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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Solid Subframe Bushing DIY tips



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      06-11-2016, 04:41 PM   #1
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Solid Subframe Bushing DIY tips

Ill start off by saying that this was the biggest PITA of any project I've ever done on this car. I would rather do 3 sets of coilovers back to back than go through this again. If you could get someone to install these for less than 500 dollars, I would say go for it. I did this with the subframe still in the car

Getting the stock bushings out is pretty easy.
You can make your own tool from stuff at lowes or home depot for less than 30 bucks. Getting the two rear bushings in is not too bad either, you just have to be sure that the subframe's bushing cavity is 100% free of any burs, or rough spots that stick out.

Now the front bushings are the difficult part. For some reason they are just extremely tough to get in, even with the bushings fresh out of the freezer. I stripped the threads on two rods of my DIY tool, and I was pushing extremely hard on to get it to do that. I ended up making my own little portable press out of a 4 ton bottle jack, and some rods and steel plates i got from lowes. I got the bushing in another 1/4 of the way, and my tool bent beyond repair.

The next day I thought of using some spare wheel spacers I had laying around as the top and bottom of my press, so I put it together, and it worked perfectly. No bending of the tool whatsoever, ad the bottlejack fit inside the spacer perfectly. I did have to cut off the lip of the spacer in order to remove the tool from the subframe however.

I can confidently say this was the worst experience working on any car so far. I had my car on jackstands in the garage for 4 days, and spent every waking moment after work until I went to bed trying to get those bushings in.

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      06-12-2016, 06:21 AM   #2
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Im sure most shops that do these actually remove the subframe from the car.

I'm unsure if it can be done but from my machining engineering experience fitting solid bushes we use to submerge the bushes in a esky full of dry ice and heat the component up slightly and the plugs used to slide in easily with a small amount of force (this was fitting a splined bush to a railway axle for a train)
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      06-12-2016, 11:21 PM   #3
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I wish we would have taken pictures when we did the solid aluminum ones from Turner on my car. But it literally took 5 min per old bushing out and the same 5 min per new bushing in. We did freeze them in dry ice and had proper tools on hand. I think proper tools is the key word here. Same story on my friend's Turner delrin ones. All props to him for skills and tools.
Subframe was on the car but obviously lowered.
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      06-13-2016, 11:12 AM   #4
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@ Yozh! Please share the info on the tools used. Thank you!
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      06-13-2016, 02:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
I wish we would have taken pictures when we did the solid aluminum ones from Turner on my car. But it literally took 5 min per old bushing out and the same 5 min per new bushing in. We did freeze them in dry ice and had proper tools on hand. I think proper tools is the key word here. Same story on my friend's Turner delrin ones. All props to him for skills and tools.
Subframe was on the car but obviously lowered.
Yeah, I really regret not trying harder to get ahold of dry ice. and I was trying to save money just building my own tool from stuff at lowes. I guess that's what happens when you try to cheap out on tools, I should have expected as much.
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      06-13-2016, 02:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
@ Yozh! Please share the info on the tools used. Thank you!
http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=242

Like Yozh said. My delrin and his aluminum bushings took 5min to press in with it.
As for freezing them with dry ice. I can't say it helps a great deal more then maybe just putting them in the house freezer but definitely didn't hurt.

Other then the press we only needed 3 jack stands, 1 floor jack and normal hand tools.
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      06-13-2016, 02:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shirtpants_ View Post
Yeah, I really regret not trying harder to get ahold of dry ice. and I was trying to save money just building my own tool from stuff at lowes. I guess that's what happens when you try to cheap out on tools, I should have expected as much.
Just wondering if maybe you had a m3 set instead of non-m set. I remember reading some where that there is a slight size difference. Could explain why you had a much harder time then me and Yozh did putting them in.

Did you have trouble with just the fronts or the back ones also?
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      06-13-2016, 04:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k335d View Post
Just wondering if maybe you had a m3 set instead of non-m set. I remember reading some where that there is a slight size difference. Could explain why you had a much harder time then me and Yozh did putting them in.

