[prince328i]

Hello everyone,
I have 2011 bmw 328i with n52k awd and it's having strange issues recently after changing valve cover. First of all it wasn't accelerating so I checked everything and figured out it was the fuse on the battery. So i changed it and everything was good.
Then, it started to stall and shutdown on the way on around 30-40 kmph and solved it by cleaning vanos solenoids.
It was able to start 4-5 times then, it wasn't able to start(just clicking sound of starter relay and later on Key fob was stuck inside). Figured out that starter was dead and dme/ecu fried also(key was able to come out when dme/ecu was disconnected). Mechanic told me that dme fried up the starter and we decided to change it and swapped a used one from another car and coded it. The car is able to start and run but there is twist in starting it.
Push start button doesn't start the car instead it just turns on the electronics and i have to jumpstart the car by connecting some kind of wire with the +ve terminal in the hood near the dme/ecu.
1) anyone know what's is going on here? Mechanic told that there is some transmission issue and it needs to be replaced( as told by him: car dme/ecu doesn't know which gear it is and is not shifting up/down.)
2) there is transmission failure sign coming up with yellow gear icon along with 4x4 sign.

Proposed solutions: to replace transmission but mechanic isn't sure whether it is faulty or not.
Need help regarding this.
Thanks

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by prince328i

...anyone know what's is going on here?...

Apparently NOT!
AND that includes anyone who has worked on it for you if you can't produce any scans of invoices with diagnostic test results, Fault Codes -- ANYTHING that provides ANY Diagnostic information. You're a bit too far to drive over and hook up to my INPA, so can't do much for you if you have NO Diagnostic information.

Do you have any Scan Tool or Software such as INPA or ISTA?
Can you attach a scan in jpg format of any invoice listing diagnostics performed?
Can you get anyone to provide you with any existing Fault Codes and Freeze Frame Data or Fault Details?

You know the old computer programming saying: "Garbage in -- Garbage OUT"; and that's exactly what you'll get here without the requested "facts."

George

[prince328i]

Thanks for replying, Yes, I did some scans by carly before the problem got frustrating. At that time, car was all good except few minor misfire but it wasn't the actual misfire in the cylinders. Suddenly, on pressing acceleration hardly, rpms were really acting strange( rpm drops ans spikes up(like 3000-500-2000) instantly just in 1-2 second and right after 4x4 sign comes up and car started to hesitate to accelerate. I have some screenshots before the problem got bigger and it was about transmission (no communication with dme/ invalid torque). I will attach the screenshots below.
I just installed ISTA and waiting for the cable. I will post the new diagnostics asap.

[Mpaula]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Apparently NOT!
AND that includes anyone who has worked on it for you if you can't produce any scans of invoices with diagnostic test results, Fault Codes -- ANYTHING that provides ANY Diagnostic information. You're a bit too far to drive over and hook up to my INPA, so can't do much for you if you have NO Diagnostic information.

Do you have any Scan Tool or Software such as INPA or ISTA?
Can you attach a scan in jpg format of any invoice listing diagnostics performed?
Can you get anyone to provide you with any existing Fault Codes and Freeze Frame Data or Fault Details?

You know the old computer programming saying: "Garbage in -- Garbage OUT"; and that's exactly what you'll get here without the requested "facts."

George

+1

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by prince328i

Thanks for replying, Yes, I did some scans by carly before the problem got frustrating. At that time, car was all good except few minor misfire but it wasn't the actual misfire in the cylinders. Suddenly, on pressing acceleration hardly, rpms were really acting strange( rpm drops ans spikes up(like 3000-500-2000) instantly just in 1-2 second and right after 4x4 sign comes up and car started to hesitate to accelerate. I have some screenshots before the problem got bigger and it was about transmission (no communication with dme/ invalid torque). I will attach the screenshots below.
I just installed ISTA and waiting for the cable. I will post the new diagnostics asap.

Please DO post (1) ISTA or INPA Code Definitions, with (2) Freeze Frame Data & (3) Fault Details, along with your (4) current Odometer mileage/km; please also include (5) CURRENT vehicle performance issues or symptoms & (6) Any current warning lights or icons (including SES/MIL) on Instrument Cluster.

I would suggest starting a NEW THREAD, since NOTHING in this thread is helpful to anyone understanding the performance issues or symptoms your car is exhibiting NOW.

Carly Data you posted is GARBAGE. That's NOT your fault -- I haven't seen anything intelligible from Carly readouts from ANYONE, and the people who post it don't seem to understand it either.

There is NO Transmission Fault disclosed by the four codes, and in fact ALL four are "Communication" type faults, as opposed to any Sensor-reported fault with internal operation. Two of the Codes relate to the TRANSFER CASE Control Module, NOT the transmission.

