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      09-21-2021, 08:48 PM   #1
deltafivenine
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SOS Error and Bluetooth loss

Hi guys, been trying to read up on some common MOST diagnostics but having some trouble figuring out where I should be looking in my setup in particular for the issues I'm having.

For some background, I just purchased a 2011 E90 M3 Comp, HiFi stereo w/ combox this last weekend. On the drive home, I was intermittently losing bluetooth with it usually disconnecting my phone, and then ~30 seconds later it would reconnect to my phone. At one point I realized that I was consistently losing bluetooth whenever I hit a jarring bump on the interstate. Got it home with the bluetooth still working, but the next day onwards I've been unable to get bluetooth to work and I've had a persistent SOS error message. I have not lost radio or other iDrive noises, but I haven't checked the aux to see if it is functional or not.

If I understand correctly, because I have the HiFi system and the Combox I have a little less going on in the trunk with regards to the MOST system. I checked the MOST connector going into the Combox and it appears bright. I also checked the diagnostic connection under the driver's side dash, and while I was able to see light it was *very* dim. With this in mind, are there any recommendations on where to look next to try to determine where the problem/partial break is?

Thanks!
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      09-21-2021, 09:00 PM   #2
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Before you do any troubleshooting on these cars you must be sure
you have a fully charged and good battery and that the alternator
voltage is neither to low or to high.
Because if the are it can cause all kinds of Ghost problems.

Check battery voltage without the Engine Running and Check alternator voltage
with the engine running.
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      09-22-2021, 04:10 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Before you do any troubleshooting on these cars you must be sure
you have a fully charged and good battery and that the alternator
voltage is neither to low or to high.
Because if the are it can cause all kinds of Ghost problems.

Check battery voltage without the Engine Running and Check alternator voltage
with the engine running.
Just checked, had 12.25V at the battery with the car off and 14.29V at the battery with the car on. Would think 14.29 is good to go considering it was read at the battery, not the alt itself.

However, the bluetooth was actually working when I got into the car and the light out of the MOST diagnostics port was bright. When I was troubleshooting things I did not have the engine running, so might even be possible that the dim light out of the diagnostics port was due to lower voltage from not running the car?

At this point, not sure if it now working would be due to me fiddling with MOST connectors last night, an intermittent voltage issue, intermittent break etc. Will check alternator volts again if it ends up giving me issues next time I drive it.

Thanks for the help so far.
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      09-22-2021, 05:28 PM   #4
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Alternator voltage is in range Battery is marginally weak . I would put a full
slow charge on it just to be sure. The battery can be drained when working
on the car and when it gets to low the IBS kicks in and starts turning stuff off.
This can cause you to chase your own tail or for it to appear there are ghosts
in the system.
When something fails in the Most loop it's option will sometimes disappear
in the Radio or be be unselectable on the idrive.
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      09-26-2021, 11:44 AM   #5
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for the most connections you can check most concentrator under rear seat left side and behind the headunit, and combox itself
you can also perform a doublechek,
when bluetooth will die again, stop the car, remove cover in trunk and check if combox has power.
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      10-01-2021, 08:07 PM   #6
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So, I've yet to have any issues since disconnecting/reconnecting things last week, even having driven it over a half dozen times. Still unsure if it's truly fixed or just hiding out for a bit. Will check the things you guys mentioned if it fails again. Thanks for the help.
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      10-17-2021, 01:04 PM   #7
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So, last weekend I was headed to an autoX, put a tub of stuff for autoX in the trunk and suddenly I'm having bluetooth issues again. This made me start questioning if it was wiring/connector related and the weight of the tub made something move a bit and was why I was having issues. The issues persisted for a few days, and when I got the chance to take a look the front MOST diagnostics port was dim again. I had purchased a fiber loop after I initially started having problems, so I stuck it in there in place of the combox and the light was bright again. I fiddle with things a little, trying to make sure it's consistent, and it appeared to be... but then suddenly I start getting bright light with the combox connected again after 3-4 times of switching back and forth between the combox and the loop. After that, bluetooth has been flawless again.

