[Brian216570]

Hello all.

New guy here with that typical “I’m new and don’t know jack about this platform” post.

Upgraded to a 2011 328i E90. Black ext. black vinyl manual seats. Slick top. 6MT. Zero options lol. 54k miles. Cost me $12k at a local dealer.

Had an 03 e46 325 coupe that I unfortunately money shifted. Bent some valves.

Just bought the E90 a couple months back. Only thing I’ve done to it was install an auto dimming rear view mirror.

I went ahead and read through the first ten pages on the general forum before doing this just to get a little knowledge before hand.

Now that’s out of the way. I don’t have any plans to do anything performance related to the car, not that there is a lot I can do to it anyway.

I guess what I’m most interested in is figuring out ahead of time any maintenance I should be expecting or planning for? I tend to do my own repairs when possible.

Did a water pump, valve cover, radiator, and clutch on the E46 so I’m not completely ignorant under the hood.

Outside of maintenance, is there any modifications I should be considering doing for general enhancement?

Thanks for reading all of that and any replies

[Sparkee]

You can probably be pretty sure that the diff and gear oil haven't been changed. They should be changed about every 50K miles. BMW says they are "lifetime" oils, which is of course nonsense. The diff doesn't have a drain plug so you need a way of pumping the oil out of it. I use a mighty vac with a catch bottle, but there are other pumps around to do it.

I don't know if the electric coolant pumps were improved by the 2011 model, but they have a history of just dying and leaving you stranded on the road. You are probably safe for a while at 54K miles. When it does go, the warning light goes from amber to red pretty quickly. With an aluminum block, it is a really bad idea to keep driving it. There are various opinions on whether you should wait for the pump to fail or try to change it proactively before it happens. You can find a lot of posts on this topic on this forum. Changing them is "fun", it is a tight spot down there under the motor. Expect some scraped knuckles. The thermostat should be changed at the same time, it is in the same location.

Those are a couple of the unique E90 maintenance things I can think of. Another is the lack of a dipstick, which maybe you have discovered already.

I would read the sticky thread "How to buy a used E9X BMW 3 Series". It has a lot of good info about maintenance for you.

[ctuna]

With the lifetime fluid policy there is no way of knowing what has been changed.
Unless you have records.
The no physical dipstick thing takes some getting used to and has some inherent
risks for the first time user.
It's kind of wonky and most of us hate it.
The graph only measures the top quart of the 6.5 quarts that is in the car.
The graph doesn't update till the car is warm and running for about 20 minutes.
So you can't add a quart and immediately check the oil level .
I don't have a good feeling about how much oil is in the car till I have driven
and checked the graph three times.
Run Flat tires suck.
Plenty of DIY's available on these cars here and on ytube.
Get the Standard Tools and Ista D or ista plus diagnositcs

Basically the factory diagnostics and coding setup.
For the cost of a K/D can cable.

There are many highly useful sub forums here.
bmw boards and links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=99
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=2
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=122
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=368
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16
https://bimmerretrofit.com/store/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=378

Free info and software link
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573

the how to buy a bmw sticky at the top of the forum page points out the weak and trouble spots.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1517476

[bkwld]

Slick top in U.S. ?!! This is rare or I’ve never came a across one. Excellent find!

I too have almost no option car. Good is less things to break. But it cost me $3K-4K (Sport seats, M3 wheels, steering wheel, Konis etc) to bring to my liking. E90 328 feels like the early 911 where I can just drive hard to get some thrill.

[ppointer]

Some things I did to my e91 that I recommend:

Installed the euro console lid. I believe it is the same lid they put into the e9x M3. I have an e90 without it, and the difference is noticeable.

I put a Strong strut brace on the e91 because it made such a difference on my Z3M. Another upgrade I am really happy with.

Finally, all of my cars have steel brake lines. Just makes the brake peddle firmer and more consistent.

[Brian216570]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions

Seriously. Excellent stuff.

A few more things have popped into my mind since starting this thread.

I ended up putting an m3 wheel into my E46. Pretty easy job. From what I gather it’s the same style procedure for the E90, difference being I have to buy a new style airbag to fit the wheel.

Secondly. I have to say there is a huge difference in handling between this car and the E46. E46 felt damn good at speed on the highway. Truly nothing special for tires. 205/55/16’s. Goodyear something.

Maybe it’s my first experience with run flats or maybe it’s just not the same car. . Because the E90 does not have the same level of confidence to me at 100+. Car feels dodgy and bouncy. Went ahead and had an alignment done on it for my own personal sanity, still same effect. I’m not building a track car. But I’d also prefer for it to not kill me if I hit a bump at 100mph.

Are we doing sway bar upgrades? Is this something that can be solved with bushings? I’ve noticed some people mentioning m3 control arms as upgrades, what seems to be the benefit there?

Lastly, I’ve searched for this question and did not find the answer, so pardon me if this is a common E90 problem. I couldn’t find it lol.

Walk up to the car, unlock, open the door- there is a buzzing or very fast clicking that is coming from behind the cluster. I’ve popped the hood, buried my head deep into the engine bay. It’s not there. It’s inside the dash without a doubt.

