[YH10]

Just took the Mrs car out this morning and noticed something quite alarming.
Naturally when in drive (auto box) and you leave the brake pedal, the car edges forward, however when I was at a traffic light and held the brake for more then 5 seconds, upon realising the brake pedal the car didn't move for half a second, and then jolted and then resumed moving forward. This happened at every traffic light when holding the break for longer than 3/4 seconds.
When I put it in N and then held the brake at a traffic light, and then put it in d and set of it was fine..
Any ideas ?

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by YH10

Just took the Mrs car out this morning and noticed something quite alarming.
Naturally when in drive (auto box) and you leave the brake pedal, the car edges forward, however when I was at a traffic light and held the brake for more then 5 seconds, upon realising the brake pedal the car didn't move for half a second, and then jolted and then resumed moving forward. This happened at every traffic light when holding the break for longer than 3/4 seconds.
When I put it in N and then held the brake at a traffic light, and then put it in d and set of it was fine..
Any ideas ?

Ideally you could do with something to pull codes from your gearbox like INPA/ISTA/Carly otherwise you will likely end up with some possibilities but either way I can't see you being able to avoid taking it somewhere eventually to confirm what is causing it.

I would have said there's a possibility the brakes are sticking but the fact neutral to drive allows you to pull away fine rules that out. How many miles has your car done by the way? As you may have read you ideally should change the fluid at around 80 to 100k not that I believe that's the issue but if your car is around that mileage and you have the money spare it may be worth while considering getting the fluid changed while getting it looked at if nobody does manage to solve it on here.

[YH10]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Ideally you could do with something to pull codes from your gearbox like INPA/ISTA/Carly otherwise you will likely end up with some possibilities but either way I can't see you being able to avoid taking it somewhere eventually to confirm what is causing it.

I would have said there's a possibility the brakes are sticking but the fact neutral to drive allows you to pull away fine rules that out. How many miles has your car done by the way? As you may have read you ideally should change the fluid at around 80 to 100k not that I believe that's the issue but if your car is around that mileage and you have the money spare it may be worth while considering getting the fluid changed while getting it looked at if nobody does manage to solve it on here.

Thanks for the reply.
Yea I wanted to assume it was a break issue but like you said that was quickly ruled out.
I am real noob in terms codes and currently have no code reader so could you please send me in the right direction; what should I purchase to read the codes out of the three you mentioned.

The break fluid has been replaced 3 times in its life time, obviously if that's what it is I'm more than happy to just get a brake fluid change. I'm fearing the worst, a 2k gearbox problem.

The car is at 62100 miles currently

Currently the car is behind driven as mentioned, at a stop the car is being put into n and then just before getting of back in drive to help the situation I guess.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by YH10

Thanks for the reply.
Yea I wanted to assume it was a break issue but like you said that was quickly ruled out.
I am real noob in terms codes and currently have no code reader so could you please send me in the right direction; what should I purchase to read the codes out of the three you mentioned.

The break fluid has been replaced 3 times in its life time, obviously if that's what it is I'm more than happy to just get a brake fluid change. I'm fearing the worst, a 2k gearbox problem.

The car is at 62100 miles currently

Currently the car is behind driven as mentioned, at a stop the car is being put into n and then just before getting of back in drive to help the situation I guess.

With respects to the diagnostic tools and softwares available to you INPA and ISTA D are both softwares that run on a laptop running Windows, INPA can pull fault codes very quick and allow you to read various things in real time with the engine running such as injectors, charge air pressure etc etc, ISTA D on the other hand is the same diagnostic software that BMW use which has an exhaustive list of functionalities and you can't really get better to be honest. To go down the route of INPA/ISTA D you'd need to purchase a good OBD cable which usually comes bundled with the INPA and ISTA D software, I myself purchased the cable and bundled software from eBay for just £25 but many people recommend cable-shack as they do good quality cables, eBay on the other hand you may get a poor quality cable.

Now Carly on the other hang is something that I don't have but is very popular, Carly is an diagnostic and programming app that runs on your Android or IOS device. You purchase one of their OBD devices which are either wireless or Bluetooth capable and then the Carly app will connect to the OBD device and you can pull fault codes with ease. The reason Carly is quite popular is because it's very user friendly and easy to use and xtremely quick to set up.. On the other hand ISTA D it's an absolute giant software that takes quite a long time to install and also requires quite a lot of steps to get set up. To pull fault codes either route would be fine but carly is the easiest to setup as it's quite simply plug and play, bare in mind to go down the Carly route you need to pay for both the application and the dongle which combined will set you back around £90.