The Code saved in the Transmission Module relates to "No Message received by EGS (Transmission Module) from the DME (Engine Control Module) -- that is a "communication fault" and NOT a fault in the transmission. The 4th Code is from "DSC" (ACTUALLY DXC, you have XDrive) and relates to "Engine Management (DME) Interface). Remember you have (1) a Module that Controls the Automatic Transmission, and (2) another Module that Controls the Transfer Case (VGSG or VTG). You need to know WHAT MODULE the code is in, and the DEFINITION of that code.

I suppose Carly can read Fault Codes, which you can then enter on BMW Fault Code Lookup, and get some idea of proper "Definition" of the Code. However, it would appear that much of the "Faux Tech" contained on the Carly screens is incorrect, some of which arises from lack of automotive engineering understanding of the systems used in the vehicle (where's any reference to Transfer Case as opposed to Transmission -- two separate mechanical components & two separate Control Modules), and also from incorrect translation from German to English. Use Google Translate: https://translate.google.com/#view=h...te&sl=de&tl=en

For Instance, look how many times "Embassy" appears, or "news" in the "Attempted Definition" of the Fault Code found in the Transmission Control Module, GS1912. The German word "Botschaft", according to Google translate, can mean: Message, Embassy, News, Tidings. Wonder who those four "founders" of Carly who are all "computer scientists" in Munich (according to the Carly Web site) got to do their German to English translation.

Making matters worse, I don't see a date when these codes were read, and you seem to suggest that they were read BEFORE the symptoms got WORSE. One more reason to start over. If you still have Fault Codes in the DME (Engine Control Module) Memory (Carly said you HAD 3 but you didn't include them), provide info on those as well. Same for DSC/DXC.

If you have questions about what Modules control or relate to specific functions or systems, please ask, but basically we want ANYTHING related to the Control Modules for (1) Engine (DME - MSV80), (2) Transmission (EGS - GS1912), (3) Transfer Case (VGSG), and (4) Dynamic Stability Control & ABS (DSC/DXC).

You need to use INPA or ISTA (unless you know how to do it with Carly) to identify the "SGBD" or Variant Code for each of your modules. A particular Fault Code may mean ONE thing in ONE variant (SGBD) and something ELSE ENTIRELY in another SGBD. I'm NOT familiar with the 2011 model, and simply used the variant code for similar modules in my 2007 328xi. YMMV (Your Modules May Vary ;-)

Just so you/anyone reading this, can see what BMW Fault Code Lookup provides for Definitions for those four Fault Codes, here they are:

55C3 | VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque. | vgsg70 | Transfer box
CF55 | Message (engine torque , 0xAA) error, receiver VTG, transmitter DME-DDE | vgsg70 | Transfer box
CF1C | EGS: No messages from engine control | gs1912 | Transmission control
5F77 | DSC: Engine management: interface | dxc8_p | Dynamic Stability Control DSC8 Plus

George

[prince328i]

You need to use INPA or ISTA (unless you know how to do it with Carly) to identify the "SGBD" or Variant Code for each of your modules. A particular Fault Code may mean ONE thing in ONE variant (SGBD) and something ELSE ENTIRELY in another SGBD. I'm NOT familiar with the 2011 model, and simply used the variant code for similar modules in my 2007 328xi. YMMV (Your Modules May Vary ;-)

Just so you/anyone reading this, can see what BMW Fault Code Lookup provides for Definitions for those four Fault Codes, here they are:

55C3 | VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque. | vgsg70 | Transfer box
CF55 | Message (engine torque , 0xAA) error, receiver VTG, transmitter DME-DDE | vgsg70 | Transfer box
CF1C | EGS: No messages from engine control | gs1912 | Transmission control
5F77 | DSC: Engine management: interface | dxc8_p | Dynamic Stability Control DSC8 Plus

George[/QUOTE]


Ok, I will get back with the code from INPA(i ordered the cable and it will be here by tuesday ) I will read the codes and get those posted here ASAP.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by prince328i

...Ok, I will get back with the code from INPA(i ordered the cable and it will be here by tuesday ) I will read the codes and get those posted here ASAP.

If you are using INPA, I would suggest BEGIN by using "Functional Jobs" to read codes in ALL Modules, and then connect to any of the Four Modules described in post above (DME, EGS, VGSG, DXC) that have Fault Codes Present, and do ScreenPrints (saved as JPG format files) and post here, any screens showing fault Definitions & Details or Freeze Frame Data.

Attached is a "Tutorial" in pdf format which summarizes how to set up your Cable, Connect to INPA, read "Functional Jobs" information, and where to go from there. If you need any help connecting to any Module, such as DME or EGS, just let me know. Some versions of INPA require a small change in a program file to be able to connect to GS1912, the GM6 Auto Transmission Module.

