[jyjimenez3]

Hey guys, my girl has a 2013 n55 335i. Her car would shake while driving and stopping because her rims were shot. She just put a new set on. The car no longer shakes when driving, but it still shakes when braking. Any suggestions on the cause? I am thinking maybe her rotors are warped, but recently, after changing from her winter set to a different set, she would occasionally experience the steering wheel randomly shaking uncontrollably. The car would also lean to one side, almost as if you would experience when you have a flat. It happens at the most random times and would go away after a minute or if she pressed on the breaks it would stop as well. I am not sure if this and the car shaking when braking is from the same cause or are unrelated. She also loves hitting potholes but just had an alignment recently. Thanks in advance!

[fastboatster]

Wild guess, but Bentley manual says e90s tend to shake when front control arms are shot.

[Silnismo]

Swap out the rotors and pads and you will be fine.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

...2013 n55 335i. Her car would shake while driving and stopping because her rims were shot. She just put a new set on. The car no longer shakes when driving, but it still shakes when braking. Any suggestions on the cause?

IDEA:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...wheels/4E2zA7N

You need to learn how to REMOVE & INSTALL her wheels -- she'll thank you for it.

NOTE the "Special Tool 81 25 2 344 011" (the "BLUE Thingy") used to clean the hub "centering" shoulder. Actually ANY wire brush will do if you understand what you are doing. The idea is remove "crud" (German technical term ;-) from the Disc Shoulder where the wheel mounts which will prevent the wheel from "centering" or fitting on the "hub-centric" disc properly. You also need to clean the center of each wheel so that the wheel fits properly (does NOT cock or install "off-square."

Odds are one or more of the wheels is difficult to remove, or else is sloppy to the point of wobbling when installed. Also, check "Brake Disc Retaining Bolt" to make sure it is snug. If you have a Magnetic Base Dial Indicator, measure "Runout" or movement inboard/outboard of the disc in the wear area as you turn the wheel. There may be "crud" between the inboard face of the disc and the hub which causes the Runout (which should NOT be more than ~ .002".

In short, it is more likely that the issues you describe are NOT due to faulty components, but rather DIRTY components or Faulty Assembly by someone who did NOT understand the concepts covered above. Most shop people (at least if owner NOT watching) installing wheels just use an impact wrench: BRRTT - BRRTT - BRRTT - BRRTT - BRRTT -- NEXT !!!

NOT much attention to "Incremental - Star-pattern Tightening" with a Torque Wrench as described in TIS Procedure above.

As for "Leaning", you'd better check the Lugs on the side to which leaning ASAP, and if NOT loose, then check suspension, particularly Front, ASAP.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[jyjimenez3]

Oh I forgot to post that on wide turns the car makes a clicking noise as well. Sometimes she would hear it while driving straight but that has not occurred recently.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by fastboatster

Wild guess, but Bentley manual says e90s tend to shake when front control arms are shot.

That also came up as an option for the shaking aspect considering she hears a clicking noise when making wide turns. Will look into it. Thanks for the input!

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

IDEA:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...wheels/4E2zA7N

You need to learn how to REMOVE & INSTALL her wheels -- she'll thank you for it.

NOTE the "Special Tool 81 25 2 344 011" (the "BLUE Thingy") used to clean the hub "centering" shoulder. Actually ANY wire brush will do if you understand what you are doing. The idea is remove "crud" (German technical term ;-) from the Disc Shoulder where the wheel mounts which will prevent the wheel from "centering" or fitting on the "hub-centric" disc properly. You also need to clean the center of each wheel so that the wheel fits properly (does NOT cock or install "off-square."

Odds are one or more of the wheels is difficult to remove, or else is sloppy to the point of wobbling when installed. Also, check "Brake Disc Retaining Bolt" to make sure it is snug. If you have a Magnetic Base Dial Indicator, measure "Runout" or movement inboard/outboard of the disc in the wear area as you turn the wheel. There may be "crud" between the inboard face of the disc and the hub which causes the Runout (which should NOT be more than ~ .002".

In short, it is more likely that the issues you describe are NOT due to faulty components, but rather DIRTY components or Faulty Assembly by someone who did NOT understand the concepts covered above. Most shop people (at least if owner NOT watching) installing wheels just use an impact wrench: BRRTT - BRRTT - BRRTT - BRRTT - BRRTT -- NEXT !!!

NOT much attention to "Incremental - Star-pattern Tightening" with a Torque Wrench as described in TIS Procedure above.

As for "Leaning", you'd better check the Lugs on the side to which leaning ASAP, and if NOT loose, then check suspension, particularly Front, ASAP.

