|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
I'm going to preventatively replace my 72K N55 rod bearings
|
|
02-16-2019, 12:10 PM | #221 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
717
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Quote:
I can do so many things proactively including change ur bearings. And most will say no problem there. But why mess with oil ? Thats all i am saying. 5w-40 is great from liqui moly. Many great other options from quartz to fuchs to pentosin. So many great options. But when u say 10w we are automatically going back 20 years in oil technology. Thats 90s oil. Go 20w .. tractor oil. Lool |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-16-2019, 06:17 PM | #222 |
First Lieutenant
139
Rep 227
Posts |
Well... I just did my oil filter housing today (2nd time on this car) and my car died after 5 miles and won't restart like it's locked up. Im beside myself right now honestly. Did everything properly as far as I know, cleaned everything up. Let it idle for a good bit of time and then took it for a spin. No problem the first couple miles. Then tried to drive home and it stalled. Restarted, no problems or noises. Stalled twice more, then wouldn't restart after the last one. Never heard any knocking. No codes stored. Starter clicks but nothing happens. Not looking forward to this.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-16-2019, 06:51 PM | #223 | |
Private First Class
123
Rep 109
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-16-2019, 07:15 PM | #224 |
First Lieutenant
78
Rep 239
Posts |
Okay cool, now im never going to change my ofhg yikes wtf
__________________
2011 335i M-Sport E92
MHD E30 | Phoenix Racing CP | K&N Drop In Air Filter |Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP | xHP Stage 3 | VRSF DP | ARM 5" FMIC + Hose Upgrades | GFB DV+ | VMR 19" v703 |
Appreciate
0
|
02-16-2019, 08:07 PM | #225 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
717
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Quote:
Did you put oil in the housing after done (not saying this is what caused it because i didnt when i did mine 2 times) Did you drain the oil completely before the repair ? Or did you leave it as is. Just trying to see if there is any correlations. If this procedure causes any issues my take is the air in the oil passage causes a lock. Some type of air lock. Like air in cooling system. Trapped air. That the only thing i can think of. I didnt prime my engine and did this procedure 2 times. Obv didnt have this issue. But both times i didnt go for drive and i did not drain the oil prior to the work. I turned the car on for a bit then off. IT sat there for a bit before i drove again later in the day. The other members mentioned too that the lock happened during the drive. I have no idea why that would make a difference but only thing we can do in this forum as non experts is try to find correlations. We are not experts. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-16-2019, 08:08 PM | #226 |
Lieutenant Colonel
717
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Very very very few people do this priming work and have no issues but the priming might completely prevent this. I dont think many people do this or know about this.
|
Appreciate
1
TheMidnightNarwhal2594.50 |
02-16-2019, 08:55 PM | #227 |
First Lieutenant
139
Rep 227
Posts |
Well I'm fairly positive it's a rod bearing problem. I took the belt off and turned the motor by hand. It turns, but it's very rough in a couple of spots. If I back it off the rough spot and try to start it, the starter turns the motor until it hits the rough patch and just stops. Having it towed back to my shop now and I'll be taking off the pan and inspecting the bearings soon. I'll post pictures to this thread as well.