George

[prince328i]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If you are using INPA, I would suggest BEGIN by using "Functional Jobs" to read codes in ALL Modules, and then connect to any of the Four Modules described in post above (DME, EGS, VGSG, DXC) that have Fault Codes Present, and do ScreenPrints (saved as JPG format files) and post here, any screens showing fault Definitions & Details or Freeze Frame Data.

Attached is a "Tutorial" in pdf format which summarizes how to set up your Cable, Connect to INPA, read "Functional Jobs" information, and where to go from there. If you need any help connecting to any Module, such as DME or EGS, just let me know. Some versions of INPA require a small change in a program file to be able to connect to GS1912, the GM6 Auto Transmission Module.

George

hello, sorry for the delay because i was hospitalized due to my side effects of my cancer trials. I'm good now and reporting back with the diagnosis dome by INPA as your told( thank you for the pdf guide, it helped a lot). I WILL POST THE SCREENSHOTS and I did managed to find some help on bmw fault code lookup and here is what i found:

55C3 : TRANSFER BOX > AWD LIMP-HOME CONTROL ACTIVATED NO DSC NOMINAL TORQUE.....,

5658 : EGS : GEARBOX-POSITION SENSOR: MALFUNCTION...,

6EC4 : DSC: STEERING-ANGLE SENSOR: ADJUSTMENT....,

5F2F : DSC : TRANSMISSION CONTROL:INTERFACE..

2E84 : RADIATOR SHUTTER,SELF-DIAGNOSIS,ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION ( same code also give
DME: ELECTRIC WATER PUMP ,COMMUNICATION and ELECTRIC COOLANT PUMP :MISSING)

2D06 ME: AIR-MASS SYSTEM (N52 ENGINE)

2CA6 and 2CA7 ME: OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER (1 AND 2) BEFORE CATALYTIC CONVERTER:FUNCTION

2E7A : DME : IGNITION TIMING ADJUSTMENT IN IDLE, COLD START

2ADF : DME : IDLE AIR CONTROL, ENGINE SPEED


NOW these are some CAS module codes which I'm not able to understand:

A0B1 : CAS : INPUT SELECTOR-LEVER POSITION, IMPLAUSIBLE

A0B4 : CAS : ENGINE START, STARTER OPERATION ( starter was changed recently and car is able to start now but not with the PUSH button , it needs to be trick-start by connecting one wire with positive terminal ONLY AFTER putting car into ignition mode)


Also, A0B4 is labelled as CA : outside door handle ,passenger's side, unknown fault class
================================================== ==========
KOMBI CODES:

A3AA :NO MESSAGE ( TRANSMISSION DATA , 0X1D2), RECEIVER KOMBI,TRANSMITTER EGS /HIM

A3BB :NO MESSAGE(DOORS STATUS), RECEIVER INSTRUMENTAL PANEL, TRANSMITTER CAS

A3B2 : MESSAGE ERROR(TERMINAL STATUS, 0X130), RECEIVER INSTRUMENTAL PANEL, TRANSMITTER CAS

A559 : DASHBOARD : SUPPLY WAS SWITCHED OFF..


i think that was all i did. tell me if i did something wrong and screens are attached below please open the images in new tabs to get proper view

please help me with the codes and what should i do next?

thank you so much

[PichaDis11]

Seems part of your issue stems from either your water pump is bad or there's an interruption on that network. It's finicky and kind of crazy as one component on the network can take out the rest from communicating.

Also whenever the Valvetronic motor is removed; the motor will need to learn its limits before the engine is started.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by prince328i

hello, sorry for the delay because i was hospitalized due to my side effects of my cancer trials. I'm good now and reporting back with the diagnosis done by INPA...

I hope your diagnosing physician is capable and able to give a "Negative Diagnosis" which is actually a "Positive Thing."

I must say your 328i's diagnosis is "Challenging." I'm willing to help you see what can be learned from existing Fault Code Definitions, Freeze Frame Data, Fault Details, and doing other Diagnostic Tests, but just to make sure we're on the same page here, I have NOT had to do anything this involved myself, and it WILL be a learning process.

1) I will provide you with information on how to connect to the pertinent modules to get as much information as we can, but

2) YOU need to try to get as much information as possible from any shop involved in "Repairs" and provide that, and answers to questions below related to "History."

I don't want to be negative in my attitude, or cause you angst, but we need to fully understand your vehicle's "Recent History" and have as complete an understanding of the sequence of events as possible, and it MAY be that new issues have been injected into the analysis by R&R steps taken by others, and obtaining any records of Fault Code Scans or other diagnostics done by others MIGHT be helpful if still available.

