[VickyK]

Originally Posted by nexus1968

Ok solved….after and during a mystic pray it’s all done and working logic 7 + cd changer, i think the mistake was that when i recode to stock the cic it don’t recode the correct cic.c1a for my car, but cic.c09…..and now uaaaauuu good logic 7 and cd changer; i’m a little scared if disconnecting/changing the battery, all of this settings disappear…..what do you think..?
regards VickyK and all of this forum for the patience.

Its fine to disconnect the battery. It will not make the settings disappear. Its hardcoded into the module.

Glad you got it sorted and all working

[nexus1968]

….good to ear it, grazie VickyK.

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by nexus1968

Ok solved….after and during a mystic pray it’s all done and working logic 7 + cd changer, i think the mistake was that when i recode to stock the cic it don’t recode the correct cic.c1a for my car, but cic.c09…..and now uaaaauuu good logic 7 and cd changer; i’m a little scared if disconnecting/changing the battery, all of this settings disappear…..what do you think..?
regards VickyK and all of this forum for the patience.

Coding settings will remain even if you remove the battery. The only way you'd need to re-code is if you replace one of the modules you coded.

[nexus1968]

Ok thanks, exist a way to backup all settings coded….for future.?

[nexus1968]

Is it normal that single cd in radio professional display artist and title song, but cd changer nothing only track 1….track2 etc…..?
Mine is mulf not combox.!

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by nexus1968

Is it normal that single cd in radio professional display artist and title song, but cd changer nothing only track 1….track2 etc…..?
Mine is mulf not combox.!

I'm not sure about this. Few guys in forum indicate the cd changer won't display track name.
Anyways I wouldn't imagine at this era people will still be wanting to use cd. Why did you want one? I'd imagine if you are thinking about audio quality you can use a MULF with USB. Rip the audio Track to WMA lossless as the CIC supports it. Few extra work for wiring usb, but at least you don't need physical CDs

[nexus1968]

Yes for quality, for bigger space and lower quality i’ve changed the stoch toshiba hard drive with an adapter for msata 128gb samsung sm841 that runs perfectly with some adjustment for partitioning.

[KalEl552]

Hi guys! Thank you all for the time and dedication it took. I got all the speakers, harness and an amplifier from a 2011 car (it had CIC with a large display). My car, a 2006, has HiFi from the factory, and M-ASK with a small screen and navigation, as well as a cd changer. Can my setup be coded to accept the Top HiFi, or i need to replace the HU as well?

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by KalEl552

Hi guys! Thank you all for the time and dedication it took. I got all the speakers, harness and an amplifier from a 2011 car (it had CIC with a large display). My car, a 2006, has HiFi from the factory, and M-ASK with a small screen and navigation, as well as a cd changer. Can my setup be coded to accept the Top HiFi, or i need to replace the HU as well?

Coding the HU is not a problem. The potential issue would be the firmware on your HU is too old and can't talk to the new L7 amp.

You can try, buy if it doesn't work you need to find someone to flash your CCC module with latest firmware with ICOm.

I'd more inclined to get the CIC headunit, screen and knob from the same guy, try to get a good deal and retrofit everything, CCC to CIC + L7. That would be a big step up for your case, but then again, a litte more work to get that working.

[KalEl552]

Originally Posted by VickyK

Coding the HU is not a problem. The potential issue would be the firmware on your HU is too old and can't talk to the new L7 amp.

You can try, buy if it doesn't work you need to find someone to flash your CCC module with latest firmware with ICOm.

I'd more inclined to get the CIC headunit, screen and knob from the same guy, try to get a good deal and retrofit everything, CCC to CIC + L7. That would be a big step up for your case, but then again, a litte more work to get that working.

Thank you for your answer. Wanted to buy those from him as well, but he sold them previously, he only had a combox left. And i bought an Android few months back - changing my small screen for a big one and getting Android Auto/Carplay and it is working nice. And in the end, he didn't even have the amplifier, so i sourced an amplifier from an another guy, and it was manufactured in 2007, everything is supposed to arrive this week so i will try to set everything up as it arrives.

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by KalEl552

Thank you for your answer. Wanted to buy those from him as well, but he sold them previously, he only had a combox left. And i bought an Android few months back - changing my small screen for a big one and getting Android Auto/Carplay and it is working nice. And in the end, he didn't even have the amplifier, so i sourced an amplifier from an another guy, and it was manufactured in 2007, everything is supposed to arrive this week so i will try to set everything up as it arrives.

Warning: Don't assume your android HU will work in par with L7 amp. Check your manual if it supports MOST fiber out. As I can see, only Mr12V models supports it.