It happens pretty much every time I open the door to get in the car. It eventually quits.

Anyone have any idea what that sound is? Similar experience?




Thanks again for all the help!

Brian

[ctuna]

Start looking up Run Flat's here and then loose them.
This was a problem that didn't need to be solved.

E46 could eat mountain roads e9x more of a cruiser.
In kansas that may not be important.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Brian216570

... New guy here... 2011 328i E90...6MT... I guess what I’m most interested in is figuring out ahead of time any maintenance I should be expecting or planning for? I tend to do my own repairs when possible...

Welcome to the Forum!
Since the vehicle is a 2011 model and "New-to-you", I would begin by checking on the status of recalls, particularly the VANOS Bolt Recall, the Blower Harness Recall, and the Breather Heater Recall. Then if you want to understand the basics of the systems, Bentley Manual provides good general information and routine maintenance procedures.

For Factory-Level, or Dealer-Level Diagnostics, you can Download INPA (BMW Standard Tools), and ISTA (which also contains Wiring Diagrams, Repair Operations and more).

The attached pdf, "E9x References, 210523 Revision", contains LINKS to Web Sites where you can obtain all those things, AND register with BMW as current owner of the vehicle. Also attached is the RCRIT for the VANOS Bolt Recall, 14V176. That is the most critical recall for your 2011 model, so make SURE it has been performed.
George

[Efthreeoh]

I'll chime in. So just to qualify... I have a E46 330i cabrio that I've owned for almost 3 years now. I bought it from a friend at 100,000 miles. It now has 130,000 miles, so I've put some decent miles on it. It's not required much maintenance to this point. I'd say I'm quite familiar with the E46 platform as I also own a E86 Z4 3.0si coupe. I've had that car for almost 7 years and 90,000 miles.

In 2006 I bought new my E90 325i, which is basically the same as a 2001 328i. The E90 pass 407,000 miles last week, so I can say I definitely know the E90. All that said, I've driven BMWs exclusively for over 30 years and DIY most everything. Total driven miles in BMW's is over 950,000.

The E90 manual trans and diff easily handle 100,000 mile oil services. The N52 easily handles BMW's conditioned based OCI if you want to follow it. At 57,000 miles, outside of knowing exactly its service history and use history, has a shitload of life left in it. The E90 easily breaks the 250,000 mile mark with just routine service.

Use a good quality BMW LL01 spec oil in it with a BMW OE or MANN OEM oil filter. Clean and swap the VANOS solenoids every 50,000 - 75,000 miles Drive line fluids at 100,000 miles is perfectly fine (coolant, diff, trans). Brake fluid every 24 months.

There are two cooling system issues, the thermostat hose at the head, by the OFH, will eventually lose the plastic coolant flange, which deteriorates over time. The Fix is an aluminum replacement flange. There is a small-diameter coolant return line (mostly to bleed air) that is plastic in the center section, which some people replace with an aluminum pipe, or the updated BMW part is more plastic but holds up much better. The N52 does tend to need a water pump at some point, but the 2011 has the updated part which lasts far longer (mine is at 250,000 now).

And of course the N52 has the infamous OFHG leak, the valve cover gasket leak, and oil pan gasket leak. All of those you just tend to as with any BMW, just wait until the leaks get bad/annoying. Jus make sure the serpentine belt stays clean from oil, and it need to be replaced at 100,000 mile intervals unless microcracks develop in the ribs.

The suspension on the non-sport model can be upgraded to the M-sport BMW suspension; BMW still sells all the components, or there are several Koni and Bilstein kits to swap in. Suspension bushings and drivetrain bushings, depending on where the car is driven, lasts a lot longer than the internet indicates. To be honest, I like the E90 suspension over the E46. Setup correctly, the E90 suspension design is just better IMO. It's far less susceptible to tramlining and more stable on backroads.

Get a BMW scan tool/software suite and scan the car every oil change. Get back to us when you hit 250,000 miles

My 2 cents.

[Efthreeoh]

Oh, and listen to George whatever he tells you. He knows his shit about electrics.

Not joking.

[tlow98]

Everything above is great stuff. The front thrust arm bushing will be the first suspension issue you’ll likely see and it will be obvious by leaking bushing fluid and noticeable clunks.

Otherwise these cars are ranks - just be sure to exercise the upper rpms and the N52 is a happy machine.

Congrats on the car - sounds like a good one!

[tcphoto]

I went from an ‘01 325Cic to an ‘09 335 MT coupe and it’s been great, my monthly maintenance cost went from $110 down to $85 and I ditched the run flats within a year or so. As mentioned, the water pump and thermostat is the main culprit and the Mickey Mouse flange while you’re in there. If you want to mod, the Sport seats, ZHP shift knob, Aero lip, and PS4S’ would be on the top of my list.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Everything above is great stuff. The front thrust arm bushing will be the first suspension issue you’ll likely see and it will be obvious by leaking bushing fluid and noticeable clunks.

Otherwise these cars are ranks - just be sure to exercise the upper rpms and the N52 is a happy machine.

