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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > E91 tailgate won't lock - SOLVED



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      11-03-2019, 01:41 PM   #45
Tambohamilton
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I should have everything I need either way. I did spend days downloading 163GB or something when I installed it all. And I've got some decently up to date daten files too, I think.

I only have a k/dcan cable though (decent one), no ICOM...would that be an issue? Sounds like a good excuse to use my power supply too
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      11-03-2019, 04:58 PM   #46
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I *think* you can do it with k/dcan, just slower. I know you can flash with winkfp with just k/dcan. I've always used my China knockoff icom for ista though
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      11-03-2019, 04:59 PM   #47
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Cool, thanks. I'll have a read up on winkfp then.
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      11-08-2019, 03:46 PM   #48
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I don't think that updating your JBBF flash will solve the issue.

First of all, if some of your CAS info doesn't match your car info then the FA (a list with all the option the car has, and a list of the identifiers) is wrong, or from another car. You can easily read your CAS FA with NCS expert with a K/DCAN cable. I suggest that you also read your NFRM FA and compare both of them, also paste the info here.

Did you removed pin 44 from the blue connector of the JBBF?; do this and try to see if the tailgate closes as it should.
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      11-08-2019, 04:40 PM   #49
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I default coded CAS using the CAS FA and the frm FA, and both returned the same settings and behaviours... This was just with protool though - I haven't had time to get the laptop out yet.

I've now got the wiring repair harness for the tailgate, so I'm aiming to fit that before I do anything else. When I get it wired up, I'll do more testing if it still doesn't behave.

Thanks for the help!
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      11-08-2019, 05:49 PM   #50
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Post some pics of the repair harness you bought, I am interested on how they(the harness manufacturers) provide you the connection from their harness to the cars wiring. How much did it cost? A link with the product ?
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      11-09-2019, 02:39 AM   #51
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I bought this one:
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/herthbuss-elparts/7562994
Far too much money for what it really is (100ish delivered), but comes with everything needed. And I didn't think the cheaper versions had the correct wire gauges.

No pics yet, but the connectors on the harness are crimps with heatshrink. The harness also comes preassembled in a rubber grommet thing. And it has barb fittings with a replacement section of washer hose. It seems good quality, but still a sting at 100 I feel.

Here are all the products I'm aware of:
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=51277141

I had in the back of my mind that Herth + Buss were the OE manufacturer for BMW cable harnesses - was I right?
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      11-25-2019, 11:03 PM   #52
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      11-26-2019, 01:21 AM   #53
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Not had time to do anything on it, sadly...might be another month until I do too!
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      12-03-2019, 02:20 PM   #54
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Minor update today; emailed Protool about the strange coding options in my CAS. Turns out that lots of the options are actually duplicated. Meaning, for 8spd and 6spd options the actual code value is 06. Same for v8 and M57 (1E), if I remember rightly.

One exception is that my car is set to 04 for fuel type which corresponds to gasoline direct injection, even though it 'should' be set to 06 for diesel direct injection. They say if it's working, and especially if those are the default values, leave it as it is.

I'm hoping to get the tailgate hinge wiring repair done around Xmas.......

Edit 26 Feb 2020: Current beta version of Protool has fixed many of the misreported coding options in CAS. The remaining ones should be fixed soon - thanks Bimmergeeks!

Last edited by Tambohamilton; 02-26-2020 at 03:58 PM..
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      12-03-2019, 03:08 PM   #55
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worst case, you could take the wire that goes from the tailgate button to the JBE, and cut a physical switch into it and stick that in your glove box, similar to how a convertible can lock out the trunk.

once that is done, if the switch is off, the button on the trunk lid won't work, but the button on your remote should still work, if you cut the right wire.

or just unplug the trunk lid button entirely
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      01-08-2020, 04:14 AM   #56
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The thread above was useful to me when I had a similar issue.

My issue was:
"e91 boot hatch UN locking issues"

but with clock and trip mileage resets too.

So I link to my thread in case it's useful to anyone else:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...php?p=25644804
I included all threads I read.
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      01-08-2020, 04:32 AM   #57
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I'm working through repairing the wires at the hinge now. Turns out I bought the wrong repair harness for my car, so there are the wrong number of wires, and the colours don't match...but never mind, I've added the necessary wires, and I'll make the colours work. After all, a lot of repair harnesses are all one colour!

Main headache right now is that I broke the washer hose when disassembling, and the barb connectors supplied with the repair harness barely fit the section of hose in the repair harness. I've ordered a handful of different barb connectors, because it's so hard to tell what size they really are!

I've got all the wires on the outside connected up, and in position...doing the inside wires over the next few evenings. Fingers crossed everything works when I reconnect the battery!!
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      01-10-2020, 02:23 PM   #58
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Got the wiring all finished up today. Had to buy some connectors to fit the washer hose, which was annoying, but never mind. Probably wouldn't buy the Herth & Buss harness again, just because of the washer hose. Everything else seemed nice quality though.