Please let us know what you find,
George

I am the one who installed them and dont have any difficulty removing them. I use the star pattern and thread the lug nuts manually, then torch them. Like I said, it only leans during those few occasion, not all the time. And i double checked all the lug nuts, making sure they are all tight and seated properly. thanks tho.

[Trillricky]

It can be the spark plugs, did you check for that? Can be caused bc of misfiring.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by Trillricky

It can be the spark plugs, did you check for that? Can be caused bc of misfiring.

No misfires though.

[NinetyEight740]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

No misfires though.

Ok so it’s been a month, what have you tried? Did you replace brake rotors? Check the motor mounts to see if they are collapsed?

[jyjimenez3]

Also there’s a rip in the “rubber piece” on the inside of the wheel. Looks like an accordion. Going to look more into this piece and the name.

[Fritzer]

What kind of wheels? Are they aftermarket? May be wrong hub size and need hub rings. Make sure they are balanced properly at a shop with modern balancers.

Besides that, either she needs new pads/rotors if it is shaking during braking only. I am 100% on that. Like another poster mentioned, check the control arms and all the bushings, another likely cause for general vibration.

[nhhiep]

Is it possible that the wheel bearings are shot because of using damaged wheels too long?

[jyjimenez3]

Well, heard some new clanking noises yesterday when turning the wheel so i looked and saw this rip. Seemed like a rock fell out of their too. She's going to take it to the mechanic and see what they say but does anyone know the name of this and is it dangerous to drive the car like this?

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by nhhiep

Is it possible that the wheel bearings are shot because of using damaged wheels too long?

Don't think it is the wheel bearings, my dad needed his replaced and his symptoms and hers are not the same.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

What kind of wheels? Are they aftermarket? May be wrong hub size and need hub rings. Make sure they are balanced properly at a shop with modern balancers.

Besides that, either she needs new pads/rotors if it is shaking during braking only. I am 100% on that. Like another poster mentioned, check the control arms and all the bushings, another likely cause for general vibration.

Aftermarket, but they said they fit bmw. How can you tell if its the wrong hub size?
My friend did it so im hoping
Def going to change the rotors soon, just nervous about how serious this clanking noise is.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

Well, heard some new clanking noises yesterday when turning the wheel so i looked and saw this rip. Seemed like a rock fell out of their too. She's going to take it to the mechanic and see what they say but does anyone know the name of this and is it dangerous to drive the car like this?

Well, that 335i is a 335xi or xDrive, and THAT is the Drive Axle with a torn CV joint gaiter. YES that is an important part, as someone has DAMAGED the joint. Did someone remove the hub on that side for some reason? If so, you/she should NEVER let that person touch her car again. Read TIS for details.

George

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Well, that 335i is a 335xi or xDrive, and THAT is the Drive Axle with a torn CV joint gaiter. YES that is an important part, as someone has DAMAGED the joint. Did someone remove the hub on that side for some reason? If so, you/she should NEVER let that person touch her car again. Read TIS for details.

George

Don't think any one has removed the hub or touched it. Do you think the cv joint needs to be replaced or can we just replace the boot? is there a way to tell?

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

Don't think any one has removed the hub or touched it. Do you think the cv joint needs to be replaced or can we just replace the boot? is there a way to tell?

the longer you drive like that the less likely is you can use the shaft.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

Also there’s a rip in the “rubber piece” on the inside of the wheel. Looks like an accordion. Going to look more into this piece and the name.

that's a cv boot, and the joint that's dry and failing is probably your clicking noise when turning.
clasic failing CV symptom.

brake shudder is 99% chance it needs tension strut bushings.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by nsjames

that's a cv boot, and the joint that's dry and failing is probably your clicking noise when turning.
clasic failing CV symptom.

brake shudder is 99% chance it needs tension strut bushings.

Damn. Can i just replace the boot or does the whole cv joint need to be replaced?
Are you associating the strut brushing with the shaking because of the cv joint ?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

Damn. Can i just replace the boot or does the whole cv joint need to be replaced?
Are you associating the strut brushing with the shaking because of the cv joint ?

I would advise having someone familiar with CV Joints on AWD Drive Axles inspect that and advise you about the integrity of the Drive Axle. I've NEVER changed one (on Front AWD), but I've NEVER seen a gaiter chewed up as shown in your photo as a result of simple rubber failure with age. You also state the car is a 2013 model. NO WAY a gaiter fails like that in 6 years WITHOUT something mechanically wrong with the joint inside.

SOMETHING chewed it up "BIGLY" and if the rattle or other issues are also on the RF, then it would be QUITE a "coincidence" that a Rat just decided to make a meal of the CV Joint Gaiter.

George