So, like investigating ANY event or period of activity, the FIRST step is to identify the sources of DATA, information, or History, that are still available, and to make sure that information is NOT lost or destroyed, but rather is preserved and copies obtained, whether Electronic format or paper format. If your original DME was replaced, WHO did that, and WHERE is the Original DME NOW? Can you get it back???

What you have identified so far is (1) Carly scan you did at some unidentified date (please try to estimate & provide the date you obtained the screens you attached to your post #3, dated 8/3/2019 in this thread); (2) INPA Functional Jobs F2 (Module ID) and F4 (Fault Codes in ALL Modules) read from Module Memory on 8/12/19 @ 5+ PM.

If a shop was involved in diagnosing any issue, either BEFORE or SINCE the VC replacement, please try to get as much information on codes read, diagnostics performed, etc. as you can, particularly as it relates to diagnosis of any DME issue, replacement of the DME, if the original DME is still available, etc. It would be helpful to have AS MANY details still available as possible related to ANYTHING done by you or others in the weeks/months related to VC fault diagnosis & NOW.

If a shop replaced your original DME, please try to get as many technical details as possible about: (1) what was done to identify the variant and programming of your Original DME, (2) what was done in identifying that information related to any Replacement DME (3) what programming or flashing of the Replacment DME was performed, HOW & WHY; (4) SPECIFICALLY what steps were done to Synchronize the DME and CAS after installation of Replacement DME?

There is a REASON that Bentley provides the first steps of VC Replacement, at 113-3, p.154 of pdf:

"Cylinder head cover, removing and installing (non-turbo)
- Use scan tool to read out and record ECM fault memory.
- Switch ignition OFF and remove key."

AND TIS states: remove Negative Battery Terminal

The good news is that we can get "Historyspeicher" or Memory History from the DME, which includes History of Fault Codes that have been cleared from "Fehlerspeicher" or Fault Memory. The BAD NEWS, is that if your original DME was replaced, the "New DME" does NOT contain that History Memory (unless there's a copy saved in another Module which has NOT been replaced, such as CAS?)

ANYONE know if "Historyspeicher", or a copy of that, is saved in any Module OTHER than DME, and if so, how to read it if DME is replaced?

In reviewing the Fault Code definitions provided by BMW Fault Code Lookup, it appears that MOST of the faults are related to communication between modules, or implausible inputs received by various modules, which raises question regarding work done related to the DME or any wiring related to the BUS Systems.

So if you want to take the time to try to diagnose this with the help of INPA, I am willing to try to provide information on how to connect to each pertinent Module and get more information. If you would provide answers to the following questions, that would help prioritize the diagnostic process:

1) You stated in your first post that after changing the VC, you "changed the fuse on the battery and everything was good." What exactly did you change?
The entire Rear Power Distribution Panel that sits on top of the battery and contains the "fusible links" as a unit?

1a) BEFORE changing the VC, did you disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal? Did you ever get sparks during the R&R of the VC?

2) Were there any known faults or performance issues AFTER you cleaned the VANOS Solenoids -- BEFORE the "Start Issues" began?

3) Did you or anyone else Scan for Fault Codes either BEFORE or AFTER the Solenoids were cleaned, and if so, what codes were found at that time?

4) You stated after Start issues began that you "Figured out that starter was dead and dme/ecu fried." What tests or Fault Codes done by you/mechanic were performed or read which you believe indicated such a thing?

5) You stated "key was able to come out when dme/ecu was disconnected" -- I presume you mean you could NOT withdraw the Remote Key from the Insert Compartment simply by pressing it inward to release catches with a click and then gently withdrawing it? WHAT exactly did you have to disconnect (describe wire & location) related to the DME to be able to remove the Remote Key?

6) You stated "Mechanic told me that dme fried up the starter and we decided to change it and swapped a used one from another car and coded it." WHAT Fault Codes or tests of any kind suggested there was any fault in the Original DME, and WHERE is that DME NOW?

7) Was the Starter ever changed, and if so, by whom? What did you understand the mechanic to mean by "fried up the starter"?

8) WHAT did the mechanic tell you as to how the DME had anything to do with powering or activating the Starter? (The CAS activates the Starter Solenoid by signal sent from CAS directly to the Starter Solenoid, and the POWER for the Starter Motor comes directly from the Battery via LARGE B+ cable, with NO DME involvement).

9) You stated "Push start button doesn't start the car instead it just turns on the electronics and i have to jumpstart the car by connecting some kind of wire with the +ve terminal in the hood near the dme/ecu." Can you describe EXACTLY WHAT points you are "connecting" with a wire (photos identifying exact points please)? Does that cause the Starter to crank immediately upon "connecting" those points, or does it just allow "Normal" START button operation? How LONG do you leave that wire connected? (THAT is PROBABLY an extreme safety hazard and also risks damaging electronics if you are "hotwiring" directly from the "Jumpstart" terminal with the Red Plastic Cover).

