[mweisdorfer]

Should I get a high quality, after mkt turbos that are made to specifically operate between
425 - 475 hp? These turbos only have a one year warranty.

Or

Buy OEM Mitsubishi at FCP Euro and get a lifetime warranty.

Car is s DD with full bolt on's and MHD. I can run any level of MHD but not e85. E85 is the one map I don't have.

I don't ever plan on tracking it. I do drive in a spirited manner now & then.

Which one would you do?

[Bimmer_Engineer]

How long are you going to keep the car...doesn't your car already have over 150k on the clock?

I think if you buy something aftermarket from a reputable source (I've seen you reference RB turbos quite frequently) then that may be the way to go. In the range you're talking about you'll be running MHD 2+ so the upgraded internals should give you more longevity than the OE turbos. I know you do your own wrenching from reading your posts...even with a lifetime warranty replacing failed OE turbos in the near future would be a real pain.

I would vote for a stage 1 aftermarket from a reputable source...

[tisdrew]

The lifetime warranty isn't worth the hassle as the labor cost--out of pocket or of your time and sweat-- to replace is more than the cost of an oem set of turbos. Buy some stage one's with upgraded/improved WGs if that's what you want or move to PS2s as the most reliable hybrids avail and don't overboost past your goal.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Should I get a high quality, after mkt turbos that are made to specifically operate between
425 - 475 hp? These turbos only have a one year warranty.

Or

Buy OEM Mitsubishi at FCP Euro and get a lifetime warranty.

Car is s DD with full bolt on's and MHD. I can run any level of MHD but not e85. E85 is the one map I don't have.

I don't ever plan on tracking it. I do drive in a spirited manner now & then.

Which one would you do?

Update -

Just bought a quick jack from HD. Got it for $999.00 because I opened a new account. I just didn't want to be doing this deal on jack stands. Plus my wife has a car that has pinch welds, which is a real PITA to put on jack stands.

I am probably going to order RB 1's with the upgraded SS wastegates. Living in the rust belt of the country SS on such an important part is vital plus I hate the idea of fixing waste gate rattle.

I've went through every single connection with a fine tooth comb. I even bought new, green gaskets for the FMIC, boost solenoids, and new MAP sensors. No dice. Pretty much convinced it turbos. I'm going to do a smoke test on it tomorrow, but I really doubt I'll find anything to be honest.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

I’ll be keen to see how the install goes...

[buster84]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Should I get a high quality, after mkt turbos that are made to specifically operate between
425 - 475 hp? These turbos only have a one year warranty.

Or

Buy OEM Mitsubishi at FCP Euro and get a lifetime warranty.

Car is s DD with full bolt on's and MHD. I can run any level of MHD but not e85. E85 is the one map I don't have.

I don't ever plan on tracking it. I do drive in a spirited manner now & then.

Which one would you do?

The bigger questions are, do you have a second car? Can you afford a new engine if it blows? Can you afford not having a car to drive during a major repair that could take weeks?

If you answer yes to those questions then I suggest getting upgraded turbos, otherwise I'd stick to stock or save up some extra money and buy a cheap second car (if you dont have one already).

Also dont forget that with upgrade turbos you also need an upgraded fuel supply. You'll need PI, or the upgraded shotgun system, and at least a stage 2 fuel system (stage 3 if your doing full e85) and custom tune. I'd also suggest buying some good torque wrenches for your install (if you do it yourself) the last thing you want to do is break a bolt off into your engine block engine head that forces you to tow it to a shop.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by buster84

The bigger questions are, do you have a second car? Can you afford a new engine if it blows? Can you afford not having a car to drive during a major repair that could take weeks?

If you answer yes to those questions then I suggest getting upgraded turbos, otherwise I'd stick to stock or save up some extra money and buy a cheap second car (if you dont have one already).

Also dont forget that with upgrade turbos you also need an upgraded fuel supply. You'll need PI, or the upgraded shotgun system, and at least a stage 2 fuel system (stage 3 if your doing full e85) and custom tune. I'd also suggest buying some good torque wrenches for your install (if you do it yourself) the last thing you want to do is break a bolt off into your engine block engine head that forces you to tow it to a shop.

I have a second car.

The turbos might take a weekend at best. I'm guessing 2 days max.

I've almost done every major DIY on the n54 except the Rear Main Seal & Turbos. If I can do the oil pan gasket, I can do the turbos.

I've got a pretty extensive set of tools, and I've owned this car since 2009.

Yep, I've got a a few torque wrenches and a Bentley Repair Manual. In fact, my small 1/4 drive torque wrench is digital. I highly doubt (knock on wood) I will break off in the engine block. I have done 2 valve cover gaskets & one oil pan gasket. Not one broken off bolt. Not one. Even if I did, I'd use a spline set to take the broken bolt out.

As far as having to use an upgraded Low pressure fuel pump with upgraded turbos, that's false. You only need to use one if you are using stage 2 turbos, you are tracking & using e85 etc. plus being over 500hp.

I'm using MHD stage 1 - 2+. I really don't plan on ever going over 475 to be honest. Stage 2+ is rated at 420hp. The RB's might put me at 440-50, but that's really it.

[924er]

What about those $1500 franken turbos? My friend got them installed on his e60 n54 and that thing pulls hard

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by 924er

What about those $1500 franken turbos? My friend got them installed on his e60 n54 and that thing pulls hard

Franken turbos isn't a product I've really considered.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by 924er

What about those $1500 franken turbos? My friend got them installed on his e60 n54 and that thing pulls hard

I thought the n54 franken turbos has some major issues...