I did not prime the housing before starting it up. I have never done it before. I've changed dozens of these filter gaskets and never had a problem (on other people's cars of course.) This is the second or third time I've done it to my own. I made sure not to let anything get into the oil passages and made sure there were no remnants of shop rag or anything like that to get in there. In hindsight I wish I would have just poured some oil through there but I really can't believe that's all it takes to ruin a motor. I did remove the filter before taking anything apart, and let the oil drain down into the pan. I also did not drain the oil. My oil has about 3,000 miles on it so I figured it was good for a bit longer. I did the repair, started it and let the car idle for a few minutes after I was finished, then shut it off and let it sit for about half an hour. Then I did an alignment to it so I started it up and put it on the alignment rack, shut it off and it sat for another almost hour while I did that. Took it on a test drive and drove it easily (kept under 3k RPM) because I was worried about running into this problem. Didn't give me any problems, motor felt fine, no knocking noises or weird sensations. Further along the test drive, it stalled out (right after taking it out of gear and trying to coast) and I just chalked it up to my valvetronic acting weird or something. It fired right back up no problem. I pulled it into a parking lot and rev'd the motor in neutral. Held the revs everywhere in the 1000-3200 rpm range, listening for knocking but never heard anything out of the ordinary. After all that, I go to drive home. Driving it easily again, under 3k rpm, no problems at all. Decided to give it a little gas and get into boost (nowhere near WOT though, light boosting.) Got it up to about 4500 RPM and took it out of gear, motor immediately shut down once out of gear. It didn't act funny at all while it was accelerating. I had no reason to think there was a problem until I took it out of gear. I was nowhere near beating on this car, or even driving "spiritedly." Oil was at operating temperature before I ever got into boost, not a single code stored in the DME. This sucks though. I hope I can get away with just changing the bearings. Hopefully no damage done to the crank or block. I never heard any knock at all so I'm hoping that will be the case. 108k on my motor, always used BMW 5w30 and recently switched to German Castrol 0w40 for the last few oil changes. Edit: And sorry for kinda hijacking this thread, but I figured it was the most relevant one to the problem I'm running into. I know there's been a lot of debating when it comes to how and why this happens, and I'm just hoping that my input can help in some way. Plus I just wanted to vent about this BULLSHIT I'm running into. I literally JUST put on M3 control arms and realigned it and was soo happy with how it was handling, and then it just fuckin dies on me. It's been a rough saturday lol. Last edited by rich_mane; 02-16-2019 at 09:11 PM.. |
Appreciate
1
Pladi717.00 |
02-16-2019, 09:24 PM | #228 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
717
Rep 1,753
Posts |
Quote:
Ur not highjacking anything in my opinion. Ur experience says putting new bearings will not save u from this issue. Putting new bearings is nice but this motor lock up is weird AS FUKC You did pretty much the same thing as me. Eaxctly. Which is so odd. OBV the OFHG replacement had something to do with the failure. 1 coincidence ok. But there are way too many immediately after this rework. freaking BMW , this OFHG is such a pain in the f butt. HUGE design flaw. worry about this or worry about it spilling all over the belt... which can ALSO treat u with a motor fail. BMW FAIL |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-16-2019, 10:32 PM | #229 | |
Captain
250
Rep 667
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
TOTALED | 2011 E90 335i xDrive - BMS Cold Air Intake - ETS Charge Pipe - ETS 7" FMIC - MHD Stage 2+ - GFB DV+ - PE Mod - VRSF Catless Downpipe - xDelete - xHP Stage 3
2015 E84 X1 35i M-Sport |
|
Appreciate
1
Pladi717.00 |
02-17-2019, 05:38 AM | #230 |
Lieutenant Colonel
480
Rep 1,600
Posts |
I know this is mainly a 1/3 series group and I have heard some mention the issue happened on E70s also.
I'm from Australia and all our N55s have some form of oil cooling. 1/3 series get oil to air coolers with a thermostatic valve in place of the oil to coolant heat exchanger fitted to other series. Do all your 1/3 series N55s have oil coolers? If they do, then I wonder if the thermostat opening temperature has something to do with this issue? Most report the issue happening not immediately but after a brief drive or after picking up the vehicle from a workshop. Would that not correlate with the oil cooler thermostat opening up, thus allowing a pocket of air to circulate under load? (Nobody mentioned the engine seized whilst idling as far as i remember) |
Appreciate
1
Pladi717.00 |
02-17-2019, 09:27 AM | #231 | |
Major General
4275
Rep 9,205
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-17-2019, 11:03 AM | #232 | ||
Colonel
1207
Rep 2,025
Posts |
Quote:
Most people just have rod k ock and didn't actually "spin" the bearing shell in its bore. If they did spin a bearing then it was the result of heat/friction from failed bearings and/or oiling. There are other cases where spun bearings are the cause of failures due to insufficient crush and/or rod bore distortion. That does not seem to be the case with BMW rod bearing failures. So yeah, people use the term spin loosely and it can point to many different failure modes. Quote:
Yes, as you increase power it is generally accepted that you should open up the bearing clearances. I personally dont think oil weight has anything to do with this. Oil is always just the first logically red herring everyone jumps to when a bearing failure occurs. Fact of the matter is it's probably just bearing wear over time due to a variety of factors that all modern engines are dealing with... direct injection fuel dilution, tight tolerances and cold start lubrication, start/stop functions, high load and high operating temps(higher hp/liter output), etc... all been stated before. Like I've already said, even the s85 rod bearing pictures all look like normal wear and te as r just accelerated... once that outer layer of bearing material is gone a worn bearing becomes catastrophic failure. Last edited by bbnks2; 07-08-2019 at 07:34 AM.. |
||
Appreciate
1
Rube74.50 |
02-17-2019, 11:14 AM | #233 |
Colonel
1207
Rep 2,025
Posts |
Let's hope for your sake that it's not... if you can turn an engine over by hand then there is no reason it wont turn over with the starter. The "hard spots" are probably the peaks of the cam lobes that youre feeling push valves open.
