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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > M-Style Temperature Based Variable Redline Retrofit in Stock Cluster



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      11-29-2019, 02:33 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
I asked a guy with an E60 525i, not sure of his year but he doesn't have it
It also depends if he has HIGH KOMBI (with cruise control) or not.
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      11-29-2019, 08:47 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotter View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
I asked a guy with an E60 525i, not sure of his year but he doesn't have it
It also depends if he has HIGH KOMBI (with cruise control) or not.
Regardless it isn't every E60 unfortunately
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      11-30-2019, 09:34 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Regardless it isn't every E60 unfortunately
Yes, but it does not mean that all E60 525i does not have it either.
I would bet that every E60 have it which has cruise control (which includes HIGH KOMBI). Correct my if I am wrong.

But I would be more interested to know if the E60 cluster face and all face layers are exactly the same as in E90 (diameter, shape, size...)?
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      12-02-2019, 06:47 AM   #48
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Do you have to sacrifice cruise control if you have it already or does this mod work along side it?
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      12-02-2019, 09:48 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wareham View Post
Do you have to sacrifice cruise control if you have it already or does this mod work along side it?
Alongside it lol did you read the thread? It goes behind the tachometer
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      12-02-2019, 12:06 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wareham View Post
Do you have to sacrifice cruise control if you have it already or does this mod work along side it?
This is for the tachometer/RPM gauge, not the speedometer.
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      12-02-2019, 03:28 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colorado.e9x View Post
Alongside it lol did you read the thread? It goes behind the tachometer
Admittedly skimmed through the first time and thought you was having to take part of your cruise control gearing over to the Rev gauge.

Understand it clearer now
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      01-11-2020, 06:32 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ixSpd View Post
That is exactly what I did...
What values in "Perfect toolbox" did you use?

I tried these:
enter the following in the RPM boxes: 5600, 6000, 6200, 6500, 7000
enter the following in the Steps boxes: 5500, 4200, 3354, 0, 0
set the Warm State to: 7000

But motor seems to need to know stop position which is inverted because we use opposite (cruise control) plastic parts. So I think I need different settings, motors seems to be running randomly I guess because he does not find correct stop position?

Also dials from E60 does not fix exactly so that does not workout. Although I can loot motors from there and take the sticker which is on moving RPM. I paid small price.
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      01-15-2020, 12:20 AM   #53
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I am using these settings:

And on cold engine RPM moves only to ~5800:

I want it to move to 4000 like in settings. Any one have correct settings?
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      01-15-2020, 01:11 PM   #54
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While doing "test-drive" with PerfectToolbox all seems to be well:
https://vimeo.com/385008899
But when I put speedometer inside the car and on cold start it does not go to 4000 RPM it goes to ~5800 only. Any one knows why?
Does outside temperature impacts redline also? if it would be -30 celcius maybe it would go to 4000?
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      01-16-2020, 03:02 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotter View Post
While doing "test-drive" with PerfectToolbox all seems to be well:
https://vimeo.com/385008899
But when I put speedometer inside the car and on cold start it does not go to 4000 RPM it goes to ~5800 only. Any one knows why?
Does outside temperature impacts redline also? if it would be -30 celcius maybe it would go to 4000?
The temperature it thinks your engine is at has everything to do with where that needle is. If it's a colder day, expect it to be closer to the 4k; warmer, closer to 6k. Had you set your initial "cold" value as 3k, it'd be closer to what you're expecting...BUT...keep in mind that you only have so much of that dial that hides behind the face. So if the dial goes anything lower than 3500RPM, you're gonna start seeing the end of your warmup dial and the base color of your dial (black in your case) show up by the redline.

Anyway, as your car warms up, the dial will rotate til its at its final position with no warning zone. That's exactly what its supposed to do.
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      01-17-2020, 03:36 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
The temperature it thinks your engine is at has everything to do with where that needle is. If it's a colder day, expect it to be closer to the 4k; warmer, closer to 6k. Had you set your initial "cold" value as 3k, it'd be closer to what you're expecting...BUT...keep in mind that you only have so much of that dial that hides behind the face. So if the dial goes anything lower than 3500RPM, you're gonna start seeing the end of your warmup dial and the base color of your dial (black in your case) show up by the redline.