And, the tailgate still doesn't lock, exactly the same as before. Still, at least it's another job ticked off.

I've since heard of someone who had the same symptoms as me, but on an e61, and fixed it by replacing the latch mechanism. So that's one vote for and one against... I'm going to check voltages at the latch connector again, because I got some weird 8v output there last time I checked. If that all checks out, I'm going to look at the tailgate and glass button/switches. If they seem fine, I'll replace the latch mechanism.

If it wasn't such a farce to attach pictures to posts, I'd show you all some of the wiring repair... But never mind!
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      01-10-2020, 10:58 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Tambohamilton View Post
Got the wiring all finished up today. Had to buy some connectors to fit the washer hose, which was annoying, but never mind. Probably wouldn't buy the Herth & Buss harness again, just because of the washer hose. Everything else seemed nice quality though.

And, the tailgate still doesn't lock, exactly the same as before. Still, at least it's another job ticked off.

I've since heard of someone who had the same symptoms as me, but on an e61, and fixed it by replacing the latch mechanism. So that's one vote for and one against... I'm going to check voltages at the latch connector again, because I got some weird 8v output there last time I checked. If that all checks out, I'm going to look at the tailgate and glass button/switches. If they seem fine, I'll replace the latch mechanism.

If it wasn't such a farce to attach pictures to posts, I'd show you all some of the wiring repair... But never mind!
Wow i was hoping that was the problem i change latch mechanism and the push button to no avail
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      01-11-2020, 12:52 AM   #60
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Yep, me too...though I knew it wasn't when I saw the wires I was replacing. The insulation was splitting, but my previous quick repairs had taken care of nearly all of that. There was just nothing which would be causing any issues. Also my issue has never been intermittent, so whatever the problem is, it's a definite failure - even if it is an ECU.
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      01-11-2020, 05:27 PM   #61
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I have 2 spare latch mechanisms, 2 sets of release buttons, and a spare JBE... my JBE is coded for a 328xi e91, not sure if it would be useful to either of you...
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      01-11-2020, 05:34 PM   #62
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Thanks, but I'm in the UK...
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      01-11-2020, 05:47 PM   #63
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There are planes and boats that go between our countries now!
But yeah, probably not worth it.
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      01-12-2020, 01:50 AM   #64
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Fook me! Really!?
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      02-07-2020, 09:18 AM   #65
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Had another little poke around today; removed the tailgate latch mechanism and tested it and the connector on the body side too. Got the following results:

Latch:
When in the open position, continuity between pins 1, 3, & 4.
Closed position, cont between 2, 3, & 4.
Always continuity between 3 & 4, never continuity between 1 & 2.

Connector:
1 & 3 cont to body ground.
2 intermittent ground, pulsing around 1Hz steady. I tried checking resistance, but my cheap old multimiter wasn't really responsive enough to get anything useful. It was definitely changing though.
4 no ground.
Now this is where it got really weird...
1 - 3, no voltage.
2 - 3, 12v.
3 - 4, 8v for like a second, then 0v. At this point I went back and checked 2 - 3; 0v.

Now, what I'm reading from the latch outputs is that it's working correctly. Pin 3 is body ground, so when it's closed it's connecting pin 1 to ground which completes the circuit for the tailgate interior lights. When it's open it's connecting pin 2 to ground, which sends the open signal to the JBBF. Pins 3 & 4 are reading as always connected, because that's the latch motor circuit (there is continuity through the motor).

On the connector side, it's all weird...
Pin 3 is ground; that's correct.
Pin 1 should be connected to battery +ve, so I shouldn't get continuity to ground there? Unless some control module has switched the other side of the light circuit to ground too, when there's no open signal to the JBBF??
Pin 2...wtf? JBBF doing something weird there...way over my head. Doesn't seem right, but maybe it is?
Pin 4, seems as expected.

At this point, I don't really know what to do. I can't find anything wrong with the latch, so I don't want to just throw a new part (££) at that. The JBBF doesn't seem to be broken (everything else works great), and I can't give a definite pass/fail on it or its wiring from my diagnostics.

Any help greatly appreciated!
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      02-07-2020, 09:46 AM   #66
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My guess is still that there's something wrong with either the CAS or the JBBF...

What I don't know is if the JBBF asks the CAS for permission to open the tailgate, or if the CAS tells the JBBF that the current state is locked and it relies on internal processing.

At this point if it was me, I'd grab a JBBF from a scrap yard.

Here's one from an E93 for 50: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324059301605
This one would obviously need to be coded, but at this point there are probably lots of e91's at the yards, so with a few calls you might be able to get one from an '07 e91/330d and then it would work as is (coding still recommended)

If not the JBBF, then the CAS would be my next target, but that requires marriage to the DME and possibly new keys, which is a complicated process involving more advanced coding tools and a priest.
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