[E92_William]

Originally Posted by neilvan

^^ The stock N54 oil cooler starts opening between 100 and 110*C (230F?). In spring/summer/fall Ill manage to get there after 10-15 mins of normal driving even highway. Winter a bit longer but it'll still see it.

A worth while upgrade but the N52 oil/water cooler is a better in between if you're not doing too much hard driving

Good to know, at 230 it does seem to be more worthwhile doing on an N52. I'm in a back and forth between that oil to water cooler that came in the 530s and such and the oil to air from the N54. Faster oil warm up times sound good to me even if not much needed here in the south. Too bad I only have the parts needed for the N54 style cooler so would have to go parts hunting again for the other style if I decided to go with that. I drive it fast but don't redline the thing every shift or anything like that.

[neilvan]

Originally Posted by E92_William

Good to know, at 230 it does seem to be more worthwhile doing on an N52. I'm in a back and forth between that oil to water cooler that came in the 530s and such and the oil to air from the N54. Faster oil warm up times sound good to me even if not much needed here in the south. Too bad I only have the parts needed for the N54 style cooler so would have to go parts hunting again for the other style if I decided to go with that. I drive it fast but don't redline the thing every shift or anything like that.

Any N52 E60 should have the oil/water cooler (as did some E90s in europe). If you're auto then its a super easy install; If manual you need the waterpipe that mounts to the block(it has the extra feed).

The N54 one is of course way better for keeping temps down but the N52 is that easier middle ground; more of a regulator then a cooler per se.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Well, no, it won't, but it's still 10x better than wax in all but looks.



Not true. These spray-on coatings are still very good at what they do. Been using them fro 5+ years. Will never go back.



Yes, yes, yassssssss.

Good to know, I didn't even know that spray on ceramic coatings have been out for 5+ years. What's your favorite? I may have to give it a shot.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

Good to know, I didn't even know that spray on ceramic coatings have been out for 5+ years. What's your favorite? I may have to give it a shot.

I like Car Pro Reload, personally. They claim >5% SiO2.

You can't go wrong with that or Gyeon either, tho.

I've also found that if you do an actual coating then adding Reload on top really brings out the shine.

My routine is ceramic coat every 3ish years then Reload to top it up every 6 months. Super easy and this is for a car that sits outside 100%.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by tlow98

I like Car Pro Reload, personally. They claim >5% SiO2.

You can't go wrong with that or Gyeon either, tho.

I've also found that if you do an actual coating then adding Reload on top really brings out the shine.

My routine is ceramic coat every 3ish years then Reload to top it up every 6 months. Super easy and this is for a car that sits outside 100%.

Is your recommendation based on the use case of applying it to unprotected paint as well as using it on top of a ceramic coating?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

I could be wrong on how the system works but it looks like on our systems the rad and heater are on the same "side" of the stat, so the stat only cares about protecting the engine and will let you freeze to death if the engine cant get hot enough.

One of things I have heard about CSF radiators is that the coolant will run about 25 degrees cooler on average. It's basically made for track use.

[3PedalJake]

Had one small setback with my 3SI install on the 325i, leaving it here with some keywords. This pertains to the old style CCV system mounted under the manifold, you wouldn't have this issue with the plastic VC engines. When you're installing the manifold and lowering the drain hose into position to the oil pan tube be careful you have the hose and the heater wire routed correctly. I had my hose on the wrong side of the main power wire and also apparently didn't get it snapped securely onto the oil separator and at some point during the install unbeknownst to me and long after I had access to that area, probably while putting the cables back on their brackets it popped the hose off the bottom of the separator. This is the single most inaccessible spot on the entire car, I did manage to snake my arm up there and would have been able to slip the hose to the other side of the cable, but the wire was wrapped around it and there was no way to get that to the other side without unplugging it, almost impossible even with the manifold out. I had to do a partial uninstall of the manifold, enough to get in from the top and switch the wire, then back underneath to reach up again and pop the hose back on.

The symptoms of this if you ever experience them are an error code DME Air Mass System 2D06, accompanied by a startup idle that shoots up, then falls off to the point it almost stalls, then runs raggedy with fluctuating RPMs, possibly throwing an additional DME combustion misfire codes and the telltale sign, a gurgling sound like a backed up sink trying to drain coming from the oil separator area under the rear of the manifold.

Anyhoo, all back together and got it aligned, took it for a short test drive as I still have to put tags on it. Butt dyno says the 3SI and 330i tune is a success, it runs like a r4ped 4pe now

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by E92_William

Good to know, at 230 it does seem to be more worthwhile doing on an N52. I'm in a back and forth between that oil to water cooler that came in the 530s and such and the oil to air from the N54. Faster oil warm up times sound good to me even if not much needed here in the south. Too bad I only have the parts needed for the N54 style cooler so would have to go parts hunting again for the other style if I decided to go with that. I drive it fast but don't redline the thing every shift or anything like that.

