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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Harmonic balancer install DIY



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      06-21-2017, 03:45 PM   #23
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      06-30-2017, 01:14 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik325tds View Post
Once the engine is locked in place it is quite easy to remove the bolts using the E12 torx. Watch for the pulley falling off the crankshaft when you remove the last bolt.
Per workshop manual the new bolts (definitely replace the bolts!) are to be tightened crosswise to 40Nm and then tightened another 120 degrees. I felt that 120 degrees was a little too much (maybe my torque wrench wasn’t accurate at 40Nm) so I only turned each screw about 90 degrees in 45 degree crosswise intervals.
The rest of the assembly is in reverse order. Remember to remove the engine lock and turn the engine only in its running direction when putting the A/C belt back on.
I am struggling with the install of the new A/C belt. I have the Lisle tool, which worked great for removal.

And followed all the steps up to needing to install the A/C belt. I am fearful that I am over-torquing the HB bolts as I attempt to turn the engine over to install the A/C belt. The Lisle tool gets almost to 3 o'clock on the HB but does not want to get past 3 o'clock. I feel the bolts tightening but the belt is keeping the HB / engine from turning that necessary 15 to 20 degrees, at which time the belt would pull itself on.

I am stumped. Any words of advice?
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      06-30-2017, 07:27 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rulonger View Post
I am struggling with the install of the new A/C belt. I have the Lisle tool, which worked great for removal.

And followed all the steps up to needing to install the A/C belt. I am fearful that I am over-torquing the HB bolts as I attempt to turn the engine over to install the A/C belt. The Lisle tool gets almost to 3 o'clock on the HB but does not want to get past 3 o'clock. I feel the bolts tightening but the belt is keeping the HB / engine from turning that necessary 15 to 20 degrees, at which time the belt would pull itself on.

I am stumped. Any words of advice?
Hey rulonger, I unlocked the engine after tightening the HB bolts, but before install of A/C belt so I could spin the HB and get the A/C belt on. Also, for whatever reason it was a bit of a pita getting the a/c belt to line up correctly in pulley grooves. No way I could have gotten it done with motor locked down.
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      06-30-2017, 07:32 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
Hey rulonger, I unlocked the engine after tightening the HB bolts, but before install of A/C belt so I could spin the HB and get the A/C belt on. Also, for whatever reason it was a bit of a pita getting the a/c belt to line up correctly in pulley grooves. No way I could have gotten it done with motor locked down.
I unlocked the motor (removed hex wrench from hole located at engine / tranny junction), so engine 'could' turn over. Finally ended up putting on the old belt. I will replace belt another day.

EDIT for additional comments: The old A/C belt that I removed was the 830mm version. I did not order the 830mm version as in the list provided by Mik325tds because I had read the SIB about the fix for a squeaking belt, which changed the A/C belt to the 825mm version. With the 830mm belt on the car I had never experienced a squeaking belt. So as my dad would say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". In hindsight, I think I should have just purchased a new 830mm A/C belt and I would have avoided the PITA of trying in vain to install the shorter belt.

FWIW - for those that will tackle this repair and have not had a squeaking belt issue - stick with the original 830mm version.
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Last edited by rulonger; 06-30-2017 at 10:46 AM..
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      06-30-2017, 07:44 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rulonger View Post
I unlocked the motor (removed hex wrench from hole located at engine / tranny junction), so engine 'could' turn over. Finally ended up putting on the old belt. I will replace belt another day.
Ahh, got it...Sorry, I misread and thought you missed the unlocking part. I noticed on the NA M57 Facebook page that someone also recently ran into issues with a short belt, even though it was correct p/n. I had no issues with the contitech listed in SIB.
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      06-30-2017, 10:53 PM   #28
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Try turning the belts from the power steering pump with a Allen wrench. That's what I did for installing the AC belt on a 335d.
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      07-01-2017, 09:51 AM   #29
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I used the short belt and did not have any issue with getting it on, not hard to turn at all. Sounds like somehow you got a wrong belt
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      07-01-2017, 10:40 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoooper View Post
I used the short belt and did not have any issue with getting it on, not hard to turn at all. Sounds like somehow you got a wrong belt
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      07-01-2017, 11:42 PM   #31
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Has any 1 been able to get the continental crank pulley. That's what guys in Germany are using. I'm wondering why we can't use a billet aluminum crank pulley. There made for the m3 m5 335i
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      07-08-2017, 06:53 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNNYBRAVO1 View Post
Has any 1 been able to get the continental crank pulley. That's what guys in Germany are using. I'm wondering why we can't use a billet aluminum crank pulley. There made for the m3 m5 335i
We talked about it in the Facebook group awhile back. Diesel engines have a lot of crank vibration. Without all of the rubber dampening the vibrations, it would be uncomfortable and damaging. It's for that reason we can't use a straight aluminum pulley.
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      07-13-2017, 10:28 PM   #33
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Just wanted to pass on my thanks to the original poster and additional contributors. It certainly made this MUCH easier than going at it blindly. By pure luck, the keyhole on the flywheel was already lined up with the hole in the engine block. The only issued I ran into was me improperly re-attaching the charge pipe to the throttle body. Car definitely runs like crap if its not hooked up right. Panicked for a few minutes until I figured it out.
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      08-22-2017, 10:25 AM   #34
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Ok, so the squeal just started in my 335d and I have 123K miles on mine. The AC belt was replaced in 2012 under the "SI B64 08 11 - AC Compressor Squeal" campaign when the car had 26K miles on it. I know there is another thread out there titled:

"2011 335d - Occasional Belt Squeal at Start Up"
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=640811

But I am posting in this Harmonic DIY thread as I am not sure whether my issue stems from the need to replace the Harmonic balancer along with the serpentine belt and other pulleys, or is it the case that the AC belt is prone to exhibiting the same squeal/squeak issue again after almost 100K miles on the new belt? If this question is not appropriate for this thread, I apologize, and can move my discussion over to the other thread I mentioned above.

Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by dextersl; 08-22-2017 at 10:35 AM..
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      08-22-2017, 01:17 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dextersl View Post
Ok, so the squeal just started in my 335d and I have 123K miles on mine. The AC belt was replaced in 2012 under the "SI B64 08 11 - AC Compressor Squeal" campaign when the car had 26K miles on it. I know there is another thread out there titled:

"2011 335d - Occasional Belt Squeal at Start Up"
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=640811

But I am posting in this Harmonic DIY thread as I am not sure whether my issue stems from the need to replace the Harmonic balancer along with the serpentine belt and other pulleys, or is it the case that the AC belt is prone to exhibiting the same squeal/squeak issue again after almost 100K miles on the new belt? If this question is not appropriate for this thread, I apologize, and can move my discussion over to the other thread I mentioned above.

Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
As with any belt, 100k miles is a long life. I would certainly inspect your Harmonic Balancer right now to see how it is. It will leave you stranded. But if it's in good shape, then the AC belt is probably the culprit. Does the squeak only happen when you turn the AC on?
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      08-22-2017, 02:10 PM   #36
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Actually on different mornings I have tried starting the car with the AC off and with it on. The squeak/squeal happens either way. Happens every morning now on a cold start and then the noise eventually goes away after the engine has been running for a short while.

This is why I was questioning whether the AC belt was actually the culprit in my situation seeing that the squeak/squeal happens regardless of whether the AC is on or not.
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      08-22-2017, 02:17 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dextersl View Post
Actually on different mornings I have tried starting the car with the AC off and with it on. The squeak/squeal happens either way. Happens every morning now on a cold start and then the noise eventually goes away after the engine has been running for a short while.

This is why I was questioning whether the AC belt was actually the culprit in my situation seeing that the squeak/squeal happens regardless of whether the AC is on or not.
Not the AC belt. Check your HB, then look at your serpentine belt. Both are probably needing to be replaced.
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      08-24-2017, 02:24 PM   #38
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Torqu3, thanks for the response!

I went ahead and ordered my parts from ecs yesterday. I know Mik325tds said he ended up not replacing the tensioner pulley/tensioner pulley assembly, and I did not see him make mention of replacing the deflection pulley either. So does anyone else have any advice on what specific process/tools are needed to remove replace these components? Just want to make sure I have everything I need before getting into it this weekend.
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      08-26-2017, 08:50 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dextersl View Post
Torqu3, thanks for the response!

I went ahead and ordered my parts from ecs yesterday. I know Mik325tds said he ended up not replacing the tensioner pulley/tensioner pulley assembly, and I did not see him make mention of replacing the deflection pulley either. So does anyone else have any advice on what specific process/tools are needed to remove replace these components? Just want to make sure I have everything I need before getting into it this weekend.
Attached is the procedure of replacing the tensioner as described in ISTA+. If you do the job, please post some pictures with your experience and additional insight in this thread.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf BeltTensioningDevice.pdf (163.2 KB, 179 views)
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      08-26-2017, 09:28 AM   #40
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I am also doing my crank pulley today. Nothing to do but watch it rain anyway!! Didn't even think about not having the socket for the bolts. Lucky the Napa 3 miles from my house had one.

Mik325tds, thanks much for putting the post together. I am mechanically inclined but with thee cars, it is so much easier when you have some guidance.
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      09-13-2017, 08:41 AM   #41
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Thanks for the DIY guide, Mik. I have a question regarding the serpentine belt size: You have it listed as a 2063mm belt, ECS Tuning sells a 2063mm belt, but FCPEuro lists the replacement as a 2065mm as well as the CRP Automotive Parts Catalog -- has anybody here used the 2065mm belt? I don't imagine that it would be a problem as the tensioner would take up that 2mm of slack without a problem.

I'll be replacing mine this weekend. I knew with 99,700 miles on the car and it exhibiting some warning signs (squealing) that replacement was a priority. I ordered all the parts yesterday morning and with predictable German precision, the HB failed eight hours later. I was hoping that the part would hold out until the Fluidampr was available, but you can't have everything I suppose.

Last edited by PerfectAce; 09-13-2017 at 08:48 AM..
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      09-13-2017, 09:01 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerfectAce View Post
You have it listed as a 2063mm belt, ECS Tuning sells a 2063mm belt, but FCPEuro lists the replacement as a 2065mm as well as the CRP Automotive Parts Catalog -- has anybody here used the 2065mm belt?
I got my parts from FCP and the serpentine belt was the 2065. No issues during or after the R&R of the harmonic balancer.
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      09-16-2017, 04:45 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rulonger View Post
I got my parts from FCP and the serpentine belt was the 2065. No issues during or after the R&R of the harmonic balancer.
Just finished the repair this afternoon and like you, could not get the shorter 824mm belt on. Ran into the same issue where i got the Lisle tool to pull the belt onto the crank pulley to about 3 o'clock and couldn't go any further. Maybe the other folks here were using the Lisle tool in a different (more clever?) way.

In any event, the only squealing my car seemed to have was in the weeks prior to the HB crapping out. I figure the squeal had less to do with the 830mm belt and more to do with a HB that had one foot in the grave and the other on a banana peel.

The old 830mm belt looked fine to me so I put that back on.
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      10-10-2017, 02:01 AM   #44
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Well i hope i didnt screw this up, i just replaced the balancer and I torqued the 4 bolts but i read it wrong and did 40 ft lbs instead of Nm😱

However I also only did about 90 degrees instead of 120 as there really isnt room to go past 90.

I feel like an idiot i hope they dont snap off, should i be worried??
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