10) You stated "Mechanic told that there is some transmission issue and it needs to be replaced ( as told by him: car dme/ecu doesn't know which gear it is and is not shifting up/down)." When did you first experience any performance issue or symptom with transmission shifting, or see any "Gear" warning icon on the Instrument Cluster? Was that BEFORE or AFTER replacement of the DME? You only have ONE Fault Code related to EGS (Transmission) and that is: 5658 | EGS: Gearbox-position sensor: malfunction | gs1912. That sensor is located in the transmission, but it is NOT clear if the sensor itself has failed, or if there is a wiring/ connector/ communication error.

11) WHERE is the vehicle at this time? Is it at the "mechanic's" shop, your residence, someplace else? Are you able to drive it at all?

12) WHAT performance faults does it have at this time?

13) Does the Transmission shift normally, Park, R, N, D, M/S, and does it upshift/downshift normally in either D, M/S or M1 to M2, etc.?

This is a challenge, and we need to know where to start. Your answers to the questions above will allow us to decide that. My initial impression is multiple electrical issues caused by making "repairs" without understanding the electrical circuits (which are ALL available to ANYONE using TIS Online Service Manual).

George

[prince328i]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I hope your diagnosing physician is capable and able to give a "Negative Diagnosis" which is actually a "Positive Thing."

I must say your 328i's diagnosis is "Challenging." I'm willing to help you see what can be learned from existing Fault Code Definitions, Freeze Frame Data, Fault Details, and doing other Diagnostic Tests, but just to make sure we're on the same page here, I have NOT had to do anything this involved myself, and it WILL be a learning process.

1) I will provide you with information on how to connect to the pertinent modules to get as much information as we can, but

2) YOU need to try to get as much information as possible from any shop involved in "Repairs" and provide that, and answers to questions below related to "History."

I don't want to be negative in my attitude, or cause you angst, but we need to fully understand your vehicle's "Recent History" and have as complete an understanding of the sequence of events as possible, and it MAY be that new issues have been injected into the analysis by R&R steps taken by others, and obtaining any records of Fault Code Scans or other diagnostics done by others MIGHT be helpful if still available.

So, like investigating ANY event or period of activity, the FIRST step is to identify the sources of DATA, information, or History, that are still available, and to make sure that information is NOT lost or destroyed, but rather is preserved and copies obtained, whether Electronic format or paper format. If your original DME was replaced, WHO did that, and WHERE is the Original DME NOW? Can you get it back???

What you have identified so far is (1) Carly scan you did at some unidentified date (please try to estimate & provide the date you obtained the screens you attached to your post #3, dated 8/3/2019 in this thread); (2) INPA Functional Jobs F2 (Module ID) and F4 (Fault Codes in ALL Modules) read from Module Memory on 8/12/19 @ 5+ PM.

If a shop was involved in diagnosing any issue, either BEFORE or SINCE the VC replacement, please try to get as much information on codes read, diagnostics performed, etc. as you can, particularly as it relates to diagnosis of any DME issue, replacement of the DME, if the original DME is still available, etc. It would be helpful to have AS MANY details still available as possible related to ANYTHING done by you or others in the weeks/months related to VC fault diagnosis & NOW.

If a shop replaced your original DME, please try to get as many technical details as possible about: (1) what was done to identify the variant and programming of your Original DME, (2) what was done in identifying that information related to any Replacement DME (3) what programming or flashing of the Replacment DME was performed, HOW & WHY; (4) SPECIFICALLY what steps were done to Synchronize the DME and CAS after installation of Replacement DME?

There is a REASON that Bentley provides the first steps of VC Replacement, at 113-3, p.154 of pdf:

"Cylinder head cover, removing and installing (non-turbo)
- Use scan tool to read out and record ECM fault memory.
- Switch ignition OFF and remove key."

AND TIS states: remove Negative Battery Terminal

The good news is that we can get "Historyspeicher" or Memory History from the DME, which includes History of Fault Codes that have been cleared from "Fehlerspeicher" or Fault Memory. The BAD NEWS, is that if your original DME was replaced, the "New DME" does NOT contain that History Memory (unless there's a copy saved in another Module which has NOT been replaced, such as CAS?)

ANYONE know if "Historyspeicher", or a copy of that, is saved in any Module OTHER than DME, and if so, how to read it if DME is replaced?

In reviewing the Fault Code definitions provided by BMW Fault Code Lookup, it appears that MOST of the faults are related to communication between modules, or implausible inputs received by various modules, which raises question regarding work done related to the DME or any wiring related to the BUS Systems.