[KalEl552]

Originally Posted by VickyK

Warning: Don't assume your android HU will work in par with L7 amp. Check your manual if it supports MOST fiber out. As I can see, only Mr12V models supports it.

Sorry for not giving more info, the Android is just the display - it piggybacks off of my HU. Still has all the functionality from both the CCC and the new android.

[KalEl552]

Okay, a few updates:
The first step was to replace all the speakers with HK ones, and i did that - also added the ones in the rear doors, since i didn't have any. After i pulled out a part of my harness - the right side of the car, all the connections matched, except the one for the passenger door - the donor had 3 more wires in the white connector before the door. After pulling out more of my harness, i tried plugging in the donor harness and nothing media-wise worked, not the display, the idrive button didn't light up... After that, i plugged in my old harness and nothing worked, all the fuses are ok. Kinda stumped

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by KalEl552

Okay, a few updates:
The first step was to replace all the speakers with HK ones, and i did that - also added the ones in the rear doors, since i didn't have any. After i pulled out a part of my harness - the right side of the car, all the connections matched, except the one for the passenger door - the donor had 3 more wires in the white connector before the door. After pulling out more of my harness, i tried plugging in the donor harness and nothing media-wise worked, not the display, the idrive button didn't light up... After that, i plugged in my old harness and nothing worked, all the fuses are ok. Kinda stumped

Ok lets try to figure this out. First of all did you disconnect battery before pulling out harnesses? The I Drive button not lighting up is an indication there is something has short circuit / CANBUS issue. When you say door harness - White.. what are you referring to? Front door/ back door? Do you have some pictures of what was done?

Are you able to pull error info from INPA ?

[KalEl552]

Okay, i got the car working and put everything back together.
It's kinda a half of a job, will describe everything:

1. The issue with the previous post not working, i accidentally pulled one of the power connectors for the audio harness under the dead pedal (they are hard to see because of the carpet) pulling it back together, everything worked like a charm.
2. Since the car i got the harness from is from 2011 and mine is from 2006, the harness isn't identical. Differences:
Combox connector is not the same. (X14133, X17397)

That connector is from my car, and on the next image is the 2011 one

New harness didn't have iDrive connector at all, and all the center rest connectors were different.
2006 harness has Connector X1716 for powering the harness, while 2011 has a completely different connector, couldn't find it - it has different pins as well, and the 2011 harness has an extra connector besides those 2 on the driver side, which my car doesn't.

In the end, i fitted all the HK speakers, tweeters and woofer - added the rear door speakers, tapped into the existing L/R channels going to the front doors. Had a spare set of front door cards, cut out their bracket for the speaker and made some changes so it could fit my rear door.
Might try to find a junkyard pre-lci tophifi harness.

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by KalEl552

Okay, i got the car working and put everything back together.
It's kinda a half of a job, will describe everything:

1. The issue with the previous post not working, i accidentally pulled one of the power connectors for the audio harness under the dead pedal (they are hard to see because of the carpet) pulling it back together, everything worked like a charm.
2. Since the car i got the harness from is from 2011 and mine is from 2006, the harness isn't identical. Differences:
Combox connector is not the same. (X14133, X17397)

That connector is from my car, and on the next image is the 2011 one

New harness didn't have iDrive connector at all, and all the center rest connectors were different.
2006 harness has Connector X1716 for powering the harness, while 2011 has a completely different connector, couldn't find it - it has different pins as well, and the 2011 harness has an extra connector besides those 2 on the driver side, which my car doesn't.

In the end, i fitted all the HK speakers, tweeters and woofer - added the rear door speakers, tapped into the existing L/R channels going to the front doors. Had a spare set of front door cards, cut out their bracket for the speaker and made some changes so it could fit my rear door.
Might try to find a junkyard pre-lci tophifi harness.

Ok foremost - why are you connecting the harness for IDrive and Combox? Im confused. The Logic7 amp doesnt need all that. E90 Pre-LCI is using MULF and LCI is using COMBOX, so definately the cables will be different.

All you need is the amp and wiring from the amp. Installing the speakers are not the first thing to be doing. Luckily your existing speakers are HIFI, they have 2 Ohm impedance like L7 speakers. If yours were base system they have 4 ohm impedance and might fry your headunit because its powered from there.

[KalEl552]

If i'm getting this right: i don't need the entire harness from the 2011 car, just the amplifier connector and MOST cable for it? And trace the wires from the new harness and swap them accordingly into mine? Because the HiFi AMP connector is a bit different, and has less channels?

