rasa bmw]

has brake fluid been done ?

[therealdb1]

The OP said brake fluid was changed so unless used fluid was put back in that can be ruled out.

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by Chappers 71

Take it to a decent tyre place, my local STS are great, when my 35i suffers from brake vibration they do a free brake test which narrows it down to a particular wheel/side of the car. Then it goes on a shaker ramp which will show any issues with suspension parts.

I had a brake test done at quickfit and they reported back saying none of the calipers are sticking and seems to be fine. It has been on a shaker ramp, and has been through two mots since and I keep getting told all is fine under there.

I changed the rose joint bushes about a year ago which were worn and was pretty obvious from the way the rear tyres were sitting wearing etc that made no difference either to the vibration.

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by therealdb1

The OP said brake fluid was changed so unless used fluid was put back in that can be ruled out.

Haha! Old brake fluid back in never heard of that one before. Yes it was fresh fluid.

[BMW33]

I have noticed this before and did so yesterday after cleaning the car using iorn fallout remover on the alloys disk etc the vibration seems to disappear for around the first 10 15 miles for speeds of anything upto 50 but 50 and above it's still there but not as harsh until you've done a few miles then we are back to square one.

[tadaska]

Originally Posted by BMW33

I have noticed this before and did so yesterday after cleaning the car using iorn fallout remover on the alloys disk etc the vibration seems to disappear for around the first 10 15 miles for speeds of anything upto 50 but 50 and above it's still there but not as harsh until you've done a few miles then we are back to square one.

I think that's your clue. I don't know why no one picked up on this when you mentioned it earlier. Maybe they missed it. No idea what it could be but it narrows down where the problem lies.

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by tadaska

I think that's your clue. I don't know why no one picked up on this when you mentioned it earlier. Maybe they missed it. No idea what it could be but it narrows down where the problem lies.

It certainly is a clue but what could be causing that? I have tried a number of disks and pad combination and that has not worked so I can put it down to the pads & disks either.

[tadaska]

Originally Posted by BMW33

It certainly is a clue but what could be causing that? I have tried a number of disks and pad combination and that has not worked so I can put it down to the pads & disks either.

I don't know, not a mechanic. But did you change the slider pins and the rubber sleeves for them? Maybe that cleaning chemical you use gets onto the disks and pads and makes them slippery. But when it wears off 15 min. later the braking gets stronger and that causes vibrations because of warn out pins/sleeves? Also, check if the pin thread has been badly rethreaded and the pins are not straight? Just throwing at you some things that come to mind.

[0l0dom0l0]

It might be time to fit some refurbished calipers

[noname1]

What discs are you using? My e92 335i gets some brake judder through the wheel when they get hot. I'm going for m3 brakes next month so doesn't bother me too much but i'm convinced it's from the brake dust building up in the drilled holes in the disc which causes it… i'm using Zimmerman drilled discs with EBC yellow stuff pads.

[BMW33]

Hi all I decided to take a look at the suspension components in relation to this vibration issue I am currently having.

The car was lifted in the air and I started at the rear by checking for play or seized calipers the alloys spin freely and there is no play. Alloys were then removed and I started inspecting the bushes which seem reasonably weathered but there Is plenty of tension on them no movement by hand or a pry bar and none of them knock at all.

Moving on to the anti roll bar end links I found they moved quite easily by hand with minimal force on the anti roll bar. Is this normal? As it's not the same at the front which had plenty of tension on it.

The front was checked with the the car off the ground alloys on 9 3 , 12 6 positions to see if there is any play or movement, the alloy was also rocked back and forth and all seemed fine no noises or clunks. Once the alloys had been removed I tried to move the lower control arm by hand and a pry bar plenty of tension no movement could be seen.

Moving onto the thrust arm I held it in the middle and tried a quarter turn by hand to check tension and play, you could easily see the Bush on the frame side flexing I then tried the same with the pry bar and you clearly see it moving easily and barely had any tension. This was the same on both side but it was far easier to move on the passenger side.

In terms of fluid leaks around the thrust arm bush it does look brown in colour & the fluid seems to be on the top side of the arm rather than the bottom, strange.

Whilst i was in there I also found that on the rear the headlight range sensors sits above a couple of arms having looked at the connector to the sensor the third wire has broke which explains why my lights shine so low on the ground.

Does anyone know how I can upload pics or videos to show my findings?

Many thanks

[BMW33]

Originally Posted by noname1

What discs are you using? My e92 335i gets some brake judder through the wheel when they get hot. I'm going for m3 brakes next month so doesn't bother me too much but i'm convinced it's from the brake dust building up in the drilled holes in the disc which causes it… i'm using Zimmerman drilled discs with EBC yellow stuff pads.

Genuine BMW ones on the rear and TRW at the front standard non grooved. I thought that at first but that would usually clear after a few hard stops but that has never worked for me. I have worked them hard but that dosent really change anything vibration remains.

[tadaska]

Originally Posted by BMW33

Does anyone know how I can upload pics or videos to show my findings?

I use Imgur website. Upload the images there and then get links for forums and add them to a post.