So if you want to take the time to try to diagnose this with the help of INPA, I am willing to try to provide information on how to connect to each pertinent Module and get more information. If you would provide answers to the following questions, that would help prioritize the diagnostic process:

1) You stated in your first post that after changing the VC, you "changed the fuse on the battery and everything was good." What exactly did you change?
The entire Rear Power Distribution Panel that sits on top of the battery and contains the "fusible links" as a unit?

1a) BEFORE changing the VC, did you disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal? Did you ever get sparks during the R&R of the VC?

2) Were there any known faults or performance issues AFTER you cleaned the VANOS Solenoids -- BEFORE the "Start Issues" began?

3) Did you or anyone else Scan for Fault Codes either BEFORE or AFTER the Solenoids were cleaned, and if so, what codes were found at that time?

4) You stated after Start issues began that you "Figured out that starter was dead and dme/ecu fried." What tests or Fault Codes done by you/mechanic were performed or read which you believe indicated such a thing?

5) You stated "key was able to come out when dme/ecu was disconnected" -- I presume you mean you could NOT withdraw the Remote Key from the Insert Compartment simply by pressing it inward to release catches with a click and then gently withdrawing it? WHAT exactly did you have to disconnect (describe wire & location) related to the DME to be able to remove the Remote Key?

6) You stated "Mechanic told me that dme fried up the starter and we decided to change it and swapped a used one from another car and coded it." WHAT Fault Codes or tests of any kind suggested there was any fault in the Original DME, and WHERE is that DME NOW?

7) Was the Starter ever changed, and if so, by whom? What did you understand the mechanic to mean by "fried up the starter"?

8) WHAT did the mechanic tell you as to how the DME had anything to do with powering or activating the Starter? (The CAS activates the Starter Solenoid by signal sent from CAS directly to the Starter Solenoid, and the POWER for the Starter Motor comes directly from the Battery via LARGE B+ cable, with NO DME involvement).

9) You stated "Push start button doesn't start the car instead it just turns on the electronics and i have to jumpstart the car by connecting some kind of wire with the +ve terminal in the hood near the dme/ecu." Can you describe EXACTLY WHAT points you are "connecting" with a wire (photos identifying exact points please)? Does that cause the Starter to crank immediately upon "connecting" those points, or does it just allow "Normal" START button operation? How LONG do you leave that wire connected? (THAT is PROBABLY an extreme safety hazard and also risks damaging electronics if you are "hotwiring" directly from the "Jumpstart" terminal with the Red Plastic Cover).

10) You stated "Mechanic told that there is some transmission issue and it needs to be replaced ( as told by him: car dme/ecu doesn't know which gear it is and is not shifting up/down)." When did you first experience any performance issue or symptom with transmission shifting, or see any "Gear" warning icon on the Instrument Cluster? Was that BEFORE or AFTER replacement of the DME? You only have ONE Fault Code related to EGS (Transmission) and that is: 5658 | EGS: Gearbox-position sensor: malfunction | gs1912. That sensor is located in the transmission, but it is NOT clear if the sensor itself has failed, or if there is a wiring/ connector/ communication error.

11) WHERE is the vehicle at this time? Is it at the "mechanic's" shop, your residence, someplace else? Are you able to drive it at all?

12) WHAT performance faults does it have at this time?

13) Does the Transmission shift normally, Park, R, N, D, M/S, and does it upshift/downshift normally in either D, M/S or M1 to M2, etc.?

This is a challenge, and we need to know where to start. Your answers to the questions above will allow us to decide that. My initial impression is multiple electrical issues caused by making "repairs" without understanding the electrical circuits (which are ALL available to ANYONE using TIS Online Service Manual).

George

Hello again and Thanks for the "Negative Diagnosis" "Positive thing".

The car was acting quite good before these issues appeared. It was running all good in April until May 2019. I think car is linked to my health as it also became sick as I got cancer lol.

From the begining, Everything was running good but suddenly on my way to college, I found that smoke is coming out from the hood but it was rare incident. Again after 5-6 days, smoke was coming out more than last time, so I check the engine bay and found Valve cover gasket seems to be bad so decided to change it. I found oil coming out from the side of the COVER and tried to clean it which led me to OIL POOLS IN IGNITION COILS( just 1,2,3,4 other were clean NO OIL IN THE PLUGS). THEN, I found a BIG CRACK IN THE VALVE COVER. So I order a new one from ebay..

THE PROBLEM BEGINS HERE.....

THERE WERE NO REPAIR ISSUES BEFORE JUST OIL,PLUGS, COIL CHANGE.

