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      09-17-2020, 04:27 PM   #23
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What's your budget and how much power do you want to make?

Th PS2 is as large as you are going to get in the stock housing. There is no way to get any larger.
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      09-17-2020, 04:34 PM   #24
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I run a prototype turbo from Shuenk.com and it has been great.

It is a totally new turbo with a tubular cast manifold, higher clamping actuator, upgraded DV. My tune was just finalized on E50, WMI, at 20psi but I have not had a chance to dyno. I did go side by side to 140MPH with a C6 Z06 though so my guess it that I will make well over 400WHP. But I am maxing out the turbo. The final version from Shuenk has a few changes and will have a 4MM larger compressor so it should be a bit better than the prototype.

This it next to a brand new latest version PS2.
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      09-17-2020, 11:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter3 View Post
@Turbod what do you mean by machined ? Also what even is the "core" like what exactly do they take out of our stock turbo to put in the other turbo ? Still kind of confused. I wouldn't want someone else's random core to be put into mine doesn't that defeat the purpose what if another core had more wear and tear by the previous owner of said core. My plan is to have a shop install it and get a dyno tune at the same time. So if that's the case your suggestion would be pay the 500 for the core already in it then send mine out to them when it gets taken out ?
Your options are to take your turbo out and send it to them and they will rebuild it or you will buy one and send yours in afterwards. You will be buying a used turbo that has been bored out and had all of the internals replaced. Since a shop is doing the install I assume they will not want to wait a week or two for the turbo to be built so you're pretty much left doing the core after you install.

A core is the unit you remove from your car that you bought a replacement for. In this case that is the entire turbomanifold minus the wastegate actuator and diverter valve.

This is what you will get back minus the diverter valve. It appears that they are either coating the hot side or at least paining them now. I don't really have a good photo of a stock turbo but the last photo was my stock turbo before I removed it from the car.

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      09-19-2020, 10:40 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbod View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter3 View Post
@Turbod what do you mean by machined ? Also what even is the "core" like what exactly do they take out of our stock turbo to put in the other turbo ? Still kind of confused. I wouldn't want someone else's random core to be put into mine doesn't that defeat the purpose what if another core had more wear and tear by the previous owner of said core. My plan is to have a shop install it and get a dyno tune at the same time. So if that's the case your suggestion would be pay the 500 for the core already in it then send mine out to them when it gets taken out ?
Your options are to take your turbo out and send it to them and they will rebuild it or you will buy one and send yours in afterwards. You will be buying a used turbo that has been bored out and had all of the internals replaced. Since a shop is doing the install I assume they will not want to wait a week or two for the turbo to be built so you're pretty much left doing the core after you install.

A core is the unit you remove from your car that you bought a replacement for. In this case that is the entire turbomanifold minus the wastegate actuator and diverter valve.

This is what you will get back minus the diverter valve. It appears that they are either coating the hot side or at least paining them now. I don't really have a good photo of a stock turbo but the last photo was my stock turbo before I removed it from the car.

Attachment 2416115

Attachment 2416116

Attachment 2416119
@Turbod thank god you're on this app lol I'd be so lost. So I guess I'm just gonna buy the core have them ship it out just like that and send all my stuff back once the shop does the install. The 500 you get back anyway so that's fine. Do you have a suggestion for some spark plugs and coils that would run nicely with the ps2 ? I know we briefly touched on it but it's hard to find info on that subject.
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      09-19-2020, 10:12 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter3 View Post
@Turbod thank god you're on this app lol I'd be so lost. So I guess I'm just gonna buy the core have them ship it out just like that and send all my stuff back once the shop does the install. The 500 you get back anyway so that's fine. Do you have a suggestion for some spark plugs and coils that would run nicely with the ps2 ? I know we briefly touched on it but it's hard to find info on that subject.
I, along with a lot of other people, run the NGK 97506. You should gap them to 0.022 and only shorten the gap if you're getting misfires, aftermarket coils should help fix this too. Stock coils are fine for most setups though. If you need to replace the stock ones for any reason then I would look at upgraded coils. Honestly, I have not researched what aftermarket coils I would go with so I don't have recommendations yet.

For the PS2 get the inlet, DV+, and install kit. Depending on what intercooler you have I would get an aftermarket turbo outlet just to make sure you have no leaks from that connection. There aren't any power gains for turbo outlet so people's opinions vary.
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      09-25-2020, 05:51 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
I run a prototype turbo from Shuenk.com and it has been great.

It is a totally new turbo with a tubular cast manifold, higher clamping actuator, upgraded DV. My tune was just finalized on E50, WMI, at 20psi but I have not had a chance to dyno. I did go side by side to 140MPH with a C6 Z06 though so my guess it that I will make well over 400WHP. But I am maxing out the turbo. The final version from Shuenk has a few changes and will have a 4MM larger compressor so it should be a bit better than the prototype.