Congrats on the car - sounds like a good one!

And by "Ranks" he means... "Tanks"

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by Brian216570

Upgraded to a 2011 328i E90. Black ext. black vinyl manual seats. Slick top. 6MT. Zero options lol. 54k miles. Cost me $12k at a local dealer.

I'm jealous holy shit. Very similar to my car, sans-slicktop. Slicktop alone is very rare in the states on non-M E90s, do you have pics? 6MT makes it even better.

Originally Posted by Brian216570

Outside of maintenance, is there any modifications I should be considering doing for general enhancement?

In terms of maintenance just follow the BMW recommended schedule. N52 is a great engine that can last a long time if properly maintained and taken care of. (I do things about 20% more frequent than recommended like oil changes etc, but that's just me)

In terms of modifications;
-Lowering the car to M-Sport specification with aftermarket springs like Eibachs
-Wheels, most aftermarket wheels are actual dog shit. Unless you want to pay $2,000+(which you shouldn't for this car), get a nice used set of M-Sport wheels. Getting good tires like Michelin PS4S or the Conti Extreme Contact Sports will do wonders for the performance of the car.
-Aesthetic things like painting the kidney grilles/getting rid of gaudy chrome.
-The pre-LCI mirrors look a lot better on LCI cars instead of the big LCI mirrors, maybe do a swap. I still need to finish mine.
-If you want to really spend big down the line, M-Sport front and rear bumpers look fantastic for E90s.
(is your car a N51 or N52 car?)
-Get the N52 European Air Intake.
-Depends how much you want to spend, but a nice exhaust will do wonders for your car. Very great sound.
-Get something like the Active Autowerks tune for the engine, will liven it up like night compared to day.

Can't really think of anything else of the top of my head. Congrats on the car, really great taste in options and sounds like you got a great deal. Here's my car, pretty similar to yours!(obligatory tow truck pic, don't worry - it was just from the 11 year old plastic bleeder screw breaking in 110F degree heat)

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

And by "Ranks" he means... "Tanks"

Lololol. Truth.

Hilarious autocorrect tho!

[Brian216570]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

I'm jealous holy shit. Very similar to my car, sans-slicktop. Slicktop alone is very rare in the states on non-M E90s, do you have pics? 6MT makes it even better.

Here’s the first pic I took at the dealer.

It needs window tint. Still.

And I have already rectified the front tow hook cover.

[Jesda]

Base N52 E90 will be a decent car. Stay on top of oil leaks and replace the serpentine belt long before it rots. It's a fairly large (to me) highway car that's surprisingly good on gas with the manual.

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by Brian216570

Here’s the first pic I took at the dealer.

It needs window tint. Still.

And I have already rectified the front tow hook cover.

Congrats on the new E90!

That looks like a zero-options car, which as other posters have stated, it extremely rare indeed.

Looking at the ordering guide, you could get a slicktop in the US, but as it was included in the premium package, few came without it.

Out of curiosity, do you have any options on it? Heated seats, that kind of thing?

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by Brian216570

Here’s the first pic I took at the dealer.

It needs window tint. Still.

And I have already rectified the front tow hook cover.

Beauty! Keep that car, even though most people will balk at calling it special because it's just a 328i, that car is special. Very rare in the states at the very least. Enjoy it in good health, and if you ever want to sell it let me know! (or at least keep it in the forum family, lol!)

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The suspension on the non-sport model can be upgraded to the M-sport BMW suspension; BMW still sells all the components, or there are several Koni and Bilstein kits to swap in. Suspension bushings and drivetrain bushings, depending on where the car is driven, lasts a lot longer than the internet indicates. To be honest, I like the E90 suspension over the E46. Setup correctly, the E90 suspension design is just better IMO. It's far less susceptible to tramlining and more stable on backroads.

Not trying to hijack this conversation but an earlier comment suggested the E46 had a better suspension and was better in the twisties and the E90 is more of a "highway cruiser." It's been a long time since I've been in an E46 but I really like the E90 suspension. Even my standard suspension 325i with 16" wheels and auto transmission is quite fun in the canyons (though my 330i sport 6MT is better!) However I do know the "loose/squishy" rear end feeling that's been discussed. What exactly is the cause? Too-soft rear subframe bushings? I read numerous posts from people claiming that the stock suspension whether sport or non-sport is designed around the use of runflats? If that's the case then what's the recommended upgrade to improve everything when using non-runflat tires?

[CTinline-six]

My car had the same kind of issue you describe at higher speeds when I first got it. Mine had 32k at the time so I was convinced the suspension couldn't be worn out yet. It ended up being the run flat tires. Replaced with some Continental Extreme Contact Sports and it was like a new car.

[Brian216570]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Congrats on the new E90!

That looks like a zero-options car, which as other posters have stated, it extremely rare indeed.

Looking at the ordering guide, you could get a slicktop in the US, but as it was included in the premium package, few came without it.

Out of curiosity, do you have any options on it? Heated seats, that kind of thing?

Zero options lol.

No heated seats. No folding rear seats. No comfort access. Wood interior trim.

If this thing came with an option. I don’t know what it could be lol