1 I DISCONNECTED THE POSITIVE TERMINAL WHICH I THINK WAS ACCESSORIES WIRE AND THIS WAS USELESS. NO I DIDN'T DISCONNECTED NEGATIVE TERMINAL

I CHANGED THE COVER AS TUTORIALS FROM YOUTUBE AND TOOK EVERY PRECAUTION TO PREVENT SPARKS.

I placed the valvetronic motor back and tried to relearn a little bit AND ACCIDENTLY, I TOUCHED THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ACROSS IT and It was SPARK.
I connected everything and CAR DIDN't START. I tried to figure out "WHAT HAPPENED" and I found it next day that it was valvetronic motor issue with relay. So I bought a new relay from BMW store but it didn't work.

I FOUND a trick to drive the car by relearning the motor manually by allen key and we used it for a week until I found the cure.

Later, I FOUND that valvetronic motor has a direct supply from battery and there is distribution box with the uncommon fuses. I checked fuses for CONTINUITY with A multimeter and BOOM the fuse was blown for the motor. SO, I just placed the wire to next terminal which was empty by making some adjustments. Finally, the car was running fine(NO SMOKE).

AFTER some 2 weeks, I was coming back from my work and car started to hesitate, jerk ( i can't explain. It was dropping rpm up and down swiftly like it got an heart attack), So I removed my foot from accelerator and it was all good again but STOP Sign, car STALLED and I restarted the car and came home and the car was Stuttering when I Parked.

NEXT day every thing started good but suddenly it felt like gears are shifting down quickly when i pressed the gas pedal hard. Again, car hesitated and I have to remove my foot from the accelerator but on smooth acceleration, the same thing was happening and I matched the HARD AND SMOOTH ACCELERATION and figured out when problem only occurs at 3000+ rpms.

I pulled some codes through CARLY on july 2nd and it was showing Ignition power supply along with air mixture control. Again with the help of this site, I FOUND MAF sensor and cleaned it, but nothing changed.

I was clueless, So took the car to the mechanic.


2:)) He took out some consideration by himself and said STALLING WAS due to solenoids (but there were no codes).
AND I Think he was right because car has not stalled again yet.

he cleaned the engine bay with degreaser then with water and left it to dry in the sun.( battery wasn't disconnected)

he took the car for test run and he stopped frequently and it didn't stall.( at that time I thought maybe later, it will definitely stall lol,but it didn't)

and we were heading back to the shop and parked the car there, everything was fine so he said "Drive it for a week and if problem returns, bring the car to shop" ( he didn't charged me for this ) . Then, I sat in the car and BOOM! BAM! BAM!..... car didn't start.

3:He tried to pull the codes but nothing was there, So he checked the fuse box in the Glove box( meanwhile I checked and found KEY FOB was not coming out ( NO clicking ). HE removed the ignition relay/fuse and Key fob came out. He thought relay is bad and kindly replaced it from his own BMW but it didn't work.

It was late night so I left for home.

4:Next day on July 11, he called and said " starter has gone out and need replacement, if you want you can check". I went there and he was replacing the starter. He checked old starter with some battery and gave it to me to confirm the fault with any mechanic.(TRUST ISSUES lol)

But, it didn't worked then Tracing the diagram in his head, mechanic went to the ECU and disconnected it and replaced the ignition relay/fuse.

5:SO, he found that ECU is bad( said" short circuit " ) because key FOB comes out when ECU was disconnected and vice versa.

6:NO CODES WERE SHOWN ... also History stored in other module shows nothing but the old codes.
SO, we ordered an ECU from used car with same specs after reading some numbers from the OLD ECU and called a programmer to code/program it.

7: ANSWERED IN NUMBER 4.
AFTER All, he made a theory that the engine ground wire was hanging and one of the ground wire between 1st and 2nd plugs was not connected and also the bolt between the 1st and 2nd ignition coil was loose. he said" loose wires and bolt led to short circuit the ECU which in turn made the starter go out( as I said STARTER BLOWN/FRIED).

8:
This was horrific because I Had Tightened each and every nut and bolt in a sequenced manner and I triple checked them. So, when I question him that " why he replaced the starter before he figures out the problem" his intentions went bad and he started blaming me for the wires.
AT last he had NO answer to my question.

After that, I went to hospital for a week for my treatment . On my first day of treatment, I called him to know what's going on with car and he said" the programmer guy is programming the ECU and the car will be ready tomorrow ". Next day my uncle went to pick the car, and he started to give instructions on how to start the car ,,,, TRICKY WIRE JUMP START METHOD.