At this point I thought it might be the Combox itself, so I went to fiddle a little again and get the P# etc so I could find a suitable replacement if I though it was, but I've discovered what I believe to be the issue. If I move the main connector wiring significantly, or sometimes barely touch it at all, the bluetooth immediately disconnects -> SOS error eventually. If I fiddle with the wiring again, go back to the front of the car I can connect bluetooth again all good. So it appears the problem is in the wiring or the main connector to the Combox.

Anyone have any experience with a similar issue? Is likely the only solution going to be to replace the whole harness for that section? How much work is that gonna end up being?
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      10-19-2021, 01:48 AM   #8
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I'm experiencing a similar issue now in my 2007 E90 with retrofitted CIC and combox. It seems to correlate with rain, and the following days I'll have Bluetooth audio streaming issues, but only as the car is pointing downhill. I can't confirm the SOS error though, because I have it disabled. When it disconnects, though, it says: "Attention No warning tones" on the iDrive, and goes back to normal when it reconnects.

I have been messing with the CIC connector trying to retrofit a CarPlay screen but another electrical issue was preventing that from being installed. I felt like the fiber optic was loose, and had too much play, so I put electrical tape over the top half of the connector, and it fit snug, with minimal play.

However, in the coming days it rained, and my issue began again. My car is parked pointed slightly downhill. Upon startup, I had Bluetooth audio issues. I gave up for 20 minutes, but since it was a 2 hour trip to where I was going, I tried Bluetooth again. It worked for most of the highway drive, but when I pointed downhill, it would cut out until it reconnected 5-10 seconds later. Seemed to somewhat persist if kept at that nose down angle, even as slight as it was.

As you mentioned with the tub, I too had a lot of stuff in my trunk. I was driving home from school to visit and fix a coolant leak (these are fun cars).

I tried testing this but it was very sporadic in how it was recreated. I could move the fiber optic cable that was connected to the amp, and it would do the same thing. Disconnect and then re-pair and resume playing music. I could also oddly recreate it SOMEtimes by putting pressure on the rear seat side bolster next to the door jam. This was really unreliable though, so I can't confirm it as any indication of anything. I thought about replacing the fiber optic cable, as it's only $33 on Amazon, but I have quite the list of parts to replace in the engine bay at the moment since I'm refreshing my entire coolant system.
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      11-21-2021, 01:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luper52 View Post
I'm experiencing a similar issue now in my 2007 E90 with retrofitted CIC and combox. It seems to correlate with rain, and the following days I'll have Bluetooth audio streaming issues, but only as the car is pointing downhill. I can't confirm the SOS error though, because I have it disabled. When it disconnects, though, it says: "Attention No warning tones" on the iDrive, and goes back to normal when it reconnects.

I have been messing with the CIC connector trying to retrofit a CarPlay screen but another electrical issue was preventing that from being installed. I felt like the fiber optic was loose, and had too much play, so I put electrical tape over the top half of the connector, and it fit snug, with minimal play.

However, in the coming days it rained, and my issue began again. My car is parked pointed slightly downhill. Upon startup, I had Bluetooth audio issues. I gave up for 20 minutes, but since it was a 2 hour trip to where I was going, I tried Bluetooth again. It worked for most of the highway drive, but when I pointed downhill, it would cut out until it reconnected 5-10 seconds later. Seemed to somewhat persist if kept at that nose down angle, even as slight as it was.

As you mentioned with the tub, I too had a lot of stuff in my trunk. I was driving home from school to visit and fix a coolant leak (these are fun cars).

I tried testing this but it was very sporadic in how it was recreated. I could move the fiber optic cable that was connected to the amp, and it would do the same thing. Disconnect and then re-pair and resume playing music. I could also oddly recreate it SOMEtimes by putting pressure on the rear seat side bolster next to the door jam. This was really unreliable though, so I can't confirm it as any indication of anything. I thought about replacing the fiber optic cable, as it's only $33 on Amazon, but I have quite the list of parts to replace in the engine bay at the moment since I'm refreshing my entire coolant system.
so you may remove that rear seat side bolster from the right side and recheck/reset most cables at MOST concentrator
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      11-21-2021, 01:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
so you may remove that rear seat side bolster from the right side and recheck/reset most cables at MOST concentrator
I don't know why I made it so complicated. I checked the fiber optic indicators on each connection, discovered that the combox had signal to it, but the terminal at the driver's footwell wasn't getting any signal.