As for your gearbox despite not knowing what the actual issue is I've read a small amount of gearbox issues and have seen some of them being resolved by software updates/oil changes and given your symptom and mileage I personally don't believe your anywhere close to requiring extensive work like a new transmission.

you may also want to look at YouTube videos of Carly as well as INPA and ISTA D to get an idea was they're like. Do bare in mind however, if there is a fault code stored for your gearbox it will one way or another need to go to a garage..

Keep us updated with how you get on

[YH10]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

With respects to the diagnostic tools and softwares available to you INPA and ISTA D are both softwares that run on a laptop running Windows, INPA can pull fault codes very quick and allow you to read various things in real time with the engine running such as injectors, charge air pressure etc etc, ISTA D on the other hand is the same diagnostic software that BMW use which has an exhaustive list of functionalities and you can't really get better to be honest. To go down the route of INPA/ISTA D you'd need to purchase a good OBD cable which usually comes bundled with the INPA and ISTA D software, I myself purchased the cable and bundled software from eBay for just £25 but many people recommend cable-shack as they do good quality cables, eBay on the other hand you may get a poor quality cable.

Now Carly on the other hang is something that I don't have but is very popular, Carly is an diagnostic and programming app that runs on your Android or IOS device. You purchase one of their OBD devices which are either wireless or Bluetooth capable and then the Carly app will connect to the OBD device and you can pull fault codes with ease. The reason Carly is quite popular is because it's very user friendly and easy to use and xtremely quick to set up.. On the other hand ISTA D it's an absolute giant software that takes quite a long time to install and also requires quite a lot of steps to get set up. To pull fault codes either route would be fine but carly is the easiest to setup as it's quite simply plug and play, bare in mind to go down the Carly route you need to pay for both the application and the dongle which combined will set you back around £90.

As for your gearbox despite not knowing what the actual issue is I've read a small amount of gearbox issues and have seen some of them being resolved by software updates/oil changes and given your symptom and mileage I personally don't believe your anywhere close to requiring extensive work like a new transmission.

you may also want to look at YouTube videos of Carly as well as INPA and ISTA D to get an idea was they're like. Do bare in mind however, if there is a fault code stored for your gearbox it will one way or another need to go to a garage..

Keep us updated with how you get on

I completely mis read when you mentioned 'fluid'.
I automatically assumed you meant brake fluid, I am just trying to read up on the problem and the light bulb clicked. I'm assuming you referred to transmission fluid change ?
I have no record of that being done in the service book and I'm sure it was a lifetime component.
I think my first port of call will be to change the transmission fluid straight after Christmas. Fingers crossed this is the problem !

The car did go for a health check 2/3 weeks and nothing was reported back from bmw. I'm assuming it's not been leaking but overtime does the fluid become ineffective ?

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by YH10

I completely mis read when you mentioned 'fluid'.
I automatically assumed you meant brake fluid, I am just trying to read up on the problem and the light bulb clicked. I'm assuming you referred to transmission fluid change ?
I have no record of that being done in the service book and I'm sure it was a lifetime component.
I think my first port of call will be to change the transmission fluid straight after Christmas. Fingers crossed this is the problem !

The car did go for a health check 2/3 weeks and nothing was reported back from bmw. I'm assuming it's not been leaking but overtime does the fluid become ineffective ?

From the research that I have done the story basically went that BMW called the transition fluid "lifetime oil" but the transmission are manufactured by a company called "ZF" and somebody enquired with ZF about the "lifetime" oil and ZF confirmed that these transmission shouldn't run it's life on one single oil.. and I believe that is where the 80 - 100k interval change came from. Furthermore, I believe in the small print when BMW state "lifetime" that actually ends up being 100k.. don't quote me on that but I'm sure that's what I've read. But going back to the transmission oil the manufacturer themselves confirmed they should be changed within 80 - 100k and let's be honest with a quick Google search it probably wouldn't be difficult to pull up some transmission failures and delayed gear changes which an oil change managed to solve so they add up.

As I say, with yours being 67k there really isn't a high chance this is oil related, but if you end up having something done to your transmission it "may" (depending on cost) be worth adding in an oil/mechateonic sleeve and gasket change. You know from that day your 2k transmission as far as oil is concerned is food for another 80 to 100k..

I was also having a think about your issue, I believe there is a procedure to reset the transmission just by turning the ignition on and holding the accelerator for 30 seconds.. though it may not work it costs absolutely nothing and can make the gear changes smoother so there's nothing to lose

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=gearbox+reset

Let me know if the gearbox reset works for you