[Sgop335]

considering the RB turbos billet OEM for my 535i. Better internals and wastegate. I considered turbolab of america and got a pretty reasonable quote but not sure of them. Then there is VTT oem plus. And ofcourse new mitsubishis which are in my coupe and produce good whp. Logic is happy w the power level, if the RBs are more durable than the mitsus...meaning boost longer w/o the wastegate issues

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

considering the RB turbos billet OEM for my 535i. Better internals and wastegate. I considered turbolab of america and got a pretty reasonable quote but not sure of them. Then there is VTT oem plus. And ofcourse new mitsubishis which are in my coupe and produce good whp. Logic is happy w the power level, if the RBs are more durable than the mitsus...meaning boost longer w/o the wastegate issues

Yep, I follow your logic. I'm getting the upgraded wastegate no matter what.

[ProjectN54]

Another option, you could check out
Dynamic Autowerks Turbos

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1536242


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F232693958053

[Jklad]

I went with replacement mitsus from fcp, got them for $1100, haven't thrown them on yet though. Reason is, I don't need more than maybe a bit over 420hp to keep me happy, and it's easily done with oem turbos and inlets. I don't track. Rather, I used to put on 30k miles a year, and Was at a point where I wanted to minimize potential issues. the oem turbos can last very long, and are on thousands of cars - mine have 150k miles and hit boost targets pretty quickly given their age. Only thing is you may have to adjust the rear wastegate every so often if you can't tolerate the rattle, not a big deal in my book. After being on these forums for years, given what Ive seen I don't trust any aftermarket turbos options to give 100k miles. If mileage isn't an issue and I wanted to hit 500 plus, there's only a couple aftermarket options worth considering, knowing even those have had their share of issues (with the exception of bigger singles which seem to be fairly reliable)

[type-dRew]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

considering the RB turbos billet OEM for my 535i. Better internals and wastegate. I considered turbolab of america and got a pretty reasonable quote but not sure of them. Then there is VTT oem plus. And ofcourse new mitsubishis which are in my coupe and produce good whp. Logic is happy w the power level, if the RBs are more durable than the mitsus...meaning boost longer w/o the wastegate issues

When it comes time to do mine, Turbo Lab America is getting the business. They do great work and their wastegate modifications are stout.

[NoGuru]

Let me know when you do the install? Since you are close to where I live,I may come give you a hand and doing so, it will help me learn for when mine are due to be done.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Let me know when you do the install? Since you are close to where I live,I may come give you a hand and doing so, it will help me learn for when mine are due to be done.

A great video is the one ECS tuning put out. I like that they didn't remove the steering rack. When you remove the lines with the special bolts, there's two washers on each bolt that MUST be replaced plus the fluid as well. I recently replaced my lines and fluid. They were weeping.

It can be done on jack stands, assuming you can get them up to say 16" or so. I'm buying a quick jack. Got it at HD for $999. This gets me to 21" off the ground, and I think/ know/ feel it's probably safer too. Don't get me wrong. I've done a lot of DIY's on 4 jack stands, but the quick jack has come down a lot in price in recent years. So, I'm taking the plunge. Besides, I don't think you can do a rear main seal DIY on jack stands. You don't have the clearance to get the tranny out from underneath the car most likely.

My rear main was done at 90,000 miles. I'm at 164,000. So, I'm betting when I hit 180,000 miles history will repeat itself 😌. The last time I paid $1200.00 to have it done. Not this time!!!

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by type-dRew

When it comes time to do mine, Turbo Lab America is getting the business. They do great work and their wastegate modifications are stout.

yea I was considering them too, they have a F from BBB.

[type-dRew]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

yea I was considering them too, they have a F from BBB.

Not sure what thats from, but i've used them before on previous projects with great success.

A set of cores sent to them for rebuild is $650 including return shipping and modified/corrected wastegates. Cant beat it.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by type-dRew

Not sure what thats from, but i've used them before on previous projects with great success.

A set of cores sent to them for rebuild is $650 including return shipping and modified/corrected wastegates. Cant beat it.

Yes I know, have their quote. May still consider them, not sure if they use MHI (Mitsubishi) internals or cheap Chinese for rebuild. Below is part of their quote:

"BMW N54 Turbo Rebuild + Wastegate Repair $650 for Both Turbos,
Includes Return shipping +$300 Core Charge = $950 to buy or Exchange, Horsepower Rating: 500HP

BMW N54 Turbo Upgrade + Rebuild + Wastegate Repair $1050 for Both Turbos,
Includes Return shipping +$300 Core Charge = $1350 to buy or Exchange
Horsepower Rating: 600HP"

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Yes I know, have their quote. May still consider them, not sure if they use MHI (Mitsubishi) internals or cheap Chinese for rebuild. Below is part of their quote:

"BMW N54 Turbo Rebuild + Wastegate Repair $650 for Both Turbos,
Includes Return shipping +$300 Core Charge = $950 to buy or Exchange, Horsepower Rating: 500HP

BMW N54 Turbo Upgrade + Rebuild + Wastegate Repair $1050 for Both Turbos,
Includes Return shipping +$300 Core Charge = $1350 to buy or Exchange
Horsepower Rating: 600HP"

I've been using their stage 1 or upgraded turbos(with bigger wheels, etc..) for 40k+ with no issues.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

I've been using their stage 1 or upgraded turbos(with bigger wheels, etc..) for 40k+ with no issues.

Good to know, a datapoint. If you said 140k