Anyway, as your car warms up, the dial will rotate til its at its final position with no warning zone. That's exactly what its supposed to do.
So I need to know at exactly what temperature it is 4k RPM. It should have start and end temperatures for that range of RPM, I wonder at what value it starts.
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      01-19-2020, 01:06 AM   #57
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It seems to be at 4k RPM with these values:
RPM boxes: 5800, 6000, 6200, 6500, 7000
Steps boxes: 5500, 4200, 3354, 0, 0
Warm State: 7000
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      01-19-2020, 09:32 AM   #58
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So now it starts at 4k RPM, but it moves fast to 7K. It seems that it moves to 7k RPM when oil temperature is ~60C.

Does it mean I can floor it when engine is ~60C?

Does anyone know at what temperature M3 redline goes to 7k?
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      01-19-2020, 04:12 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotter View Post
So now it starts at 4k RPM, but it moves fast to 7K. It seems that it moves to 7k RPM when oil temperature is ~60C.

Does it mean I can floor it when engine is ~60C?

Does anyone know at what temperature M3 redline goes to 7k?
There's a reason your car didn't come with a variable gauge: it isn't necessary. Operating temperature is generally around 100C. But if you went fast before that, it won't make the engine implode. Your stroke and displacement, compression are moderate and you don't have forced induction - if you don't redline it as soon as you jump in you're gonna be fine. If it's cold, stay under 5k in first through 3rd, and you'll be overly protective of the engine. Other than that, especially if you have an auto, the car is gonna protect itself.
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      01-25-2020, 11:22 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotter View Post
So now it starts at 4k RPM, but it moves fast to 7K. It seems that it moves to 7k RPM when oil temperature is ~60C.

Does it mean I can floor it when engine is ~60C?

Does anyone know at what temperature M3 redline goes to 7k?
It's based on coolant temp
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      03-09-2020, 07:14 PM   #61
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I had a donor M3 cluster and a stock 335i cluster out of my 2012 e92. i just did this swap last night. if anyone is interested buying it just let me know. the cluster has 51700 miles on it right now so if your car has more it will work perfect. i can code in your VIN also.
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      03-06-2022, 04:16 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotter View Post
What values in "Perfect toolbox" did you use?

I tried these:
enter the following in the RPM boxes: 5600, 6000, 6200, 6500, 7000
enter the following in the Steps boxes: 5500, 4200, 3354, 0, 0
set the Warm State to: 7000

But motor seems to need to know stop position which is inverted because we use opposite (cruise control) plastic parts. So I think I need different settings, motors seems to be running randomly I guess because he does not find correct stop position?

Also dials from E60 does not fix exactly so that does not workout. Although I can loot motors from there and take the sticker which is on moving RPM. I paid small price.

How were you able to get past the motor running randomly?

I’m having a similar issue right now as well - I followed the steps to retrofit a motor from a donor 325i cluster cruise portion into my tachometer slot and used Perfekt Toolbox, however my variable rpm just spins counter clockwise both at startup and also curiously at shut down, eventually hitting the limiter and then changing direction after repeated ignition cycles.

I thought having it “zeroed” at start would have been sufficient (warn zone spun all the way clockwise and hidden prior to start) however the display never spins clockwise until it hits the limiter all the way around the cluster.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!
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      11-19-2022, 08:48 AM   #63
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Anyone can help with my e91 Diesel? I cant get right values, also after i flash my 0 point is Off.
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      11-20-2022, 05:40 PM   #64
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https://youtube.com/shorts/xm8EDaHtmUc?feature=share.
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      10-26-2023, 12:46 PM   #65
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https://youtube.com/shorts/3MGWOvdt31g
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      10-31-2023, 01:34 PM   #66
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I'm considering doing this mod. I run JB4 on the N55 platform, and the JB4 will run stock until ~160F/70C oil temp. Would it be possible to have the warning zone start at ~4500rpm until the oil hits 70, and then go back up to redline?
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