|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Today's Posts | Search |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
New Alternator and New Battery still getting charging malfunction
|
|
07-11-2021, 10:23 PM | #1 |
New Member
2
Rep 20
Posts
Drives: BMW 335i
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Missouri
|
New Alternator and New Battery still getting charging malfunction
Hello!
I am new to this forum and somewhat new to the BMW world. I had an e46 and now I have a 2011 E90 N55 Sedan. I recently changed out the Valve cover because the seal went bad. I don’t know if it is related but ever since then I have been getting the “charging malfunction” on the I drive and red battery light on cluster. At first I thought it was maybe a non registered battery and the car was having issues not knowing how long the battery was around. I bought the car from someone who riced it out and just did work to for reason other then to say he had certain parts on and he put in a new battery about 2 years ago. I went ahead and bought a new battery anyway and registered it with the car. Still got the charging malfunction. So, I went ahead and changed out the alternator and I am still having issues. My belt looks good my connections look good. I checked the grounds and they look good. I need some assistance on what I can look at to fix this problem. Maybe I am not right in the head but it is a lot of fun to take this car apart and working on it, I just need some more direction. From what I can tell here are other things I can look into: IBS Cable Power Distribution Box Footwell Module DME Any help would be gratefully appreciated |
07-11-2021, 10:39 PM | #3 |
New Member
2
Rep 20
Posts
Drives: BMW 335i
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Missouri
|
I cleared codes and I did the drive for about 20-30 minutes some highway and in town driving. As soon as I pulled into the driveway the malfunction light came on. I checked voltage at the battery and it was 11.25v and I had just a little better at the alternator of 11.80v
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-11-2021, 10:54 PM | #5 |
New Member
2
Rep 20
Posts
Drives: BMW 335i
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Missouri
|
No, but I put a new alternator in. You think I just got a bad alternator?
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-11-2021, 11:01 PM | #7 |
New Member
2
Rep 20
Posts
Drives: BMW 335i
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Missouri
|
Unfortunately that is the big mistake that I made I didn’t get it tested. I made the assumption based off of my battery going dead and charging it again and it died on me another time. Let’s say for the sake of trying to understand that the old alternator was bad and the new is good. What else might cause these symptoms?
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 08:46 AM | #8 |
Major
399
Rep 1,078
Posts |
The signal/voltage for the alternator to charge comes from the computer. No signal, no charge.
Could be as simple as a bad wire. On older cars the voltage regulator was internal to the alternator, on modern cars the voltage regulation is done externally by the computer. Please don't change the computer before you get a wiring diagram, a multimeter, and trouble shoot the system |
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 08:53 AM | #9 |
Colonel
815
Rep 2,869
Posts |
Battery needs to be registered to the car.
IBS cable absolutely could be causing it as there was a recall many years ago on these - make sure your has had the recall done. In my opinion, it is probably as simple as one of those two items.
__________________
2019 X3 m40i:Carbon Black:Executive:Premium:Adaptive:Vernasca:699M:HK: Ambient:IND trim:M Mirrors:15mm spacers:Maxton lip:20% tint windows/pano:dsg paddles:TLG mudflaps
2008 328i E90 Jet Black:6MT:RWD:Premium:Sport:Xenon:MTEC V3 AEs:Front Splitters:CF spoiler:19" VMR FF v710 |
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 01:49 PM | #13 |
Lieutenant Colonel
654
Rep 1,893
Posts |
|
Appreciate
1
lookalikehuuh699.50 |
07-12-2021, 01:51 PM | #14 |
Lieutenant Colonel
654
Rep 1,893
Posts |
No chance that an IBS problem or failure to register the battery will result in 11.8v at the alternator in a running motor
|
Appreciate
1
lookalikehuuh699.50 |
07-12-2021, 01:53 PM | #15 |
Lieutenant Colonel
654
Rep 1,893
Posts |
Follow @nsjames advice - first thing to do is read the codes
|
Appreciate
1
lookalikehuuh699.50 |
07-12-2021, 05:50 PM | #16 |
New Member
2
Rep 20
Posts
Drives: BMW 335i
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Missouri
|
I have registered the battery with the car I think… I did just learn about needing to code the battery to the car. I am now doing research on what and where to buy the tools to doing coding. I have a Mac so I am hoping to find something that can use a Mac. I am not showing any codes for the charging issue. I am only getting codes for my turbo issue I am dealing with.