This it next to a brand new latest version PS2.
You have any logs?
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      09-25-2020, 05:57 AM   #29
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I recently learned about the turbo smart dv upgrade. I have personally not used it but from what I understand it seals better than the GFB DV+. I like that it replaces the factory part as well. I am switching to it and should have some feedback in the next few months.

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...s-ts-0223-1092
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      09-25-2020, 07:07 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
I recently learned about the turbo smart dv upgrade. I have personally not used it but from what I understand it seals better than the GFB DV+. I like that it replaces the factory part as well. I am switching to it and should have some feedback in the next few months.

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...s-ts-0223-1092
I personally believe, based on the success of the product and the large use of it on this platform, that the GFB DV+ is the go-to solution. Some people have tried the Turbosmart solution and did not found them up to their standards, but then again, not many use the Turbosmart so its probably not representative.

Here is a post in specific where feedback has been received. You can explore that thread to read up more.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=37
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      09-25-2020, 08:26 AM   #31
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I have read reviews of both the GFB DV+ and the turbo smart not sealing properly. There were also reviews of both working great like you said. The only thing that gets a perfect seal is the OEM DV but you can expect that to fail under higher boost. You may be able to get a larger o ring for either to help seal it better. I had a GFB DV+ on my CTS turbo on my A4 and it worked flawlessly. I forget what the target PSI was on that. I think it was between 24 PSI and 26 PSI.
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      09-25-2020, 09:54 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
You have any logs?

I do but my version is a prototype and has since been improved so I won't share any until the revised version goes on. I can tell you I gained 50 grams per second of max maf flow compared to the stock PWG turbo at 90% WGDC at 20psi or so. So I like to think of it as a PWG to EWG conversion, lol. The revised version is a tad larger so it should do a bit better.

This is more like a better option than the PS1 since it is a all brand new turbo with cast tubular manifold, upgraded turbine and compressor wheel, brand new higher clamping wastegate actuator, and a new upgraded DV and DV electronics as well.

This a is picture I took of it next to the latest version PS2.
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      10-18-2020, 10:30 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
I personally believe, based on the success of the product and the large use of it on this platform, that the GFB DV+ is the go-to solution. Some people have tried the Turbosmart solution and did not found them up to their standards, but then again, not many use the Turbosmart so its probably not representative.

Here is a post in specific where feedback has been received. You can explore that thread to read up more.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...8;postcount=37
In that thread, to me it makes sense that there's more lag with the Turbosmart, as he said was the dual port one. So some of the charged air was being vented to atmosphere rather than 100% of the charged air recirculating back into the intake as with the GFB DV+. So if he had the bought the plumb back Turbosmart it should work basically like the OEM one, but suitable for more boost, rather than the different mechanism of the GFB DV+. Is my understanding correct?
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      10-20-2020, 03:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalvinNismo View Post
In that thread, to me it makes sense that there's more lag with the Turbosmart, as he said was the dual port one. So some of the charged air was being vented to atmosphere rather than 100% of the charged air recirculating back into the intake as with the GFB DV+. So if he had the bought the plumb back Turbosmart it should work basically like the OEM one, but suitable for more boost, rather than the different mechanism of the GFB DV+. Is my understanding correct?
I didn't even know there were more than one kind, but from what you are exllaining it would result in lower lag since it won't be purgin the pressurized air through the atmosphere by feeding it back to the compressor's inlet. I'll take a look at it later today.
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      10-20-2020, 07:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
I personally believe, based on the success of the product and the large use of it on this platform, that the GFB DV+ is the go-to solution. Some people have tried the Turbosmart solution and did not found them up to their standards, but then again, not many use the Turbosmart so its probably not representative.

Here is a post in specific where feedback has been received. You can explore that thread to read up more.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=37
Pure now recommends the Turbosmart solution over the GFB DV+. They said they have seen a reduction in WGDC using the Turbosmart over the GFB.
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      10-21-2020, 04:40 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalvinNismo View Post
In that thread, to me it makes sense that there's more lag with the Turbosmart, as he said was the dual port one. So some of the charged air was being vented to atmosphere rather than 100% of the charged air recirculating back into the intake as with the GFB DV+. So if he had the bought the plumb back Turbosmart it should work basically like the OEM one, but suitable for more boost, rather than the different mechanism of the GFB DV+. Is my understanding correct?
Right so I looked at the data sheets of the products and you would be right by saying that the turbosmart plumb back version (even if its still called BOV) acts as a diverter valve since it recirculate bypass air in the inlet of thr compressor. The dual channel acts as a regular BOV that vents to atmosphere. Now I don't know if their plumb back version is using a diaphragm and plunger mechanism like the OEM style, but I would be supprised, since the polymer used for the diaphragm can generally not withstand higher loads.