I think for mostly dailying the water/oil cooler would be an ideal route. If you're tracking it or seeing the highway a lot in Arizona or something then air/oil would be your best bet for that

[nsjames]

well since we're all into detailing now.
I bought a foam cannon and fancy soap.
I'm impressed. I also like the little stubby wand. Can really get up into things at all the angles.

looks like all my maintenance washing just became mostly touchless.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

Is your recommendation based on the use case of applying it to unprotected paint as well as using it on top of a ceramic coating?

Have done both. With my car I use both coating and spray. With MIL's car I use just the spray.

The application of both is better, but just the top coats are very impressive and put wax to shame!

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by nsjames

well since we're all into detailing now.
I bought a foam cannon and fancy soap.
I'm impressed. I also like the little stubby wand. Can really get up into things at all the angles.

looks like all my maintenance washing just became mostly touchless.

Damn, I like this.

What power washer are you using?

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Damn, I like this.

What power washer are you using?

a 6.5hp gas unit. 2700 psi it claims.

[S65Hunter]

After a month of waiting.

View post on imgur.com

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by nsjames

a 6.5hp gas unit. 2700 psi it claims.

Out of my league and needs. Looking for a little electric unit. Sounds nice tho.

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by nsjames

well since we're all into detailing now.
I bought a foam cannon and fancy soap.
I'm impressed. I also like the little stubby wand. Can really get up into things at all the angles.

looks like all my maintenance washing just became mostly touchless.

So u will never wipe ur car? When dirty u just spray and tada?

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

So u will never wipe ur car? When dirty u just spray and tada?

that's all I did in the photos.

[K9Leader]

Installed a new e-brake handle grip - carbon fiber:

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Out of my league and needs. Looking for a little electric unit. Sounds nice tho.

I'd prefer an electric one honestly, but they just don't have enough ass.

I've had three, including a real nice karcher unit.
only so many watts you can get from a duplex outlet.

[mapleleaf1773]

I bleed my brakes today. I used the Motive power bleeder, super easy one man job. The power bleeder worked really well. I had to use Teflon tape on the brass fiting and my car brake resivor to keep a stable pressure but its done now.

And my petal is very solid. It feels great.

I also started taking my valve cover off as I have a consistent leak (mostly at the valvetronic motor) on the rear passenger side. Its the cover too not just the motor gasket.

I've changed the valvetronic gasket 4 times but it will not hold a good seal on my current valve cover. So I've gotta change the whole cover.

I have it halfway off, I'm at the crankcase ventilation hose. I hate that plastic fitting. I got frustrated so ill get back on it tomorrow. Hopefully it comes off easily tomorrow.

Any tips on that freaking hose anyone???

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by mapleleaf1773

I bleed my brakes today. I used the Motive power bleeder, super easy one man job. The power bleeder worked really well. I had to use Teflon tape on the brass fiting and my car brake resivor to keep a stable pressure but its done now.

And my petal is very solid. It feels great.

I also started taking my valve cover off as I have a consistent leak (mostly at the valvetronic motor) on the rear passenger side. Its the cover too not just the motor gasket.

I've changed the valvetronic gasket 4 times but it will not hold a good seal on my current valve cover. So I've gotta change the whole cover.

I have it halfway off, I'm at the crankcase ventilation hose. I hate that plastic fitting. I got frustrated so ill get back on it tomorrow. Hopefully it comes off easily tomorrow.

Any tips on that freaking hose anyone???

\

I just removed that hose today after installing it the other day and having to remove again to fix the lower drain hose (325i). Grab the hose and twist it clockwise a bit this gives you a tiny bit better angle at the clip. Shove a small angled pick down under the lock ring, put another straight pick under the clip on top and get a thin blade flatblade screwdriver to put in the crack as soon as you get it opened a tiny bit. Then with all 3 hands push the angled pick and twist it so it's pulling the lock tab away from the flange, and push the top pick under the tab to pull this one up. Twist the screwdriver you have in the crack to start levering them apart and keep tension on it as best as you can as you work the top and bottom picks. A little jiggling side to side and it will pop off. It's a total finesse move, you have to feel the end of the pick and picture where it is to get that tab lifted.

[mapleleaf1773]

Damn....ok

I'm gonna have to read that like 18 more time and grow extra hands by tomorrow

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by mapleleaf1773

Damn....ok

I'm gonna have to read that like 18 more time and grow extra hands by tomorrow

It is a biotch, it will take a bunch of tries but the tldr is you gotta get something under both of those tabs to lift them and wedge it apart with a screwdriver.