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      07-25-2021, 10:44 AM   #1
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After oil change this is just coincidence?

I went to my local BMW dealer for a routine oil change for my 2013 328xi coupe, after oil change they told me about time for replacing rear break pads and rotors (sensors didn't notice me yet but i see that pads are low) two days later i'm seeing this in my garage floor.
Is this just coincidence? If it is, what is it, maybe break fluid line started leaking? Big/small job? Or while they were checking somethings that they have never been asked for they might forget to put or tight things together?
Also can i just change pads and not the rotors, if i don't replace the rotors are they have to be cut or don't even bother and change them too?
Thanks guys





Left side also seems like already leaked in the past or something but nothing on the garage floor


Last edited by Salacak; 07-29-2021 at 11:43 AM..
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      07-25-2021, 12:17 PM   #2
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Remove the tire to see where is the oil leaking from and take it from there. I highly recommend to replace both pads and rotors at the same time. You can take the rotors to have them resurfaced, but they have to meet minimum thickness. The shop can measure and let you know. Brake job is very simple, buy your friend a beer so he can give you a hand.
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      07-25-2021, 01:46 PM   #3
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Thanks, i don't have a jack to lift the car up. This new place (moved) didn't bring many things i had in the past (not that i can be great mechanically but i could have jack it up and see )
I guess this was just the coincidence right after engine oil change. So bizarre but i can see that happening.
I'll bring it back to the dealer and tell them what happened, first thing in the morning.

I love the car, drives and handles like a dream and i really love this engine. I bought it when 66k miles on it 6-7 months ago and now 70k. I did replace power steering pump (it was making whining noise and many people and mechanics said sound was normal) thank god after replacing it no whining nothing, just beautiful. Changed tensioner belt and some minor other bearings etc. Also changed transmission oil (many said don't touch it but i'm glad that i did it) Changed spark plugs also wasn't necessary but again i'm glad i did that.
My idea was keep this car for good never sell.










Last edited by Salacak; 07-29-2021 at 11:45 AM..
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      07-25-2021, 01:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
Thanks, i don't have a jack to lift the car up. This new place (moved) didn't bring many things i had in the past (not that i can be great mechanically but i could have jack it up and see )
I guess this was just the coincidence right after engine oil change. So bazaar but i can see that happening.
I'll bring it back to the dealer and tell them what happened, first thing in the morning.

I love the car, drives and handles like a dream and i really love this engine. I bought it when 66k miles on it 6-7 months ago and now 70k. I did replace power steering pump (it was making whining noise and many people and mechanics said sound was normal) thank god after replacing it no whining nothing, just beautiful. Changed tensioner belt and some minor other bearings etc. Also changed transmission oil (many said don't touch it but i'm glad that i did it) Changed spark plugs also wasn't necessary but again i'm glad i did that.
My idea was keep this car for good never sell.







power steering pump went out that early? Wtf
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      07-25-2021, 02:15 PM   #5
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Yeh it was, i think it's all about the driver and how they use the car. My mechanic said these old system power steering if you keep all the way left or right puts so much pressure on the system and really bad for the pump.
You can have a driver can go 200k miles without an issue or like this one has to be replaced at 67k
But steering feelings on these cars just amazing.
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      07-25-2021, 03:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
Yeh it was, i think it's all about the driver and how they use the car. My mechanic said these old system power steering if you keep all the way left or right puts so much pressure on the system and really bad for the pump.
You can have a driver can go 200k miles without an issue or like this one has to be replaced at 67k
But steering feelings on these cars just amazing.
Whining noise probably due old/low fluid. When I got my car, it made loud squealing noise. I replaced the fluid and problem gone for good. No need to replace the power steering unit. Actually, you can drive the right side on your car on a curb and take a peak under the right rear to see where the leak from. Dealer won't work for free, they will charge you just to look at it.
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      07-25-2021, 03:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Glene View Post
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Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
Yeh it was, i think it's all about the driver and how they use the car. My mechanic said these old system power steering if you keep all the way left or right puts so much pressure on the system and really bad for the pump.
You can have a driver can go 200k miles without an issue or like this one has to be replaced at 67k
But steering feelings on these cars just amazing.
Whining noise probably due old/low fluid. When I got my car, it made loud squealing noise. I replaced the fluid and problem gone for good. No need to replace the power steering unit. Actually, you can drive the right side on your car on a curb and take a peak under the right rear to see where the leak from. Dealer won't work for free, they will charge you just to look at it.
I did change the oil and reservoir (cheapest way to see) but mine was pump and had to be replaced.
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      07-25-2021, 03:34 PM   #8
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If you had that much brake fluid coming out all of a sudden you would feel a considerable difference when braking the car at speed.
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      07-25-2021, 03:54 PM   #9
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If you had that much brake fluid coming out all of a sudden you would feel a considerable difference when braking the car at speed.
I just noticed this leak (day after changing engine oil), I don't know where is coming from, most likely it's a break fluid.
What annoys me is that this is right after engine oil changed at dealer which they told me i need pads and rotors replaced.
What I'm wondering is whatever this is might happened when they lift the car or they were checking the rear breaks or how they checked it?

Last edited by Salacak; 07-25-2021 at 04:20 PM..
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      07-25-2021, 04:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
I just noticed this leak (day after changing engine oil), I don't know where is coming from, most likely it's a break fluid.
What annoys me is that this is right after engine oil changed at dealer which they told me i need pads and rotors replaced.
What I'm wondering is whatever this is might happened when they lift the car or they were checking the rear breaks or how they checked it?
I read that. I'm saying that it is unlikely they touched the brake line. You can simply do a visual inspection of the brake pads without touching the brake lines. What does it smell like?