Did you have trouble with just the fronts or the back ones also?
I ordered the ones specifically for the e90 non-m. The box says e90 non-m, but whose to say what they sent me. I had lots of trouble with 3/4 of the bushings. My 4 ton bottlejack/homemade press barely got the front ones in. They would move only a quarter inch or so at a time, then make a sound like creaking metal, almost like they were getting stuck on something, or were stretching the subframe cavity. They were being pressed in 100% straight, and the subframe was free of burrs or rough spots. I used grease and put the bushings in straight from the freezer...
Couldn't really tell you why I had such a tough time getting them in, as getting the stock bushings out was 5 minutes tops for each one...
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      06-13-2016, 08:14 PM   #9
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Just pulled my whole subframe and pressed them in with a bushing press.

Pulled the differential while at it, replaced sway bar items, and cleaned up the entire subframe with a blast then coating while at it.

Sure it took more time but good god was it more thorough and less stressful.

EDIT: I did TMS Solid Aluminum/Delrin as well. If I'd done M3 or some insert I'd have left the subframe on and froze the new bushings. From what I had read doing the TMS bushings would be problematic at best, so just pulled the whole read end. Did my Quaife at the same time. Just wish I'd been in a position to do everything while in there, but couldn't swing all the control arms and springs/struts on top of the Quaife and diff bushings at the time.
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      06-14-2016, 12:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k335d View Post
http://www.kochtools.com/index.php?p=product&id=242

Like Yozh said. My delrin and his aluminum bushings took 5min to press in with it.
As for freezing them with dry ice. I can't say it helps a great deal more then maybe just putting them in the house freezer but definitely didn't hurt.

Other then the press we only needed 3 jack stands, 1 floor jack and normal hand tools.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nanceman View Post
From what I had read doing the TMS bushings would be problematic at best, so just pulled the whole read end.
We should have taken a video, darn....
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      08-04-2019, 01:59 AM   #11
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Was the performance gain worth it though? Not sure if I should get powerflex black or these...
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      08-04-2019, 12:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airick.22 View Post
Was the performance gain worth it though? Not sure if I should get powerflex black or these...
I have aluminum subframe bushings and diff bushings. Totally worth it. Would do it all over again.
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      08-05-2019, 01:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
I have aluminum subframe bushings and diff bushings. Totally worth it. Would do it all over again.
Aww man, u convinced me to do this dreadful DIY. Was yours done on your own diy style or did you get someone to do it? And big shoutout to the OP I’ll be using some 12mm spare spacers and the thread rod method. Wish me luck.
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      08-07-2019, 12:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airick.22 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
I have aluminum subframe bushings and diff bushings. Totally worth it. Would do it all over again.
Aww man, u convinced me to do this dreadful DIY. Was yours done on your own diy style or did you get someone to do it? And big shoutout to the OP I’ll be using some 12mm spare spacers and the thread rod method. Wish me luck.
Had a shop do it. I am a basic DIYer. I leave the suspension stuff to the pros lol
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      08-09-2019, 03:10 AM   #15
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Is there a massive increase in road noise and virbration?
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      08-20-2019, 03:42 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
I have aluminum subframe bushings and diff bushings. Totally worth it. Would do it all over again.
I´ve just added a diff lock-down this weekend and it has made a real impact on how the rear is planted now... very happy after all those try/error to fix the fishing while on-off WOT...
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      08-21-2019, 10:51 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy198712 View Post
Is there a massive increase in road noise and virbration?
Only noise added is if you do aluminum diff bushings. Very minimal. No other NVH.
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      08-21-2019, 10:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetpro View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
I have aluminum subframe bushings and diff bushings. Totally worth it. Would do it all over again.
I´ve just added a diff lock-down this weekend and it has made a real impact on how the rear is planted now... very happy after all those try/error to fix the fishing while on-off WOT...
Yes the diff lockdown is a must.
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      12-28-2019, 04:17 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
We should have taken a video, darn....
Yozh, what is the part# of the Koch tool? Do you still have it?
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