Edit: I'm a total doofus. Separated the amp and MOST cable from the donor car. Will splice them into my car, changing the amp plug with the donor plug. After that, will add a new connection to the MOST block, for the amp. And coding wise - i loaded MASK module in NCS, and read its data - it has TOP_HIFI option, either active and non active, AUDIO_SYSTEM_MASK - that one has ticked hifi for e90 and e60. Should i set TOP_HIFI to active, and hifi to top hifi for e90 and e60 for AUDIO_SYSTEM_MASK? Do i need to add VO option 677 instead of 676?

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by KalEl552

If i'm getting this right: i don't need the entire harness from the 2011 car, just the amplifier connector and MOST cable for it? And trace the wires from the new harness and swap them accordingly into mine? Because the HiFi AMP connector is a bit different, and has less channels?

Edit: I'm a total doofus. Separated the amp and MOST cable from the donor car. Will splice them into my car, changing the amp plug with the donor plug. After that, will add a new connection to the MOST block, for the amp. And coding wise - i loaded MASK module in NCS, and read its data - it has TOP_HIFI option, either active and non active, AUDIO_SYSTEM_MASK - that one has ticked hifi for e90 and e60. Should i set TOP_HIFI to active, and hifi to top hifi for e90 and e60 for AUDIO_SYSTEM_MASK? Do i need to add VO option 677 instead of 676?

Correct. Now you're getting it right. All you need is what's going in and out only from the L7 amp. Yes hifi connector is different and have lesser output channels.

Yes coding set to Top_HIFI and use VO 677.

[KalEl552]

Got everything working. So, a little write-up for the guys that are upgrading from HiFi to Top-Hifi:
The differences:
The amp connector - easiest way is to cut the existing connector, and replace it with the Top Hifi connector - the pins are not the same, so it has to be cut. The wiring is a bit different - the HiFi doesn't have rear door and center channels, so it will have some extra wires, and there are some wires that will be left "hanging", you won't be connecting them to anything. The wires in the picture below won't be connected to the new connector.

You will need to route some extra wires, 4 in total for the rear door speakers, and 2 for the center channel. After that, you'll need a new connection in the MOST block - i just moved the far left pin on the lower part of the MOST to the left, and added the AMP optic cable to it's right and in front of it.

After that, you need to code the car. I coded MASK module parameters TOP_HIFI to active and AUDIO_SYSTEM_MASK to e60 top_hifi and e90 top_hifi - the display will reboot, but i didn't have audio right away, after switching off ignition for some time it came to life. Everything else was working as well, the CD changer, the AUX.

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by KalEl552

Got everything working. So, a little write-up for the guys that are upgrading from HiFi to Top-Hifi:
The differences:
The amp connector - easiest way is to cut the existing connector, and replace it with the Top Hifi connector - the pins are not the same, so it has to be cut. The wiring is a bit different - the HiFi doesn't have rear door and center channels, so it will have some extra wires, and there are some wires that will be left "hanging", you won't be connecting them to anything. The wires in the picture below won't be connected to the new connector.
Attachment 3252131
You will need to route some extra wires, 4 in total for the rear door speakers, and 2 for the center channel. After that, you'll need a new connection in the MOST block - i just moved the far left pin on the lower part of the MOST to the left, and added the AMP optic cable to it's right and in front of it.
Attachment 3252141
After that, you need to code the car. I coded MASK module parameters TOP_HIFI to active and AUDIO_SYSTEM_MASK to e60 top_hifi and e90 top_hifi - the display will reboot, but i didn't have audio right away, after switching off ignition for some time it came to life. Everything else was working as well, the CD changer, the AUX.

The unused cables from Hifi system are the balanced audio signal from the CIC

[samaritin]

Originally Posted by Cheshire535d

Hi all,

Just wanted to say thanks for all the info in this thread.

I've just retrofitted logic 7 to my E61 using the info on here and it's all gone smoothly and works great!

Coding was easy just changed from standard to top hifi and then had working audio and eq settings

Ta ��

Hi cheshire,

im also looking to do retrofit on my e61, how did you put speaker on the rear door ? i don't have the "hole", maybe i can drill a hole and buy a specific bracket?

Thanks

[whyzee125]

@VickyK I'm so excited to get started on this--thank you for the help you provided me already via PM a while back.

I have a used L7 amp bracket and pigtail, new BavSound speakers, and the MOSt wiring.

My plan was to repin the existing speaker connections to the L7 pigtail and run new wiring to the additional speakers but a full L7 harness just popped up for sale. Should I just buy that? What's easier or better in your opinion?