9:
TO START THE CAR ,,, The trick is:
1--- put the key in and push the start button and turn on ignition mode( turn on all lights in the cluster MUST )
2---open the hood and go toward passenger side when ECU is located.
3---CONNECT the wire coming out of the BOX to POSITIVE BLACK terminal.
4---BOOM! CAR cranks right after connecting wire and starts in 1 to 3 seconds..( NO PUSH button involved in cranking the engine as it was just used initially to turn on the car)

Later, It was difficult to open the hood every time so he passed wire directly from Battery in the rear to the driver seat and also extended the wire from ECU TO DRIVER SEAT so we can start from inside.

10:: Transmission issues started after 2 weeks from changing the VALVE COVER. I was going on the highway at 90 km/h on June 22 and suddenly when pressed hard to go above 110 km/h to enjoy the speed , car started to jerk and I saw RPMs were doing crazy up and downs.... and I removed my foot accelerator and car was stable and signs came up ( just 4X4 )


CARly scans were done on June 22nd and June 29.
The transmission error was there before stating "NO Communication with DME" (NO GEAR ICON)

11:: The Car is at home and Yes, It is drivable but not with complete joy ( BEEMER GUY JOY ) )


12:: Car starts but not runs with full power as it was before. Transmission feels like " CHILD MODE" doesn't go to manual mode ,, stuck in automatic mode (gear lever moves but it doesn't changes anything) ( Also, no indication of gear is showing in the cluster).
In automatic mode, It feels like car doesn't shift up from 2nd gear to 3rd( it is stuck in 1st and 2nd gear,,, as I said it FEELS but it does go up to 60-80 kmph but rpms went high tooo)

Update: On August 23rd, I tried to look under centre console and just unplugged and plugged the connectors for gear knob. And did nothing and reinstalled the trim and tried to start the car and it didn't.

Clicking sound was coming from under the gear knob mechanism and sometimes it keeps clicking until I turn off the power and take the key out( Only occur when i connect the same wires to start the car )
When I connect both wires engine crank a little and then it feels like it is not getting enough power . Also, cluster lights dims when wires are connected.
Car was parked from last 6 days and It was able to start for 4 times as I took it to BMexculif for the repair but they really lack knowledge and I left as the guy stated that car NEEDs a new ECU and costs about CA$2000
I took the car back home and parked it in the street and I think battery is low. Hopefully tomorrow, I will try to jump start from my friend's car and then post regarding this

13:: Yes, car shifts from P to R<N<D but it jerks when it shifts. and for manual M1,M2,----M6 , it doesn't work at all ( NO indication either). More information is already stated in 12::


I don't know what to do with the car, I love it But as said Love hurts..And Mechanics doesn't even have any knowledge in this city. So, I think I will do most of the work by myself .

Help is always appreciated

Thanks a lot to George and all other for helping out

[prince328i]

hello everyone,
the problem is really confusing and I tried newtis.info to study the car electronics diagrams but it left me in confusion with the problems. As per my previous post about the answers to George's question, I have some new updates regarding the functioning of the car.
Update:

Recently, Car wasn't able to start but there were some clicking, I thought it was because of Battery.
the battery in the car was Aftermarket,not even of same type it should be, It was some cheap Lead acid battery from Carquest . So, I went to Canadian tire to check the battery and some other mechanics who helped in charging the battery. But,the battery was not holding any charge and it was showing 10 volts instead of 12. So, I took the battery to dealership and they said it has different specs and the battery doesn't supposed to be in this car.
So, I went to OEM battery worth $350 and plugged it into the car and CAR STARTED.

Car starts same as before with "the direct Positive from the battery connected to some unknown white wire which passes into Bigger Hose over the the Engine from DME towards the Starter" METHOD. It seems like the
White Wire was already there before and was taken out from some point from DME box.

Okay the car start and idles between 500-600 rpms.
When I shift the gear from PARK to REVERSE OR TO DRIVE, It jerks hard every time and drives. Reverse gear engages a little bit late(2-3 seconds).

While driving in Automatic, car just shifts to 2nd gear( smoothly no jerking ).
It seems like the Transmission is working in Restricted Mode.
Also, a new issue I found is that car shakes/vibrates/stutters ( sometimes) while accelerating after a Full stop, then I restart it and everything seems fine.

1.)Car doesn't go to manual transmission mode( just automatic mode restricted to 2nd gear).

2.) No gear indication in Cluster (no P,R,N,D or M1, M2---M6).

3.)What does THE WHITE WIRE do in starting the car?

4.)Do I need new transmission?

5.) Is there anything to do with Neutral Safety switch?

6.)Will changing the transmission oil help( I have no record when it was changed, I bought it from someone who also installed cheap aftermarket battery.So I can't say, she changed it or not)?

7.)Will ISTA help in getting more detail, if so where should I download it, i am not able to find a right one?

Thanks
Yours Sincerely,
Prince