If the dealership is a reputable one, you will probably get the brake pad warning very soon.

edit: I just noticed you were asking about only changing the brake pads. No, you can not only change brake pads and have them machine the rotors. You must always replace both the pads and the rotors. Get new pads and rotors on a website like FCPEuro, and have them charge you for the labor to install them.
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      07-25-2021, 04:45 PM   #11
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Very reputable dealership.
Oil smells like can be a break fluid. I clean the floor few hours ago and i don't see any other drop of oil there (maybe it's empty, nothing else to leak ) you see in the pictures it wasn't a massive amount of oil anyway but regardless should be no leak at all.
I hate these coincidences, don't you? You take your car to mechanics for something and right after that visit something else out of nowhere shows up.
I'll take it there tomorrow and see what is happening.

Last edited by Salacak; 07-25-2021 at 05:02 PM..
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      07-25-2021, 05:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritzer View Post
I read that. I'm saying that it is unlikely they touched the brake line. You can simply do a visual inspection of the brake pads without touching the brake lines. What does it smell like?

If the dealership is a reputable one, you will probably get the brake pad warning very soon.

edit: I just noticed you were asking about only changing the brake pads. No, you can not only change brake pads and have them machine the rotors. You must always replace both the pads and the rotors. Get new pads and rotors on a website like FCPEuro, and have them charge you for the labor to install them.
I have a very good mechanic other than BMW dealership i go and he usually don't want a use other than OEM parts. He wants to get parts himself and gets it from BMW dealership, this way parts and work is guaranteed. Mostly more than FCPEuro prices.
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      07-25-2021, 05:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
I have a very good mechanic other than BMW dealership i go and he usually don't want a use other than OEM parts. He wants to get parts himself and gets it from BMW dealership, this way parts and work is guaranteed. Mostly more than FCPEuro prices.
FCPEuro does use OEM parts, or better. Just FYI.
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      07-25-2021, 05:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritzer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
I have a very good mechanic other than BMW dealership i go and he usually don't want a use other than OEM parts. He wants to get parts himself and gets it from BMW dealership, this way parts and work is guaranteed. Mostly more than FCPEuro prices.
FCPEuro does use OEM parts, or better. Just FYI.
I know, I mentioned them to my guy he still wants to use local bmw dealership.
Anyway dealership quoted me $650 for the rear break pads and rotors.
First I don't know if that is okay or not, second I really want a use akebono ceramic pads I don't think dealer will put other than oem pads.
After solving this leak problem I will check for the price and options I should go for
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      07-25-2021, 05:29 PM   #15
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$650 for just the parts?!?!?!?
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      07-25-2021, 05:32 PM   #16
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I've used the Akebono/Zimmerman setup on my stock 328i breaks since I've owned the car and they work flawlessly, only been through one set after nearly 100,000 miles of ownership. Much better than whatever they use at the BMW dealership in my opinion - and infinitely less brake dust on the wheels with the pads. If they are charging you $650 for just the parts you are literally getting reamed up the bunghole.

Buy those and the labor should cost no less than $250 from a reputable BMW Indy mechanic.
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      07-25-2021, 05:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritzer View Post
[img]https://i.ibb.co/Fq3QxSq/image.png[/img]

I've used the Akebono/Zimmerman setup on my stock 328i breaks since I've owned the car and they work flawlessly, only been through one set after nearly 100,000 miles of ownership. Much better than whatever they use at the BMW dealership in my opinion - and infinitely less brake dust on the wheels with the pads. If they are charging you $650 for just the parts you are literally getting reamed up the bunghole.

Buy those and the labor should cost no less than $250 from a reputable BMW Indy mechanic.
No, price was parts and labor total $650.
My fronts are good and they are oem metal pads if i buy akebono for the back should be okay front and back with different pads?
I will check FCP for pads and rotors, what should i pay for the labor (if i can find capable mechanic around me)
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      07-25-2021, 09:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
No, price was parts and labor total $650.
My fronts are good and they are oem metal pads if i buy akebono for the back should be okay front and back with different pads?
I will check FCP for pads and rotors, what should i pay for the labor (if i can find capable mechanic around me)
I guess that's not horrible. Although I would still recommend you going for the Akebono ceramic pads at the minimum. Large improvement over the ones BMW sticks you with.
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      07-25-2021, 10:01 PM   #19
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Get a flashlight and look under the car, you should be able to easily see where the fluid is coming from. Last time I saw fluid like that it was from the shock leaking on that side. The shock itself was wet with fluid also.
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      07-25-2021, 10:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritzer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
No, price was parts and labor total $650.
My fronts are good and they are oem metal pads if i buy akebono for the back should be okay front and back with different pads?
I will check FCP for pads and rotors, what should i pay for the labor (if i can find capable mechanic around me)
I guess that's not horrible. Although I would still recommend you going for the Akebono ceramic pads at the minimum. Large improvement over the ones BMW sticks you with.
Definitely i want a put akebono pads and rotors i guess just oem or i can ask fcp's opinion
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      07-25-2021, 10:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTinline-six View Post
Get a flashlight and look under the car, you should be able to easily see where the fluid is coming from. Last time I saw fluid like that it was from the shock leaking on that side. The shock itself was wet with fluid also.
I'm heading over dealership in the morning, i hope it's not shock
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      07-25-2021, 10:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salacak View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTinline-six View Post
Get a flashlight and look under the car, you should be able to easily see where the fluid is coming from. Last time I saw fluid like that it was from the shock leaking on that side. The shock itself was wet with fluid also.
I'm heading over dealership in the morning, i hope it's not shock
Rear shock is easy to replace.
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