My combox was from a fire damage and wrecked car and always had static-y phone call quality. Now that the problem has progressed to no sound at all, and no longer connects with my phone's Bluetooth, I'm fairly certain it must have just been on the way out.

No idea why the gyration would have contributed to the problem as there was no water in the trunk. Regardless I have another combox on the way and will see if that fixes the problem.
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      11-22-2021, 02:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luper52 View Post
I don't know why I made it so complicated. I checked the fiber optic indicators on each connection, discovered that the combox had signal to it, but the terminal at the driver's footwell wasn't getting any signal.

My combox was from a fire damage and wrecked car and always had static-y phone call quality. Now that the problem has progressed to no sound at all, and no longer connects with my phone's Bluetooth, I'm fairly certain it must have just been on the way out.

No idea why the gyration would have contributed to the problem as there was no water in the trunk. Regardless I have another combox on the way and will see if that fixes the problem.
did you checked MOST cables at MOST concentrator, about which i said above ?
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      11-22-2021, 02:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
did you checked MOST cables at MOST concentrator, about which i said above ?
No I did not because I figured that if the fiber optic signal is reaching the combox then the concentrator must be fine.

Plus, Bluetooth should be connecting if the combox is working, no? Audio would be the only issue if it was the fiber optic cables at fault.
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      11-22-2021, 03:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luper52 View Post
No I did not because I figured that if the fiber optic signal is reaching the combox then the concentrator must be fine.

Plus, Bluetooth should be connecting if the combox is working, no? Audio would be the only issue if it was the fiber optic cables at fault.
thats not correct
concentrator passes MOST wires both ways, because it is a RING
and so you can get signal from headunit to combox, but reverse signal can not reach headunit due weak contact in concentrator
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      11-22-2021, 03:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
thats not correct
concentrator passes MOST wires both ways, because it is a RING
and so you can get signal from headunit to combox, but reverse signal can not reach headunit due weak contact in concentrator
All connections behind the seat bolster are rock solid and connect very well. I have found this wiring for I guess another module? Although it's never been connected and has never been used even when the combox and Bluetooth audio worked smoothly.
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      11-22-2021, 05:03 PM   #15
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Car made up until 2010 in the US have pre wiring that means if you
should want to install something the like cd changer or sat module the
wiring is included in the car but the Fibers for that module is not hooked
up to the active Most Loop.

The fact that it is wrapped in Felt is a big hint it's not meant to be hooked
up without adding in the module.
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      11-23-2021, 02:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Car made up until 2010 in the US have pre wiring that means if you
should want to install something the like cd changer or sat module the
wiring is included in the car but the Fibers for that module is not hooked
up to the active Most Loop.

The fact that it is wrapped in Felt is a big hint it's not meant to be hooked
up without adding in the module.
Yep I figured it was prewiring.


Update though, today after making sure all of the connections were good around the driver's side rear passenger bolster, my bluetooth audio came back like normal for the first time in a couple weeks. I had to transport some new wheels and tires so I put back on the seat bolster, and dead. The bluetooth is non-existent just like yesterday. No amount of re-seating/adjusting the wires made any difference. How exactly can I test the MOST concentrator?
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      11-23-2021, 03:49 PM   #17
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shine a light in one end of the fiber and see it come out the other end.
Though the Fibers themselves almost never fail .
(unless they crushed or cut) there could be a loose connection at one end though.)
Each module should have one side emitting red light while unplugged
and powered up.Logic 7
Wiggle connections while it's working to find intermittent connections( or fiber at junction points )
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432
https://www.bavlogic.com/?p=3729
https://www.bavlogic.com/?tag=loop
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837
http://www.bmwgm5.com/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666


http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
Most
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727663
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222
https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+...VCkMqy2aCK09M:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19256760
https://www.teacremotes.com/bmwgm5/
Diagnostic Manuals Inpa/Ista D
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://carmod.ru/files/icom/istad_en.pdf
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do
primary links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...1&d=1590283589
https://www.nathansbmwworkshop.com/b...or-dean-videos

Before you do any work on these cars of any kind always be sure
you have a good battery with good battery voltage and good alternator voltage.

