|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Today's Posts | Search |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
Well dammit, my transfer case is dead.
|
|
11-11-2018, 09:08 PM | #24 |
Brigadier General
2440
Rep 4,330
Posts |
fluid and reset made my junk smooth again @ 120K miles.
now at 137 and it's still working fine. I used the bmw fluid, but I have learned there's a ravenol fluid that's the same, for about half the cost. |
Appreciate
0
|
11-12-2018, 07:59 AM | #25 | |
Major
475
Rep 1,191
Posts
Drives: 2009 BMW 328i Wagon
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Asheville, NC
|
Quote:
Its a $50 potential fix vs a $4000 fix, I'd change the fluid if I were you. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-13-2018, 07:12 PM | #26 | |
New Member
2
Rep 8
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
11-13-2018, 07:13 PM | #27 | |
New Member
2
Rep 8
Posts |
Quote:
Thank you! Did you reset with inpa? I don't see a "calibrate" option in inpa. I will swap the oil to begin and see if I need a calibration. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-26-2019, 09:12 AM | #31 |
New Member
3
Rep 19
Posts |
Hi folks, I know this post was centered on a RWD swap and ends with just changing fluids.
Here's my situation: 2008 328xi | 182k miles Trifecta of lights (4x4,Brake,DTC) Codes are all the ones listed - 5F3A Internal Failure, 5463 Faulty Mechanism, A0B5 road speed signal, Here's what I have done: - took to Indy and he said motor failed all tests (?) offered an $1,100 job to install new actuator and fluid change or $1,400 for sourced(used) TC swap and fluid change (as mine did have some seepage/leak). This leads me to believe its just the actuator at issue, car seemed to drive fine and I assumed was just in RWD at that point - some but very little noise. - I decided to see if I could handle it, so I bought a full TC w/actuator from an under 90k mile car since mine was at 182k - i didn't want to rule that out - First to see if just the actuator I swapped that in (used my resistor as I know those are matches to the TC) - Does not seem to be the issue as car made very loud grinding sounds now and actuatlt went to limp mode which had not happened before - I also did try to "reset" the computer for VGT replacement with my Foxwell NT510 - Also getting a new code for Resistor Calibration - So not sure if the "reset" triggered the 2 new faults above My thoughts are that since I replaced the actuator and cleared the VGT codes, that the original actuator was working but dormant/off due to the codes. New actuator also did what it was supposed to now that the codes were cleared and trying to actuate the TC. Questions: 1. does this sound logical and its the TC thats shot? 2. is there a way for me to isolate it if its the TC? 3. if i unplug the actuator (VGT) and grinding continues - can I assume its the TC? 4. if i swap the whole TC w/actuator in - what resets do I need to do? 5. since I had/have a slow leak (not even drips reallY) over time would low fluid be causing all of these issues - could be too late to just replace/refill Thanks for any thoughts on this. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-27-2019, 05:55 PM | #32 |
Major
475
Rep 1,191
Posts
Drives: 2009 BMW 328i Wagon
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Asheville, NC
|
The trifecta can also be due to a bad speed sensor, it happens on RWD models all the time time too.
So that makes me wonder if there was something wrong with the actuator from the junkyard. Do you have any of the diagnostic equipment to communicate with the transfer case. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-28-2019, 01:10 PM | #33 |
New Member
3
Rep 19
Posts |
Yes I have Foxwell NT510
But there is significant grinding now coming from transfer case area as well. I understand if the wheel sensor is throwing the codes, but don't think that would cause the kind of noise that I have going on right? Just a lot of communication issues. To note: I did notice something in the transfer case when I had the actuator out. The gear and arm inside the transfer case that the actuator gear engages takes no resistance to move it. I'm thinking this isn't right and plan to compare it to the used TC that I bought. Haven't pulled the drain plug yet as I'm waiting on a 14mm hex drive but there may be signs of metal in the fluid too. |
Appreciate
0
|
06-05-2019, 12:49 PM | #35 |
New Member
3
Rep 19
Posts |
OK so I have a local contact that i will contact later this weekend, but figured I'd follow up here as well - See above post #31 and 33.
Was definitely the TC (183k miles) as I could move/spin the TC gear (the one that engages the Actuator motor) with my fingers which I understand should have some significant resistance and also there was only a sign of a small drip but TC had no fluid left in it. Swapped in TC with <90k miles, no leaks, changed fluid, and using actuator/resistor that came with it. I have a Foxwell NT510 that seems to have all the reset & calibration functions for the VGT in it, so am wondering if someone may have the steps used for this. |
Appreciate
0
|
07-26-2019, 05:31 PM | #37 |
New Member
4
Rep 28
Posts |
Does this sound like a transfer case issue?
2007 325xi automatic First I was driving on the highway and got the 4x4, AWD, DSC, ABS, EBV symbols and cruise control wasn't working either. The gears shift fine, on time and no shutters taking off. I had a break sensor triggered before, that brake light went away when those symbols came out. There was a slight noise when driving coming from the back tire, I think because those brakes might have needed changing. I was able to drive home that day. *The lights don't show up until and only when I start driving.* Next days; Drove it for a bit like that but then when I decided to take it to the mechanic the car stopped in the middle of the road in front of my house as if something got stuck and wouldn't let it move forward anymore accompanied by a very loud squealing noise from under the car which stopped when the car stopped moving. Had it towed and at the garage they told me it started driving again giving those symbols. That's when they ignored me for a week, told me it was a transfer case but gave me no pricing at all. They almost didn't want to do anything so I just drove it home and they were happy. I had to meet my brother's family at Disney for 10 days but when I got back...;the unexplainable symptoms now.. No more warning lights! Dash is clear! Even when I try driving it. All gears shift in and out of smoothly with no delay or noise. Engine is clean. The car goes in reverse but when I put it in D or M1, it starts to roll but then stops as if something stuck stopping it and starts to roll again a bit but stops again. There is a squealing noise that accompanies it when it stops. Again no lights are turning on anymore! The dash is clear no engine light.. No 4x4, brake light, nothing. Car goes reverse but not drive. Moves a bit then stops as if something is stuck inside it stopping it on one side of the spin. (If that makes sense) Remember this happened but then started driving again and now it looks like it's stuck for good. I'm waiting on a obd2 cable that should arrive on Monday. Hopefully I can pull out some codes from the history. Can anyone say what this could be? There are no oil leaks under the car from what I can see. Transfer case and transmission oil were changed 3 years ago. I just had an engine oil change. The car is 240k kms but very clean engine, oil change every 5k max since 190k kms. Also in my case, if I unplug the TC, would the car drive again? I would be grateful for any help or advice. If you had issues with a transfer case can you tell me about your symptoms and if they were similar or not? What sucks is that there are no lights on the dash anymore. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-01-2023, 08:56 PM | #38 | |
New Member
2
Rep 9
Posts |
Quote:
What was your fix??? |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
|
|