Quote:
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Pure now recommends the Turbosmart solution over the GFB DV+. They said they have seen a reduction in WGDC using the Turbosmart over the GFB.
You're right. Must be a pretty recent change since last time I was beating myself to know of I should get PS2, which was not long ago, only DV+ was an option. They have now added a TurboSmart BOV option for 270$. Weirdly enough this matches the price of the dual channel BOV instead of the plumb back one.
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      10-21-2020, 12:11 PM   #37
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My buddy had to source his own o rings on the Turbosmart to fix a leak and I have seen others have to do that as well. As for a reduction in WGDC, that sounds like BS.
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      10-21-2020, 12:29 PM   #38
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Pure now recommends the Turbosmart solution over the GFB DV+. They said they have seen a reduction in WGDC using the Turbosmart over the GFB.
Yeah I was told the same and the turbosmart is what is going in my car now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
My buddy had to source his own o rings on the Turbosmart to fix a leak and I have seen others have to do that as well. As for a reduction in WGDC, that sounds like BS.
Well that sucks. Hopefully that issue has been resolved.

I know it sounds like BS but it is worth noting, in my experience at least, everything Pure has recommended in the past has turned out to be accurate.

The latest example is their Heavy Duty WG, which allows for more boost at the same wgdc on the PS2. That was my experience. I have logs pre and post HD wg if anyone is interested.

I am going to give them the benefit of the doubt that the TS DV also helps reduce WGDC as well. Unfortunately, i wont be able to test that on the PS2, but hopefully someone else will. That would be great to see.

Edit:
Found my logs. Same tune. Only difference is stock vs Pure HD WG. I think I gained 2-3 psi at the similar WGDC.

Stock WG log: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/stock-wg...0&data=3-14-25

Pure HD WG log: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/aftermar...0&data=3-14-25

Last edited by houtan; 10-21-2020 at 12:41 PM..
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      10-23-2020, 01:48 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Yeah I was told the same and the turbosmart is what is going in my car now.



Well that sucks. Hopefully that issue has been resolved.

I know it sounds like BS but it is worth noting, in my experience at least, everything Pure has recommended in the past has turned out to be accurate.

The latest example is their Heavy Duty WG, which allows for more boost at the same wgdc on the PS2. That was my experience. I have logs pre and post HD wg if anyone is interested.

I am going to give them the benefit of the doubt that the TS DV also helps reduce WGDC as well. Unfortunately, i wont be able to test that on the PS2, but hopefully someone else will. That would be great to see.

Edit:
Found my logs. Same tune. Only difference is stock vs Pure HD WG. I think I gained 2-3 psi at the similar WGDC.

Stock WG log: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/stock-wg...0&data=3-14-25

Pure HD WG log: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/aftermar...0&data=3-14-25

Yeah the heavy duty wastegate is a must, my shuenk turbo comes with a higher clamping WG actuator and it definitely made a difference. I just don't see how the turbosmart could improve WGDC but would like to hear an explanation on it, I might ask Jesse at Pure.
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      10-23-2020, 10:55 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
The latest example is their Heavy Duty WG, which allows for more boost at the same wgdc on the PS2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Yeah the heavy duty wastegate is a must, my shuenk turbo comes with a higher clamping WG actuator and it definitely made a difference.
Can either of you elaborate more on what you mean about the heavy duty wastegate?
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      10-29-2020, 02:32 PM   #41
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Quote:
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Can either of you elaborate more on what you mean about the heavy duty wastegate?

Higher clamping force.
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      10-29-2020, 03:40 PM   #42
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Can either of you elaborate more on what you mean about the heavy duty wastegate?
Sorry just seeing this. But as 9k said, I just understand it as being stronger.
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      10-29-2020, 05:53 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Higher clamping force.
Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Sorry just seeing this. But as 9k said, I just understand it as being stronger.
Okay let me ask it this way. Are you swapping hardware for the wastegate to apply more pressure? I understand that you mean more pressure to keep the wastegate closed but how is it accomplished?
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      10-29-2020, 06:04 PM   #44
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Okay let me ask it this way. Are you swapping hardware for the wastegate to apply more pressure? I understand that you mean more pressure to keep the wastegate closed but how is it accomplished?
Ohhhhhh.

Yeah, it’s a completely new wastegate that replaces the stock one. I may have pictures somewhere but it looks almost identical to the stick wastegate. But, it must have stronger internals. You just unbolt the old wastegate from the turbo and the wastegate valve, bolt in the new one, set vacuum to 6 (forgot the units) just like the stock wastgate, and its good to go.

Does that help?
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