Keep us updated. I've changed my ofhg so many times without issue it's just hard to believe. I did n oil cha ge yesterday and noted that the oil stays pooled in the housing and does not drain back to the pan. The oil pump holds oil. Changing oil/ gasket does not bleed an oil pump dry. The other issue I have with this air pocket theory is that how would the car not see the loss of oil pressure? The oil pressure sensor is literally right there on the ofh. The dome would've thrown a low oil pressure code and out you into limp mode. The ofhg job does seem to be a common denominator in leading to bearing failure. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-17-2019, 12:56 PM | #234 |
First Lieutenant
139
Rep 227
Posts |
I've turned motors by hand before, and it seems like it's just more effort than usual to get it to turn. But I was sorta happy to find that it wasn't just completely locked up.
I really wish I was logging the car to see what the oil pressure reading was at the time. One thing I did notice, my oil pressure sensor seemed to have oil inside of the connector. I cleaned the connector out and let it dry for a while before plugging it back in. I checked oil level 3 times before driving, it said it was full to the top. So I know oil was full. But I wonder if somehow the oil pressure sensor went bad and was just giving a false reading to the DME preventing it from going into limp mode. Idk. Then again, I could be having an issue totally separate and my mind is just going to the bearings after doing this ofhg replacement. I didn't look at it today, too pissed off still lol. So tomorrow I'll hopefully have more answers. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-17-2019, 01:28 PM | #235 | |
Private First Class
123
Rep 109
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-22-2019, 03:49 PM | #237 |
First Lieutenant
139
Rep 227
Posts |
Just pulled the car into the bay today. Not sure if I'm going to start ripping it apart tonight just because Im not feeling that great. Might wait til tomorrow.
But here's my oil filter. A couple specks of metal but ultimately doesn't look too bad... Does this look concerning? I'll probably post a new thread up so this one doesn't get overrun by my posts. Tomorrow is probably the day things start coming apart. |
Appreciate
3
|
03-20-2019, 06:20 PM | #239 |
Lieutenant Colonel
659
Rep 1,525
Posts |
My mechanic is changing out the rod bearings in my ride as I type. All in all the existing bearings I looked at look somewhat ok for 68 k miles, but I m glad I am changing them out. There is light wear and a couple of very slight scratches. Nothing that the scratch test grabs on to. The crank journals are pristine.
The first set of 5 bearings all had the same numbers on them. Maybe due to the same sizing? The first three new bearings installed had a clearance if .002. Right on target. I'll comment more tomorrow, and attach photos. All in all I am glad I did this. |
Appreciate
1
99937.50 |
03-21-2019, 04:51 AM | #240 | |
Private First Class
123
Rep 109
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-30-2019, 02:28 PM | #242 | |
Private First Class
123
Rep 109
Posts |
Quote:
That dark spot on that bearing is interesting - like it's worn through the outer layer right at the bottom of the stroke. What's even more interesting is that nearly every one of my bearings had that dark brown/green look to them over the entire surface. The more pictures that get posted like this, the more I'm very happy I changed mine when I did. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|