BMW standard tools and Ista/d or plus is always recommended.

If you have HI FI there is no Most connection to that amp it would have nothing to do
with your problem.
Try re seating the connectors at the Combox at least the ones on the major connectors.

Last edited by ctuna; 11-23-2021 at 04:05 PM..
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      11-24-2021, 03:37 PM   #18
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I'm not able to do all of the testing today because I'm traveling. However, I did test all of the module fiber optic connections. The signal is steadily blinking as it should be. The combox, satellite module, and L7 amp are all making solid connections. I don't get any red light at the driver's footwell however, and I assume that is the last point of the MOST.

I was able to fix the system twice by fiddling with these fiber optic lines (pictured), but they were not reliably fixed. Would work uninterrupted for the entirety of the drive but next time I used the car it was back to square one of no sound whatsoever upon startup.

Next step would be to try to shine a light through the amp fiber optic cable to see if it reaches the drivers footwell, right? ctuna? This does seem like a loose connection if I was able to fix it twice though. Maybe the fiber optic cable is just bad?
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      11-24-2021, 06:17 PM   #19
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I gave you my suggestions. I have never seen people have trouble with
a fiber cable here . Try jiggling the cable with the thing running.
Do the experiment or don't ask for more suggestions.

There have been cases where rodents ate cable though.
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      11-25-2021, 02:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
I gave you my suggestions. I have never seen people have trouble with
a fiber cable here . Try jiggling the cable with the thing running.
Do the experiment or don't ask for more suggestions.

There have been cases where rodents ate cable though.
Yeah I will but I've got wheels and tires stuffed in my car. Was only asking since you know your way around these things better than most. Wasn't sure if there was a common failure point in this specific section since a member suggested it. Thanks for your links, I'll update once I have time to open it up again
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      12-21-2021, 05:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deltafivenine View Post
So, last weekend I was headed to an autoX, put a tub of stuff for autoX in the trunk and suddenly I'm having bluetooth issues again. This made me start questioning if it was wiring/connector related and the weight of the tub made something move a bit and was why I was having issues. The issues persisted for a few days, and when I got the chance to take a look the front MOST diagnostics port was dim again. I had purchased a fiber loop after I initially started having problems, so I stuck it in there in place of the combox and the light was bright again. I fiddle with things a little, trying to make sure it's consistent, and it appeared to be... but then suddenly I start getting bright light with the combox connected again after 3-4 times of switching back and forth between the combox and the loop. After that, bluetooth has been flawless again.

At this point I thought it might be the Combox itself, so I went to fiddle a little again and get the P# etc so I could find a suitable replacement if I though it was, but I've discovered what I believe to be the issue. If I move the main connector wiring significantly, or sometimes barely touch it at all, the bluetooth immediately disconnects -> SOS error eventually. If I fiddle with the wiring again, go back to the front of the car I can connect bluetooth again all good. So it appears the problem is in the wiring or the main connector to the Combox.

Anyone have any experience with a similar issue? Is likely the only solution going to be to replace the whole harness for that section? How much work is that gonna end up being?


A note for anyone who stumbles upon this with a similar issue, while doing this I noted some of the nuts holding the Combox down were slightly loose which let the Combox wiggle just a tiny bit. After taking the Combox off to get Part# etc and tightening it down afterwards, I haven't had any issues even while on a trip with friends loading down the trunk heavily. Could be a coincidence, and the fact that such light wiggling of the wires are an issue is unsettling and will probably eventually need some kind of fix but it's good to go for the time being.
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