Here are the codes my car is showing P0444 Evap purge control valve P0229 Turbo charger under boost P12aB P10d0 P10b0 P15FE - which went away after I register the battery and hasn’t come back but it did show up. I have an autophix 7910 code reader that has BMW feature on it. This is what I used to register the battery with the car. I don’t know if this helps anything. I will totally find a schematic and start looking as well as look into coding the battery/. |
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 06:05 PM | #17 | |
Captain
278
Rep 657
Posts |
Quote:
If it happened right after you did that job then i would say it's not connected or loose. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 06:35 PM | #18 |
New Member
2
Rep 20
Posts
Drives: BMW 335i
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Missouri
|
I didn’t disconnect any battery cables. I took them out of the engine cover I guess. But I never unbolted anything. Is it possible I pulled another wire out then? I checked voltage at the alternator with got the car on and off and I get pretty much the same voltage at the battery that I do at the alternator.
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 07:55 PM | #19 |
Major
399
Rep 1,078
Posts |
I found this for an E60, but the E90 is pretty much the same:
My E61 also charges pretty high - I see a max of 15.1V. During starting it drops below 10V (when it's below freezing outside) but always starts. I'm planning on replacing the battery, but it hasn't failed me yet, and I've got a portable battery jumpstarter in the car (which is probably why it hasn't failed me yet). My charge voltage isn't steady at 15.1 though - it starts off lower, when you can see the charging brains are "feeling out" the battery to see how it's doing. Then the alternator output slowly ramps up to hit the 15ish point. After driving for a while, stopping and idling while sitting at a traffic light the voltage will cycle down, check battery's capacity, and then boost back up. Here's a huge writeup from the WDS on bmw-planet ... alternators in our cars are way smarter than a fixed voltage regulator module inside the alternator. The car computer controls charging, and measures battery voltage using the IBS right at the battery. The brains will store a code if there's a fault that causes overvoltage (among other reasons). -tom BSD interface to the alternator The alternator with BSD interface can actively communicate with the engine control unit. The alternator is not linked to the charge indicator lamp, only to the engine control unit. The alternator can detect a variety of faults. Function The following functions have been implemented in the engine control unit for the alternator with BSD interface: -Activating/deactivating the alternator on the basis of appliable parameters -Specification of the maximum permitted degree of utilisation of the alternator -Control of the alternator's load response -Calculation of the alternator moment degree of utilisation -Diagnosis of the data line between the alternator and the engine control -Filing of alternator faults in the defect code memory Activating the load control lamp in instrument cluster via CAN In comparison to alternators used so far, the display strategy of the load control lamp does not change when the alternator with BSD interface. The basic function of the alternator is also ensured if the communication between the alternator and the engine control is interrupted. Possible faults The following possible faults can be distinguished from fault entries: High temperature control: The alternator is overloaded; to be safe, the alternator voltage is reduced until the alternator has cooled down again. The charge indicator lamp does not light up. -Mechanical fault: The alternator is mechanically blocked or the belt drive has failed. -Electrical fault: Exciter diode defect, excite interruption, overvoltage due to controller defect. -Communication failure: Line defect between the engine control and alternator. The following cannot be detected: Coil interruption or short-circuit Battery charge indicator lamp The signal for the charge indicator lamp to light up is transferred across CAN to the instrument cluster. The charge indicator lamp lights up if there is mechanical and electrical fault (see above). Detection The above-mentioned calculation of the alternator moment and the rate of utilisation of the alternator are heavily dependent on the type (performance) and manufacturer. This is why the alternator provides the engine control with this data. The engine control adapts its calculation and set values to the exact type. Aim The precise calculation of the alternator moment and control of the load response function enables good idling of the engine. Control of the alternator voltage based on nominal values from the engine control enables a good charge balance of the battery. This is the string: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/a...oltage.763508/ |
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 08:16 PM | #20 | |
Major
700
Rep 1,227
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 08:54 PM | #21 | |
New Member
2
Rep 20
Posts
Drives: BMW 335i
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Missouri
|
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-12-2021, 09:25 PM | #22 | |
Lieutenant Colonel
654
Rep 1,893
Posts |
Quote:
Think about it - would you want the alternator to shut itself off just because your oil level sensor went on the fritz or a bus wire got pinched? Of course not. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
|
|